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Well, now I can tell my landlord why we need a plumber to fix our wall hydrant 😅 so this video helped a ton, and possibly saved my arse from "accidental property damage " 😂❤
Thanks for posting, I have no access to the interior connection without cutting the wall so hoping they included that service extension so I can do the job from exterior only!
I hope so too! If you have to cut the wall to replace, most hardware stores sell a handy spring-fit access panel. Such as: www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Click-Fit-8-in-x-8-in-Plastic-Access-Panel-AP-0808/203763985 Good luck on your repair!
I've noticed that the vacuum breaker also serves another purpose. Rather than unhooking my hose when freezing weather comes, I can leave the end of the hose open and the vacuum breaker allows the water to flow out of the hose and protect from having the water stay in the frost free hydrant. Do you see it this way?
My backyard anti-siphon freeze proof spigot, kitchen sink cold water and dishwasher cold water have the same cold water line / pipe. Recently, the spigot does not deliver water at the same pressure or amount of water as before. I replaced the stem but the problem is still exists. I used a steel wire from a hanger to check the inside of the sillcock and there is a valve at the end of the sillcock which opens when the water is shut off but when the water is turned on again, it closes and blocks water coming out even though the stem is removed from the sillcock. Have you seen any installation configuration like this? Your reply is greatly appreciated.
Anyone know if male threads are tapered on the hose bibs? No matter how much teflon I'm using I cannot get it to seal up without a small leak. The threads aren't stripped. In a terrible spot in a crawlspace of course.
How do you secure the bib to masonry when the screw slots don't line up with a competent foundation; i.e. a portion that was previously drilled out? Do you recommend mounting plates for this situation?
I would probably use concrete anchors if possible. In some scenarios where I didn't have enough backing to hold the hose bib in place, I added a sanded, pressure treated wood block with PL premium to the wall and then secured to that. To be honest I've never used a mounting plate but if that is going to work, you could go with that method too.
Thank you Dave. It was an exterior sealant matched to the color of the house (Dynaflex 230). It just helps with any water that might get behind the hose reel and run down the threads of the screw.
Started watching a lot of your vids super helpful! Is there away to install a shorter frost proof wall hydrant? I am about to install a shut off valve but would like a back up. (I live up North.)
Thank you Balkeor, They sell frost proof hydrants in different lengths if needed. I've seen 4", 8", 10", 12"(most common), and 18". The important factor is that the end/shutoff of the wall hydrant is within the warm side of the home. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Very good idea to leave a loop inside, especially if access to this pipe becomes impossible after finishing the basement. This configuration should be part of the construction code.
Unfortunately there's no rule of thumb, as some threads will thread more than others. It is more down to feel on how tight it is (I know this is a poor answer, hah). It's usually around a turn or 2 past hand tight.
@@PROSDIY That I actually quite helpful. In doing some other research it seems there is a hard min of 3.5 total rotations and a hard max of 6. As long as the 2 past hand tight puts me somewhere in there I will go with it.
That looks great, and thanks for a concise well produced video! Side note: The hose reel will likely need replacement every year. Unless the customer goes to the effort to use compressed air to get all of the water out before winter, that things will freeze and crack once the temps get cold.
Great vid Pat. You are the man! :-) We'd love to send you some Hose Bib Buddy plates if you'd like to demo - since the loose or difficult to secure hydrant is such a frequent problem. I'd like to point out a few things. 1. That our plate is soft aluminum and acts as a sacrificial anode for the little system - to protect the piping, valve, and connections from galvanic corrosion. 2. If replacing, often you have to make the hole bigger to get the old out and the new in. Our plate is super handy to bridge the gap and secure. The hole and the exterior can be sealed with clear silicon rather than cement or mortar. It looks much better and takes less time. (For plumbers this saves time, and possibly a return trip.) 3. The HOSE BIB BUDDY is now in Lowe's Stores too. :-) Thanks again! - Paul from BluMare Research
I had a leak inside my wall when I turned the spigot on couldn't figure out why. This video was super helpful. Wish they would've added a service loop!!!
I just managed to install two of these for the first time the other day. You noted at 3:20 that the bib should slope down, at 2:48 I saw the C-shaped plastic shim. That shim is designed to provide the necessary slope as it is wedge-shaped and should have been installed between the bib and the wall.
True. They both have they're pros and cons. The main concern about the old school ones is it's very common to forget about shutting the water off prior to winter.
