Opel/Vauxhall Insignia Timing Belt Replacement 

You are correct. This tensioner was incorrectly installed.

Yes it should. The example given in the video (three times!) is incorrect.

Does this also apply to the A20DTE engine? I was planning on perform a cam belt replacement on my friends car this weekend with 148000km on it and just now have seen your comment and I am not sure what to do.

@@sinaniii Unfortunately these issues persist with all the A20 series engines, from 2008 all the way up to 2017!

Thank you for a quick response! I’m probably gonna change it, only issue I’m having is how I’m gonna torque the bolt to spec. My torque wrench only goes up to 350nm/260lb/ft..

@@sinaniii That is probably the hardest part! I advise that you first get hold of a locking tool for the crank. You will be putting a hell of a pull on so make sure you have it locked up properly. There are two ways to do it but both are tricky while the engine is in the vehicle due to access. First way is to remove the starter motor and fit a toothed type locking tool onto the ring gear. The second method is to make or buy a tool that will fit over the toothed timing belt drive sprocket that you hold in place using the four bolts that hold the drive belt pulley on. You will then need to find a big long piece of pipe to slide over the tool so that you can counter the rotation while undoing the main bolt at the center, which as mentioned is left hand thread. Undoing the crank bolt is an achievement in itself, they are usually extremely tight after they've been on a while. You need a good powerful impact wrench ideally, or a 3/4" socket set and a long sturdy piece of steel pipe, but you'll need the car up on a proper car ramp if you try to do it like that so you can get a swing on it. You'll be amazed how spring there is in everything when you start putting that much pull on it! 😁. Impact wrench wise I've found that the DeWalt DCF900 will usually takes them out (not always) , whereas my Aircat 1250k fails most of the time. Both of these guns were at one time the most powerful 1/2" guns available! Torquing the bolt down is another thing. By rights you need a proper torque wrench, but finding one that will work on left hand threads at that spec is tricky. You can buy digital ones that you use with a big breaker bar that work both directions, but they are a bit pricey. I'm lucky in that I have the use of a big snap on digital torque wrench that's for doing truck wheel nuts at the local garage, but I have done these crank bolts without a torque wrench at all in the past and they've been fine. The bolt itself is a very fine thread, so feels a bit slow to start taking a load, but eventually you can tell when it's getting to where it needs to be, it will suddenly just bite down and become very hard to torque down any further. If you really want to make sure just put a dab of the weaker locktite on it, but do make sure it's torqued down enough or after a while the sprocket can start to move and eventually snap the moulded keyway, possibly killing the engine. Best of luck anyway. Regards

@@Altair885man you are a legend! Thank you so much for the precise explanation and quick response. Best regards!

Those metal gaskets have been hit and miss for me in the past on the 1.8 tdci, an absolute ballache to redo.

Did you find out if you overtightened it? I seen the exact same thing that it’s meant to go up to the middle of the hole

@@KamilJan95s Hi, no, I'm still not sure, no-one got back to me. I've also looked in the Haynes manual which also isn't very clear. It just says, "move the adjusting lever on the tensioner until the tensioner pointer is aligned with the mark on the backplate." A bit vague, but I'm guessing that the mark is the little hole. Hope this helps you.

@@stephenclark5941 another RU-vidr got back to me and said autodata says you tension it to the little dot. So I believe you did it the right way

@@KamilJan95s That's good news. Thanks for your interest and help. Thankyou.

@@tobiascat6173 good to know thanks one more pointless over engineered idea to deal with as usual 😉👍

Hi did you get yours timed properly as i have same problem, not sure if crank pully is 180 degrees out , not sure fuel pump needs to be timed, can you give me any advise many thanks

@@lukemcilroy5851 I still let the master set everything up. but the timing kit I bought was rusted. the crank must be screwed in place first and then the cams. otherwise, if the piston is up, the valve cannot move. There is also a locking rod for the fuel pump, turn it until it clicks. it is also worth looking for old marks made in the past.

Yes the engine has OEM marks for all pulleys.

hahahahahahah

@@bodgitandleggitgarage its a great engine block also used in Saab 9-5, Alfa Romeos, Fiats, Suzukis and others

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂