POR15 is crap. I will never use POR15 again. 

Uses product incorrectly, makes video explaining how product was used incorrectly. Way to go! Lovely tutorial for anyone wanting to know what not to do!!

Sometimes, directions are useful.

We love it. You didnt listen to any of the directions. It clearly states use at Temps above 70 degrees and you didnt use the adhesion compound which is evident in this video. POR15 works wonderfully when applied correctly.

It appears that somebody forgot to read the directions...

Industrial Coatings Inspector here. I've sworn by POR-15 for years. It's obvious that you didn't follow the application instructions. That'd never happen if it was applied correctly. Sorry you had a bad experience with it, but I can assure you that it wasn't an issue with the product.

So glad this is still up. I think this is the only video where I've read ALL the comments. Absolutely hilarious! This is the same guy who would leave a negative review for a screwdriver because he used it as a chisel or pry bar and it broke. Classic.

Congrats on making a damn fool of yourself. Be sure to leave the video up so we will never forget.

1,read instructions or have someone read them to you, 2, leave man's work to men. 3, get inside and finish the dishes and laundry your mom's coming home...

To the people saying this stuff is crap, it's probably safe to assume you didn't follow the three step process. If you did, perhaps you didn't make sure the degreaser/cleaner got everything. You also got to make sure the metal prep stays wet for at least 30min. After the proper prep is done, make sure everything is completely dry before applying POR15. Stir the paint and pour what you will use into a seperate container. Apply two thin coats. The second coat must be applied while the first coat is just past tacky. A little bit of friction while running your finger along the paint means it's ready for the second coat. The painting process must be done within the proper temperatures. This stuff works if applied properly. It really does.

Just did the frame on my 73 Ford Highboy. Looks amazing and hard as nails. Follow directions carefully. Do all 3 steps. I am also in the middle of a heat wave and applied it at 75 to 80 degrees in the middle of the night.

Did you use the POR15 metal prep? Instructions are in the kit.

Por 15 is paint over rust. That's what the por stands for, it's like any other paint. If you dont prep correctly, it won't adhere

You mention that you did the first stage, cleaning (step 1), but i didn't hear anything about the prep stage (step2) with the phosphoric acid etch and phosphate conversion. Nor do I see any evidence of the phosphate conversion on the exposed frame. So did you skip the prep step?

You must use the zinc coat and apply at a higher temperature. And if you are gonna film with a phone, hold it in landscape.

Did you use the metal etch?

My Grandpa has been spraying it for years. Then again he knows what he’s doing.

Works great for me. Doesn't look like you used a metal etcher before hand. From my experience its best used on etched surfaces or moderately rusty surfaces that have been wire brushed in order to adhere the por15. Any area that was smooth, will also peel off for me.

The metal needs more “tooth”, meaning either more porous metal or rust pits to help adhere the paint. Metal etch helps too. The frame appeared to have been sanded with too fine a grit. Wouldn’t hurt to make a few passes with a sandblaster so to make the metal more abrasive.

Its not paint its a coating you sir are a fool lol no one els has problems

my 72 skylark had por-15 done on the chassis 15 years ago still looks like it was applied yesterday you must have done something wrong

did you etch the steel with the prep? it sticks to zinc phosphate not clean steel it's not a typical coating

I’ve sprayed it on a lot of commercial stuff and personal stuff never ever had any problems or seen any peeling like yours but I’m glad you getting away from it that means they’ll be more on the shelves lol

no rust-- and or not sandblasted--too cold for application

This is classic, makes a video instead of being mad at himself for failing to follow instructions. The only think he did wrong is no etch. Nothing sticks to bare metal, aside from powder coating which creates a covalent bond, if you do not etch the surface. I can’t wait for the next video of how the krylon primer didn’t stick either, because it wasn’t etch primer and he applied it at 50 degrees. Spoiler alert, many adhesives don’t stick at certain temps.

Have you tried KBS?

id take a guess you used a silicone based product somewhere, or it changed formulations never seen it do this

My experience with rust encapsulators have been similar. They peel off in sheets and allow rust to form underneath. This stuff might work ok on other metals but I am no longer using it in automotive applications.

Weird I did my obs 4 years ago shit prep work no degreaser still there lol my 2012 22k miles on it this year still holding on the truck weird could be a bad batch man I paint brush it on are you mixing it ?

You have to use a etching product por15 prep solve first , they have prep to use before painting , I have it on my dually chassis over light rust , 12 years still there but I used muradic acid in a pump up sprayer first then pressure washed chassis then painted it via a spray gun .

I had the same problem when I used it. Got my frame nice and clean, it did the same thing. People on here will defend it saying oh it’s gotta have some rust you gotta use this or that. As far as I’m concerned, it a product can’t stick to bare, degreased metal… it’s trash. Especially for that price. You should have to have the perfect light coat of rust. Some people have good luck with it, but I don’t.

As a coating specialist for a major coatings manufacturer for 20 years, and a production powder coating company owner for 30 years, I can suggest to you that no coating can glue itself down thru improper surface preparation. When a coating lifts in sheets, there was something on the surface that prevented the coating from properly adhering before cure/dry took place. Have to follow directions and be smarter than the parts your painting.

I just found that it wasn't that much better than cheap rust paint. The one time I used it, it was many times more expensive, was difficult to work with, and didn't prevent the rust from coming back. I'll just use Rustoleum from now on. I can just reapply in a couple of years.

Metal Prep??

On this particular application the metal is not oxidized enough. If you are going to apply it onto cleaned or barely rusted metal like this, you have to use the self-etcher.

I'm an industrial spray painter and custom car guy,Iv never ever seen a product that can stick to that much rust.Even at work today and were rust is heavy on structured steel.I clean the surface 99 percent also after clean grinding alway clean with thinner opens the pores.Clean is key Por.15 in king.😂

Looks like some steps were skipped. I’ve used it several times over the years and the places I had any issues were tough to get to spots where I couldn’t prep it right. Where it WAS prepped right it has never failed in the least. It’s a pain following all the steps because one wants it done, but it doesn’t matter how clean you think it is, if you don’t do it as instructed, it won’t hold. Don’t blame the wreck on the train.

What will you use?

It is an unpredictable product as you said in the header. Used correctly you would not have any problems. Used incorrectly it will sometimes work but most times will not. You shot it in a cold garage, did not prep the metal properly, moisture condensed on the metal from the cold as you were spraying and you did not use the recommended thinner. When directions are followed nothing will affect this paint. When you do it your way because you know best you got the expected results, too bad for you. Boo-hoo.

Operator Error 🤦🏻

Very strange, I've used it for the past 20 year and never had peeling and it never come off....I think you need to apply in a hotter temperature...

I use rust converter and then paint. It is an easy process, not expensive, and lasts quite a while. POR15 is not as great as they say. It is a pain in the ass to apply and corrodes from the edges. It is also very expensive. I use Gemplers bought online. I have applied both. You can use truck liner spray or rubberized undercoating if you don't paint because of the location.

Its called Paint Over Rust 15.... there isnt enough mechanical adhesion for it to stick. You need to do etching primer and regular paint. Your problem is your uneducated on what to use.

I would not suspect the temperature alone if humidity is low, but perhaps a suspect thinner with some kind of oil based stuff in it or kerosene, or maybe you used an oil based degreaser? If you brought the frame in from outside, it can get a film of moisture on it. Try a heat gun for 15 seconds on a test spot and reshoot to see if it is a humidity problem. Then test another area or a tin can or something cleaning it first with alcohol or PPG surface cleaner (330 or later dx330). Never paint anything below 69% relative humidity unless you preheat the shoot area, especially top surfaces. Did it stick better on bottom surfaces away from settled condensation? Try to use quality body shop thinners and cleaners.

Works flawless for me

You need to clean the metal w acid or por’s cleaner, paint in 70 degrees or close as possible and also it appears that you put too much paint on. If it’s applied properly it works well, I did my entire pickup frame and suspect with it 8 years ago it’s still perfect.

I used por15 for many things and never failed … I love POR15 ❤️

I’ve used this product multiple times. Wrong and right. When you use the metal prep solvent and follow the prep instruction, it’s works perfectly as they say. When I have not prepped an area correctly, it peals just like this. I’ve done an entire sidewalk snow blower which was rusted to all hell,…. High salt and corrosion. I beat the floor with a hammer and it doesn’t come off. Stuff is expensive, but it’s the right tool for the job when you want to do it only once. You HAVE to prep the way the box says.

I am having the same problem as you, I sandblasted the frame and degreased it, even used a final wipe on the frame. It’s very frustrating when you try your best and still doesn’t work out. I’m wondering what paint you used after throwing por (peels off rightaway) in the garbage ?

I can say Por15 is not the best out there, but works very well if applied correctly. It seems you didn't know what you were doing.

Apparently it didn’t bond to the metal correctly because it wasn’t prepped right honestly

I agree I had the same problems, all cleaned, metal prep, washed off and dried, warm weather, applied por 15 great well pleased... 2 weeks later it's peeling off in sheets no adhesion at all, ended up spending a day paint stripping it off, no doubt they will say I did it wrong, I am a paint sprayer so you would think I might have some idea....

the frame looks too nice for por15

I used it on my 57 Chevy frame back in 98, then the frame went into storage for the next 20 years..pulled it out and it was just fine. I didn't do any real prep, just wire wheeled the frame, and painted it on with a sponge brush. Sorry you had bad results

A truly good product will bond under almost all conditions . The comments below show how sensitive this product is and how conditions must all be right.

Hello sir apparently you didn't do your homework before purchasing the POR15. As someone else mentioned in the comments doesn't sound like you prep good enough. My mechanic hated the POR15 cause he couldn't get the stuff off to weld to my 70 Chevelle frame. Sorry to hear about your luck

Looks like maybe that surface is to smooth? But I personally wouldn't use it either. rattle can paint is perfect for a mild rusty frame. If doing a restoration and sand blasted frame use a epoxy primer and a urethane single stage paint.

I brush it on never had a issue

Por15 is junk. I applied it to my 4runner after degreasing followed by their metal prep and most of it peeled off of the smooth areas. The areas that had rust that it bonded to started to buckle after 2yrs. Very few spots turned out nicely. What kind of "coating" isnt uv resistant? I learned from that mistake now I treat rust first with concrete and metal prep followed by rustoleum. Under coatings of surface shield, fluid film, or woolwax help keep the rust from spreading better.

sometimes things like the chem your using to clean leaves a film behind, or your air compressor is worn and passing oil and you don't have and oil trap, or you buy a product that is passed it shelf life, something failed along the way

Mine went on great, then clear coated it with there product,, doesn't look as good then 3 months later started to crinkle in some areas. car never even left the shop. Will have to pull the engine and media blast it all again and recoat with something else. I even used there adhesion promoter, epoxy primer and such.. we paint boats and jet skis frequently so it wasn't a process issue. Not Happy either here.

User error, always make sure to read the instructions before trying to use it

Thats a PREP PROBLEM SIR, not a material problem.

Your better off using alkyd enamel like rustoleum, I've used this for years direct to metal with good adhesion properties.

It wasn't prepped correctly , POR never peels off like that if the phosphoric acid was allowed to do its job and etch the surface.

Its all about the prep process. The por metal prep etches the metal

This paint actually saved my 2001 rusted undercarriage Mustang... And it glued to the frame and body panels very well ! You just had a bad batch or you did something wrong for sure !

Yeah. I have had that after following all the procedures. Including the por15 degreaser and metal prep. Don't recommend por15. Sandblasting Is the way to go

This is the ONLY guy who left a bad review 😂. Shop owners and professional restore shops use it all the time.

One more thing everyone's in a hurry for best results let your steel air out and breath for at least 2 day sand and clean once more then apply.There are contaminants that are not visible and will come the the surface.Hope this help someone.😗

Por 15 has it purpose but on high dollar build, i would avoid it. Go with a quality Epoxy primer and you wont look back.

POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with 'tooth' rather than smooth, glossy surfaces! Recommended Temperature Application: 45°F - 95° Your frame is very smooth and your using POR 15 at the extreme bottom of its recommended temp range, and you wonder why it doesn't work?

To my understanding it's not ment for bare metal so you have to do the metal care product so the top coat will adhere to the frame or whatever your painting..... pay attention

Metal prep is. A viral step I bet you skipped it

You didn’t use metal prep that’s too smooth, you need metal prep to etch and give something for the paint to stick to, you might as well use a can of $5 can of krylon you gotta use metal prep on that

Heat up the metal if it is 50 degrees that is to cold to paint metal period, either wait til the weather is warmer or heat up the frame and then apply lite coats and use a metal etching primer again on a heated up frame if you want a good job and when I see the paint pealing off you can see how thick you applied it so there are many factors which you did wrong...!

That looks like fairly pristine metal. YOU CAN'T USE POR-15 ON METAL THAT IS NOT RUSTED. POR-15 IS ONLY FOR RUSTED METAL. You also have to follow the directions thoroughly. I used it on my rusted truck frame, and it has held up great. IF METAL TREATED WITH POR-15 WILL BE EXPOSED TO DIRECT SUN FOR ANY AMOUNT OF TIME, A TOP COAT OF ANY PAINT THAT WITHSTANDS DIRECT SUN MUST BE USED. Direct sunlight is the only thing that breaks down POR-15.

I’m currently in the middle of a project using POR 15… You either got a bad batch of product, or are you completely botched the installation… Leaning towards the latter.

POR-15 likes rusted surfaces! Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 Rust Preventive Coatingdoes not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation.

I wonder if they sell a metal etching metal prep phosphoric acid with zinc before you apply the product😂 that’s kind of like with the factory dips a car into when it’s made before the primer

Did you use the metal etch before you tell everyone not to use it! Sounds like you did not follow the directions for use so maybe say it didn’t work because I don’t follow specific directions

You can not apply to smooth or clean metal. Only stains rust. Rust only. Clean metal gets primer sealer and paint. Ran into this many time myself. When I spray it I tape off all clean new metal areas so this doesn't happen. Then I prime the new metal and top coat everything.

Anybody who calls it “Poor Fifteen” instead of “Pee Oh Are Fifteen” cannot be trusted.

Same like rubberized coat hiding more rust underneath

POR “Paint Over Rust” It says it all in the name.

Same thing happened in my gas tank

Use eastwood brand, they only require 1 step

Sounds like you got a bad batch or something.. I've seen that stuff hold a mudslide together..

I used krylon and it did the job for me

Gotta use the two prep chemicals and it has to be warm

Metal prep etches the metal before application. If you use the three step process correctly, you would have probably not any issues.

50 degree "heated garage" lol...

You need to use the cleaner and for sure the degreaser that is recommended for por15 I learned quick you can’t use any solvents as degreaser because of the residue film solvents create I am a believer in this stuff sorry your experience sucked

Why are all the comments saying he didn’t follow directions? I don’t think he said how he prepped the surface .🤔

You never used the pre wash and etching spray. Plus u did it in 50degrees. To cold out. Need 70degree or better

If you do the proper prep work it’s awesome lasts a supper long time got about 5 years in it now

Por 15 needs rust to chemically bond to

I use magic brand from tsc just as good.

Its for rough surfaces

Weird ,, that never happened to me.. either poor prep, or I guess it’s possible you got a bad batch.. but I think it’s you... seriously

Thats because all poor 15 is ,is black dyed concrete sealer with NO RUST PROOFING capabilities! Use the master series silver and ag-111!