Beautifully done and filmed for the average guy possibly doing this at home. Tempted to follow it and do the job on my Range Rover, which uses the same engine.
Thank you for your video, it was great help to me on replacing the chains and guides and rebuilding both the VANOS on my 2002 E53, it had 127,000 miles on it and I could hear the rattle on start up from time to time. Great video, I used the German solutions kit and bought the socket for the solenoid. The three things that I did a bit differently was I had the cam covers powder coated gloss black, when I got it apart, and power washed the entire engine compartment before I began, and I also replaced the valley cover. When I took it apart some how I lost the metal pressure washer for the dipstick, and ended up not realizing it’s part it plays in keeping it from leaking. Got those parts at ECS along with most of my other parts, great prices and they are a one stop shopping source, the second thing is with the install of the drivers top timing cover, I found it easier to place a little sealer at the corners of the out part of the head, then tighten the bolts only enough to keep it and the gasket slightly up on the head. Then placed the cam cover on and torqued it to spec but not the three front bolts until after it squashed the cover and gasket into its proper position on the lower cover and the head, torqued the upper cover then the last three front bolts. That ensured a correct alignment and no oil leaks. Frankly it was labor intensive, yet it was way easier than than I thought and the car drives and sounds like new! The throttle response and smoothness are amazing. I also replaced the radiator, thermostat, alternator, all the coolant hoses, coolant reservoir, belts , air filter, spark plugs, oil and filter and coolant. With the cost of the tools to include a bmw OBD ll scanner, fan holder tool, German solutions tools, and parts I think the cost total was about $ 2,600.00. Not to bad, and the other thing I wanted to mention was about the Teflon seals are super easy to install if you place them in really hot tap water for about 5 mins, then quickly dry them off and they will go in really nice. They will cool down return to their original state and work just fine! I hope this will help anyone else that decides to do this job, it’s a very satisfying to have it back to normal! Thanks again, great video!!!
12:50 The actual cause of the diesel clatter sound at the original idle video. Thanks for showing this. In 2017, I sadly traded my 2001 E39 162k miles for this reason - could not trust it to run 80 mph all day for road trips. I have mental scars from this trade that will never heal. 9/10 for the interior, exterior, brakes, tranny etc. If it had a 6 speed it would have been worth to keep. Thanks for your videos, they should make this repair available for those w/o time to do all the research to do it correctly!! Too late for me :( 😪
Good video. I use the "China kit" and have never had a problem with the coggs. I always put some Loctite on the cam bolts so that they don´t loosen up.
Thank you so much for the contant and more importantly the time it took to be able to film and edit everything. I definitely consider you to be one of the better content creators with regards to BMW type stuff. At least in my top five list LOL. Have a great day!
Excellent video! Allowed my son and me to make our way through this challenging task- your instruction and attention to detail were incredible and much appreciated. Thank you!!
One of things that I like to do with the chains/guides is to put them in a pan and pre-soak them in oil or assembly lube and then let them drain overnight. That way there is never a chance that they are rubbing against one another with something to help lubricate them. It makes assembly a tad messier, but it give me a little piece of mind. It is probably overkill, but then again I'm pretty good at overkill.
Thank you so much for the detailed video. This will really help during my next project. I was just going to use the Chinese kit. I am so glad I came accross your video.
I remember I used a small mallet to place the blocks snug in there. I did not use them as leverage to loosen the bolts i used the wrench better. Cuz the blocks will go to the right and you’ll just waste another 5 min lining them up. Its a pain but with patience it can be done. Another issue I encountered now I remember was the tensioner block the thread was messed up i could not insert the bolt holder all the way. It went side ways like if it was cross threaded so I dealt like that lol i was able to get the tension at least. Got what I paid i guess lol. Great job 👏.
Lot of part numbers on the website doesn't show match, y searched every part number you put on description and in some show results bot on another ones says no results to show, please update the parts needed thanks, also tried to look for the toming tool too couldn't find it
sorry for having 3 of these, lol. But, just watching and comment as I'm going through...it's like I'm live tweeting. Anyway, just a thought; if the GAS timing tensioner tool has a smaller diameter bolt that should be "turned twice", and the Chinese tool has a larger diameter, then you might be over-tightening the tensioner by doing it twice (maybe it should be one and half turns)? Not sure it matters that much, just a thought.
What a excellent video!! Thumbs up. Made my work way easier. Only one question; you can undo the tensioner to mount the front covers and then the oil tensioner will take it over ?
I have also bought chinese stuff, for my diesel M57 X5; a injector puller tool.. well, It needed a bit modifying to work and not break the injector parts before using. I also recommend to buy always quality tools with as specify stuff as this seem to be. This guide is nice to watch even I dont have this V8 model X5 :)
27mm wrench at homedepot is $10, also if the have oil separator there is a small set screw (allen head) in the u-shaped guide you need to remove and add to new part; it presses to fitting to keep it tight. Some say to use red loctite on the sprocket bolt only. My bolts looked discolored like loctite had been used.
I don't see an oil separator (the funnel like thing) in my Range Rover 2003. I don't see it in your car either. Was that a model specific thing ? Can you confirm you didn't have on behind your fixed guide on the driver side ?
best video i have seen on this job which most people would not take on good job i have a mate that can do it qualified mechanic but i know so much about my range rover l322 v8 THANKS
Hello. I have replaced the vanos units for the second time now, I followed the same process and this time around, when i took the locking blocks off in the back of bank 1, the intake cam was NOT under preload and it didn’t rotate forward like last time, i can move the cam with the wrench back forth and lock it back in place with the blocks without any issues, there is zero tension on that cam. The position of the cam is way of from how they are here in the video. Please advise
First to make a real comment... awesome video and that's is a nice cute 1/4" nm torque wrench. Much to learn in this video and a lesson in not buying the cheap set
Also why is almost everything from 'china' shîtty. Is tolerance not in their vocabulary? I thinking I still have a way to feel about that gift they gave to world called Covid and would like to return it like most china stuff I end up getting...
These are great videos 50s kid. Thanks for taking the time to make them. Quick question. If all I need to do is replace upper timing cover gaskets and valve cover gaskets, do I have to mess with the timing chain at all or can I simply R&R the valve covers, upper timing chain covers, solenoids, tensioner, gaskets etc. and reverse the process. I had my timing chain guides fairly recently and don't think I need to go all the way.
I ran into an issue where i do not get continuity through the pass sode vanos and when i torque it down and crank it over the pass side intake cam pops clockwise and does not come back into time after the 720 turn
what do i do if when i take the lock blocks off the cars the passanger cam turns a tiny bit when i remove the blocks and idk how to get it to stay in line once then locks are off
great video, curious if you have come across yourself or someone you know not getting continuity when turning to stop on sprockets. I have rebuilt both with Besian systems kits.
Unfortunately, the bottom diver side bolt on the U shaped guide can't be tightened down with the chain in place. So, it has to be in and torqued prior to putting the chain on.
I just followed your procedure from start to finish and nowhere in the procedure did you mention that top dead center needs to line up with a notch. I put everything back together and thought I was in time but when I went to start it it didn’t start and realized after extensive research the engine was not timed
Best timing chain video by far. Thanks! Did I miss it or did you forget to put those 3 trianglish gaskets that you took out after the chain rubberish rail whatever it's called?
You know, I wasn't actually thinking about it because I remember reading that they are not as easily serviceable as the M54 ones and not as prone to failure, however your question caused me to look into it just now and I see that ecstuning offers a proprietary kit. Might consider this.
@@50sKid Surprised you don't know about Besian Systems for the VANOS rebuild. Everyone uses his stuff. Not easy but not difficult. His instructions are really good and well worth it.
@@davesvarczkopf I do know, that was my second stop after reading the ECS tuning document. ;-) They are just using the tools & kits made by beisan systems. I did buy them.
Oh yeah, and also, not all M10 (or whatever) bolts have the same torque spec. www.e38.org/bmw_torq.pdf . For instance, an M10x8.8 is 47nm, M10x10.9 is 66nm, and M10x12.9 is 79nm. Just something to keep in mind. Edit: also, if you zip tie straight up over the edge of the vanos, you can leave it in until the timing covers are in place and then cut it and pull it out the top easily.
great series the internal colour of the engine looks in great condition I stripped mine down and its looks completely brown / burnt also lots of build up of oil deposits in every nook could this be a bad oil pump ?
45:53 when you begin rotating the engine after timing it, why does the cam position impulse sensing wheel (no idea if its called that) not move through all of the turn?
Great video. Super helpful to us DIYers! Quick question- do you add any RTV to exposed portion of upper pan when reassembling lower timing cover? Old guides are intact and I wasn’t planning on removing the upper oil pan to regasket the whole thing. Thanks and keep up the great content!
You may cringe when I say this but I put my cam shafts back in without any special tools. If you notice @7:50" those blocks you are mentioning facing up, they are also square shaped. I noticed they line up perfectly when I took them out. I put a straight edge on them and the two of them make a perfect line. So as long as you don't move the crankshaft, and those blocks line up, you'll be good. Mine was a 1995 M60b30 (no vanos).
dude, in your country do you have the 525tds. this engine is the worst for its fuel pump. i want to learn a lot about that please. why because that engine was found in range rovers P38 models. Omegas 2.5, bmw 3 series and 5 series. can you find one.???
I didn't mean that I would torque it to exact spec by hand. Torque figures for smaller M6 and M8 bolts are really there to prevent you from over-torquing and snapping the head of the bolt off. I can avoid doing that when hand-torquing, is what I mean.
@@50sKid Ah, I see :) Does that work when dealing with gaskets? Like when installing a water pump, I would assume that the torque should be as even even as possible all along the surface.
I have a 1999 bmw 540i station wagon. I am in the middle of the same job you are doing and think you are awesome. Is my car an E something? I see many references, E this number or that number. How can I learn that about my car? I do not see that information on the car. I do not understand, this is elusive information that everyone knows but me. Frustrating.
No wonder people hate M62TU engines...if they try to use those cheap kits. I cannot see why you can't just mark things up before removing anything. It should be accurate enough to use a straight edge across the upper timing covers to work out where the wheels should be when the cams are locked. Of course, if somebody has already been in there then the tools are necessary.
You can modify a torque wrench to be accurate in reverse direction very easily by reversing the mecanism. Look at this video:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KQAsdfEgmeU.html (sorry its in french, i didn't find equivalent in english. Thanks for the video.
I'll be honest. If your doing a how to video for something. It probably shouldn't be your very first time doing this job. I saw a lot of issues that could spell trouble for someone following this.
That'd the wrong kit for what you are trying to do if you have to cut do modifications it's the wrong kit. Come on ffs man I mean for god sake now the world is going to end 😢. Great video would be more faithful if you didn't cut the kit you wrongly thought was the right one. Best of luck hope it goes great but this not 4 me 😢😮