Multiplus-II 120V AC sub panel install 

I appreciate that!

I will more than likely do a follow up with bigger gauge wire to account for the "power assist" capability of the MPII.

Great feedback for others who come here. 6 AWG x 3 would be needed for 120V AC 50A panel main breaker when using power assist in the Victron system for AC1 out to the 120V AC panel. I don't know that I will use that feature. Also, I'm bald, so a hair dryer is out for me, haha! I intend to be mindful of my high wattage items like induction, microwave, electric kettle, and water heater and not using them at the same time. For now I'm planned at 30A main breaker and ultimately will have 6 15A breakers, all GFCI outlets. Upgrading to 50A w 20A breakers is always a possibility with proper larger wire.

Not in what you see here. I may add one in the future, and it's not a bad idea in case someone wants to try to mess with your electric system by accessing the exterior outlet.

That is correct, so far I decided I will not use power assist in the Victron system. If I did, I believe it would be 6 AWG x 3 from AC1 out to the 120V AC panel 50A main breaker. Then I would likely upgrade to 20A circuits, and therefore 12/3 vs the 14/3 I have for 15A circuits; and appropriately upgraded GFCI outlets as well. If in my daily use I find otherwise, my 8020 (extruded aluminum) build method will allow for easy upgrading.

Good observation, I don't have an answer right away, been a while since the test. If I remember, I'll try to run it again, same fan.

I believe I told it 30A via the Cerbo GX. I will never plug into anything larger than 30A. I will eventually reconfigure my internal power options for Victron Energy "Power Assist".

I don't believe so, but you can check with Blue Sea. If I upgrade so I can use the Power Assist feature, I have Blue Sea parts 8079 which is the standalone 50A breaker, and 8059 which has 8 breaker slots. I will never need all 8 slots, but wanted extra rather than no room to grow just in case. I believe you can get breaker panels with less slots.

10/3 refers to 10awg wire, 3 of them in the combined outer sheath. In the USA, this is hot, neutral, ground for 120V AC. 10/2 would contain 2 x 10awg wires, positive and negative, usually in a DC scenario.

@@VanTransitions tried to comment but it seems it was removed, maybe because I linked to Lowe’s. At any rate, 10/2 in America is most definitely 3 wires. Neutral, hot, and ground. This can be easily googled and is probably known by anyone before they even step foot in electrician school.

RU-vid removes links from commenters by default, not within my control, part of their spam prevention I believe. Here is some 12/2 I use for some of my 12V DC loads. It is definitely 2 wire of 12awg within the same sheath. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NUYBU2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_QM9XP37H7VK89FSADRDT and here is some 12/3 www.amazon.com/dp/B000NV2AVS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_493MDXT1YJ1VXRN6SSH7

You may be thinking of romex? Which contains solid wires and the additional bare copper for ground. Romex is NOT recommended in a van (which is a moving earthquake), only stranded.

@@VanTransitions after a little more googling, it seems marine grade wiring is different than residental. residental romex 12/2 includes a ground, but your ancor marine wire does not. interesting indeed.

Think of vans and RVs like land boats. They are a moving earthquake. You want protection from moisture and the flexibility of stranded wire. NO romex.