Yep, the secondary (driven) pulley should also be opening and closing but it doesn't appear to be. at idle it should be closed to the point where the belt is riding up high even partially above the pulley.
My experience has been that you usually just can't look at the belt and determine that it's "alright" ( without measuring it) The other thing you should be careful about is driving around in high range all the time or while towing, this will cause premature belt wear. I have a Arctic Cat ATV, Polaris Atv and a Mule all with CVT's and I believe that all of their owners manuals warn against using high range when towing if your going less than around twelve miles per hour. Using high range at the lower speeds will cause the belt to slip excessively and cause premature wear of the belt. I found out the hard way after I bought my 2002 Arctic Cat and after plowing snow in high range during the first two years I had it the belt started slipping and wore out with I'm guessing less than 300 miles on it. ( no problems with the belt after 4000 miles and I started driving it properly) Although it doesn't look like it in the video that after market taller tires were installed on this machine another way to cause slipping problems is to put on taller tires with out changing the weights on the primary clutch and the spring in the secondary clutch, this causes the ratios on the system to get out of wack , causing an assortment of issues with the CVT system. I realize this video is old , just trying to save you guys out there some headaches. As a side note I belong to two hunting clubs where therer are collectively about 50 members who have Atv's with CVT drives ( mostly Polaris Sportsmans and Mules) and I have yet to find one person in this group who doesn't know that you shouldn't drive around in high range at slow speeds.
....Also, the primary seems to have a "sticking spot" ....(in the video) the first time the engine is reved up and winds down you can hear the "pop" @2:23 as the converter gets past it's sticking point....and then again @2:31, looks too like the driven pulley is not function fully, the belt should be riding high in the groove sitting at idle.....
had the same problem... those secondary units have three plastic knobs that are notorious for going around a hundred hours. i did my own watchinc a tube video....30 dollars in parts and a couple of hours! 1200 bucks my butt!
How did you make out with this project? I need to replace my belt on my 3010 and wondered if the clutches needed to come off or if I can just change the belt like on a snowmobile.
As the front pulley closes due to centrifugal force, the belt has to take a longer route..so then the back pulley gets forced in by the belt becoming tighter..
I had a limb punch hole in dust cover over the belt. What is the trick to get the dust cover out to put new one on. Its so tight I cant figure how to get out of engine compartment
David Potts I had to take the exhaust off and the breather for the clutch to get enough room to maneuver it out. Was a huge pain in the ass but it came out. We twisted and turned it around for a very long time before it came out. I think I ended up taking the hose of the clutch breather on the side to give me the clearance I needed by pushing it into that opening and then going vertical with the secondary cover. The hose was leaning on that cover. Nobody answered you so hope this helps. Golf course life
Came across your video while trying to troubleshoot my Mule 3010. Mine is hard to get into gear and doesnt want to stop moving when i come to an idle have to push on the brakes hard to get movement to stop and then i am able to shift out of gear. I am thinking my problem lies with the drive pulley. Any ideas guys?
Did you find out why the primary clutch stays engaged? I'm having the same problem, it idles low where she suppose to, so I don't know why primary engages right when I start , mine is a 2012 4010 trans
