Excellent work Evan! This is a great addition to what you showed us in the series with Michael. Love that you went into detail on the painting and weathering of this kit, great example of a DAK tank, well done! 👍
@@Panzermeister36 Happy New Year, Panzermeister! I had a question (need some help :) . The paint set I got for my Panzer IV is AF Vallejo for German Afrika Korps (DAK). I received it as a gift from a friend who knew I was building a DAK tank. They instructed me to first apply the #603 German Panzer Grey. I did, and it looks pretty good as a base coat, I think (I haven't used hair spray yet). But the next color they instruct me to apply is #097 Base Grey. They are saying it's for lightening, "especially in the center of the panels and for details". I found this a little confusing. Are they meaning for it to work as White would? Because if that's the case, why would they want it applied over the whole tank (they picture it that way). I thought the 603 Panzer Grey should be the visible one underneath the desert camo after chipping (as you show in your video here)? Wouldn't the Base Grey #097 negate that? That's my first question. Next, they're saying to apply the #606 German Green Brown (the RAL 8000 you show here). But they say it doesn't have to be applied evenly and some areas can even be left Grey (which would now be their 097 Base Grey). I'm like, "What? Why would they say to leave any 097 Base Grey visible?" That didn't seem like it would be would be historically accurate. Next, they say to use #230 Light as a highlight on the center of the panels & upper parts such as the turret. But my question here is, "Wouldn't they be light enough from the 097 Base Grey underneath by now? I'm wondering if this would be overkill? Then they say (as an OPTION) to use camouflage markings #116 Grey Green (the RAL 7008 you show) over 30% of the tank, like you mentioned. And finally, their Step 6 is the 520 Mat Vanish. So my main question is what would you do at this point? Apply the 097 Base Grey over the whole tank (like they advise) or just in certain places (like White to go over panels, detailed and upper parts)? Do I really even need the 097 Base Grey at ALL? Then (If I did use it) wouldn't I just cover the entire tank with the RAL 8000 Green Brown (as you did) after to not leave ANY of the 097 Base Grey visible (like they say I have the option of doing)? Forgive me for typing so much and if any of this is confusing, let me know and I'll clarify. Because Vallejo really confused me here. Please let me know what you think. And as always, your stuff looks great!! :)
How do you get wilder products it seems like most of the stuff is sold out they don't have the thinner the aqualine or grease. Do they restock or is it usually one run and done the website doesn't seem to have been updated in awhile
Wilder has been unable to ship because of covid. They are bottled in Russia I believe so it's something to do with that. That's all I know though, sorry.
...I love your tank painting tutorials, I learn a lot...thanks for posting!!! I have to correct you on one thing...it is NOT a "DAK" tank...it is a D. A. K. (DEUTCHES AFRIKA KORPS) tank. You don't say DAK as in the Dallas Cowboys' Quarterbacks name, you have to pronounce the D. A. K. individually; I am an Honorary D.A.K. member of the Schweinfurt, Germany Chapter; Verband die Deutches Afrika Korps from back in the 1980's. (U.S. ARMY NCO RETIRED/DRILL SGT./BRADLEY MASTER GUNNER) Just trying to help...
Awesome in-depth review of your techniques and the reasoning behind them, which is just as useful as seeing it all actually done. I don´t know really why, but Panzer IIIs are simply magnificent machines.
Bad news on the Tresemme HS - they've changed the formula - Unilever's been sued in a class action for adding a Carcinogen Benzene to their hair products - All the old product has been pulled - I've used the new stuff and it is definitely not the same.
Again,just emptied spares from RFM Pzkw IV ausJ (£36) alongside the four types\sets of steel return rolllers,four early type cupolas,several ariels and mounts,just noticed 3 types of rear wheel hub that attaches to rear plate spare.To buy all these parts seperate as resin detail parts would cost as much as whole kit.Theres probably more,those are just what i noticed.Top's dragons mkIv 'superkits' in moulded detail.Three wheel welds to scale,cast numbers on several parts.You would probably know the factorys where the different parts where from.
That looks like an awesome kit..and I am looking for one for an Afrika Corps Diorama...I did a great European diorama for the same Panzer...but plz let me know your thoughts,,,on this Dragon kit...it looks great...thank you so much...
I picked up archers peelable transfer film DAK decals there amazing! See the palm tree one on the front it looks amazing! My friend owns the shop next to my house so he got a shed load of archers fine transfers n decals in as a job lot from a company down south! Just aswell with poor archers fine transfers are going out of business! This was actually sad ,,to hear! I'm away to start building the Ausf N from a J the new Dragon re release first edition with fighting compartment interior etc
I found the new AK Real Colors do not work with the Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner; however when thinned with the standard Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, chipping can still de done.
I find that tracks are often mis-painted as German tracks were painted black or grey in the factory and wherever the vehicle is used the tracks pick up the terrain color. You would never normally see rust on dirty tracks. On American tracks, yes you may see rust as the tracks were not painted.
At 23:34 The stuff is accumulating in droplets. Would using "wet water" (water with a very small amount of dishwashing liquid in it) instead of regular water make a difference here? Seems like your fighting the water's surface tension.
Because of you and nightshift i am now on tank #3, military truck #2 ,and a couple of 35th and 1 16th scale figures painted along with a 35th scale diorama in the last month. I am considering bringing them or 1 to a modelers contest or show.Thanks i love this hobby so much now being that it is a break and something fresh away from hectic work!!
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks for answering back, I appreciate that. I am always looking for new products to try out with weathering and detailing my tanks, again thanks. Also you have some assume videos.
RAL 8000 & RAL 7008 are very similar. RAL 8000 is more towards the Brown spectrum, where RAL 7008 is more towards the Green spectrum. The most used colour was RAL 8020 which is more of a yellowish-grey. Other all I really like your work, well done.
Another new question is I'm using the AK paints you suggest but when I try and thin them with the x20a like you suggest they just seem to clump and not thin since they are lacquer based. I don't understand how your not getting a clumpy mess
AK Real Colors were originally a lacquer-acrylic hybrid paint, like Tamiya, so you could thin them with water or X-20A (butyl alcohol) or lacquer thinner. About a year ago, AK changed their formula without announcing this to anyone, so now the Real Colors are pure lacquers and only work with lacquer thinner. I have some AK RC paints from before (as I used in this video at the time) and I've also bought more since and it's impossible to tell which type you have by the bottle. Sometimes you can still end up with the old ones if stores have old enough stock.
Outstanding job! I thought that looked like a Dragon kit. I just finished a Dragon Tiger I Initial Production. Had those "magic tracks". About 15% of the links had the guide horns molded as a mirror image of what they should have been. Whew!! That said, I still like Dragon and Tamiya when I need a very accurate representation of a subject. You've got me looking to do a DAK vehicle of some sort. Great techniques with good explanations to go along with them.
i love your videos, they are really inspiring! You have that perfect kind of sedateness in your videos which really gives me the feeling "I can do that, too!" :) Right now, i am building a Pz.KpfW III following this video. Is there any substitute for the "Aqua Line dry earth"? Can i maybe use some other branded similiar earth-effects, or does something special doing the magic in the one from Aqua Line?
I think the reason you're getting silvering around your decals is because you aren't pressing them onto the surface. To remove the layer of water they are floating on. I usually do this with a cotton bud/q-tip. Using a rolling action you can press the decal onto the surface and absorb the water. Then you're all set to apply micro set/sol and they won't be diluted. Hope this helps.
Awesome! I have been tinkering with the idea of building a tank and so purchased an Armourfast 1/72 Panzer IV. After this magnificent work I'm going to try everything before attempting a 1/35. Fantastic build, respect from England.
Hairspray question: does it not weaken the adhesion of everything applied over it, making all the subsequent work fragile and prone to moisture damage? Does the hairspray ever 'cure' or is it liable to dissolved by water for ever more?
The top layer of paint applied over the hairspray will eventually fully cure (assuming you are using a good quality paint and not Vallejo). That's why it's important to chip the model within a few hours; it gets hard to chip while the paint cures. Eventually it will fully cure -- 24 hours later and I'll be applying a varnish and wash over the model.
Can you explain your psi you use for camouflage and base coats plz. I also have a bad spattering issue I can’t seem to fix. And do you ever do air recognition flags for the Afrika tanks? Video on how to make flags????
I'm usually spraying around 20-25 psi. But it all depends on your airbrush, paint brand, thinner type, thinner ratio, as well as the humidity, temperature, and air density of your modelling room. My exactly setup won't work exactly for you, but it should be a good starting point: 0.3 needle 60% lacquer thinner Tamiya acrylic paint 20-ish psi
Hi Panzermeister, I would like to use acrylic AK paints for my Dak. panzer two. What colors/number would you recommend for base and camouflage. Thanks for your great videos! 🇺🇸
Sorry I'm not super familiar with the AK acrylic range. I really only use those for brush painting. The AK Real Color line is what I use for painting camouflage.
WOW, I am soooooo farrrrrrr behind the curve. I am embarrassed to look at my work after watching this. Great information. I will be watching your work from now on.
Nice and good explained. But are the color not to dark and not yellow enough for Africa Corps? Default dunkelgelb is the color I read? Another question how ti coose right primer color? If I use a dark one like black the lighter color like yellow become darker?
No, Dunkelgelb is not the North Afrika theatre colour. That would be RAL7028; instead this is RAL8000 and 7027 for camouflage. I generally use a red primer colour on my models now as it gives a nice warmth to the colours applied on top.
Hi Panzermeister :-) Got a question about dry pigments in the end of weathering... did You use any pigment fixer or thinner or matt varnish on the dry pigments after You applied them on tank?? Thanks...
Nope, I never apply fixer to the pigments as it ruins their colour and texture. I just only apply them in places where the model won't be handled so they don't get worn off.
Hi Mr P. Loving your videos helping me get back into hobby. Yes I’m not finding much choice in oil paint thinners local to me. Do you know of Mr Colour thinner? It’s 100% Organic solvent. Is that any good for thinning oil weathering? Cheers , Dave.
It's nice work as usual. I'm so happy, because I watched your painting from start to the end. Probably, I know what you had done and wanted to do. So, I got a lot. Thanks Panzermeistar36 and I'm looking forward to the next. Regards, : )
Sometimes that was the case, yes, and that's what I did on my DAK Pz I. But with these late Pz III Ausf.H, this was later in the African campaign and so they were repainted in the tropical camouflage at a factory. If you're doing a Pz III Ausf.G or an early Ausf.H, those would likely have been painted as you described, with the crosses left exposed on grey patches through the desert yellow.
As a tanker, the one thing that I would mention is the track center guides. Where they go into the idler wheel they scrape the paint off, on the inside of the idler guide and the surfaces of the track center guides, which end up being bare polished metal.
Heyyy, would you maybe do a video about brushes at some point? Which sizes you tend to use for what, what kind of make like sable or otherwise and which type to look for for particular tasks (like dry brushing, or pinwashing). Also, yours always seem in good condition so is there anything you do to preserve them and keep their tip etc?
Very good tutorial and outstanding result. Thank you. Thanks mate for the share in your community tab, you did send about 1500 views over and 150 new subscribers - shot me right through the 1000 milestone xD You realy brightend up my last days with this : ) After watching this, I'll crack open a bronco stug D : )
I am glad to hear that! I think the high quality of your video production and models, plus how well you explain stuff in the videos, really deserved more viewers :) I'll look forward to a StuG III :) the Bronco StuG kits go together very well...other Bronco kits can be overly complicated, but not the StuG.
It's definitely easier to use oil/enamel washes. But if you really want to use acrylic washes, wet the surface before you apply the wash. While it's still wet you can clean the overspill with a dry brush and repeat. Streaking with acrylic can be done the same way.
I was using x20a with RC 004 flat white when preshading (0,2mm nozzle). Mix ratio was 1:2 paint and thinner. After 10 to 15 minutes paint was useless. Can you give any tips such as "ratio was to high" or "you need to paint fast before this effect"?
Recently AK Real Colors are no longer compatible with alcohol-based thinners, only Lacquer. I'm not sure why. They changed the formula. I have older AK Real Color paints so they still work with X-20A alcohol thinner.
Just wanted to say that if anyone would like to use acrylics for weathering, you easily can and even re activate them with water, just make sure to put hand soap into the mix. For example a wash of 7 parts water, 2 parts paint and 2 parts of hand soap, and the wash can re activated , just like enamels.
Hey dude, first off outstanding video! Regarding the AK RC paints. You said you thinned with X-20A. I have tried that with RC and it just balls up as it seems they're not compatible with X-20A. Did you do something else I'm missing?
The new AK RC formula changed the paints to pure lacquer (they used to be lacquer-acrylic hybrid like Tamiya) so you have to use lacquer thinner for those paints now. Sorry...this change was something that occurred after I filmed this video.
They can still work. HS chipping lacquer paints is just a little harder since the paint is more durable. So basically you'll have less working time before the paint hardens up and becomes super hard to chip. But it's still doable. I just like to be safe so I would personally use Tamiya paints.
I'm working on an Academy Panzer III in DAK colors, and I've also been using the AK Real Colors paints. I did run into a snag trying to thin them with Tamiya X20A; the paint appeared to just separate and turn into a messy glob. You seem to have no problems thinning them with the Tamiya thinner; any idea what I"m doing wrong?
@@Panzermeister36 That would explain why I had no problem spraying their version of RAL 7021 as the base coat since I thinned that with Mr. Levelling Thinner. The change in formation would also explain why it doesn't chip very well, at least for me.
Love your tutorials. I've heard that applying varnish after everything is done is a no-no as it ruins the weathering effects, pigments and oils. Is this true? How would I protect a model I use for wargaming?
Yeah, i have also heard it melts the pigments. I would suggest not weathering the wargaming kits all that much. Try to use mostly acrylic effects since they are okay to touch. I think it is okay to varnish after enamel washes, filters or oil dots. People use wilder acrylic effects but i cannot give any suggestions about them since they arent avaible here in turkey.
I build WW2 armor in two modes. One it's going to be handled a LOT playing Bolt Action or Tank Platoon an the other are dioramas normally built to commemorate Grandfather doing his bit in the war. On the later occasions I have the luck of having a source photo(s). For the first, I try to make them look good with realization that they're effectively toys.
Hi Panzermeister, nice video... !!! Nice sound and picture / vid quality . Always fun to see your videos and how you explain the techniques.... !!!! Like it a lot... greetings Carsten
Hi panzermeister great video, I’m a bit confused, i mixed my paint exactly as per the video with the exact same thinner and they turned to sludge 🤷🏻♂️
I think AK changed the formula of these paints recently. Now they are pure lacquer so you can't use X-20A. Instead, AK Lacquer thinner or Tamiya lacquer thinner or another lacquer works.
One can put enamel or oil effects on top of other enamel or oils effects and not fear what you’ve done already being damaged if you give them enough time to fully dry before applying more. That could mean waiting an entire 24 hours, especially for oil paint.
I love this build, would like to see more of the oil wet affects around some of the idler arms and the road wheel hubs - perhaps more of the same effect around the Jerry Cans, often fuel is spilled, Jerry can tops and down the sides around the cap area. Also on the block of wood I would like to see some darker stains on the wood, the block of wood on the rear I would like to see some damage to the surface such as dents, gouges and some splintering. A really good tool to use is a carpenters pencil to give you the more polished surface area on the track teeth and pads, and machine gun barrels. Lastly the tow cables are often covered in grime - often shiny in some areas such as the bridle loops from use. Great looking tank'
I really enjoyed and learned a lot from your weathering tutorials - thank you! Q: Where do you get your Wilder products from? None of my local hobby shops carry them. Peace.
I got my Wilder products from Wilder itself. But they're very hard to find nowadays. AK interactive has equivalent products that I would recommend in place of Wilder's.
One particular detail I love is the Continental embossed on the rubber of the wheels. At what point did Dragon start including that? And are there any other companies that reflect such detail?
Thanks so much! I came upon this video at the perfect time. I just started building Tamiya's Panzer IV Ausf. G which is a DAK version and you're video has really inspired me on what to do. I didn't know you could use hair spray for instance. Going to try that. Thank you!
Very impressive, will try it on my future project. I’m having issues finding wilder products such as aqua line, are there any products comparable to them?
Hey Mike! Yeah Wilder is on pause at the moment as covid makes it impossible for him to ship from his factory in Russia. You could achieve a similar result with enamel effects and blending those with enamel thinner, but then you'll have to apply a varnish since washes/filters/grease etc. effects might react since they're all enamel based. I've seen guys (Mark/Armour Empire and Norm/SchweinHund227) airbrush on AK enamel dust effects and blend with enamel thinner for the same effect. Really, the AquaLine are supposed to be used just like enamels, but since they're water based they're meant to speed up weathering as you can skip varnishing and just layer them over enamels/oils without worry (or vice versa).
Great video, thank you. Super helpful suggestion re putting a small piece of paper underneath the tools when you paint them! God I wish I did that over the past twenty years lol.
i just got a bottle od vallejo panzer aces old wood 70.310 in from sunwardhobbies and its nowhere near the same color as yours. mines dark whereas yours is like a buff color mines brown. wow I'm pissed off. its not the $4.00 its the fact that they suck. It makes me think all the other colors i own from them from the model, model air, and panzer aces are all off too. i wrote them an email with the batch number and im waiting to see what they say. It just makes me want to throw all their paints out. As of today im re-ordering all my paints from AK interactive figure line. i wish i knew about AK first but all the youtube videos i watched everybody's using vallejo and praising it. and i thought it was great too, up until today when i got my mail and checked out the paint and seen its nothing close to what you use.
Vallejo paints are not always the best quality. They havr good coverage for brush painting, but I can't stand them for airbrushing. Their primer is also garbage. Now I've never personally had such variation on colour between batches, but I would believe it. AK Gen 3 acrylics and superior, and when these bottles of Vallejo run out I will be replacing them with AK Gen 3.
@@Panzermeister36 ya man im re-ordering all the paints from ak the figure line and i think some ave's from their new gen 3. sunwrdhobbies has them all. i dont blame the store for the product i blame vallejo. its literally a dark brown color the Old Wood 70.310. what a waste of money.
@@Panzermeister36 i meant what a waste of money to have spent on the entire vallejo line. im literally tossing them all out that's how angry i am. i barely even used them.
Another awesome episode. Can't wait to test these techniques out on a DAK vehicle of my own. Thank you! At some point, would you consider building a late war vehicle in tri-color? Maybe a Panther G, Pz.IV Ausf. J, etc?
Thanks for that reply ! Love your work , particularly your weathering with oils , have a cheap hand held airbrush/compressor and would love to move up to a Patriot 105 set-up , maybe Santa ! Thanks again Ed
Iwata revolution + AS18 on the way . ? Why do you dilute acrylics 60/40 ? Is it necessary for the colour or the airbrush ! I'm using Vallejo Model air straight out of the bottle ! Best Edward
