POR-15 Why it fails: My opinion 

If you want to get por 15 off of anything it’s on, you better do it while it’s wet and wipe it with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner.

For sure. The things you learn along the way. I appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching, subscribe for continued content. I try to up load at least once a week.

@@RealWorldGarage It’s crazy the uses it has. You can put a amount around the rust hole than push the fiberglass on it than brush Por 15 over it. Once it dries you will have a solid filled hole.

@@adamfrench8735 I helped a friend a few years ago on a “rust o ration” project. It was before I was serious with my YT videos. But if you look in my videos way way back, I had some tutorials on a 67 mustang brakes and turn signal switch. That was the car. I did the front floor pans, it was a Fred Flinstone. But the rear pans were mostly ok. When I hit them with a wire wheel there were pin holes, but nothing serious. He didn’t have the money and I didn’t have the time to replace them. So I coated the rear pan with POR and laid stranded fiberglass in it then dabbed POR into the fiberglass. I let it dry then took a light and checked again and repeated the process, until it was sealed up. It’s rust proof/ “resistant”( nothing is 💯 perfect LOL) but since the car is now parked inside and they only drive it on fair days, it should last their lifetime. I have pictures of the car in progress and after it came from the upholstery shop, on my Real World Garage FB page.

If it’s clean bare metal I would be looking for an epoxy type primer sealer. Sandable primer is fine if you’re going to top coat it soon. The epoxy primer will hold in there.

I’m seeing I missed your comment, sometimes YT notifications don’t always come through properly. I appreciate you watching and commenting. ✌️ hope your project is going well!!

Indeed. Thanks for watching and commenting!!!

Awesome!! I hope to be getting back on it soon!!! I’ve taken a loooong break from it for several reasons. I did get the engine built and broken in back at Christmas!! Thanks for watching and commenting.

It’s good stuff!! Thanks for watching and commenting ✌️

Indeed, the POR-15 needs something to “bite” onto. It’s a great product and I have used it in unconventional ways over the years with great success. Thanks for watching and commenting ✌️

What is your source that says the factory requires that

Indeed. Thanks for watching and commenting!!!

Definitely agree with that. The por-15 needs something to bite onto.

@JRESHOW to be honest, I don’t know that por-15 is your best option for frame rail rust prevention. If you were restoring it and had the body off of the frame and had it stripped where you could get it on all points It would be fine. Por-15 is an excellent product to protect metal on a restoration project, but needs to be applied to all of the hidden nooks and cranny’s while it’s broken down. I have another RU-vidr guy that I have been watching for years that lives in the rust belt areas of Avoca, New York. He really knows his stuff, and is a mechanics mechanic. Put the following in the search bar| south main auto rust proofing | and look at some of his krown and fluid film rust proofing videos. In my opinion this is really the way to go. If I lived in the rust belt This is what I’d be doing. You’ll need to mechanically remove the rust by wire wheel, scrapers, screw drivers, and possibly hand wire brushes. The beauty of the fluid film type products is the can be sprayed over the top of everything, there are hose and spray nozzle adapters where you can spray inside frame rails or even inside body panels. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.

If it was on a finished surface like an external body panel, sure shiny metal and epoxy primer sealer. But many times on these old cars in out of the way hidden places, it’s sometimes pitted, but still solid enough. I just don’t feel like spending the time anymore. I’ll be dead and gone before it’s a problem for someone else, I want to enjoy the car before I’m pushing daisies.

Tell that to my 54 ford, restored using por 15 over 20 years ago. 😂 if top coated rust hasn’t come back. The only places that had rust come back were places where we couldn’t get the por 15.

Interesting, 20 years is a good test! I built a steel frame trailer to carry my homebuilt airplane in 2011, it was bare metal when I first put it on the salty winter road, a few years later I gave it the full 3 step POR15 treatment it's been 6 years the trailer has been outside in the rain and snow, no rust at all on it, the sun has made it a little faded but no rust at all.

Yes, the black por-15 has no UV protection, but they say it will get a little Chalky looking but it won’t hurt it or make it release.

@michaelwoods3850, too bad you got it completely wrong. If the rusty surface is sealed it CANNOT rust further because it has no access to oxygen. Rust is iron atoms combining with oxygen atoms. Once you prevent O2 from reaching the iron the rust is STOPPED.

Any shiny metal needs to be etched with their metal prep, or something like it. The por seems to like sticking to the natural iron oxide finish better than anything else.

@@RealWorldGarage okay got it. Going to follow the kit .

Sorry I missed your comment and have such a late reply. This was a trick an old body man showed me. 2 reasons, 1) when you take the lid off of the can and por-15 gets on the rim, it will dry and you can’t easily remove the lid without destroying it. 2) the product has a tendency to cure in the can after the lid is removed, it seems to do better if you just poke a couple of holes, one to pour out product and the other so it will vent and allow it to pour smoothly. ✌️ thanks for watching and commenting, again I apologize for missing the comment. The way YT delivers them sometimes I miss them.

It’s all good thank you

Por patch first then scuff it, then por-15. Make sure you hit it with a good top coat.

I haven’t seen an advertisement for Raymond’s car show. I will keep an eye open for it. I’m just over in Byram.

I think you’ll end up with problems for BONDO to stick properly. Por15 dries so hard I don’t think you could get a good bite. In this case I think I’d be looking at a rust converter and a kitty hair green filler, it’s supposed to be water proof. Once it’s repaired you might be able to hit the backside of it with some por15. Wheel arches are a tough repair to make last with out cutting out and replacing the metal. But I get it, you’re trying to make your daily live a little longer. I’m going to assume you live in the salt belt?? Or at least where they salt sometimes??

@@RealWorldGarage Thanks for your reply. Yes I live where salt is everywhere on the road during winter (Quebec, Canada) If it could hold up up to 2 years I'll be very happy. It make sense that the filler won't stick well to por15...I guess you're right a rust converter is very good idea!

@@borderline666 yeah it’s a bit tough to keep your stuff nice in the rust belt. I live in the Southern US, Mississippi, and unless you’re right on the coast we don’t have these kinds of rust issues.

Yeah, the bare metal needs to be weathered, has been my experience with it. Thanks for watching and commenting

Thanks for watching and commenting. First let me say, I don’t have any affiliation to anyone I suggest, I make nothing from my suggestions. Now that said, I follow several rust belt guys and who use Fluid film. There’s a couple guys who make their own concoction using toilet wax rings and used engine oil. But that seems like a bunch of work. I don’t envy you salt road guys. Now with all that said Fluid Film seems like one of the best products, I don’t live in the “rust belt” but I do work on old cars where 60,70 years of being in the weather has taken its toll. But the places that had oil or grease leaked on them are nearly pristine. So the Fluid film seems like a great idea. In places it can get washed off over time and will require a little touch up occasionally. I’d say after initial treatment you’d need to make sure it has a good coat in the wash off areas in fall before your snow season. www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-11-75-Spray-6-pak/dp/B00CLTXPX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=61744205651&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqPGUBhDwARIsANNwjV6TszHgjtECaQmjn9NM2wvmUF6HhHn4eEIq47H3_B4AGKJrN1akQBoaAu2rEALw_wcB&hvadid=409941498673&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9013954&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13945798176696227341&hvtargid=kwd-299084692026&hydadcr=8581_11326186&keywords=lanolin+spray&qid=1654436956&sr=8-4

This is one of the guys I follow myself, he’s a great mechanic. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QiIym5JiMOc.html

@@RealWorldGarage Thank you for the reply. Been watching Eric O for years. He's awesome. Problem is I don't live in the rust belt. We don't undercoat cars in Denver. The Rust Belt guys always have advice but it's tailored for their area with salt and humidity. I tried an oil based undercoating like Fluid Film and it doesn't set up the same out here in a low humidity environment

@@DJR5280 that’s a shame. Maybe the concoction method then. There’s some guys making one out of wax toilet bowl seals and used oil.

@@DJR5280 have you watched Mustie 1?? This is one of his concoctions. Seems like he’s tried several things. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LWHISQ_1Lik.html

Yes, many times.

Mine hasn’t.

Correct, and what I see a lot of folks do is, put it right over fresh shiny metal. Nope not going to stick, it will peel off in sheets. Put it over surface rust/iron oxide, it sticks and protects forever. I see to many people thinking that the have to remove that stuff from the metal for it to work. Sure if you’re working on an exterior panel, and you’re working to get a factory or better finish on it. But on sub-structures and things that get covered up to never be seen again paint it on and forget about it.

Thanks more to come, just not as fast as I’d like.