Orange Adventures (Part 1) 

@@HexiBase try to make it as simple and cheap as you can by the way...

@@nunayafb 😂

love to see one as awell

I would love to see a 10 inch sub 3d printed

@@steweyj6281 12 inch and up. 10 not good for home theater.

Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼

This sounds like it could unmix even while it's printing hours long?

REDxFROG up & down motions into the liquid resin of the cured part will mix it again

@@HexiBase I know u tested it yourself but I think its a good representation

I was just about to comment this, it would make a great video

It's called Hexibase. You can purchase it at Nowhere On Earth.

@@supersteveenglish7340 you're very clever bro and very very funny you should be a comedian

@@braddsouza4 it's his own software. Constantly improving. It's unbelievable what he can do with it & how much he can account for.

HornResp is the best free enclosure sim....this guy has no software to sim the his line

For best results do this before post curing the model

Also, you can verify your parallelism of the build platform to the glass using a feeler using a 0.1mm feeler gauge. If you don't have the feeler gauge then you can still get away with the paper. You want to feel equal tension at all four corners of the build platform when you are setting home. You don't want it just sitting on the paper and tightening the bolts, you want to ensure the paper is under tension. However, you don't want the tension so tight you can't remove the paper. The tension should be, hard to describe other than, firm. You should be able to pull the paper without tearing it while still having resistance from the build platform. This tension should be equal at all four corners so you may need to adjust, then readjust the tensions. Too loose of a tension and the material won't cure to the platform / layer, and too tight of tension and you will start compressing layers, not allowing adequate material, overcuring, and possible damage to the film in the bottom of the basement (vat, reservoir, etc.). Once the film is punctured it needs to be replaced. This is also why you MUST make sure you clean the build platform completely before and after printing. I would try rotating the part on the build platform if there is ample room so it prints corner to corner to try getting it away from the outer edges of the build envelope. Also, all those supports are overkill. The supports between the build platform and part are ample for holding and supporting the part. The only place supports would be needed are coming down to support the leading edge of interior walls. Generally any less than a 30° angle does not need supports. But if you visualize the leading edge of the interior wall you'll see there's nothing above it to support it so you do need those supports.

Also, with the orientation of the part, the photopolymer will have a tendency to puddle and this could be whats causing problems on the bottom of the print. Perhaps printing the part on a slight angle to help drain material while printing and avoid large flat surfaces could work. Also try *slightly* increasing the exposure times per layer. Perhaps flipping it 180° and printing the flat edge first would be a good solution at well.

try at least a 10 -15 degree shift so that the flat surfaces are not parallel to the build platform. also consider making sure the printer resin is warm, so it flows well between layers, if its cold in garage, put space heater , or move to ventilated bathroom.

Egh I'll stick with my thermoplastic printers LOL Between the small build area, toxic liquid resin, cleanup, temperature requirements and additional curing, it sounds like way to much hassle! Lol 😉

@@smartroadbiker As he pointed out, resin printers are better for things when you need insanely tiny details to show. He mentioned D&D mini's and those are usually around 28mm-32mm tall and have not really been all that great when printed with plastic printers. That's why having both types isn't a bad idea, especially as they are getting more affordable. Using tabletop gaming as an example, you use resin printers to print the miniatures, while plastic printers print the terrain. Depending on the level of detail needed, vehicles could be a combination of the two where plastic is used for the bulk of the model, but has resin bits for the more detailed spots.

@@HexiBase got a question. For a T-line is it better to have the port closet or farther away from the driver? It was my understanding that you want it as close as possible. However in a diy speaker group I am in. A few guys said that it is better to have the port as separated as possible.