Always enjoy watching, 38 years decorating and i am not too old to learn new tricks, expanding foam for one. I always use ready mixed paste for lining now, never a problem. It used to be solvite, then solvite with PVA, now tub paste. Keep up the good work.
We have used the tips you mention in the video to correct some problems, great that the hints and tips work very well and helped us to sort out some very bad problems leaving a very good finished refurb. Many thanks for sharing.
I had trouble sleeping ...real bad insomnia ..then i listened to this guy ....zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!! boom
Thanks for the great job. Can I ask a question? Do you let the hard stop dry + sand before the final coat or do you paint over it straight after applying?
@@PaintingandDecorating At 38 I decided to change career paths and I'm now just finishing up my second yr 6707 diploma and your vids have been a great help...thx mate!!
hi there another great vid... my lining paper already as filler between the joints but not a good job :( can i part the joints as you did and scrap out the old filler. then do as you did with hard stop ? thanks
Very useful video. I had a crap painter do my livingroom walls. Basically he didn't fill the gaps before doing a final coat. How many coats can the lining paper take, is there a limit? Thanks for your help
Beautiful mate. I miss working! Love how you use a specialist glue for a loose bit, then just some paint later on - it's all about the crafty details. I learnt to cut out any bits of grit under the paper - had a terrible drop once that I had peeled off the wall and re-stuck - loads of grit. What a mess. Will try your hard stop mix. I always use the lightweight acrylic filler for almost everything these days - but it will flash on lining paper. I always do picture rails first because I struggle to cut that lowest edge of them cleanly otherwise! Wonder if anyone ever told you there's an ASMR quality to your vids.. very calming.
Help me out gents..... ASMR??? Top tips as usual. Haven't gotten around to the hard stop yet. Why do you not use a flat roller tray? First rate bruv. Best Dave
ASMR a feeling of well-being combined with a tingling sensation in the scalp and down the back of the neck, as experienced by some people in response to a specific gentle stimulus, often a particular sound. You can stand on a flat roller try and tip it up. Thanks.
been asked to do a repaint on lining paper, can i get away with trade emulsion through an hvlp sprayer....? ive only put johnstones quick dry through it before which is pretty thick but i dont want to risk putting too much moisture onto the wall and having the paper bubble up.
Thank you, this is very useful! Quick question, I am moving to a flat which has painted lining paper and I am planning to repaint it with a different colour, is this video still applicable? Any preps I should do before hand? Thanks!
Hi mate, great video. I noticed you re use your scuttles and I’m wondering how you manage to get away with re using for each job without cleaning? Any tips here would be appreciated as I currently use liners but have tried to re use scuttles in the past and then after a few rooms the scuttles ends up peeling on me.
I always have half a dozen in the van. Wipe one out, allow to dry and use another that's dry. They fit one inside another so need only the shelf/floor space of one.
Wallpaper paste back in the 1980s wasn't that bad. I never used to have edges lift. For lining paper which is never likely to want removing if you do it properly, I add 10% PVA. I have far fewer problems with that mix.
Great vid again. Tried this technique for hiding joint lines. I can still see them prior to applying second coat of paint, is this normal? Or Will the next two coats of paint hide them?
I’ve made the mistake of hanging the paper horizontal then filling. It cracks when the room heats up. If you hang it vertically the joints butt up better. Cross lining for painting is really hanging the paper horizontal then hanging another layer of paper vertically.
@@terrywalsh8355 But don’t you then have more paper joins that way?. If I hang horizontally only one join to deal with. If I was to hang vertically would have multiple joins?
Bit late to see this video, but u do it totally different to me,cross linning doesn't hide the seams,and them lifting shunt be happening,once walls are fully prepped size the walls leave to dry,drop hang the paper like normal finish paper using ready mixed glue no seam lift at all,leave 2mm gap in seams leave paper to dry,paint walls in white ,like a mist coat,fill 2mm gap in seams then sand,paint white over sandeď filler, walls done perfectly and ready for top coats in the chosen colour
i've had an absolute nightmare with decorators i've ended up using your videos to try and salvage and fix their work off of your videos. I'm in liverpool if you ever fancy helping i will pay all costs to come haha.
@@PaintingandDecorating thank you, your videos has helped a lot with the tips you give. What I like most is how you explain each tip you give and why you recommend doing it, thanks again 👍
You add water to the first coat because the paint soaks in to the new paper which sometimes causes an orange peel effect. Yes you cut it in on the second coat.
I wall ask you about this issues. firso of all sorry about my English, i´m Antonio form Portugal. I have some walls (drywall) with liningpaper. I have paint the first wall and after painting appears bubbles , just after painting. Is this normal ? will disappear after drying ?.....?!?!, thanks
Hi I love your videos, my dad taught me how to paint and he sadly passed away. I've taken over his company (one man band!) But the current job I am doing, the lining paper has blown and they don't have the budget to strip the paper and line it again...should I cut these bubbles out and then splay it off with filler? Thanks in advance
@@jackoconnor3812 Thank you... Sometimes you can remove the bubble or blown area seal using B.I.N. primer then sand prime again if needed.. emulsion ... if visible use a hard stop filler (paint mixed with pollyfilla) light sand then emulsion.. thanks hope that helps
Question..If you apply the paste to the paper. Will that cause it too expand on the wall and overlap as it weren't pasted enough in the first instance? Thanks
Sounds like you have not read your instructions.. I had taken it for granted you had allowed it to soak... that being you have used normal lining paper... some lining papers need time to soak... higher the grade longer the soak.
@@PaintingandDecorating I used 1700 grade, And allowed to soak between 8 and 10 minutes. As you mentioned, I belived i had some overlapps due to the wall not being flat at as you mentioned. If i get dry areas and paste whilst on the wall, could it cause the seam to overlapp?
My house is old from 1930s the plaster has lost of hairline cracks to many to rack out and fill I've had to rooms reskimed so far but it's expensive so instead of reskim would it be better and cheaper to use lining paper?.
Should never skim over old plaster that is full of hairline cracks ,tap the wall with your knuckle if it sounds hollow you should knock back to bare brick and replasterboard ,at a push to save money you should try wall rock fibre liner a little more expense than lining paper but very strong but like any decorating it's only as good as your prep social and sand a couple of times first then pva
My go to lining paper is always 1200 grade as opposed to your 1000 sir! I always line vertically when I’m painting it and I find the joints never split! Also lining vertically avoids the paint sitting on any dodgy joints and opening them up if you’ve lined horizontally.Works for me.
I change the grade depending on how smooth the wall is. I had a roll of 1000 grade so I used that. Possibly would of used 1200 on this wall if it was not lock down.
Absolutely . 37 years as a apprentice trained dec, and never once had to fill any joints after lining . 1200 grade is my choice too. Anything thicker starts getting like ‘cardboard ‘. Also, I find vertical hanging best, regardless of what I was taught at tech !!. Everyone has there own technique .
I’ve don a first coat and had one bit that had a slight crack in joint , did the hard stop with paint , let it dry , gave a slight rub down , then painted my second coat , but now I’ve got more joint cracks appearing, what am I doing wrong … thanks in advance
I've seen many slow painters in my time but this man is the slowest. So much time spent on cutting in and so much excessive and unnecessary brushwork and roller useage. How long did that first wall take to cut in and Roll? 'd not like to pay him on T and M.
What a bodger,obviously not enough paste on the edges of the lining paper,it would of been helpful to use a roller on the joints but then peels back an unstuck joint and then sticks it back down with emulsion paint,if this is the work of a so called time served qualified painter he needs to seek further training.
@@PaintingandDecorating 5year apprenticeship served gaining city and guilds basic and advanced certificates,specialist finishing training including marbling and graining,I think gives me enough experience to comment on the standard of your work.
