I do drainage for a living, and one thing I absolutely recommend is a good old fashioned ditch. It’s easy for a French drain to get clogged with fines or get overwhelmed. With a ditch, you won’t be dealing with blockages. Water doesn’t flow uphill!
I agree. The ditches with riprap may work for awhile but over time they will clog up with soil, leaves, vegetation and such. I like low side sloped swales that are properly graded for the long term solution to surface water drainage.
I’d say your right fellas a burm to divert the water would probably work a little better in my opinion… also we did all see this coming but at the end of the day we make mistakes and oversight to learn
@@BrokenRRT oh well he's rich he can afford to do it again, not like us who couldn't afford to screw it up. I made some mistakes when i had my house built and its cost me a ton of money and time to make it right.
With a building on a hillside that could potentially flood, I was also thinking a simple floor drain running along the wall closet to the hill would be a good idea. Obviously would be easier and cheaper to do before the concrete is poured
*****Derek, I was in the engineering business 40 years. That ditch you put on the road might work on a small rain but will eventually silt in. Filling it with rock has cut your water volume handling in half. It would have been better to not fill it with rock. A dirt berm at the top of your bank with a ditch in front of it would do a much better job of diverting the water away from your hillside. Another big rain will blow right over the top of that rock ditch. As an example, you need a 24" pipe to adequately drain a 20 acre field, so if you have 60 acres draining in you direction you are going to continue to have issues without proper ditches and diversions. (10'w x 3'd)... MY advice, Have a good licensed civil engineer come out to your place and pay him to advise you what needs to be done. It will be money well spent. They do this work every day and can save you money and grey hairs. I felt terrible for you and the damage that resulted. Hopefully what you have put in place can still be utilized. Love your channels and your family. Good luck brother.
Totally agree! I spent a few years doing landscaping, and that single drain tile does not look adequate at all for the amount of water he was describing
Amen. Keeping what you’ve already done, get that mud “road” seeded asap with fast-establishing grass. A ditch full of rock will silt up with next big rain, and even the Fall leaves will silt it up over a few years. God bless you and family.
As an old, retired engineer, I echo what Ralph says below. Several terraces in the 60 acre field will do more to eliminate the problem in the future than the rock and underdrain pipe you have installed. Terraces always work and require very little or no maintenance. You also mentioned establishing vegetation on the bare soil, which will help.
Live next to 20-30 acre farm that has had rain catch Terrances put by army corp of engineers. Must have been done in 50’s. Even they overflow. When I bought my property that borders the field the water broke thru the sid3 onto my property. Just put clay on my property border to keep his water on his property. He has had to repair the mounds a few times and is pissed I blocked his water. Would suggest anyone playing with runoff be careful as could turn into a lawsuit from down neighbors. Even recording this might not be good for his insurance company might take note. Storms go by weather events in years. Always advantageous to build on high ground.
Bummer. I remember thinking this would be a problem when watching the grading and slab pour videos. I deal with this problem every day as earthmoving and road construction is what I do for a living. This is probably too late (its never too late) but take this into consideration.... The drain system you are installing is only a temporary solution. Especially with no filter fabric. What happens is the fine particles from the dirt and roots from vegetation eventually work their way into the voids of the rock, eventually making it impermeable. The other problem i have with your new system is the use of the flexible black perforated pipe. With no filter cloth used, there is a very high chance dirt will eventually clog the pipe. I always use a hard pipe this way a drain snake and or drain jetter machine wont damage and collapse the pipe. The solution i recommend is a concrete ditch at the top of the slope, and a smaller one at the Toe of slope. Place a 2' band of rip rap at the leading edge of the ditch and that will help keep dirt out of the ditch. With the concrete ditch, you can shovel out the sediment therefore making it a lifetime solution. For stuff like this I always spend the extra money. The peace of mind when your away, that there is absolutely no way water can make it into the shop is worth it. -Phill
@@patrickwhelan5703 I am constantly amazed that drainage people don't know to do this. You put the perf on top of structural landscape fabric on the VERY BOTTOM of your ditch; cover it with drain rock (or crushed) and wrap the WHOLE THING in fabric! Please people! It's permanent and functional. Maybe not permanent, but years and years. Clay like Derek has here will plug a system in less than five years.
I also have written it! Not just that the guys bring in the concrect without condence it! But he had have his little sea down by the cars this would bring the alarmclocks to ring! But i am an architect he is not-so i am from germany there we see this things in a lot of ways different than americans did! Also they put the trainige system into this clay boddom after some months this trainage is closed with mud! The same he did on the top of the hill he need down at the building too! and than he need deep to train deep holes maybe 8-10 feet deep with 8feet in diameter ,,,, but without a filterflies so we call it all the clay will clog the drainage!
That perforated piping should be wrapped in fabric before it's buried to prevent clogging and rooting. Also make sure the highest point is lower than your lowest grade on the garage. Also, you should have Y pipe cleanouts for your downspouts so you can wash them out if they clog.
You can get perforated pipe with a sock on it that is almost like a real heavy pair of winter nylons the ladies might wear here in Canadia. Smiles 😃 from Canada 🇨🇦
Yeah, was thinking same thing, should have the sock...there's a lot of fine silt.soil there that will fill that big O pretty quick in heavy rainfall. Learned that the hard way myself...
Construction of the building was incorrect to begin with. He's right next to a mountain. His concrete foundation should have included 12-inch concrete Rat-Walls. What he's doing now is temporary fix. He has no choice but to install retaining wall now. We learn from our mistakes.
@@Alien_Observer_LV-426 I agree. I thought that when I was watching the previous videos of the construction processes that he shouldn't have skimped on putting up a retaining wall - water only knows one thing... it wants to flow to the lowest point, and he's on the side of a hill... I had a similar problem with my parent's house in Arkansas, where their garage would flood every time it rained, and it wasn't because of bad construction - it was bad engineering, and the plot where the house was built wasn't properly graded or setup for drainage. We ended up having to dig a French drain around the side of the garage which it was experiencing the flood water entering, and then we extended the drain down to the lowest point of their yard. It was expensive, but necessary to repair it, or all the flooding was going to destroy their garage in short order. Sorry for you guys having to experience this! Don't let it disappoint you or discourage you - we love what you guys are doing and support your efforts!
Man out of every channel I watch on here this has got to be one of my favorites. This guy and his family are just so nice and you can tell they really do appreciate all their fans and subscribers. They have worked so hard and imo totally deserve all they have, congratulations on it all.
That cut bank behind your building still needs fabric below the rip-rap or all that clay is still going to wash out into your perforated drain and clog it up eventually. And ideally you want to stack that rip-rap from the bottom up on a slop that steep so the rock doesn't settle down over time. Also it is going to be a nightmare to maintain without fabric under it once weeds start growing in between the rip-rap. It's better to do that now or this will most likely happen again. I also agree with people saying you need to run your gutters on a separate drain. That's way too much water for only one 4" drain to handle! It's also a very bad idea to park a heavy RV over that shallow drain. It doesn't work at all when it's smashed. You need a heavy duty pipe for that if you plan on driving on it, or at least PVC schedule 40. But an RV still might even smash that. It will 100% smash that pipe you are using now.
I have a concern with your drainage. You shouldn't dump your gutters into the same pipes as yard drains. I would of ran a separate solid line for the gutters and keep the corrugated drain tile for the french drains. You have a lot of roof and terrain square footage for watershed. Not bashin on the setup and I know its too late by the time this video go up, just something to keep in mind.
That is absolutely correct. If the gutters are running at capacity, they will more than clog up the ground drainage, if anything they will due to gravity increase pressure and push more water back up the pipe.
When I saw how the shop was butted up against a hill, my first thought was, "that's gonna flood." Didn't expect it to happen so soon. Used pallet racks can be had pretty cheap. Nothing should be one the floor, cardboard wicks up moisture out of the concrete.
I would add a separate pipe that is solid for your downspouts. It looks like with the amount of rain you get your new pipe will fill up with just the downspout water, leaving no room for the other ground water.
Yep here on the very rainy west coast all new builds have separate lines. One for downspouts, one for drainage against the foundation. Heavy downpours can overwhelm the system otherwise
4" low-grade glue up long turn ells separate pipe for downspouts the system as it is shown is adding tremendous amount of water into your foundation/footing drain .
I recommend getting pallets to put stuff on. One, to prevent dampness due to concrete contact/water and Two, to make it easy to move stuff around with a pallet jack.
Had a massive tree (neighbors) fall on my 24X24garage. We put it back, paid for a second massive tree removal in her yard (she has no money). “Weeping may endure for the night, but joy cometh in the morning’ love your attitude!
Yep that hillside behind made me nervous from the first time I seen it. I’ve seen the same thing happen several times. Gotta have a good tile/drain system when u got a shop like that on a side hill. The worst is getting all that mud off the floors and everything, I feel for u brother. Sometimes life decides our projects for us 👍
Really needs to have a concrete foundation wall on the back side of that building to help keep water from seeping under the sill plate and to have a very large French drain installed around the building that should catach and shed water away from the building
Like others are saying, don't put your gutters into your foundation drain. Run the gutters underground in solid pipe and the foundation drain in perf pipe. PVC is more expensive but it's a lot cheaper than digging it up again if it ever gets clogged.
Even as someone with just basic construction knowledge could see the entire building and land grading was prone to exactly what happened. I'm very sorry to see this and have experienced the same thing from winter flooding due to quick snow thaw. I would make sure as others have already said to cover all your bases to keep this from happening again. Wishing you the very best, great videos.
What your doing at the back of your shop with the weeping tile and the rip rap is not enough for all that water coming down from the hill! You should also dig a large swale behind the tree line and let it drain away from your shop!👍🇨🇦
Hi Derek I've been doing drainage for many years and that line behind the garage is Not deep enough! It's almost level with your concrete top and walls which I can see there was no heavy plastic wrap, or a tar coated insulation wrapped around the building or at least across the back because it was well-known a flood area. I would try to save your drive by running a line of tile on the other side of your fence! I'm from Bucyrus Ohio a farm gal so I know about laying tile I had a French drain too!! Good luck I love your videos you 2 are awesome parents!!
@@jarrsong Fabric is the new standard, but a lot of old school systems are still doing just fine as well. As long as perf pipe is surrounded by rock, it should be just fine. I do agree that the pipe looked shallow in back.
From experience I can tell you it will work. The only addition to this solution is a three foot wall around the shop. leave about a foot open which will also guide the water around the building... My 70 foot long wall was around another 6K. worked like a champ...
Sorry to hear the news. I watch another channel called Gate City Foundation Drainage out of North Carolina. One thing he says is to keep the pipe solid that's carrying the water from the gutter to keep that water separate from the surface water captured by the corrugated pipe.
I don't think they're "cheap" but Big Ass Fans provides a quality product, and they stand behind them. I believe their headquarters is in Kentucky. (Maybe an episode touring their production facility would help a guy get a discount)
I should add for Derek's benefit, they do allow censorship when needed for their advertising, so they would likely allow you to toy with the name in your own style, if you didn't want that on your channel. Big Donkey Twirlers lol
I have the same golf cart, I fought pumps and various fuel delivery problems for twenty years. I added a two pound elec fuel pump at the outside bottom of the fuel line coming out of the tank, this solved all the fuel issues on my 1985 Yamaha golf kart
Just for future reference, if you pour a concrete stem-wall up against the back and side walls you'll not have that flooding inside again. Thnx for the update!
I only know this because hindsight is 20/20, and i did it for clients during my construction career. Thnx again for the update, and sorry for you bad luck!
@@ViceGripLodge ... On the fence posts a little 'round up' goes a long way , just dribble it on the posts and you can cut right up next to them w/ the mower... and please remember "We do it right Cuz We do it Twice" ... there is no shame in that.... Many Blessings , SMR
Civil engineer here…. you might think about adding a berm beyond your rip rap ditch up the hill in case the channel gets overwhelmed. Also, sod everything upstream of your riprap channel. Good luck! We sure enjoy your content. Sorry this happened. Looks like you have a good crew working on it.
Have to agree with berm. We had a bad flood here in SC and our property at bottom of hill. It was disaster. We built a berm really cheap and easy. It works amazingly. Nice grassy hill looks nice too. Would be great on your property. Considerably cheaper than what many others are suggesting.
All derrick I'm so sorry to hear that. You were making so much progress . Wish we could help you. It hit 20 miles south of me in Apollo beach Florida. Keep the faith. You'll pull through and no one in your family got hurt. Neal
Two recommendations: Get some pallet size shelving, and keep everything up off the floor. Even stuff on the floor that is on a pallet first will keep longer. Also, provided there is nothing against it locally, you may want to get a ocuple of shipping containers to put next to the shop to use for longer term storage. Put them up on blocks or on concrete pads, and they too will be relatively immune to any water issues. It will also free up a ton of space in your shop.
When I was watching the build one of the first things I thought was there is going to be drainage problems with that hillside behind your shop.Especially with the denuded vegetation and moved soils. I won't pontificate on what should be done since you are already addressing the issue and working with local soils and watershed. I watched,felt bad for the flood but still drank a few Keystones and enjoyed the content.
Just saw this video. I can totally relate to the flood. 20 years ago, I woke up to 5 inches of water in my basement. I know what you and Jessica went through in the process of moving, drying, and moving your stuff around. Kudos to Jessica for catching it early. Great job on the shop. Nice layout, lots of room for modification. Love the double hoist. Thought about a bedroom or a mezzanine above the shelter area. For those late nights and lucky guests. No matter what the subject, your videos are always worth the watch. Not a bad one yet. Good Karma.
Sorry this happened to your shop! I'd rather see that T drain connector after your downspout turned into a Y type that would help push the roof water around the corner in the direction you're trying to send the water. The T connector may send water both directions in heavy downpours.
If a guy wants a little cheapo insurance, form up those 6 x 6 posts in the back of the shop and fill um up with concrete about 9 inches high. Might not be totally water proof but will protect against the mud. Makes a good place to set a cold snack to keep it off the floor.
@@ripvanrevs What you’re referring to is called a rat wall. The back wall should have a 1ft high and 2 sidewalls should be 6inches high. Yes had he built his shop correctly to begin with, the water wouldn’t have gotten in. He like most didn’t want to spend the extra money. He complains about things being expensive, well he’s going to really be upset when he finally figures up how much he spends to correct the problem and the “repairs” in this video WON’T fix the problem.
@@JP-kb4yi EXACTLY 💯 what was he thinking building below a mountain without rat walls or giant Retaining Wall 🧱 unfortunately it's all his fault to begin with. Sad.
Derek, your "trench" up on the hill isn't wide enough to carry the volume of water coming down the mountain. Clay soil won't allow the water to peculate so all of it is looking for the low point to pool. Definitely look at the building grade and make sure the lower ditch is lower than the building or you'll be mopping that floor again. When you are setting the drainage ditch assume you'll have 1" of water covering that whole mountain coming for your building. I'd hate to see a guy and gal have to go through this again.
I'd consider digging a moat drain using a lot of 6 - 8" around the rear of the building with a 12" drain pipe taking everything away to a safer run-off to one side and downhill.
I moved to Tennessee a few years ago and also learned a lot about water drainage. Also the hard way like you! It’s a never ending always changing story. Rain here is brutal. Good luck in the future!
For the fulel set up, gonna need rigid conduit with explosion proof fittings and AHJ approved wiring method. Some require stuffing and fire proof putty/ caulk. Arc/ GFCI combo breaker, if you can get it. We're being told no time soon on them in Kentucky. Love the videos. Thanks for all the hard work. Square D QO
Some really go professionals jumped into to help you. If and engineer will help you, use them if you can. It's such a nice shop. Make sure it never happens again. Prayers for you. Neal.
Wow. This is another side of you we never see. Makes me even more impressed in the way you do these revivals. We think you guys are the best and wish you luck.
I've been following this with interest, and I'm sorry that this event has set you back. I've moved lots over the years, and the first thing I do when I get a new shop or garage, is build shelves. I always used the suggestions that an article in Hot Rod magazine shared about 30 - 35 years ago. I'd suggest shelving behind every car lift, to hold the parts you need for those vehicles on those lifts. I used the 2X4 uprights, and 1X4 front and rear slats, and then plywood for the shelves. Anything on wheels or in plastic bins on the floor, heavier stuff in the next 2 shelves, and then light stuff on the next ones. Spacing gets taller as you go up. 16" depth, 8' tall. You'll wish you had done it years ago. You might have to move the lifts back a foot, but I highly recommend it. Talk about Organization!!! Could a guy, actually......? I love what you're doing, especially including your kids. I look forward to your revival videos, and the crew cab build was epic! PS, I have to agree that you need a good retaining wall. What you have there is not enough, and the next rain event could bring more mud. We're calling them rain events now. We had one in November that washed out the 3 highways and 2 rail lines that isolated Vancouver from the rest of the country for a few days. They're still repairing one highway, new bridges, etc.
So sorry this happened to you guys, what a pain. On a positive note, the cold snack porch and awning look great! Looking forward to the rest of the build 👍
Ya I watched the shop build just yesterday, I noticed that high ground behind, sorry this happened Derek, dig that ditch down down down! 2-3 ft below shop grade then rock it in, not level but a V shape like ViseGrip❤
Oh I feel your pain, when I built my garage, it was a similar situation on a hillside, and when dug the foundation I was 24 inches lower than I should have. First heavy rainstorm we had 2 inches of water in the garage, the garage doors were actually holding the water back. Ended up having 8 inch perf drain installed, with 36 inch wide trenches and 2 large concrete drain basins to catch any thawing snow or influx of major 100 year rain, etc. Needless to say, a huge headache and lesson learned. Very expensive mistake, but extremely happy with end results. Hope your solution corrects the issue, I'm sure it will..
I should have mentioned it earlier in the build, but having worked in several shops, suggest you enclose the compressor with an exterior exhaust fan. Foam board insulation will help cut the sound cheaply so it doesn't interfere with your filming too.
You have a lot of comments by drainage experts here, so no comment from me on that. Hope it all works out. I have seen the power of water running off of fields at our recreational property near Durand, WI. Our cabin was located at the base of the runoff in a coulee. Rivers of chocolate brown water running past the cabin after a big rain. So much water and so much power in that water. On the shop, wow!! Looks great. The electrical, the floor, the doors, and the plan all look fantastic. I was waiting to hear about HVAC, and you discussed it. 105F in Tennessee in the summer will make for a hot barn, as I am sure you know. My MG mechanic in Chippawa Falls, WI has a new shop with wonderful HVAC installed. A smaller version of your shop. I had a starter installed in my 57-year-old MGB earlier this summer and it was very pleasant to sit and "help" him in the cool shop. Looking forward to more shop tours as your projects unfold.
Being an electrical engineer and wired my own detached garage I see you had the right electricians for the job. Done professionally and as I would expect.
I agree. The conduit bends looked very good and consistent. If the end product, what you can see from the ground, looked that well, I would think the power distribution is more than adequate as well.
@@rogersmith3960 hard to tell if that was 3/4 or 1" emt, but the wire capacity of either should carry the length of that building. Especially if the circuits were loaded properly which I have to believe they are. You don't employ electricians that can make those types of bends and space them that well if your electrical engineer and architect doesn't know what he's doing. That work looks more industrial grade than commercial. I saw no mc cable anywhere. Those were wire pulls from one end to the other. Looked like good work. The tell tell to me would be if the cover screws all lined up vertically! Lol. If you know you know!
I'd go insane with that tragedy, and give you credit for moving forward without a rant or two. Sometimes DIY is costly. Engineers or other professionals cost a penny but you pay them for what they know, not necessarily what they do. Best of luck with the new homestead. As for your wife handling all that while you were away on business -- you have a keeper!
I've done a lot of drainage and all I can say is that you absolutely need geotexitle fabric around every drain line you want to absorb water. They get plugged in a season and you're going to be back to the beginning digging all that up. I would also have laid fabric in the top ditch before you put the rip rap in. It's cheap and great insurance.
You could have used an angle grinder on that transition ridge on the floor, knock the high spots off. Then a guy that’s good with a trowel could float that area with bridge concrete. You’d likely still see it but it would look 95% better. And you could roll toolboxes etc over it without having to put up ramps
Sorry to hear about the water. I’ve been there when sump pump failed. One suggestion is to get lots of plastic totes and see if you can get wood pallets to stack the totes on. Just in case.
Just like plumbing...water runs down hill or path of least resistance....dig it out at the back, pour tons of 'porous" gravel to take the water away from where u don't want it! Simple fix! Ty brother Derek
It's going to do it again. They just installed a fancier band-aid this time. That hill, although expensiver, needs to be cut back away from the shop so that you can slope the "pad" (that was never actually built correctly) away from the shop at least 10-15 feet. A diversion terrace or "berm" as others have called it needs to be constructed on top of the hill. While you're up there, make two of them, one on either side of the road that is up there. It isn't complicated at all but excavation cannot be done correctly and cheaply at the same time. Instead of that being a dirt path, have someone that knows what they're doing make you a road up there. That will cause them to cut you a ditch on either side of it. One between the road and fence and one of the other side near the hill. Use the spoils from both road ditches to build a diversion terrace on the top of the hill. 100% of the water from the neighbor will be sent to Rusty Acres and the house, presumably, or whatever is on the other side of the shop. Erosion and flood control measures will then have to be addressed in those areas until you can get it all sent to the neighbor below you so he can make new plans and a RU-vid channel. then, you will deal with only what falls on the rock slope. I do this every day. There is no such thing as overkill when it comes to fighting water runoff. Buried pipes have a defined capacity and are easily overwhelmed and clogged in clay soils like yours. Rip Rap should never be installed in that application without a geomat material underneath it. It will silt in the first time it gets saturated like this last storm and become useless. Good luck with it, wish I was closer because I could fix it in two days with just the dirt on site. Find the old man in town with the track loader business and turn him loose on it.
Maybe put a little berm or a concrete diversion dam (wall) between the ditch at the bottom of the hill and the building as well? Something to physically prevent water from running down to the back of the shop?
All that needs to be done is a wide swale with a 3 degree slope away from your building. But not into the neighbours either. Easy job. You don’t need rock or gravel. All highways are a perfect example . Just look at the side of them.
Suggestion for the air compressor: an 8 hour timer on a solenoid. When you need air you hit the button and it stays open for 8 hours and then automatically closes. No more forgetting about it.
I keep forgetting my air line on, but I do turn the power off disconnect. but the hose or line would probably beat the garage apart before that 100+ gallon tank runs out 😵. lol
I agree with several of the comments, I think a zoom call is very much needed to address your water problems to help insure flooding does not occur in the future. Good luck, you have one of the best channels on youtube.
Ideally you should have made French drains, using filter cloth to line and cover the gravel ditches, with a filter sock fitted perforated drainage pipe. This stops it getting clogged with silt and clay from just normal rain. A normal ditch up the slope would be very effective and require minimal maintenance to keep clear.
Watching this as my shop is filling with water. Its been POURING for the past hour. Luckily, I know what happens to my shop when it rains. Previous owner built my shop on a large hillside like yours and didn't do anything for water management. No drain tile, no culvert or anything at all. Wish I could meet the fella and ask him what the hell he was thinking.
As a trapper, I use steel traps that are pretty rusty after the season. So I soak them in vinegar water over night. In the morning I hose off all the rust, then dip them back in vinegar to keep them from rusting again before they dry, so I can paint them. You may be able to do that with parts and hand tools so you can use them. I use 50/50 mix of vinegar & water.
As a licensed professional civil engineer, I can tell you this "fix" is going to fail. The french drain on the top of the hill is located too close to the slope. The slope is too steep and will become water logged by the french drain at which point is will slough off. NEVER use corrugated pipe to convey water long distances; always use smooth wall schedule 40. The corrugated pipe around your building is far too small. Each downspout should be on it's own pipe, and a separate pipe should be used with area drains behind your building to collect runoff. I'm a huge fan and don't want to see you go through this again.
You are trying to solve a surface water flow/control problem. Drains are not the way to go (Period). As you say, that drain is going to fill up with water and silt and end up causing a failure plane in the fill that he has stacked up behind the shed. He will soon find the hill has demolished his shed completely. First rule. The ground outside the slab should be at least 10 inches lower than the slab (with dirt/gravel ramps up to doors). Second rule is that the ground must be cut to form a really wide Over Land Flow Path (OLFP) with falls to the low side of the property (where previously uninterrupted surface water was going). The bigger the water flow you are dealing with, the wider and/or deeper the overland flow path needs to be. Looks like he needs at least 12 feet wide by 18" deep along the back of the shed, but can't fit that. He needs to cut the top off that fill/slope behind the shed (to stabilise it) and place the fill further upslope (30 to 40 feet) and use it to form a bund that will deflect the surface water (over the surface rather than in high maintenance drains) around the ends of the bund and the shed
@@flyingcrocodile4630 His problem is proximity to that tree row to make your plan work. I don't know if he owns the property behind it or not. If he does, it would work. If not, he doesn't have the room.
You need louvered exhaust fans in the ends of the gables. Figure out what direction the wind naturally blows. Have the fan on that side draw air in and the fan on the other side draw air out. It will pull cooler outside air through the building. There will be a massive hot air buildup in the top. Regular fans will just push that hot air up and down.
You could also dig against your back slab and place a flashing up the wall a few inches and under the ground a foot it would be another barrier. Looking great
I'd throw a couple more drain tiles along side that one for more capacity. I'd also keep the gutters in a separate tile that isn't corrugated. Looking back, it would have been better to have a poured wall foundation along the hillside part
Glad to get a new VGL video but feel bad this happened to you Derek. But minus the flood, the building looks great. Love the idea of having an ol fuel pump that works sitting in front of the shop. Will be a neat addition.
I would have added a seperate drain for the gutters that roof is gonna catch some water add that to the hillside water be worth adding a second pipe hope U get it sorted
If I may offer advice, do not drain your eavestroughs into a perforated drainage pipe. It may end up filling up your ditch out back opposite to what you want. Use it to drain the stone ditch (French drain). I would run a separate non perforated pipe for your gutters Otherwise looking good!
So sorry for the flood and all the families hard work. I'm very sad for such an awesome shop, to have a bad time. NOT FAIR. Yall will grow and be even more heck yea!!!!! Keep it up vice grip family!!! We all love what you do.
Derek I bought my house over 20 years ago I looked at many houses my dad told me always to buy a house that is higher than its surrounding land. So I made sure my house was on the top of a hill never had a issue even when we got over 7" of rain in one evening. My road was flooded for 3 days after the rain. My sump pumps didn't even come on. Water is no joke. Sorry to see your water issues. I hope your drain ditch solution works for you! I am a big fan of yours!! I have a VGG sticker on my V8 swapped 1984 Datsun I don't put just any sticker on my car......
I lost everything I owned in a rising flood, so I know how it goes. My heart goes out to you all. I'm concerned because what you are showing is just not enough. You would need something far bigger than that 6 in corregated drain pipe and rip-rap. It looks like you have maybe ten acres of land sending rainwater directly toward the shop. Plus that dirt road behind the shop is unstable and has nothing holding it in place. It could slip and wreck the entire back of the building. You need the advice of a landscape architect/engineer to reshape the property coming off that hill. Maybe put in an adequately sized catch basin on the other side of the trees with a spillway that leads the water away from the building. I think clearing out that hedgerow last year maybe also let the water come off the hill more easily.
I think I would have wrapped the riprap with an erosion fiber material to prevent the sand from clogging the riprap. Worst case if the material gets plugged up, you can either remove and replace or clean the material from time to time. I'd also HEAVILY hydro-seed that hill and build a temporary straw bale wall at the base of that hill (uphill of the riprap drain) behind the shop to catch all that loose sandy soil/mud at least until the hydro-seed takes hold and controls the inevitable erosion. That 8" rise you pointed out at the drain entrance at the 25:00 mark will fill in on it's own with all that loose soil. If you level it with the pipe, the soil will end up INSIDE the pipe. Leave the "catch basin" at the inlet side and it will fill in on its own. If it's still low after the grass has grown in, then you can fill it but trust me, if you level that off, the soil WILL wash into that pipe.
Hi guys ...I've lived in this area for a bunch of years.. so I figured out you are actually a neighbor..used to ride horses on that property.. what made me realize where you're located ...was the mention of the cave . I was in that cave few times back in the late sixty's..my wife and I enjoy your channel
Can't remember the last time I heard somebody on the internet take responsibility for anything. That's refreshing, and adds to my respect for you. Sorry you got flooded.
“Letting the check book cool down a little”. I feel your pain. I’m right smack dab in the middle of a similar project. But it sure will be nice when done and the sting wears off. Cheers!
I'm sorry this happened. That hill had me concerned when I watched the build. I.R.C. (international residential code) requires all Grading around a structure to slope away from the structure for the first 10'.
Looking Great, (WATER) It's a very simple process for you to get out, if you catch it first, Life like you said gets in the way, then the water is the problem Derek and Family, Have a Great Day God Bless VGG
I feel for you brother, something similar happened in my shop years back. The water was contaminated with sewage too. To this day I don't store stuff on the floor.
I’d seriously think about terraces on that hill behind the shop! There’s programs through your local NRCS office to help with that. Otherwise it will happen again.
As you were reviewing the inside I noticed that there wasn't anything to protect your metal walls from bumps and bruises from autos and runaway golf carts. When we built our new farm building we installed a 2x12 about 21-25 inches about the floor on the inside of the posts to protect those walls. One loose and rolling tire or tool box, etc would put a nice bruise in that metal. Just a thought.
With 5+ years of landscaping experience here's what I know. Water will always take the path of least resistance. Every single time. With all the gutters going into that perforated pipe it won't be able to absorb the wash water. Your essentially going to have more water at the foundation with that set up because all the roof water is gunna come out the holes before it makes the trip around the building.
Vice Grip Lodge - a big ditch would have been more fitting ... if those pipes cannot handle the volume of water coming down that hill it will flood anyway. It is all about the volume, sure there is a ditch filled with stone that water can also run through in addition to pipe flow however the stones will take up most of that space because you filled the ditch with them. Stones do not float and cannot be displaced by water. . So your total volume of water flow potential per minute will be in direct relation to the volume of water the pipe can hold + the space around the stone in the ditch along with and how fast you can clear the ditch system based on your grade. I understand you would like to use the space behind your awesome building so you went the way you did but with the heigh of that hill I am concerned for you that your system will not be enough on bad days. . Picture driving down a hilly road on a rainy day both of the gigantic ditches on either side of the road will be like rivers flowing .. now can you imagine tiny 8 inch pipe or whatever keeping the water off such a road? Your hill is higher and broader than most roads !!! Hope that helps save you from next flood! Cheers bro
Your downspouts should have there own pipe, maybe even 6". and it should be solid pipe. i wouldn't drive your Winnebago on that perforated pipe, it will crush.
Hey Derek and Family, I’m sorry too see the water damage in the new shop.It’ll be a great shop when all is resolved. You’ve come a long way from your two car garage in Minnesota! Good Stuff! Harry 😎👍🇺🇸
I totally understand where you're coming from. However, thumbs up are for the video, not the disaster. More thumbs up plays into the youtube algorithm which allows more views, which in turn equals more channel revenue. Its not malicious people laughing at the misfortunes of others.
God Blessed Derek and family and I’m so happy for you guys!!! Your shop is amazing and you deserve all of it because you work hard for your money fixing old cars! AND TRUCKS!!!! Hope the new improvements work and everything stays dry!!!! 😅
Two things I’d highly recommend, 1. Oil waste furnaces that burn used motor oil, diesel, and transmission fluid 2. Would be a natural gas generator for whenever the power goes out.
I don't know how you didn’t see that coming. You have that huge waterslide behind you with only one place for it to go, into your shop. What else did you expect! 🤔 That's probably why the last guy got rid of the place, he was tired 😫 😩 of dealing with the same issue.
I didn't think that the drainage system was going to work the first time. Water is relentless and your building is at the bottom of a mountain. I hope this new system works out O.K. Good Luck!
French drain , I've done the same thing , It works .I feel for you Derek , we came home from vacation and water was up to door knob on basement door , sump pump decided to go belly up , when I needed it . Ridgid pump , bought another one and it went out too ,
I'm a military kid and a combat veteran. Super tough when all of a sudden things hit you at once. This video makes me chest tight. So many things. Wobbly pops makes it better. I understand the stress and the responsibility you are going through. Buy a bread maker thing a ma jig.
Very expensive lesson about drainage. Looks like you are on the right track. Love the flow. Stonhard mortar floor is the best shop floor ever. Did lots of CNC shop floors. You can even do acid resistant
