Norton Front ISOLASTIC installation 

Yes, I apologise for being lazy. But in the end I don't have any real tricks for the job other than beveling the edge perhaps. They can be a pain in the but to start but soapy water helps too.

First off you have to make sure you got the right kit. There are two, one if you have narrowed the mount tube and the later version which is made for the Mark III. The earlier bikes had a wider mount tube that has to be narrowed 1/8" on either side or use the special vernier kit. I think the kit for the pre mark III is 06.7337.

@saywhatsaywhat1 hi, thanks for your fast reply, yes I have the 7337 kit for my 72 750

The old Isolastics come out easy enough, it's getting the new ones in that takes some effort. I don't have the camera setup to really show how I did it but it's a matter of mounting the tube in a vice and lubing up the rubber, and leaning on it whilst easing the iso assembly in place. It takes some patience and a fair amount of pressure to get it to slide in. (we're still talking motorcycles here, right?) ;-)

Thanks. Any chance you'll show how to do the rear iso mount? There's one video out there showing a renewal without removing the engine from frame. They use a car engine hoist to lift bike frame quite high to get clearance.

Yeah, that's pretty much the trick, just getting the clearance overall so you can have the room to muscle it in there. The rear mount through bolt can be a real bitch to get out sometimes. They tend to corrode more than the front and because it has the rubber guts you have to rig a way to draw the bolt out using nuts, spacers etc.

Would make a bad porn film director.

I used to get them from RGM in the UK but AN does supply them also

I just put them together as per the manufacturer's instructions. In the end I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter a whole lot.

Good idea, I guess I'm just used to putting these back together as they were built. In this case though there will be no need to pull it apart again. That's the beauty of the vernier adjustment; loosen the bolt, turn the adjuster and tighten it back up.

Yes, i meant that it would be the same if you open the screw or the nut for adjusting. And i think there would be no safety concern.

I did that on my Commando (I put the through-bolt in from the left, instead of from the right) the last time I rebuilt it, thinking that this way would be easier; and it is, except that I then realized why Norton did it the way they did: the reason the bolt goes in from the right and the nylock nut is on the left is so that you can reach the locknut with the torque wrench, which you need to do in order to tighten the whole thing as per specs. I think that doing it the other way means that there wouldn't be enough room to reach the locknut with the torque wrench because the hex ends up being so close to the front of the timing case/cover. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but this is the explanation that makes the most sense to me.

You're correct, leaving the bike parked on the centerstand (classic barn find bike procedure) for an extended period will make the rubber sag in one direction.

The smoothest, anti-vibration parallel twin designed and engineered that I'm aware of. An absolute joy to grunt around town, the twisties and the highway.