Oil Leak? DRILL it out! (Toyota Camry) + Timing Belt & EGR repair 

Is Hi Temp red silicone RTV OK? 1 hour set time, 24 hours for complete cure. That's what I have on hand. (I'm a newbie). Will the silicone RTV go bad after I open it after a year like house caulk? Thanks

instablaster

Great job

Good point

Haha Cuba I know! Cuts the labor time in half ;)

Can i do this for the first time in a weekend?

The additional parts make sense they wear out too and you don't want the engine to suffer a catastrophic failure.

Yeah, I had one of these for a few years and a slow oil pump seep was the only issue I ever had. Best car I ever owned for reliability and easy to work on, now my brother owns it and loves it. 5S-FE for life! 🙂

Yeah Josh, Toyota made some silky smooth long-lasting engines back in the day!

Thanks John! I like the locking feature so you can slide the clamp off easy and not bust your fingers :)

I used a regular pair of pliers to hold a hose clamp. When my hand got tired, it slipped and nearly took out my eye. Well not exactly, but close enough. The locking feature frees both hands to position the hose.

Yup I did that after barring the engine over a couple times to make sure the belt was in its "happy place" :)

Which is why if you buy a Asian timing belt kit you get no spring with it. They want you to buy a Toyota replacement spring which is shorter then the original. And then you don't need any special master tech knowledge.

Good to see you too, Chuck!

it's a noninterference motor , so good to learn on

I appreciate the comment!

johnaclark1 dorman and Gates water pumps suck. Wouldn’t trust them

Get Aisin kit, it's OEM Japan and US made belt, bearings and water pump at fraction of deal parts cost.

I've seen too many parts, even occasionally a dealer OEM one be bad right out of the box. Takes only a few seconds to check it on the bench and is definitely worth the peace of mind!!

Rexen, same thing happen to me. had a trans issue and it was the damage cause to the harness and sensor by the leaking oil from the plug

So you didn’t change the water pump?

I’ve got a ‘99. I didn’t change the water pump until the second timing belt change. There didn’t appear to be any issues with the original pump. I would say your should change it at the next belt change. Also change the oil pump o-ring and seal as that will start leaking by about that time. I always use the Toyota coolant too...

When was your second belt change? Time and miles?

HondaSolutions - 2nd belt was at 182K, 6 years ago. 185K cam cover seal, 200K EGR VSV, 219K oil pump seals, 226K oil pump seals again (shaft was leaking). It has about 235K on it now. Only problem is the valve stem seals need to be replaced. I’ll do the TB again when I do that.

That’s why you didn’t need a new pump until the second timing belt change was because it was 6 years ago. Time has wear on parts just like mileage does. Especially seals (water pump). When changing the water pump with the timing belt you have to consider the risk vs benefit. The risk is having to do it again if it leaks, possibly overheating the engine and causing a head gasket failure. The cost is less than $50. The benefit is piece of mind. I think the benefit far outweighs the risk on this car in the video at this time when it is 19 years old.

.....how a breakout box is used to diagnose Com issues?

breakout box just makes it easier to attach a scope or meter to the DLC. Then you need information on what the communication line waveforms should look like. Check out Keith's channel "New Level Auto" he has some great case studies using the breakout box :)

Yup the 4-banger is super smooth and quiet in this application. Toyota made some legendary engines back in the 90s!

Maybe 6 weeks then?

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Let's go with that number.

Ouch

6 weeks is for blend door actuators....

I would like to thank Dorman for supplying a replacement exhaust manifold for my 2010 Chevrolet Equinox 2.4 liter 4 cylinder gasoline engine, after the OEM manifold cracked around 90% of runner between cylinders 2 and 3, as occurs on every other example of this particular engine, just as soon as the basic warranty expires, so I am led to believe by numerous owners. (For those who own one but doubt this, remove the heat shield from the top of the manifold and look carefully with a flashlight.) I also want to thank Dorman for improving on the original design by beefing up the casting and making it just long enough so that it absolutely will not fit into the space provided by Chevrolet when the engine was designed and the car was built. Just as soon as I have ground off enough metal to shoehorn it onto place and get it bolted up, I hope the 7-days-in-service warranty will be enough for me to sell this vehicle, so I’ll be free at last from my Chevy travails. And thanks to Ivan for another great video and highlighting the value of having a place to work that’s indoors, and having exactly the right tool for each job, knowing where those tools are in the shop, and how to use those tools to enable an on-time departure for a trip to scenic Staten Island.

I'm not a mechanic but I'm on my second 1998 Toyota Camry le 4cyl. The first I bought 2 and a half years ago was a great car but I got hit back in April this year and the car was totally destroyed so I bought me another one just like the first one same year same everything even had the same mileage 110 thousand miles and one of the things I checked on the second one is too see if the seal plug cap by the valve cover behind the bracket that holds the ignition coils was leaking, because my first 98 Camry was leaking from that area, so at first I didn't notice any leak but just a couple weeks ago it started leaking, so like I said I'm not a mechanic and I watched a couple of RU-vid videos on how to fix this issue, but I decided to use my own common sense, first I realized that this is a common problem with this cars and the reason it leaks over time at around 100 thousand miles is not because there's a problem with the cap seal, but because it was installed by the manufacturer with just a thin coat of silicone sealant that eventually wears out and develops a nasty leak it starts slow but if not fixed it can get pretty ugly, so what I did using my common sense I remove the fat air intake hose and the partially removed the throttle body so that I could have enough room to remove the bolt on the right corner that holds the ignition coils bracket to expose the seal cap so I just removed the excess silicone around the cap carefully and clean around that area with brake cleaner and then I applied permatex gasket maker silicone sealant the ultra black, I nicely applied it all around the seal cap enough of it but not too much just enough to know that no way oil was going to get through anymore and it worked perfectly on my first 98 Camry and is working perfectly on my second Camry, I got a flashlight and got under my car just last week to check if it was still leaking and it was completely dry what I did of course when I did the repair I cleaned all the oil residue that fell on the bottom of the engine block close to the transmission and I also cleaned all the hoses and ignition coils and everything completely dry is a lot easier than removing the cap, buying another one, I can't make a video on how I fixed it because I don't have the knowledge all the things that are needed to make videos, but if you can understand my writing I'm pretty sure it will make sense to you. Of course if the seal cap was broken or damaged I would have replaced it but it was perfectly fine on both cars just needed a little more silicone sealant . Oh also very important let the silicone sealant dry for about a half hour before you put everything back and if you can wait until the next day before you drive your car to let the silicone sealant dry ,plan ahead of time the whole job is only an hour and a half if you take your time like I did just keep track of everything you removed take pictures so you don't mess up when you start putting things back.

Glad you enjoyed it!

5S-FE was non-interference, no warning system required. 😉

Yup, almost happened to me too! Good advice

On a second watch of the video, it seems like the balancer is installed.

Stéphane Bernard you are correct, i mistakened the oil pump pulley for the crank pulley

I agree, but I dont think they are interference engines. Still not a great idea tho like u said

dang sorry to hear about that. I always put all the guides and balancer in place before firing it up :)

its war paint dear

My dog left me and my car died but da bitch ain't movin.

You forgot to add the part where she reminds him that he's been promising for the last 8 months to replace the wallpaper in the living room -- but that he's been repairing cars instead.

I would do the job still but making them clear about faults

I tell my customers go OEM for critical parts like the oil pump housing gasket, water pump, oil pump, tensioner, etc. I always tell them if you were the mechanic and put cheap Rockauto parts, etc., then it fails prematurely you have to redo what you did previously.

@@dc5723 There are good brands (including OEM) on Rockauto, and they can be substantially cheaper than what the dealer (or local NAPA/Advance/whatever) even after factoring in shipping. When my sister decided to listen to the dealer and they wanted to change the positive battery cable (read: wiring harness) on her 2011 F-150 that part was $260 from the local Ford dealer, never mind labor. $187 from Advance, still the Motorcraft part. Rockauto was $150 incl. shipping. Of course, the only thing wrong was the positive terminal being corroded (the lower "ring" was nothing but white powder left on the terminal when I removed it) and the battery, the latter of which was replaced under warranty from the dealer. One $15 terminal (part BT4Z-14450-AA) and a wiring repairing later and the truck was up and running again. But really, the main thing is don't buy a part just because it is the cheapest and your average customer doesn't know which brands to avoid like the plague (Dorman et al).

First Rockauto parts can be cheaper. They have no phone customer service. No expensive store front. No shareholders who want giant profits so they pass the savings to us. I have not had a Rock Auto mid or high range part fail yet. If you buy bottom end parts they will fail!

@@Strasedon Yes you are correct, I did buy Aisin and Denso parts from Rockauto.

Good luck!

I thought it was a crack pipe.

haha yeah same mileage as that 2001 with the EVAP problems...same color too!!

What's the difference? I have used green Preston many times on my Camry.

spelunkerd really? Doing all that work and not replacing the water pump? My money is on that water pump failing before the next 90k miles when the next timing belt is due given how old the car is.

It's always possible to screw anything up. But the only way to learn is to do it yourself 👍🙂

A little research on the internet will provide that sort of information for the amateurs.

John Ferguson you get just as many bad options as good

Hi Wyatt! TST in March...I hope to be there!

It's the customer who makes those decisions. All you can do as a mechanic is to tell the customer that you won't warranty cheap parts and then write that on the receipt.

John Ferguson PHAD didn’t say the customer declined it. But I agree with what you are saying. The risk is an overheated engine leading to head gasket failure.

Guess it wasn't really in the way...except for the camera shot haha

Yup non-interference = bulletproof :)

Just because an engine is non interference doesn’t make it bulletproof. The J and F series Honda engines are pretty bulletproof (which are interference). Just take regular maintenance. See them all the time with just as many miles as Toyota 5FS, 1MZ engines.

yes some of the green is very colorful and almost glow in the dark

thats funny I was thinking the same. Almost seems syrupy too.