Porsche 914 / VW Type IV 2056 Engine Build Part 4 [Project Bumblebee Build Week 18] 

Thanks man. You gotta find one and join the club!

Thanks, Loretta!

Thanks Harry!

Thanks Dave!

Glad you’re finding them helpful!

Glad you enjoyed it Dave!

Welcome aboard! Please subscribe and consider joining patreon for exclusive content ;) Thanks!

Glad you like them!

Nice. Jorge is definitely a solid guy

Thanks so much. This community has been awesome to me and it's nice to give back.

Thanks for watching and commenting, Jose!

Appreciate it Randy

Thanks man. Two steps forward, three back.

Thanks again!

Thanks for the visit! Please subscribe if you want to see more fun type 4 / 914 stuff

Totally agree!

And McMark / Original Customs too. But I'm not sure how active he is these days...

Thanks, man. Will def look into that paste....

@@IanKarr I've just posted on Facebook the picture of the paste, and tagged you in it (I'm not FB savi!) G052 128 A1, it does go a long way! Available at all VAG dealers and Porsche with a slight change to the part # 🤔😉

Yeah. and I'm wearing a rubber. Glove.

Not sure why they didn't add a shim on the other side, but I've heard they decided on using three at the back for lubrication.

Thanks, Brent. Apparently the quality control is all over the place.

thanks!

It's all in previous episodes. Stock crank. 9590 cam and lifters from type 4 store.

Hi Craig. thanks for the comments. I haven't dyno-ed it yet, but the seat of my pants says about 120

Ha! Yeah, it got a little sad in the cross country shipping. I was able to straighten it out enough to get the dipstick in. Haven't really looked at what's involved to change it out.

Hi Ian! Do you mean the pilot bearing which gets inserted intot he flywheel? Here's a link...www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/111105313A.htm?pn=111-105-313-A-M40&SVSVSI=978&fs=0

@@IanKarr yah that’s the one… I don’t recall it being on the engine when it was stripped; either it was missing or lost in the strip down.. or not on the 1700 engines at all!?

I found some Kuril online and Jake Raby said he preferred it, so I figured I'd give it a go. Worked great. But Yamabond is great stuff too.

it's from a 914 ;)

Thanks. I went to The Samba and found a guy who had one for sale. It’s being shipped 😎

The yoke is made by a guy on the Samba. Here's a link: www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=606308

Sorry meant gasket set

Victor Reinz. But it strangely didn't include the felt washer. I had a few extras.

@@IanKarr thank you for the help. I’ll know what to get separately, keep up the good work!

www.thesamba.com/vw//classifieds/detail.php?id=606308

Not sure what you're asking, but if you got a side shift 901 transmission for 500 and it works, you got a good deal.

Bought it on amazon ;)

@@IanKarr I watched your video about valve geometry. I noticed that you were setting it all up with the valve clearance set to zero. After the engine was assembled, did you recheck the valve clearance? I asked Raby why he sets his valve clearances to zero. His reply was because he builds his engines in a way that the heat transfer and expansion is uniform. I assume that he’s able to do that because he’s using metallurgically matched parts wherever he can; and using Nickies cylinders too.

@@dewder74 thanks for watching. I used chromoly pushrods which are designed to be run at loose zero. Yes, I did recheck the setup several times before buttoning up the engine…but for loose zero.

@@IanKarr oh ok. Raby didn’t mention that. I was under the impression that the secret was using Nickies cylinders. Can’t wait to see another video. Maybe a shakedown cruise?

All type 4 914 cases are the same-1.7, 1.8 and 2.0. It's all about the crank, cam, pistons, cylinders and pushrods. Best advice is to buy a kit from LN Engineering

@@IanKarr thanks Ian I appreciate your response

Economical is relative. If you're rebuilding, and don't mind a little outlaw, I'd go 2056 with a 9590 cam. Same amount of effort, but a nice bump in HP. Time is really the big factor. How soon do you want to be driving?

@@IanKarr I played in this car as a kid, been gazing at it all my life. Want it on the road today but it’s very winter right now. Budget is around 2 grand

@@Iamthestig42069 When you say it's torn apart, what exactly do you mean? If you want to get the car on the road quickly, I'd probably spend the 2K on a running engine...put it in the car and leave the old one off to the side until you have the time and funds to build it up. I assume it's a matching numbers engine?

@@IanKarr torn apart as in I had to disassemble the whole thing to get the crank to turn. One con rod, I think it was the #2 was seized to the crank. Jugs, pistons and bearing surfaces are scored to say the least. Was told it was a carb conversion that went wrong due to factory high pressure fuel pump meant for fi blowing fuel into the case past the rings and ruining the oil

@@Iamthestig42069 Wow. In that case I'd see if you can find a running motor for 2K...and, like I said, restore the original one when you have the time and funds. If the heads are good, you're in for at least 2K to do the rebuild right (decking the case, balancing, new or reconditioned crank/rods/beariings/pistons/jugs). There's a decent chance you'll need head work too. I'd probably get new heads from Len Hoffman for about 2K.

Hi Michael. These engines didn’t come with a factory oil pressure gauge. Just a warning light. The sender for that is just below and to the right of the distributor, through a hole in the engine tin. Tough to see. Check to make sure the wire is still attached. What year is your car? On 74 and later I believe the wire from the sender connects to the gauge wire at the block under the passenger seat.

@@IanKarr Now I know why it's not mentioned in the service book. This is 1970 1.7. I did look where you mentioned but I am not seeing a wire in that location I do have a loose Green and Brown wire floating around but I was told that was purposely leftover for other cars. I would think it should be near the oil filter? Also, there is what appears to be a fan above the engine with two large hoses. What is that? How does it get its signal since that is also not hooked up?

@@michaelsteel688 the fan above the engine is to push air through the heat exchangers and into the car. There should be two wires which go into that. Suggest you pick up a Haynes manual which gives a great overview of the car.

there have been a few recent threads about vapor / dry ice blasting on 914world.com...

@@IanKarr what is that?

@@michaelsteel688 what is what?

@@michaelsteel688 vapor/dry ice blasting is sandblasting without sand. I know of only one place in the US that does this. The good part is no residue from media. The bad is price and only one place that does it.

Amazingly, it doesn’t :) what makes you say that?