Presented brilliantly Tony . I look forward to more of your videos.After 41 years of doing the job.And coming through all the changes.And there have been many .I find watching your videos is keeping me interested.Thank you.And when you have a bad day and things go wrong ie silicone runs reactions off colour.Please don't be afraid to show us.we have all been there.By the way I hope they don't. But some times we have them days.but we learn from them.All the best Tony to you all....
+deno booth thanks deno appreciate the comments , and I'm planning on getting some mess up and how to fix videos live soon to help guys out with just those sort of problems as I think they are some areas that get neglected and your right those days are the days that teach us to be better
Brilliant video Tony,takes me back to when my work mate the car body repairer & paint sprayer who sprayed my Ming yellow Anglia at the garage where we worked back in 1968, memories, well done, excellent job done Tony..( I wonder how much that Anglia would cost now to do full respray?) Think mine then, was about £100 all materials,paint, everything & labour,although I did a lot of the labour lol .Again well done & thanks 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Mad thing is I live in Manchester and moving to Oz next week. I've got to get my head around working in the heat and not the cold. your doing good fella, keep the good work real.
Your videos keep me sane! Many thanks for all the useful commentary,I shall now attempt the repair of a seriously damaged rear door on my mondeo , juice green with rattle cans ....should be interesting, cheers
Very informative set of videos and having inspected finished the finished article, the paintwork mirrors the quality of the videos.By now you should have a joint picture of a rebuilt race Anglia I used in the 1960's (by Mr P),they really complement each other.True excellence is very obvious,
+dave Willars hi Dave , yes George sent me the picture through earlier of the race anglia and this sat side by side , have to say the race one looks stunning, and Thankyou very much for the kind words and also for taking the time to view the videos on the anglia Dave , really appreciate you taking the time to watch , Tony
Great job Tony, my 65 is also the original factory yellow color, I'm hoping to learn from your videos when I'm ready to paint, my restoration is about 90% complete.
well mate that is a lovely finish I said before you and gunny are my favourites so to have him recommend you is great .keep up the great work and I wish I could paint as well as you pair
+cornishcat11 thanks I have to say it was great to be asked as I myself have followed him from the start and spoken to him a few times , genuinely nice guy to chat to aswell , and lol I'm just an average painter mate but put a lot of effort and time into making my work the best I can
another stunning job mate, love the new look, info, everything,, dont know how you could make the vids any better but im sure you will,, you are the Bossman
Great work as usual Tony, just wondered how you would have compared the final finish if you had flow coated rather than wet sanded and polished?I have been following you and the Gunman for years now and have learned such a lot from you both ,keep up the good work,look forward to the next video.By the way the format and presentation of your video's is fantastic.
+Derek Wheatley thanks for the nice comments mate and Thankyou for watching too , glad we both could help you on your journey , thanks I've put slot of time into trying to get a format that works and is watchable too and as time goes on il be putting more time into making this better and better , love a flow coat for sure lol but for a job like this I would much rather flat and polish by hand in this way , a flow coat on a light colour can sometimes be dangerous , any bit of dust or dirt in the clear would show through so easily
Nice job! When painting how much paint do you mix up before hand to be able to do the complete car and can you put your reducer in as well and let it sit until you finish your first hopper of paint. As a first time painter I never thought about it until I watched your #3 video that you should have extra paint mixed ahead of time so your not stopping to mix paint while it's drying on the car and so you can keep a wet edge. You make it look so easy and again I love your technique, your so smooth at it. Thank you for all the tips I'm anxious to paint my car but still have some body work to do and a ton of prep! Wish me luck lol. Great videos , lots of tips and info.
2 pots is usually enough for a full coat of direct gloss over a complete shell like this so I would mix 2 pots and mix everything into it reducer hardener the works , as I’d be moving so quickly round the car there’s no issue with mixing that way and the pot life on paint is quite long even when mixed with hardener
Hello Tony, great content, probably the clearest and most informative on RU-vid! I keep watching this Anglia series over and over simply because I just love watching it! Could you please tell me how many litres of 2k primer and 2k direct gloss this job used? Doors, bonnet and boot included. Also, if you don't mind, could you please tell me how many litres you would have used if you had done a full respray? i.e. interior, underside, engine bay and boot space included. Thank you in advance should you get back to me.
thnaks jack thats great to hear , id say a safe bet would be to order 5 litres of 2k colour and 2.5 of hardener to go with it and a 4 litre primer kit should be enough for what you want
Thanks Tony, I appreciate you getting back to me. It's for my '71 Mk1 Escort and I've never done an interior respray on top of the exterior respray so thanks for your helpful opinion. Keep up the quality work and content!
Great videos - very helpful thank you. I notice some cars you take the doors off etc and paint seperate and others you do the jams first and then paint the doors etc all at once. I'm doing my first car right now and wonder which is the best way. I read somewhere that there may be color matching problems if not all painted at once. Would welcome your advise here if you have time. (BTW the cars red). Thanks a lot
Either way is perfectly fine mate all you need to do is put the same amount of coats down on each panel and the same amount of clear so say 3 coats of base 2 clear and use the same gun settings everything will match in fine
+Vasilis Karadimos lovely , Greece is by far my favourite country in the world , have visited many islands over the years and love the culture , history , food and people
I don't like Ming yellow and I don't like purbeck grey, my anglia is purbeck grey my partner and myself are in two opinions he wants Ming yellow and I want purbeck grey because you shouldn't change the coulour of a classic but try telling him that though, great vids lots of information.
This was an excellent series...very informative! If I could ask a question: in your professional opinion, if a DIYer had a car of similar vintage (direct gloss painted when new) and wanted to respray the car in the same color, would you recommend going direct gloss or basecoat/clearcoat? Obviously if the owner was going for a concours-quality restoration they'd do direct gloss for authenticity, but if was just to make the car clean and presentable, which would be the better choice for somebody with a more limited skill set?
Direct gloss for sure there’s a lot less that can go wrong and if it does it’s a lot easier to put right a job like this in base and clear is not for the faint hearted at all really
Hi Tony, can I use the grip coat on metalic basecoats ? I am learning much from you, I am redoing an Audi B3, so far, so good. Keep up the great content mate.
Great video, sprayed my 1968 Mk2 Cortina recently in 2 pack Ermine White. What compounds would you suggest to refine the paint if you only have hand power and no machine - thanks.
so would the main advantage of using solid on a car like this be ease of finishing compared to clear over base? I painted my brothers 69 Dodge Charger in cob Devil Yellow and I'm about to paint the girlfriends Holden Gemini in Octane Orange which is non metallic also. So not sure on whether to go cob or solid. They both seem to come out nice on cars and locomotives that I used to paint.
+Plant Powered Health hi , main advantages straight off the bat are cost and unless it's a red coverage too , with a solid colour one full wet coat usually covers then the next one or two are just for build compared to base in a colour like this that would need 3/6 to colour up then 2/3 coats of clear for the kind of look and finish we were after so there's a lot of time and labour saved too , these days good quality direct gloss paints can vary as good as clear over base
borrowing comments for another technical question :) from time to time I need a semi-gloss or satin clearcoat but the matte 2k CC is just too dull for me. is it okay to mix matte with gloss to get the sheen somewhere in-between? tnx
+seasonedtoker best thing to do is get some gloss clearcoat and add matting agent , do a few test mixes with different amounts of additive till you get the right effect and then note it down and run with that mix
+Paul Baker my bad guys I should have said in the video , around the tops and tight areas I use a 3" air polisher to get in the right gaps and small areas
+Josh Kritzky my bad guys I should have said in the video , around the tops and tight areas I use a 3" air polisher to get in the tight gaps and small areas
Awesome. yeah I've gotta buy one of those little polishers some time soon. Any thoughts or opinions on cheapo nason 2k direct gloss? Think a gallon kit with reducer/hardener can be had for around $130 usd
