Thank you 👍 ....and i will be putting up a video demo on wallrock fiberliner(non woven lining paper) in the next few weeks so be sure to look out for that one 👍
First ever video I've watched on the subject and clear as crystal about what a liner layer is perhaps not the leveller it's described as on the label. Practically, the need to prepare your work surface can't be short-cutted to achieve the same superior results.
Hi Joe. You’ve done another good video. I find some clients think lining the walls is like waving a magic wand and they assume the walls will look as if they have been plastered. You make good points on why we line and the limitations of what lining can achieve without prep. Cheers Stevie, Alba Decor
I find the best combination is kitting holes, then installing lining paper, then textured (preferably patterned) wallpaper. Makes the wall look like new and hides 99% of imperfections.
If you just apply a liner before applying emulsion matt paint do you apply it horizontally or vertically? My fear is that you might see the lines between the liner sheets.
Good tips! I stumbled across your channel after looking how to paper a window reveal wanted to know how it was done (helped me when getting quotes as I knew how jobs should be done I could spot the cowboys... so far it’s all of them so jobs not done yet!) lining paper video gives me more questions I can ask :)
If I have seams showing after the paste has dried I mix up some filler to the consistency of paint and brush it I to the seams then hand sand with a sanding block - no visible seams.
Hi Joe, brilliant videos ! always learn a lot from your videos. One area i get confused about is where like in this video the original contract matt has flaked off the plaster, so do you have to fill in these areas with a filler? OR treat it with a primer/sealer? or just paste over when re-papering? thanks in advance for help.
On this Job, the walls are sized and the lining seals everything in....every job is different though, and potentially, as long as its not a very thin paint film on the surface, the walls can be filled and sanded smooth, but not in this case....paint film too thin and mskes it very difficult to fill and sand smooth without it either breaking down the contact matt further down when wet in with filler, and also very difficult to avoid very thin filler falling back out when sanded. If the walls were in a good enough condition to prep and paint without the need for a skim or lining, i would definetly recommend sealing the surface with say zinsser gardz, before applying the filler ect because you really need to avoid filling, oainting or papering straight over a chalky or porous surface
Thanks mate I'm doing 1200 on fairly good walls, need some filling and prep first. I was always taught to line before painting 🤔 it feels weird to paint a bare walls and chipped off in a rental. I'm wondering if I need to undercoat the lining paper before putting the main colours on? I'm using pastel colours and don't want wastage.
If using non woven lining paper do I still need to line horizontally and my final paste the wall wallpaper vertically? ** note: I'm lining wall( has no damage other than nail holes I'vefilled and sanded) to cover up flat texture on the wall.
You don't have to, but to minimise the amount of joints, I still cross line with the 1 metre wide wallrock smooth if painting over(standard fibreliner if papering over)
You can stick linkng paper to cement, but it needs to be flat and smooth . Linjng paper does not make axrough surface smooth, but sanding & filling is usually required to flatten off a surface ready for linjng. New cement would need sealing or stabilising before applying linjng paper to it
No sorry, but you can do one of two thing's..... Cut out the creased paper and repair with filler and level, or you can remove the whole length and replace. I would personally remove the piece effected and redo properly.
Hi yes, if the surface is level/even for example, but it has been patch repaired with fillers, or the surface is different colours ...it would be recommended to line the surface to give it consistent obsorbsion of paste, and consistent background colour, because non woven paper in particular tends to be less opaque
I'm doing my hallway ive taken 3 layers of wallpaper off, underneath at the bottom the plaster is really loose qnd I was going to line it because of this otherwise it will fall out
Hi Laura, all loose plaster needs to be knocked off and then the walls then need to be filled and sanded smooth before any paoering or painting is done. Its all standard preperation to be honest, and the most important part of any repaint or decoration. Lining paoer will not prevent the plaster coming loose behind it unfortunately. If you tap the wall area you will hear a different (hollow) sound on the areas that are loose behind, or not stuck to the brickwork....these areas need to be knocked off and filled for best results. Hope this helps, and feel free to ask any other questions 👍
Great info! You mention about walls being more absorbing in some areas for the paste. Say a patch is rendered and patch is Pollyfiller etc. So could you not just give all the walls a coat of diluted pva to seal it all first?
Rather than using a,seperate glue to seal like pva, i just dilute some of the paste im using and size the walls with that first. The same if i was painting, i would prime/seal filled areas with a thinned version of the paint im using unless its soft sheen or vinyl silk....then i would use a contract matt as a sealer. Cheers, Joe
We are lining out walls to paint but we won't be wall papering it so I am thinking it's ok to put base paper vertical in this case? Do you have a walk keeping video as I can't find that?
Hi sarah, did you mean wallpapering video? I dont have a specific step by step one highlighting hanging wallpaper vertically, but i do have a couple applying lining paper horizontally.. and a couple of time-lapse videos hanging paper vertical. It is perfectly ok to hang lining paoer vertically if painting, but the best way I find is a combination of both ways to eliminate the amount of seams. Best Regards, Joe
Informative video, well done Joe! ....Question for you. I'd like to apply wallpaper to one wall of a room, then remove the wallpaper about one year later. Currently the wall is orange peel texture, painted with navajo colored paint with eggshell or satin finish. After removing the wallpaper (one year later), I would like to have the wall back to it's original painted finish. If necessary I can re-paint the wall. So my question is this. (1) Is there a lining paper, that is very easy to strip? (2) Preferably I would like to skip the step of adding lining paper. In this case, how would you recommend I install the wallpaper so that it is easy to remove a year later? (e.g. using a special paste?) fyi there is not a peel-n-stick wallpaper available in my design.
I forgot to add that having an eggshell or sstin finish under the non woven wallpaper is perfect...because you could remove paste the wall wallpaper from that surface even easier but you would then just have to clean all remaining paste residue before repainting 👍 If you use a packet paste the wall paste...it will not adhere long term as much as ready made paste
As I'm coming closer to doing my project I wanted to ask if you can advise on the advantages/disadvantages of woven vs. nonwoven wall paper liners. Also, as I am attempting to stay away from toxic materials and run a green home, do you have recommendations for cellulose or wheat based adhesives? Thinking I don't need a product with fungicide if it's going in a bedroom. Thoughts?
Great questions, although i will have to get back to you regarding the paste. The non woven lining paper can be pasted on the paper, or the surface you are applying it to as there are no soaking times, unlike woven, so it can speed it up slightly. The non woven lining is a lot stronger and is great for covering over reaccuring hairline cracks, as the cracks will not tear the non woven like it would do with woven, snd it is also available in wider widths. Now for the negatives....because it is tougher, and there are no soak times, it is not as pliable as woven lining, meaning it can be more difficult to apply in complex areas, for example window reveals, areas with lots of complex trimming, and external corners...but these things are not an issue for an experienced paper hanger. The other is the cost, and even though it can be bought in wider widths, its still roughly twice the price.(but worth it for me if the surface suffers from reaccuring cracks on the surface. Hope this helps, all the best, Joe
The other thing to consider, is if you use wallrock non woven fiberliner , and you are painting the surface....i recommend the wallrock smooth fiberliner as a much better option than the standard one. The standard does have a very slight texture which is only noticable close up and in certain light.....but the smooth version is smooth sumilar to standard woven lining paper.
What happens if you don't want to use lining paper and you just want to paint walls like this. Is it a case of taking all that paint off or will sanding work? Every time I've sanded walls like this it's dented the plaster more than taking the paint down
Great question.... Its either scrape all of the paint off or have it reskimmed for best results. If I remove wallpaper on a job and find this mapping I always recommend reskimming for best results, with the secondary option being lining... But with the lining potion, it is not always possible to just apply the lining... Sometimes it needs double lining, or even double lining and moderate surface filling(feathering) to be able to get a smooth finish. The lining option can often work out more expensive, so reskimming is, always the best option.are in mind that even if they are going to be skimmed... The wall's still nerd scraping and sanding to remove any loose material for best results. Scraping the paint off can be very time consuming,
This was a rental property with the landlord wanting me to do the cheapest possible option at the time. Single lining it was not to the same standard as if I was pricing a normal domestic job... I ended up doing this room again inbetween tennents and I face filled all the visible imperfections and sanded perfectly smooth. The landlord was not willing to pay for all of the work in one go first time around... But because I have pride in my work... I made sure to get it done the second time and managed to include it in my price 👍
Couple of quick questions Joe, (great video by the way.), So, basically old walls that have been dot & dab plasterboards installed and then plastered , this was then misted over with Dulux trade matt, and then finished with 2 coats of the undiluted matt, the finished painted walls are a nice flat matt but not a dusty dry like they would be if a contract paint was used, unfortunately though we have a very persistent vertical crack which we've filled & sanded numerous times with every flexible filler on the market, but it just keeps coming back, so we've now decide to now use lining paper on this one wall and then paper over the lining paper with a nice finishing wall paper as a feature wall. My query is this, will the wet paste on the finishing paper cause the lining paper to bubble, if so how do we prevent this ? Also what make & grade lining paper would you recommend ? Thanks.
Hi, I find applying expanding foam behind the crack, then filling over sometimes works without the need for taping it. If you repair the crack again, I would then recommend applying wallrock fiberliner instead of standard linjng as this will prevent the paper from tearing with movement
Thanks for your reply Joe, We did try drilling holes into the plasterboard and putting expanding foam behind the board, it worked great for a few months whilst we were doing the rest of the renovation but after my son moved in the crack returned, and has gradually got worse, but I'm confident using a lining paper and the a top finishing paper will hide it. Can Wallrock Fiberliner be papered over or painted like a "normal lining paper, I've never heard of it ? Also if we decide to repaint instead of papering how do we hide the joint lines of the Wallrock Fiberliner ? Surely any joint line, no matter how good the joint is will show once painted ? Thanks again for helping out, if only I had found your videos months ago, it would of saved me a small fortune in money, months of filling & sanding, over and over again, and certainly helped with my bloody stress levels !
Yes wallrock is a paste the wall lining oaper and can be painted or papered over. I recommend wallrock smooth if painting over as it has,a slightly smoother surface
Last 2 questions honest, does the wallrock go on a certain way round, ie. is there a front and back if that makes senses, also how do you hide any joints if the dont butt up nice ?
@jactac879 regarding it butting up, it should butt up really well , otherwise the surfaces have not been prepped correctly....but just in case there are any open joints, you can fill them with say toupret tx110 filler and wipe smooth . Also just apply the wallrock as it comes off the roll.
Hi Joe, thanks for the video, I once cross lined a room, then hung the paper, when the paper dried there were gaps everywhere, any ideas why? I cross lined so the paper would hold in place.the paper was black, luckily I managed to fix the problem, thanks.
Hi there, did you use packet paste or ready made tub paste? Packet paste has much more water content and when absorbed into some papers, it expands alot, then shrinks back alot... Using both ready made paste and cross lining should eliminate this happening.... It's never happened to me doing both these steps.... But another reason for gaps is caused by the surface not being even... And therfore the seams not lining up Cheers, Joe
@@davidsmith141 another couple of tips, perhaps the black paper dried to quickly, was the heating on? Also when hanging dark papers it can pay to work out where the joints will be and paint a black stripe. If the paper shrinks it will be less obvious.
Hi Joe,just bought some lining paper from Screwfix but got the 1400 Erfurt Red Label double lining paper natural.whats you thoughts on it.I am wanting to hang it vertical as I’m decorating the landing,stairs and hallway and I am going to paint it,also can I size the walls using wallpaper paste just before I’m going to paper it.Cracking videos joe.👍
The lining paper is fine.....hanging vertically is ok if you are painting over the paper...but it is very important to prep the surfaces prior to hanging the lining paper..I.e gettingvthe walls as flat and smooth as possible as to not throw the seams out when butting the paper up...and removing any contamination also
Hi bud.I’m a stay at home dad so I don’t get much money.I have already gone and got 2000 grade lining paper for covering the bad walls I have.I can’t afford to replace the wallpaper so I have to do with what I got.I’m using solvite packet paste.how thick do I need to mix the paste?? It says on the back of the packet.but surly the guide can’t be the same for 1000 and the same for 2000.I was thinking of mixing the paste as if I was using vinyl because of it’s weight.I’m in the middle of doing a recording studio for my son.I know I’ve been abit silly in my thinking.but could you help me out on the best way to mix the paste so that it stays up on the wall.and if pasting the walls first will be good to do???
Hi there, Yes the thickest consistency it recommends on the packet. 2000 is thick, and personally wouldn't use packet paste. It's very important that the wall's are sufficiently prepped/repaired before applying the paper, and be sure to apply a size/sealer before papering as this will stop the surface then absorbing /sucking up all the paste from the back of the paper when hanging and causing it to not adhere in places. You can just thin some of the paste you are using. Also, if any filling is, required? Prime/seal any filled, area's to stop the same happening. The best of luck with it 👍
Hi. I have these exact same walls in my house that I am renovating. I am trying to decide between covering it with a couple of coats of white emulsion before the main colour. Using paint stripper. Or lining. 🤔 can I ask why you wouldn’t use paint stripper?
This oarticular job was a quick rental turnover, so removing all the paint was not an option on this job. Ideally i would usually sand back to bare plaster. Paint stripping products are notwhat they used to be, and i can sand back more quickly and efficiently, but it is still a time consuming job, especially if it is a larger area. On large areas, its usually better to have reskimmed for best resulta
@@JoeProDecor thank you. I have had the ceilings and one wall skimmed, I’m having to save on cost. The other walls are in good condition. It’s just the original paint that has chipped as I’ve stripped the paper that is an issue. Can I ask what grade of sand paper you would use to get the paint off?
Thank you very much Sir. Can this lining paper cover moderate orange peel left from paint roller to then put very thing / cheapest photo wallpaper to then dont see any orange peel ? If yes then will 1200 grid lining paper be alright ?
I would always recommend sanding the surface smooth first for best results.... That way its garunteed. But aesthetically speaking, by lining over orange peel, then applying a finish paper over that.... Should look OK. The reason for sanding surfaces flat and smooth is not just for aesthetic reasons, it aids adhesion also... Because the paper an fully adhere flat against the surface. Preparation is, key in any decorating project. On this particular job.... I was limited on budget by the owner, and this was bare minimum for the landlord.
@@JoeProDecor Thanks again. I will sand it down , which will also knock one third of orange peel hight. Which grade lining paler should i go with please ? 1400 ? How long to dry before applying final wallpaper? Keeping it as budget friendly as possible here as well , by the way.
@@maximolotov 1400 should be fine if it's only orange peel... And I always recommend ready made tub paste rather than packet paste (the one you mix with water yourself)... B&q do 10kg for £15, and wickes do one for a similar price. It has less, water content and is a stronger adhesive compared to packet paste.
The paint can be scraped and sanded off as no loose material should be left on the surface. All loose paint was removed from this these walls leaving only sufficiently adhered paint
@@hasnain7642 hi, for plastering related info, you are best asking advice from a plasterer. To scrape material off a surface you will need a scraper which are widely available on the internet, diy and decorating stores.
What about using lining paper for added sound absorption and insulation though? So i moved into a dump council property, high rise, and the walls are terrible, dont have the money to re plaster, they look really bad though, is there any other way to disguise them? maybe textured wallpaper with lining paper?
You could apply a textured paper, and it would help disguise bad surfaces... But applying paper on uneven surfaces can be a nightmare... Because if the surfaces are not flat, the paper will not line up properly on the seams, and struggle to stick consistently ... Tbh.... The cost of papering is always going to be more expensive than sanding and filling which is required to flatten the surfaces. There is no quick fix tbh with you... Quick job's, but no fix unless done correctly.
If the wall's are that bad? The council should do it for you... Just mither them... Telling them you cannot waste money decorating when the surfaces, are not ready.
@@JoeProDecor Council wont, because its a cosmetic issue, its full of 3rd hand smoke in here to and they didnt/wont do anything about that either. I tried to line one wall but it shows through, full of bumps and indentations, the doors and architraves are bad to, i had to sand those down and they still look like crap. Wont waste to much time/money on a council property! Oh and am i out of look now trying to maybe skim over the effected area i lined? before i try and use a textured wallpaper like a superfresco?
@@iDTecKt fair enough.... A heavy textured paper is probably your best bet then, but on tabacco stained, area's, try washing down with sugar soap first. The best of luck with it 👍
Hello Joe. I just moved into a new house. The upstairs toilet which only has a toilet and a little sink smells of elderly people and has lining paper in. Do I remove the lining paper and wash walls or paint over lining wall to remove smell?
Its difficult to know what the smell is?could be the toilet, drains? If so, removing the paper won't make any difference...is the paper stuck soundly? Is it a good finish or do the walls look like they might be bad underneath? Maybe if you tell the elderly people to go back home...that might help 😂
The smell is defo from the walls. People just painted the little toilet white over the patterned lining paper. Painting it again might help the smell go? I don’t really want to remove the paper.
@@alfiewhitbread6933 Its always best practice to remove and start again tbh...simply painting over what's already there will only mask the smell briefly until the smell of the paint has,wore off...and it sounds like the finish isn't great either if you can see where it's been filled
Preperation as normal, making sure the surfaces are sanded/scraped and filled smooth before spot priming filled areas, then application of your lining paper 👍 Just make sure that after preparations, the surfaces are free from any dust or contamination and dry before lining Lining walls isn't a substitute for preparation of surfaces basically, they still need sorting out before lining.. I'm presuming you mean after removal of the Cork tiles?
Very good, I'm subscribed,but isn't it Easter to put the lining paper vertical halfway across your finish paper,plus, how do you compensate for the reduction in size of your lining paper after you hang it?
There are a few reasons why I don't apply lining vertically if papering over, firstly the finish paper will not then have joints directly over another joint, then there is the horizontal fibers which limit the top paper from shrinking, and also applying horizontal simply means there is often less joints on the surface ( if you are painting)...usually I use a mixture of applications if painting. If a good quality paste is used(ready made) and the surface is properly sealed and levelled off....there are usually no gaps to fill on joints with the correct application....but if there ever was any gaps appearing, a good quality filler like toupret will sort that out.
Hi Victoria, no it doesn't have to be, but on large flat walls, it is advisable due to it simply being less lengths to apply with less seams. So i usually use a combination of both vertical and horizontal in full rooms with horizontal pieces being hung around window reveals ect. All the best, Joe
@@JoeProDecor thanks Joe! Also when i took my wall paper off underneath the bay, it had a thin sheet of polystyrene. Im worried that if i remove it and replace with just normal lining paper, i will get mould. What could i use to prevent this? Thank you x
@@victoriak7332 I can only presume it was there for insulation purposes rather than damp, as it would not stop water ingress coming in from outside. If it worked? I can only imagine redoing it the same would be beneficial it might simply have been done to help a cold spot in the house ? Which in turn might have been causing condensation? The best of luck with it Victoria 👍
I remember being taught the booking paper theory in college but always thought it was bollox i always thought it was just a case of paper adheres better to paper. 2 other reasons...alot of non woven papers can be semi transparent so the walls need to be completely consistent.. Liningpaper is great for helping filled cracked walls.. Unfortunately liningpaper is crap these days unless you buy the dulux paper or wallrock premium.. Cheers
I've tried pretty much all of the standard lining paper's and never had any issues with any of them tbh, and I use the gear Johnstones Decorating centres use generally, but wallrock is fantastic for surfaces that suffer from reaccuring cracks (I still repair the crack first obviously), but wallrock adds the extra strength and protection. I use wallrock fibreliner if I am wallpapering over, or wallrock smooth when painting over 👌 I recently lined a large hsl with wallrock smooth (newly plastered surfaces) because the client had issues with reaccuring cracks appearing because of movement caused by traffic on the main road.... Brilliant stuff! Thank you for your input, and of course for watching 👍
That depends, if the surface is patchy with different forms of filler over the years, or patchy as in colour, I would recommend lining the surface to give The surface even porosity which is important for consistency with adhesion and drying times. If its a perfect surface I will most likely go straight on. All the best , Joe
Does anyone think that this paper could be used to line shelves? I searched for shelf lining paper and this came up. It is much cheaper so I am curious. Thanks!
I got my trade as a painter and decorator in the UK took 4 years of college/ working onsite and then finally a " skills test". I moved to Canada in 2017, I am 27 years old. I can't get lining paper!! No store sells it and most wallpaper installers have not heard of it. I live in Calgary Alberta. It's a motherfucking nightmare trying to work out what the bloody hell is going on over here mate. Wallpaper installing over here seems like a super rare and secretive skill. Lining paper and pasting tables are growing out of the ears of painting stores in the uk. In Calgary you have more luck trying to find a woman with 3 tits than a pasting table and lining paper.
Probably something to do with it all being plasterboard there? And no brown and skim? Must admit, I wouldn't use lining paper over plasterboard as,a general rule unless it had been skimmed
My walls were lined vertically then painted over. Parts of the wall are uneven and some of the seams have bubbled and need repasting. Must have been an amateur job. But why don’t you just paint overcoat on the walls?
Thexwalls we're lined to create even porosity for paintv to adhere consistently. All surfaces should be flat and free from nibs, bumps and contamination before lining , but this was a rental accommodation that required a budget job not a professional finish.
Lots of reasons why the paint can peel.off a wall, mainly bad preperation, and this room was wallpapered over previously so that doesn't help when stripping the paper off with soaking....there are ways of reducing the risk by sealing in the paint first with either a specialised sealer or an oil based coating before papering. If the paint starts to peel, ideally it needs to be stripped off if repainting....or just removing all loose material and filling if papering over
"Listen to the professionals" who paste-size over old paste residue when the entire industry know it's best to remove the existing paste using Zinsser DIF thus eliminating any chance of mildew spores (seen or unseen) from the walls, removing the old paste also removes any chance of poor adhesion caused by paste degradation. Your about to hang pulp lining paper on top of contract Matt paint on walls where it's clear there is a case of paint failure caused by paper removal from thinned contract paint and reapplication of pulp liner will further weaken the cohesion of that paint to the plaster so clear choices are use a non woven liner (wallrock) that doesn't expand and contract so won't put stress onto a failed painted surface or apply an isolating coat of primer such as gardz which prevents the moisture from the paste softening and weakening the paint, a decent festool sander would also strip those walls of paint in minutes so a coat of beeline primer would be all that would be required. Could raise a few other points with you that a professional would have a differing opinion than you would but I'll wait for your reply to this.
I appreciate your opinion as many have their own ways. But in this situation , the walls have been scraped and sanded back with a mirka deros sander(preffered over festool) to remove any unsound material from the wall. This is the way I was taught many years,ago, albeit by hand then...and by using a sander illuminated the chance of any paint loosening under the paper. This is a tried and tested system that has never failed me in 30 years, and there is also no old paste residue left on the walls because it has all been sanded off and cleaned. Woven paper does put stress on the substrate, but the whole purpose of prepping the surface is to prepare it for that stress...like I said, this system is tried and tested and 90% of decorators sill do it this way Thank you 👍
@@JoeProDecor think you misunderstood me, I never said in your case there was paste residue on the walls, I was referring to you recommending others to size-paste-dampen at 8.07 mins. What you or I were taught years ago isn't relevent today as products and procedures change on an ongoing basis but that being said thinned Contract Matt paint remaining on a wall after paper removal is only a modern version of calcimine or distemper paint residue and the same process applies, either an isolating coat (Gardz) or total removal before reapplication of wallpaper which is the only way to prepare painted walls for the stress and torque of wallpaper drying and if proof is needed of that look at the walls in your video. To say 90% of decorators do it this way wouldn't surprise me as most modern decorators take as gospel what they see on RU-vid as proper and correct procedure but in reality most of it is slap dash comedy.
@@aspenade it's perfectly fine to size these surfaces that I have prepped, because I have done them properly, and size has never lifted the sound paint left on in 30 years I've been doing it ....I think you might be confusing me with someone that doesn't do the sufficient amount of sanding to take back to a sound substrate...its great that you use gardz as a safety net and everyone has their own ways which is great to see, but I personally never need to rely on gardz....its all in the prep....and thank you for your comments 👍 enjoy your weekend
I wouldn't recommend lining over bumpy walls as it won't hide bumps. The correct prep must be applied before applying paper , I.e filling to get the surface even. On this video, I was lining over walls that had a very thin paint layer in places, but the walls surface was even
Hi Darren, thanks 👍 never heard or come across that grade before...who supplies that in the uk? Tbh...1700 is too thick....so I dread to think how thick that must be?
