When reassembling the manifold - you left out re-ataching the vacuum hose, that you noticed you needed to disconnect earlier. This is a really important step as it is specifically a brake vacuum hose and if not connected your brakes will essentially fail. I found this out since I forgot to re-connect it.
I'm in agreement regarding this video. It IS the best one I've seen. Great explanations and instructions. But for me......nope! I'm at a point in my life where I can still do the minor repairs I need (such as replacing the hoses leading to my heater core that failed recently). But, thankfully, I'm also at the point where I can pay someone do go through this mess of a hassle. Once again, though, great video.
This is excellent. Thanks for producing it. The same procedures hold true for fullsize NV series vans with the 4.0L six. The dealer only gets $800 to change out the plugs.
If you don’t want to take off the intake manifold, get a ratcheting box wrench. You can take off the front spark plug by pulling the valve through the little loop hole that the air intake line creates.
Great video! I took the opportunity while the intake manifold was off to put in a manifold spacer and a cold air intake. Haven't had the chance to see what difference they make... but it definitely was the time to do it
The bracket at the top rear on the manifold: Just remove the 2 10mm bolts and push the whole thing out of the way (after unclipping the harness from it). Don't worry about the connector attached at the bottom.
In no small part thanks to this video, I knocked this out today. It only took me a solid 4 hours, but at least 1 of those hours was a bit of existential anxiety after I couldn't find a bolt that was hidden underneath the bracket underneath that wiring harness. To my surprise, everything powered up and ran, no bolts were lost, and 5 out of 6 spark plugs were in predictably old but nominal shape. Number 6, on the other hand, was oily. Guess that's where that pint of oil every six months is going... A small note to anyone attempting this: If it wasn't obvious, you will use every kind of extension imaginable. I had a 1/4" and 3/8" drive, flex head and not, and 3, 6, and 9 inch extensions. You may need normal-ass crescent wrenches to help bust loose some of the particularly stubborn bolts. Likewise, a flex head in 10 and 12 millimeter make a whole lot of things way easier.
this video helped me a bunch but there are 7 total bolts and nuts holding the manifold down. Various extensions and or swivel will help. for onw on the back a rachetting 10mm. and all ofther bolts will be a 12 i believe. various pliers. Spark plug socket that fits your wrench set unless you have an adapter. a box to keep all the parts that you remove from the vacuum hoses and intake manifold. put the ignition coil screws up by the window and the coils on the floor or desk in orientation they are removed so that you can visually know how to put it back. I went ahead and bit the bullet and bout the ignition coil for cylinder 1 because i truly believe it is the only reason i took off the intake manifold and i don't plan on taking it off again. Try to remove as little vacuum hose as possible. Because they are all old and brittle lol
I watched several videos to do this on my Frontier and I can say this was the best one. The detail and explanations are going to make this job go smoother. I wholeheartedly agree with getting the factory plugs. Cost me about double of others but I don't want to do this again in 50,000 miles.
You dont need to remove the manifold, it's a waste of time and the passenger side spark plugs can be changed without removing the manifold, saving atleast a few hours on the project. Just an fyi
Last year, I had to replace the drain pump on my washing machine. It uses spring clamps like those on the hoses you showed. I tried using a pair of channel locks like you used, but they kept slipping off the spring clamps. I went to the local NAPA dealer and bought a pair of spring clamp pliers. One of the best tool investments I've ever made!
PERFECT tutorial with every single step covered. had to rewind a few times to make sure i did everything right but clearly demonstrated. my only critique is please say which size bolt / socket / wrench you use at each step. THANK YOU!
I have been looking all over RU-vid for a video like this. Now I feel very confident to replace my spark plugs. I have done it in the past but never had to remove the intake manifold. I must say the thought of it seemed a bit overwhelming but now, not so much. You are my go to guy now. Thanks a bunch.
You don’t need to take out the intake manifold to change the spark plug i have done it many times and i don’t need to take it out only one spark plug is a little difficult
Why would throttle body unlearn settings if it's just unplugged? Doesn't the computer tell it what to do? Would it lose settings if battery had to be replaced???
18:25... How the heck was that easy dude?!?!... You took off the intake manifold and had to replace the gaskets to replace the sparkplugs... WTSF Nissan?!?!
Good video. However, it is very important to speak of the torque specifications for: Spark Plugs Intake manifold bolts ...and all other bolts. A first timer could watch this video and believe they could use their electric drill and over torque the bolts.
That's a lot of work just to replace spark plugs. When I go to do mine I'm going to replace all the coil packs and PCV valve and anything that looks defective also. Plus it seems like a good time to clean the throttle plate also.
FOR ANYONE HERE. YOU DO NOT NEED TO TAKE THE MANIFOLD OFF TO CHANGE THE PLUGS ON VQ40 On the side with the manifold obstruction, remove the middle, then the rear and then the front. Plenty of space to fit your hand in there. Should take less than 40 min for the entire job start to finish.
Awesome video. Followed it all the way and it took about an hour and a half. BUT there are more than 6 bolts that have to come off that top. Also I didn’t bother with that back hose. I just lifted up the intake and changed out the gaskets from underneath.
It would be a good idea to replace pcv valve while intake is off. Also will be easier to replace cam position sensor if you have codes showing bad sensors.
No joke but you can do this without removing the intake manifold. Tough maneuvering but with enough swivels and wobbles the front passenger can be removed.
Thats what i thought.... Im scared to start. Also i messed up the head on one of the throttle body bolts a little last time i took it out to clean it. I hope it comes out again
at 4:15 i am confused. sounds like you are saying do not remove the cable from the throttle body but then sounds like you said go ahead and do it because all will be fine?
According to Orielly's auto parts store website, this spark plug is not made for the 06 Nissan Frontier, which is what I drive. Just relaying what the info website says. Thanks for the video though, how much would you charge a customer for this job?
So I have a 07 Pathfinder and I disconnected the throttle body connection when I had a misfire in cylinder 1, and when I put everything back I didn't notice anything weird with it, so what relearn are you talking about?
I changed my 2008 Xterra plugs and one ignition coil without removing the intake manifold, just need various sizes of 1/4” and 3/8” wobble extensions to get the job done. Easy and saves time. Next job will be to change both the upper camshaft chain tensioner plastic shoes, starting to make noise!
thanks for the clear concise video.... My 2015 Frontier has about 55 K miles so not quite there yet. The only thing I would do as the owner is to clean or al least vacuum the engine before taking out the manifold to avoid getting dirt and debris in the engine. I know no shop would do that before hand but the owner probably would.
Are you a mind reader or something! Do you really think that you are smarter than a master mechanic and we do not clean around areas where vital entry points to the inside of the engine are going to be exposed! You are not some kind of Genius or mental giant, But you must be a narcissist to say that you know no shop would do that before hand but owners probably would!
It's weird all the parts houses like O'Reilly's and AutoZone here in southern Oregon say that it takes a double Platinum is the Oe why would their computers be so off
I don't want to do this myself. What is a realistic price that a certified and competent mechanic would charge for replacing the spark plugs and PCV valve and cleaning the throttle body? I overstand that dealerships make their money in the service department and I'm all for Capitalism and whatnot, but the Nissan dealership wants $700 for this, which seems ri-FN-diculous, considering that we're talking about $150 or so in parts.
I found something interesting that I could not explain when I changed my spark plugs in my 2012 Nissan Frontier. The forward intake plenum had two little holes on the underside. The holes where about 0.1-0.125 inch in diameter. I did not have time to explore it too far but they seem that they would let air in. I'm calling the forward plenum the duct between the air cleaner and the drive by wire throttle body. The two holes looked factory clean. Has anyone else noticed these holes?
Nothing is as easy as you think it will be. I am dreading this job. My truck just turned 100k miles. Just for laughs....what do service stations charge for this job?
hello good video how can I know which is the correct spark plug for my nissan frontier pro 4x. 2011? since in an auto parts they gave me long ones and the ones I took away were short, it helps!!!!!!
I did my girlfriends 3.7 F150 and it was a lot less crap to remove than this. Buying a Frontier and already dread this lol. Wish brands would do these intakes so this isn't necessary
Looking into doing this particular job really soon (save myself $900 - the cost of the plugs). I noticed you have the power roll, but could it still be done with a hand ratchet set? What are the told that are needed to do this job? -Thanks
The rear harness bracket (x2 fasteners) appears to be removed from the intake - see 8:53:18:44. At 12:49/18:44 I see the aft harness bracket has been removed. At 15:18/18:44 I can see he pre-installed the rear harnesses to the aft bracket. I'm assuming that hold the aft bracket in place while removing and installing the intake manifold. To install the bracket to the intake manifold you need to remove the main harness clips to get to the fasteners. At 14:10/18:44 you can see the harness aft bracket is not there when he installed the intake. I have this feeling that aft bracket and harnesses are going to be a pain to reach in and install.
@@scott8238 No grease. Plug threads are coated already. Anti seize will interfere with proper grounding between plug and engine block. Yes, torque to spec (18 ft-lbs).
Just did this, don't need to pull off the manifold foe the rear spark plug, and just needed to shift the manifold out of the way to get access to the 2 front
I wish all automotive vídeos were as well explained as it is this one, excellent verbage and instructions from this guy. I just got a question about a humming noise coming from my Nissan 2016 Frontier. This noise started about a year ago and it really is bugging me. We moved to Puerto Rico and I really don't trust mechanics in the Island, so I want to Fix it myself. The noise comes every time I release the gas pedal or let go of it. Anything will help! Thanks a lot!
"Easy". I have to agree with you, especially after changing my 2015 323 xi plugs recently (only 4), where the dealership wanted to charge around $400, but I did it myself. The only real expense were the plugs and some swivel extensions...oh and time. That last plug near the firewall made the job 2x as long to complete just because of that 1 plug LOL. and thank you for making a step-by-step video, this looks much easier since all the plugs are accessible after removing a few pieces :D
The rear harness bracket was not bad at all but there was a sequence that needed to follow to get to the fastener then reverse the sequence for installation. This video was excellent for planning. There is actually four harness attachments to the aft bracket. I could only undo three of them before removing the intake. I removed the bracket attach bolts and removed the intake with the bracket attached to the fourth wire harness attachment. I removed the bracket from the fourth harness attachment post removal of the intake. Then reversed the order for installation. All four electrical harness attachments just clicked into place.
If you do unhook the mass airflow sensor how does it idle, and is there a video on how to reset it, had to unplug it because those alan screws were completely rounded off inside
@@carid is this also a problem with ones that are manual transmission because I didn't have a problem with it last time when I had to disconnect it when I did a tune up, I had a cataylic converter go bad on me and fauled out a spark plug this time so had to disconnect it again but seems like it's still running on 5 cylinders so now checking to see if it's the coil
@@carid I'm thinking I might have more problems from the bad cataylic converter might need to check all plugs or more of the coils, so far I only checked the passenger side since that's the side the cataylic converter was on
@@carid I doubt it's really that common with every make and model . I use to change plugs on all kinds of vehicles and removing the intake manifold only beacame necessary on a lot of front wheel drive V6 engines. Not really common on rear wheel drive vehicles so much . Either way its ridiculous to remove an intake on an engine just to change spark plugs .
Cardboard over the holes that the removal of the intake left behind. That should save you a lot of cussing and freaking out from dropping hardware into the engine
