Part 2 BMW M62TU V8 Complete Timing Procedure 540i 740i X5 E38 E39 E53 

IanBtheInventor how did it go

@@horriblecodplayer3 He is still working on it ;)

Thank you for watching

Can you swap 1999 BMW 740il v8 for a 2003 BMW x5 4.4il engine

Why is this?? I’m having this issue on my rebuilt vanos’ by dr. Vanos

you might have to take the vanos apart and clean it out there maybe garbage in it, it falls apart in 2 pieces

They are interference engines so yes. Pistons will hit valves and bend them

What did you findout to do? I think I'm going to have to have take off the vanos an camshafts an correct them so they line up tdc with the pin at the transmission an Timing cover

Clicking? Possibly thats just the lifters pumping up, common.

Bump

Correct this video only covers timing procedure not camshaft install

+Nathan's DIY Garage yes, there was a part in this video you went to cam and spoke about removal as you walked through the timing process. That's why I ask..

Hey i have the same question do you remember how you got rid of the ziptie at the end

VW uses the same style of lifters. They "should be" stiff / solid / "pumped-up" with oil. When the piston moves much / easily... the lifter is not pumped-up (lacking oil), that is what causes the ticking sound. Your lifters are fine. I'm not sure what his reasoning is / was in stating what he did.

I agree, it doesn't seem like a big deal for a shop who does a lot of timing jobs. Maybe it's a common occurrence that once they put it all together, there is a good chance the computer still throws a code, and then that costs them 10 more hours. The crank bolt laughed at a 1/2" air impact wrench. I tried building a fixture out of angle iron, but it just twisted and ripped. Hacking it was just not working out and was wasting a lot of time and money. So I ended up ordering the crank holder from Pelican parts and got four M8x30 hex bolts at the hardware store (upsetting it didn't come with those). I got a 3/4" breaker bar and 27mm air impact socket from Harbor Freight. The 27mm socket was 1/2" drive, so I used a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter made for air impact. I propped the crank holder handle on a pile of bricks and put a 3ft iron pipe over the breaker bar. At that point, the bolt came loose almost too easily. The right tools for the right job! This was as of last night, so I have a lot of work ahead.

did you get it done

@@BmwMe-uh9sy Yes, it's done! Fired right up, purrs along. I seem to have gotten the timing right.

@@curtmcd yay good for you enjoy the 540i 6 speed manual , did you use the german auto solutions kit and how did you remove the crank bolt

@@BmwMe-uh9sy See earlier comment on crank bolt. I used a $100 timing kit from ebay and it was fine.

I’ve got this same question.

Long handle razor with chinese fingers

This is a really important question I hope he answers

I was wondering the same thing.

You put the zip tie as far up on the guide as you can, it don't have to be tight, just tight enough so the chain don't come loose. (You actually don't have to zip the guides, you can just zip the chain together.) Mount the lower chain cover, put in the chain tensioner "finger tight". Take a plier to hold the zip tie and cut it with a side cuter or something. Job done.

If just the v guide is bad in my x5, could i just replace that and the main chain?

Lonnie W Wilder Jr most of he time the lifters are good in these engines

i wish i knew the answer. i now have the china tool kit to time it and not sure if i should use it. please let me know if you figured out the answer.

The bolts that hold the pump on are slotted, and that lets you slide the pump to tighten the chain however I think you have to remove the oil pan

I heard most people just use some type of gasket sealer generously as to replace that seal would require removing the upper oil pan which involves removing the subframe and supporting the engine from above. I have my engine stripped down to where I need the timing set tools (comes in the next day or two) and I plan on using gasket sealer instead of removing the upper oil pan. That being said my oil pump chain is loose so I may have to anyways.

Im pretty sure they are different, i have one here if you find out they are the same

You must take all 3 timing chain covers off and the valve covers to get to the U-shaped guide

1+

Anthony Hernandez just remake sure the Gould don't fall down when you remove the passenger timing case

Thank you for the quick response. I'm walking out the door I'll have to rewatch the 1st video where you took off the tensioner. It's embarrassing but i'm not sure what this "gould" is so hopefully re-watching it will make sense. again thank you for the video & quick response. -Anthony

A quick google shows the tensioner parts that are involved. Not sure if the "gould" is one of these parts (possibly the tensioner shaft?) cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-X5/105-ENGINE-M62_Engine_Upper_Timing_Cover_Gasket_and_VANOS_Solenoid_Replacement/images_small/pic32.jpg

+Terrence Banton could be, also check the fuse box in the passenger floor under the carpet

I will look for it

There's no fuse box under the carpet

Well you have to leave the flywheel on for timing purposes, other than that just use bolts and nuts that are long enough, on the passenger side i use the lower starter bolt hole

Logan Gardner yes the problem is if you are using the cheap eBay timing kit, apparently the vanos jigs are not accurate enough, also the German auto solutions kit is the only one that works, the whole kit is anodized red.

Nathan's DIY Garage so you think the problem is in the kit jigs? I purchased it of Amazon and they are not the red ones. Came in a blue box, but are just plane metal black.

I have these same exact codes after timing chain job. did you end up re-timing? I found a lot of other minor possible solutions. I know it can range from wrong oil, debris, sensor and or timing. look forward to hearing from you. thx

Did you ever get rid of the codes?

Gerald Portnoy it can be done either way, but it’s way easier with the engine out.

Hmmm that would have to be the mail chain off slightly, did you use the tensioner tool and snug it by hand? Did you let the passenger chain guide fall down when you were putting the cover on?

Nathan's DIY Garage well it was done by a mechanic and he close it. he had the zip tie on it. i wish somehow i can send you pictures. sometimes on cold weather you can feel the engine has like a small vibration. revs fine and accelerates great.

Sounds like he messed up the timing

Ouch....

Was it a bmw shop that did it?

They are the same guides

Nathan's DIY Garage thanks for the reply I have another question I have the timing tool for the vanos engine can I use the same tool and just skip the vanos step with the voltmeter ? Or is it a different timing tool for the non vanos

You can facebook me and i will send you my phone # if you still need help

Ultra grey, direct replacement sealer for toyota and honda, you can buy it at oreilleys

A 2005 645 has the n62 not the m62tu and no the chain doesent stretch

Thank you Ser your the best but do you think 5000 to fix is good, he said it's a week worth of work, I just want someone honest to do it and not take my pockets

You will have to remove both valve covers and both upper timing chain covers and you will need the m62tu timing tool kit

Nathan's DIY Garage got ya. thank you sir. so at simplest way as of right now, i will check it with voltmeter as soon as open the valve cover.

you wont be able to tell by that, you will have to re-time it with that code

Re time it again?? Wow. Was just thinking to check it just in case. Would putting new manual chain tensioner could fix something?

+Hakim Scott The m60 engines have a sprocket instead of guides but the m62 pre vanos fail just as fast ad the TU engines, its not a terrible job as long as you dont get one that the chain had de-railed and bends the valves, every BMW shop will swear to you they do this timing job all the time but when it comes down to it 99% of them wont touch it, they just want to swap the engine, the problem is that usually the engine they swap into it needs guides also lol

I have an M60 and got oil pressure warning while driving fast then i backed off gas & engine gently seized while i was coasting to a stop. Was able to limp home after engine cooled down. A few aluminium shavings in oil filter afterwards. Long story short, my stupid mechanics had no idea what the problem was, so i investigated & found bits of plastic had fallen into sump and were sucked onto grill on intake to oil pump, blocking it, so i removed junk from sump & drove it for a while gently afterwasrds and it smoothed out and ran ok for 6 months, then suddenly developed very nasty rattle and i stopped driving it. I reckon the plastic i pulled out of sump couldve been a broken up sprocket, or bits of a guide. This was 4 years ago before these youtube videos were appearing. I remember poring over engine diagrams and i don't remember seeing anything like the timing chain guides, though it was a long time ago. Does the M60 not have guides like the M62 in this video? I fired the engine up yesterday after 4 years and it stll runs with rattle. With M60, is it likely i can get away with just replacing a sprocket, borrow the timing kit from someone, and checking the timing is ok? Ta for any advice!

Have just been looking at a few other pages to refresh my memory, and it sounds like the M60 uses almost exactly the same tensioner & guide rails as the M62? Halp can you pls explain what you meant when you said M60 has sprocket instead of guides...thanks.

Aaah i think i've worked it out, the sources who say M60 is exactly the same are wrong... the tensioner & guides are mostly identical but the m60 has a sprocket at the bottom of the V shaped guide in the middle, and people say the sprocket is much more reliable & causes less wear than the plastic V shaped guide without sprocket. Nevertheless, it seems to me even with my M60 & sprocket, some plastic from one of the guides has disintegrated.

The mark on the pulley will be up and slightly to the passenger side of the engine, turn the crank bolt with one hand while inserting the crank pin with the other is the easiest way

so about the 10 oclock mark? it looks like it aims straight up between the two cams on the passenger side

probably 11 oclock, thats only a starting point so you can get it clost to dropping in the pin, do not try to set timing without the pin

i agree 100% i have just read (probably misinformation) that there is more than one hole that the pin can go into

the other holes are not close to the hole for the pin