NO START PROBLEM FIXED! C10 Ignition Switch Removal And Install, HOW TO VIDEO 

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Happy the video was useful, and that is great info

I replaced mine cause I’m having this exact same issue. Now when i turn the key it binds a lot and the key doesn’t retract when i try to start it. It turns the power on but it doesn’t start, it binds and doesn’t retract. Does it have to do with it being loose?

It could be, let me know if the video helped

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A trick: you can watch series at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.

@Malik Wesson yea, been using flixzone for months myself :D

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It can be a pain

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Great idea I bought a new part put it in same problem no power

Thanks for the visit

If it dont, try the neutral safety switch

Where is the switch located? Mine is a 3 on the tree

@@holinessorhell1964 should be on the clutch pedal, have two wires going to a switch. U can cross the wires over to see if it will start

@@TattsForLife Thanks again brother..

@@holinessorhell1964 welcome let me know if it works

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Happy you found it helpful, have more videos on this c30 coming soon

Thanks, it was a really good engine but seen a many a mile, the truck is now getting a LS engine

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lol Hopefully your repair goes great

Happy to have helped

I had a time getting that back in to when I removed mine lol I failed to note what way it came out lol

Best of luck, also check your safety switch

@@TattsForLife So after further investigation I found out that whoever ran the battery cable decided to run it along side the exhaust manifold and it was melted through. Replaced and rerouted the cable. Problem fixed.

Your welcome

Yes that would be a sign

Ignition Switch

Hi friend, I have your exact same problem. I too have a 79 model and when I turn the key nothing lights up, it looks dead.

Fist have you tryed to start it in natural

Good luck, if its not this, then check the neutral safety switch, both will cause a no start

Guess I’ll try the Safety Switch because that didn’t fix it! 😿 Thanks!

Have you took a volt meter to the fuel pump plugs and see if power is their, and if not check your tank switch valve and see if its getting power cause it should be what sends power to both pumps

sorry for the late reply, can you shorten down what is happening? or have you got it fixed yet?

@@TattsForLife basically it ran then shut off in traffic then he started it back up drove home. went to start it the next day and it just turns over . we replaced every single electrical component and still nothing? check all wires under the hood even fusable links all good. i replaced the ignition switch and netural switch. then I narrowed it down to the bulk head wire connections or the wires from the bulk head to the ignition switch . i had to take out the distributor in order to replace the pickup coil. then thats where the 2nd problem started.i previously marked the location where the distributor was facing including the direction of the rotor. went to put it back in and it wont fully engage? there is less then a 5/16 gap from the bottom of the distributor base to the base on the intake . I feel the teeth engage but it seems like the oil pump shaft or gear is catching on something? I have shined a bright light down in the hole from the back of the intake to the top of the oil pump but cant see anything? I guess we're at the point of pulling the oil pan and oil pump off and see if it goes back in ?

Sounds like the oil pump shaft isn’t splines into the distributor, and replacing everything won’t fix it if it doesn’t have voltage at the distributor

@@MoparMan-ff8fb I have a '76 k5 jimmy that's doing the exact same thing rite now..?.?

@@childofsmokeyhollowkidzyo2680 I think I'm going to have to drop the oil pan remove oil pump drop in the distributor and put in a new oil pump shaft and oil pump to fix the problem. I think the oil oil pump is the cause of the problem. it a high milage piece of shit with a possible loose shaft that comes out of the pump

Oh there isn’t any chipped key or anything like that in a square body so yeah if you can get the lock cylinder to turn over accessories should come on and it should start if it doesn’t I suspect the issue is somewhere else

@@TattsForLife so starter, wiring, distributor?

@@TattsForLife for context it's a 1982 c30 dually with the 350. Been sitting for 8 years.

yes they should be a video of install and fixed

Good luck

should be same cause Chevy don't change interior parts often

works on auto and standard

do you have a ground from motor to the body, and a ground from motor or body to frame, and a ground from frame to battrey, and one ground from engine to battrey?

back fire can be from bad dissy or coil, or a bad cam, or bad fuel could be many things, make a list and check it off one by one

yes it could cause that issue

This is also a truck that will only run with the starter engaged

When the light is on it need pushed in a bit futher to engage the starter, then u let off and it will be in the run position