Toyota Camry / Celica / RAV4 / Solara I4-5SFE - Oil Pump Housing & Shaft Seals Replacement 

Thanks for your comment and support!

@@hardlymovingpro NB nnhn no not ñhhuuhyyyujjhyu5yyy

instablaster...

Glad you enjoyed it!

Good for you!

@@hardlymovingpro actually the triangle on the spinning disc thing is supposed to go face down towards the pump/engine side. The other triangle on the shaft obviously faces upwards but is maybe supposed to point towards the other one from the opposite side. Makes absolutely no sense but I emailed Ivan (Pine Hollow Diagnostics) and he showed me the relevant technical spec picture showing what I described. We both cannot see how it could possibly make any difference and why not have the triangles on the same side, but that's Toyota for you!

@@robbflynn4325 You're right! Don't see how it makes a difference.

@@robbflynn4325 I wondered this. When I took the old pump off (3SGE) and also on a new pump I bought, the triangle on the driven rotor was facing inwards towards the engine. However the engine manual specifically states to place the triangle as shown in this video towards the outer cover. I've heard maybe the only time it matters is on a used pump to reinstall it the same way so any wear patterns match up.

Glad it helped!

Thanks for your comment and post!

You bet!

Thanks! More to come!

My pleasure!

Nope ... not at all. Like the water pump, nothing to align. Thanks for your comment and support!

Glad it helped

How’d it go?

@@fetiqe to be honest I haven't done it yet got the seals but I had to do a double knee replacement and the recovery has been a huge set back I've just returned to work it's something I plan to do before Christmas with my 1st year apprentice mechanic son ( Yippy I have a mechanic in the family) I'll keep you posted

Sounds like a plan. Good luck and stay healthy!

Yes. Flush to the outside the housing.

Don't think it's a time and effort saver.

If you let the RTV dry for around 12 hours, the RTV being squeezed internally should stay stuck to the housing. Otherwise, if it brakes off it'll get pickup by the oil filter and can't cause internal damage since its a soft rubber when it hardens. I wouldn't be too concerned about the triangle alignment. It helps with the remounting of the pump outer housing cover. The hard part is getting the base of the pump pulley shaft to seat inside the inner housing hole. Just keep keep rotating the pulley shaft while pushing against the outer housing. It'll eventually snap in place and there should be no gap between the outer and inner housing.

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you so much !!!!! Good luck

Yes. I've found that using RTV lasts longer than a replacement gasket for the housing. On Toyota's 2AG-FE I4 engine's water pumps, gaskets are no longer used. There's a groove inside the pump to accommodate the RTV.

Just remove the belt

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for your prompt response. I'm thinking to ask a local mobile mechanic to fix the leak if it costs less than $300, do you know how long it will roughly take?

Don't understand your question.

My understanding, with respect to the timing belt, bearings, seals, water and oil pump, the 3SFE is no different than the 5SFE.

The pump seal replacement should be part of a timing belt replacement job.

No ... it's not a OEM gasket. Using RTV does make the seal last longer.

@@hardlymovingpro OK thanks. I'm trying to avoid packing the gasket groove with mass amounts of RTV to keep the gasket in which I've seen some you tubers do but shouldn't be necessary looking at your video. Totally agree though with RTV on top side of housing.

Not really. You can gently pry the pump cover off with a small pry tool or screw driver. RTV is a sealant ... not a glue.

Probably won't have to come off for another 20 years anyway

Actually it's very easy to remove

Yup. That could mess up your day ... like "wait a second ... I just replaced the cam and crank seals ... why's there still oil leaking?".

Nope. The gasket seal hardens and looses its sealing properties.

It's either your timing belt tensioner or idler pulleys. I assume when the pump was fixed, the repair shop didn't replace any timing belt components? The noise is from worn bearings. It goes away as bearing grease starts to work their way into the bearings. Still needs to be replaced. If not replaced, the belt will eventually snap.

@@hardlymovingpro thank you very much for the information. Wow, I'll have it checked before I potentially become stranded.

@@mutalechanda4772 Stupid that the mechanic fixed the leak but didn't replace the timing belt and bearings. Would have added less than 15 minutes of labor time. Also belt replacement kits are around less than $100. I would have replaced the water pump too ... another 30 minutes of work. Maybe he just wants repeat repair business from you.

my light just came on but it’s only around idle and shuts off pretty quick

Also check your voltage output via a voltage plug in adapter.

Not if it's thoroughly dry before starting the engine.

I use to think the arrows needed aligning but don't think it matters anymore.

@@hardlymovingpro I checked with the local engine reconditioners here and they informed me that the arrows don't need to be aligned on the driven rotor. Must be some type of factory instalment indicator. The driven rotor measures the same all around the lobes

Makes sense.

@@hardlymovingpro one last thing. Iv installed new Pistons and rings aswel as a brandnew head. What oil do you recommend to break in engine

Conventional (non synthetic) for the first 3000 miles or oil change. And also change out just the oil filter after first 500 miles.

Don't recall but I do believe it goes through the oil pump housing through to the engine block. Once you get the housing off, there should be enough of the bolt stud remaining to use a stud removal tool.

@@hardlymovingpro The idler bolt screws in adjacent to the upper corner of the oil pump in the direction of the front of the car. Look at a good picture of the housing (The Ebay ads have good pictures) and you will see near the top of the housing or cover a little round iron thing. This is where the idler bolt screws in. If the idler bolt breaks, and that's what I'm dealing with right now, you can pop out the little iron thing with a screwdriver or chisel point and extract the broken bolt. It is supposed to pop back in. If it doesn't go in tight, I'll just have to go to the wrecking yard and get another cover one off of an old Toyota. My plan is to use some red stuff to hold it in. I'm not going to pull the cover if I can help it. My thought is, if you have to swap the cover, if the original gasket it damaged, cut it away and replace the front part with silicon. Good silicon. I can't say what kind. I'm not going to research it unless I have to do it. Be ready to dismount the pickup tube if you have to R&R the cover. I'm convinced the idler bolt broke because whoever changed the timing belt did not torque it properly. I can see how either over or under torque could make it break. The whole thing is a mess of over- and under- torqued bolts. The crankshaft pulley was way overtorqued, maybe 150 foot-pounds or more compared to the necessary 80 foot-pounds. The water pump bolts were loose and the water pump was leaking because of that. It had new parts. I'm going to change all the seals and gaskets though. And torque every bolt correctly. If the job is done completely and correctly and good parts are used, having any problems with the water pump, oil leaks, the idler or tensioner, or the belt itself are very unlikely even at 100,000 miles. The Gates guide gives the timing belt interval at 90K miles for the 2.2L Camry and 100K miles for the 2.2L Solara. I don't quite get it. Same engine.

The belt service interval can vary based on the quality of the tensioner and idler pulleys. It's not that the belt goes bad but rather the bearings. Worn bearings wobble eventually stressing the belt and causing it to snap. Also too much slack in the belt after belt replacement can snap the belt. Your sheared bolt was most likely caused by the bolt being cross threaded in with high torque.

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks. Well the car has been fixed I had to get an aluminum welder to remove the sheered bolt from the engine block. That was a pain in the ass. Then went to a toyota dealer for all new parts

@@hardlymovingpro I'm dealing with a broken idler pulley bolt right now. I suspect the cause was either overtorque or undertorque. I can see either one causing the bolt to break. I've worked on two 2.2L Camry. I don't think it is possible to cross thread the idler or tensioner bolt. You start them by hand. The whole timing belt system is a mess of under- and over- torqued bolts. The parts themselves are good as far as I can tell.

Yes.

Yes ... the engine designation is 5SFE or 3SFE

I don't believe the arrow alignment is a problem. Try tightening the 10mm bolts on the oil pan. They get loose with age as the pan gasket shrinks.

@@hardlymovingpro Fortunately, I haven't yet removed the pan, I have just came home from work so thanks for the tip. I will first get a nap and will tight them later. I am concerned however about the hidden bolts under "above" the exhausting pipe, for I don't think I would be able to reach those, but I will try anyways. All in all, thank you so much for all the information you provide and I wish you a good evening.

You bet!

Line

Believe some don't have it but not that concerning. The hard part is getting the base of the pump pulley shaft to seat inside the inner housing hole. Just keep keep rotating the pulley shaft while pushing against the outer housing. It'll eventually snap in place and there should be no gap between the outer and inner housing.

Not at all.

@@hardlymovingpro thanks! doing this today 👍

Completely different.

@@hardlymovingproWould you please tell me if you have the video of Toyota V6 (oil pump replacement)?

I never replaced a V6 1MZ-FE engine oil pump. Quite involved. Start by replacing the oil pressure sensor. That may be sending a false signal.

No timing marks on the oil pump for mounting the timing belt

No ... you don't have to drop the oil pan. The oil pan is not bolted to the oil pump cover. A new oil pump is not slightly more than the oil pump gasket and seals (around $10 vs $100 +). But if you do want to drop the oil pan, you'll have to remove the exhaust down pipe as well to get the clearance. And if you want to remove the down pipe, get ready to remove exhaust flange bolts that are rusted and will need to be replaced. Also, this video is an addendum to a timing belt replacement.

To reduce friction during installation. Dielectric grease is also called silicone and plumber's grease. It will not allow rubber components to swell like petroleum based grease, stays on the contact surface for a long time and provides a barrier to electrical flow.