Hey, Kyle, thanks for the series. You're the one that got me into recreational long range setups. I've pretty much learned everything I know from watching your stuff the last couple years. Keep doing what you do!
Joe’s a buddy of mine. When he told me to check out your videos, I had to. I’m glad I did, I’ve now watched all of them in the series and think they’re great. You’ve included a plethora of valuable information that many will find very useful. Not only was the content great but so was the production. Great job! Stoti
Greetings Dear One Your series is very informative also helpful when checking One is using the correct data related to scopes. You said that you could not see why some manufactures use Blue colours for the reticule instead of the usual green which we all know the human eye is bias to green light due to the way human eye works, red for low light and night vision. Blue light which the human eye can resolve (as some humans are capable of seeing near ultraviolet light as well as near infra red light which is incredible.) One of the main reasons for the blue light is you actually said part of the true answer without clicking and putting it together as you said the second part a little later which really made One smile and ponder will you put it together? One will tell you both parts: 1. Correct Some manufactures do use as a gimmick to sell a scope usually theirs some other colours, as we refer to them as rainbow don't touch it you'll have a bad day! 2. Some manufacture actually use the blue light for those who have a colour blindness issue as red appears black yet the eye is unable to resolve this in high contrast conditions, because red is low light and in high contrast the iris will stop down to minimum light entry you can no longer resolve red light, though greens may be seen by some with a squint that makes your view blurred similar to camera vignette and can also suffer the halo effects making what your eye is trying to resolve confusing to the brain. Blue light can appear as deep black to some with colour blindness, and can also be resolved as the eye sees high intensity blue in the high contrast light the black appears as a deep ink black which the eye resolves and the brain understands what is presented to it. 3. Some manufactures use Blue light as an alternate, it relates primarily to as you said strong high contrast condition including high glare as listed above and your iris is at or near to minimum F stop for allowing light entry to the retina, thus you wouldn't be able to correctly focus as your eye is fighting its self against the bright high contrast or glare, you'll loose red and green light in these conditions. The reticule even standard black will become indistinguishable the eye is working in a range not suited to it and you momentarily are blinded this used to be a major issue with front line fighter pilots, though not in todays tech word of theatre of engagement. This is why Blue is used as you also rightly said your iris will be at its smallest minimum F stop to reduce bright light entering the eye, Blue light causes the iris to stop down to minimum light entry thus, in bright glare switching to blue your eye will resolve the information presented the target is in focus and the reticule is also in focus, your eye is not fighting its self to see a light colour or low black in bright high contrast and glare conditions. One hopes this helps all understand. Thank-you for doing a great series on scopes as this will be helpful to all. blessing Love and Light -Namaste
You Really Do explain How these different scopes are made and How they work and what WE need to do to make ém do what they should do to work correctly, and I Thank You.
One thing I havent heard you talk much about, or seen on your bench is the kind of long range precision hunting scopes that have a capped windage turret to save some weight and bulk and a locking with zero stop elevation turret. I like ones where they make that top turret kind of a medium height for that purpose, think cous deer or pronghorn or cross canyon sheep/goat or maybe elk hunting, Western long deer hunting basically.
Reason for bringing that up is I'm watching this series trying to find my ideal scope for a SA 2020 Waypoint with the nonadjusting stock and 22" 6.5 creed carbon fiber barreled rifle. Don't plan on hunting elk with it, I'd prefer some sort of magnum, but I do want to chase all the other aformentioned species in my previous comment. I'd like a 30mm tube 42-50 objective something with 3-15 or as low as 2x up to as high as 18-22x but definitely no higher than 3.6 on the low end. I want an FFP that doesn't have a Christmas tree or at least a more simple Christmas tree that doesn't clutter up the view too bad, but that I can dial my elevation and then hold for windage with some moa or mil hashes along the horizontal crosshair. Id really like to keep the weight down below the 25 oz or even less, wouldn't mind some illumation, but not a deal breaker either way. Edit: I should mention why I want to favor the low end being below 4x. I live in SoCal and will be doing a lot of shortish to medium range mile deer hunting with it as well. But have family in AZ who take cous every year and family in Utah, Colorado and Idaho I hunt with as well. I want to be able to take the rifle on all those hunts unless we're after elk. Also I want a high end of at least 12-14. I found a 2.5-15 lots of 3-15, some 3-18 scopes and a 3.6-18. I've seen 4 or 4.5 to 16 or 20 or 22 but I really don't want 4x if I have a 40-75 yard shot on a small SoCal muley, they(SoCal mule deer) tend to be more similar in size to most blacktails than other mules or whitetails.
Im typically hunting with a rifle in the winter....in Western NY....so any and all adjustments are done with gloves....i demand smooth and easy movement of my scope adjustments. Most of my scopes are very easy to move...but not so easy it would move just by moving around or touching. And like i posted before...I love the red little lit up reticle.....makes it so much easier for my middle aged eyes.
Not sure if it would be an issue on YT, but I would (along with others) appreciate your knowledge on basics of reloading. I recently started to get into loading my own for more consistent results, but haven't gotten past the part of acquiring components. There is a lot of information to get down first, what dies do what, etc. etc.
I’ve killed a few scopes erector sets which is your elevation and windage adjustments inside the scope with a Benjamin nitro piston 2 22 caliber pellet rifle it has wicked double recoil. Hammers brand pellet rifle scopes seem to be the only ones that will live and last LOL
I have a bushnell banner with that parallax adjustment on the front objective lens its a 6-18X50 and the adjustment goes from 10 yards to 400 yards before it goes to infinity
@@SocialRegressive well I still have it after twenty years and it still works fine but my eyes have gotten worse in that time , I mainly use it for target shooting but it's on a hunting rifle that I can't use for hunting where I live , have to use a shotgun here for deer hunting.
Could you do a video ( or videos) of how to do MOA calculations to be able to find the distance to a given target based on dope. I see plenty of videos on how to do this, but it would be a good video i think to make with actual examples of doing it.
This question has never been answered by other videos. Looking at a 100 yd target and using a 3x9 scope and using 3 power does that mean your looking at 1/3 the distance through the scope? Using 9 power it would look like 11 yds though the scope?
Sort-of. The target will have that size in your eye, but the image will be "crushed." It becomes difficult to distinguish distances to other objects in your field of view. Consider this: If you are using your naked eye to view two equal-size objects - one at 25 yards and one at 50 yards - the 25-yard target will appear half the size of the other and you will see a big difference in apparent position. If you look through a 3x scope or camera lens at those two same objects at 75 and 100 yards, they will seem more similar in size, and it will be tricky to figure out how far away from each other they are.
Question: My scope has holdover lines set for a specific magnification. The scope should be zeroed at 200yrs in order to use the holdovers as each progressively is then 300 400 500 yrds. Would it be the same if I zero at 100yrds and dial to 200 yrds then use the holdovers?
I've got an Athalon Argos BTR gen (2) its sits on a 20 MOA rail and I'm having to hold 3 mils high for 100 yards zero my rings are at 1" high and I cannot adjust my elevation turret any further to meet the point of impact. would you recommend shimming or adjusting my rail height? or is there a magical locking mechanism i am missing that could further my adjustment?
Just to make sure I know what's going on, is this what's happening? Your elevation turret is spun as far as it will go clockwise, and your bullets are still printing 3 mils below the bullseye at 100 yards?
@@SocialRegressive sorry let me clean up the verbiage/scenario a bit. while aiming at the 1" bullseye at 100 yards my windage is bang on in line with the bullseye but it will impact 3 mils above said bullseye. so I went wow that's pretty impressive only a few clicks to bring the elevation & windage in for my zero? should be a cakewalk. (goes to turn the turret to bring the reticle up to the point of impact) hmm, strange won't budge?! so I tried a few things.. checked to see if it was locked or stuck but it looks like I'm maxed out on it which is strange to me as I've always had more problems not being able to bring the crosshairs down enough .. now I have the opposite issue XD
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF FOR A WINCHESTER 70 RIFLE THIS RIFLESCOPE WOULD HOLD THE ENERGY FOR MAXIMUM SHOOTS OF 700 YARDS . RIFLE IN THE .300 WIN MAG CALIBER OR SUGGEST THIS (Leica Magnus 1.5-10x42 i L-Ballistic BDC SFP)
You have a lot of good options. If you're looking for the traditional 3-9x40, you can find the Riton and Bushnell Prime in that price range. I'm a fan of both. Lots of light, good image.
This is totally off topic but you speak well, if you pay attention people speaking tend to say "uh" a lot when explaining things, It's just weird things I notice
