I feel like I just stumbled upon a treasure trove of valuable information....(Kind of like having a marine mechanic at my beck and call). This is exactly what I need for my dual OMCs...Thanks for putting these awesome videos together Michael!!! keep up the great work... Wayne
Michael, My first time owning an inboard stern drive motor, which is a Volvo Penta 200G model. Really appreciate and wish to thank you for taking the time in making and uploading your videos as I will be servicing this unit myself from top to bottom....now with a bit more confidence! Cheers
Thank you so much for your comments. I have an entire Volvo Penta series coming up soon that will really catch your interest. Stay tuned and don't forget to subscribe!
Awesome videos! I did the stern drive, bellows, gaskets, etc. Literally, my first time working on a boat, this in depth. You had a bit if an easy time getting the OD back on, whereas, I had a tough time. My OD practically slid off once I took the nuts off, though. Haha. Thank you, so much!!
Perfect! Thanks for taking the time to share your feedback! Subscribe to my channel. I literally show how-to rebuild everything and if I miss something, I just make a video about it. Thanks again!
very good videos...I put a 5/8 plywood n a car jack on floor.....plus on a 10 inches long 2x4 i did a groove with my circular saw to fit the fin to hold the lower unit......lower the end of the trailer to gain room for my jack.....pum...done
Michael you made that look easy, I got the spline alignment tool going in and out really easy but getting that sucker in has tested my patience. Using the same strap trick that you're doing I can get it close but no cigar. I've watched your video so much I found where you made that splice, but I'm not giving up, Northern California to got lots of water!
I hope you got it installed and if you didn’t the reason is the engine isn’t aligned. Check out this video. I recommend aligning the motor every time the stern is off. When the motor is aligned, it goes back in quickly. OMC Cobra Volvo Penta SX Engine Alignment Procedure ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HGQ0d111dLw.html please subscribe!
Hello Michael, I am trying to remove the outdrive of my 96 Reinell 3.0 penta with SX cobra drive and I can not get it to budge off the housing. Almost like the water oxidized and welded it? any advice? Also, the only reason I am removing the engine is to get to a starter bolt that the previous owner broke off in the block. Is that my only option?
So the problem I'm having is the routing of the shift cable tube/hose. My cable was disconnected at the top when I got it. The hose is running out between the bellhousing and the transom assembly, then straight up beside the bellhousing and y pipe. Everyone says it should be behind the steering ram but in order for that to happen it would have to make a sharp S turn . My transom is flat so the steering ram is close to transom. I don't know how they would have gotten it out from behind the ram without removing it and it doesn't look like its been disconnected. Does it sound right that it should take an S turn after the bellhousing? My motor is a 4.3 v6.
Do you have any suggestions about the plastic "scuff plates" that sit between the outdrive and the trim actuators? Mine are pretty burnt out and there is plenty of play to allow water to get in at those points. Is this normal? Or should this be a watertight seal?
Hi Michael, my outdrive looks more like the one in your video of when you replace your prop with the SS 4 blade Power Tech Prop. My engine isn't carburated, it has the multi port fuel injection. It has the throttle body on the port side which connects to a big aluminum intake plenum that pretty much covers the whole top of the engine. Being that it's a 1994 I can't find very much info on it, as far as it being hard to start when it's at running temperature I'm at a loss. It immediately starts up when it's cold, & runs great, but acts like it's flooded when I start it after its at temp. It will always eventually fire up but it takes a couple attempts first. I've looked all over the boating forums but the problem I'm finding is that the '94 is somewhat of a rare engine. I can send you some photos of the engine so you can see exactly what I've got, & even email you a video of what I'm talking about when I take it back out next week. my email is - I've had a couple close calls when this thing is not wanting to start, so I need to address it, other than the starting issue it's a great little boat. I've called all the local Marine shops, but they've all been booked solid for the whole summer. We had an unusual early twelve degree freeze on October, 10 last year which caught quite a few boat owners off guard, plus with the Coronavirus everyone wants to get out, so the shops around here are basically fixing boats for next year. any suggestions you have are greatly appreciated, & again I thank you for your videos!
Keep in mind even though this isn’t carbureted you should still look into Spark plugs, wires, You should look at getting some throttle body cleaner. You also need to double check to make sure you’re getting the correct amount of fuel pressure at all times. What you need to remember through all this, is what it takes to start your motor. Fuel and spark must be thoroughly checked. To keep you from getting stranded, I recommend letting the boat idle in your driveway for some time and try to duplicate this issue without being on the water.
On my sx drive there is a clogged water intake. With full water pressure on ear muffs no water comes out where hose connects inside engine compartment to oil cooler. What is strange is water can flow opposite direction (from engine out to water inlets ) Does the lower unit need to be removed to fix this?. I have had this boat 23 years so may not hurt to drop it but if there is a way to clean it I would like to try. Thanks
Those are some nice blue nails you have man! Lol just kidding. You do a great job with your videos. You help more people than you know. I’m one of them.
Micheal, I have a comment / question.... I used the alignment tool you recommended, and am able to spin it inside the bearing effortlessly with 2 fingers after raising the engine slightly as you showed how to do in your other video. The tool sets all the way into coupler, and the splines of the coupler leave an even witness mark in the grease when I remove it. The engine starts fine, i let it warm up, then i begin to turn the wheel to test the assembly, and after about 3/4 turn of the wheel I start to hear a disturbing CLUNK, CLUNK, CLUNK, CLUNK, CLUNK until i bring the wheel back to the straight position. When I removed the sterndrive initially one year ago, I had no issues with the universal joints that I know of, and pumped grease through every fitting I can find. What does this issue sound like to you? Universal joints? Engine alignment? Sterndrive took a dump? Details: Re powered 1988 5.7 OMC Cobra Seaswirl to a 1996 Vortec 5.7 Same flywheel, coupler, sterndrive from previous setup. Thank you for your time. -RC
Randall--This seems like a u-joint problem. Reasoning: Like a drive shaft in a car, they control the power at various angles. The stern drive's upper unit could have a bad bearing but that is a stretch. Check out this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-svuUL4pI35Y.html , Fast forward to 6 min 45 seconds
What is the big gasket you have around the frontal area of the transom? My SX-M 1.66 has none and it is really dirty from growth of algea. Obviously without a seal the crack between the drive and the transom will allow water to seep through no matter how much you tighten the bolts..It seems the only thing keeping water from seeping throught to the bellow and subsequently the gimbal would be the grease you put around the part were the shaft is attached to the drive. Wish I could add a picture in the comment to show you the dirt.
Hey that is an OMC thing. If you have a Volvo, they did away with the gasket you are concerned with in ~1994. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-svuUL4pI35Y.html
Hello Michael, I think that I've watched the outdrive removal & installation videos at least a dozen times, I know I have to do it,but it still seems so intimidating. I even have the five volume mechanics set for the OMC/Volvo Penta. I own a 1994 Four Winns Horizon 180 with the 5.0 liter Ford that I bought for an outstanding price last year, but I'm now realizing now why the seller was negotiable. I'm pretty certain that there has never been a tune up o this boat its whole life. I decided to do a full tune up on this baby I changed the fuel/water separator, new distributor cap, new rotor, belts, four blade prop, new blue Sierra Magforce plugwires which dropped the continuity from about 9.87 to 1.93 ohms! It's never run so well since I've had it. I wanted to ask if you know if there is an inline fuel filter between the tank & the pump? Possibly under the floor where the tank is, it runs great, I can do 45 at 4800rpm's wide open. sometimes it acts like it's flooded when I go to start it up after getting up to temperature. one more question was how did you end up liking that SE 300 that you put on your Volvo Penta? I was going to buy that same hydrofoil. Thank you very much for all the great videos, & advice, I know my boat wouldn't be running this well if not for discovering your videos!
The SE300 is a must. It’s worth it! To fix the flooding issue, watch this videoru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vQar_UJk1gs.html There is no fuel filter other than what you mentioned, you might want to replace your anti-siphon valve too.
Does your outdrive look like the one in the video? If not, I have the exact one you have on another video series. 1994 should be a different style outdrive.
Excellent video! Just discovered after getting mine out of winter storage here in the Northeast that the upper gear housing has a crack just underneath the middle bolt on the starboard side. Can't tell if that are needs to be watertight from the transom:upper housing seal backwards. You've had a similar unit apart, so do you think this is fatal? New unit, try to TIG weld, or just silicone it? Any advice appreciated.
If you stern drive looks like the one in the picture, it must be water tight, and you need to TIG weld it. Buying the machine from Harbor Freight and learning how to use it in you tube might be cheaper than taking it to someone. Yes, some would charge you 400 plus to fix that crack.
@@michaelromer2016 Update: an awesome local shop TIG welded mine (2005 SX-M unit) for $32. Your videos were invaluable for getting it all apart and will be for getting it back together. The 3-year old gimbal bearing came out with the drive though. Housing looks great with no cracks or evidence of spinning (I see the lateral marks from the bearing's ribbing on edge) so don't know why. New oil seal and gimbal bearing install this weekend. In case new one fits loose, do you recommend aluminum foil shimming under the ribbed edge?
@Michael Romer Update 5/18: Got the upper gear unit housing welded and painted (I left the weld bead fat for strength instead of grinding flat, plus it's a war scar!). Replaced rear oil seal, gimbal bearing (did these with three-pronged slide hammer; drove in oil seal with bearing set tool and drive in gimbal bearing with a 3" PVC male end cap). Replaced U-joint bellows, water hose gaskets, checked engine alignment with a tool bought just for this after religiously following your advice. The stern drive went back on with no problem. Boat runs and shifts beautifully with no odd bearing or other noises. It's been in the water at the mooring for a couple days still floating! Thank you so much for your videos. Saved me close to $6-10K, which is what shops here were quoting for new or refurbed upper unit. No boat shop up here in VT would touch the welding job- I ended up having a general metal fabrication shop do the welding. Plus I got to do a bunch of maintenance - last shop charged $1000 for replacing gimbal bearing and bellows 3 years ago. BOAT really does stand for Bust Out Another Thousand!
Michael,where can I get the alignment tool? Can I make one? And what are you looking for? was hoping you could explain that to me a little better.Thanks again, Great Videos!!
Thanks for your comments! www.ebay.com/itm/Alignment-Gimbal-Seal-Tool-Set-Mercruiser-Alpha-OMC-Bravo/183195875640?hash=item2aa7533938:g:2NUAAOSwzvtcd~88
Trying to get my stern drive back on and it will go all but the last inch. The splines feel aligned as the shaft stops, and then with a twist it sinks in. But then an inch from home it just hangs up. Any ideas?
Hi Michael, I am having a similar issue to another poster here. When putting it in, the joints seem to go in all but just an inch or so. Not sure why. I followed your alignment video and mine is perfectly fine, but I am still struggling to get it past the last notch on the joint. Any ideas?
@@michaelromer2016 i have and they have all been great videos. I was able to do my gimbal (slightly different than yours) and bellows. Those were hard jobs but it was also my first time. I'm a 1st time boat owner lol
Hi Michael I have a 1994 Volvo Penta SX outdrive and was wondering if I can swap it with a Volvo Penta DP with the same ratio? I have seen several units for sale for only a couple thousand.
I don’t recommend that only because the extra thrust can be delivered with more horsepower or a different prop. Boats made for a DP are purpose driven and I wouldn’t convert it unless you got a really good reason.
BRP is going to be the best, Marine Pro is second best. Johnson Evinrude BRP Gasket Sealing Compound 0508235 www.amazon.com/dp/B001KYDE2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U8xqCbX98BG28
You seem to have cut out a portion. I'm reinstalling my outdrive and am fighting with the u joint getting past the bellows seal. How the crap did you do it? I'm fighting with it. I have an omc cobra 2.3l. Any advice?
@michaelromer2016 thanks so much for that. I did t even consider that. I checked out your alignment video. Blessings to you for such a great video. And I love that you had your helper 12 year old. I learned so much from my dad growing up, just holding the flashlight for him. Because of that, I have no fear in rebuilding my engines. Boats are a different story. My dad's my hero, and you will be to your daughter. God bless you, child.
I watched all your videos just bought a chaparral 200LE 5.0 Volvo and I want to go thru the out drive at the end of the season not sure what’s been serviced, I know basic maintenance has been done to it The one thing I didn’t see was the removal of the bellows? And reinstall? I have seen them do it on mercury outdrives...was wondering if you had a video on that? Boat runs good everything seems sound, going to use your RU-vid page as a guide as well as following my manual..... Besides replacing the bellows and most likely changing the the bearing (since I’m already in there) what else should I plan for? Thank you
Bellows and the gimbal bearing are the 2 main ones. You want to then focus on the upper unit from there. That includes checking the u-joints for excessive play. Grease them too if they have zerk fittings on the u-joints. Check the upper unit output seal for oil leaking, if you see oil leaking (I'd tear up a little) because it is a pain to replace that seal. It's the part that connects the u-joints to the actual upper unit case (where it says Volvo Penta). Also drain the lower unit and check for an oil/water mixture. If you see it. Hope it is just the bearing carrier seals that are leaking (and replace the seals). Those are the easy things to look for right now. Hit me up if you need further help.
Those blue acrylic nails threw me for a sec. I was like, "Hey! Whatever hes into I don't care as he makes very useful videos for us boat owners." But, then I realized from other videos of his that I watched, his helper is a female. Okay, back to the show.
I agree. I was just talking about that the other day where I was gonna get a different style 5/8 socket that doesn’t operate exactly like what you are watching in the video. I have found that whatever torque it is, it is within specs because year after year there are no leaks in the upper bellow.
@@michaelromer2016 Your doing better than I am then. Every year I have to replace my shift cable. Because I go in salt water. And it always finds it's way in to my cable. Salt water makes everything harder. But that's where the fish are😀
Awesome video, exactly what I'm looking for... Just one question.. do I need blue nail polish on my finger nails to use the alignment tool correctly?? Not judging, just asking for a friend lol
