Be careful with those brittle pistons. We just switched a set out with some drop in rods and pistons due to the ringlands breaking on the factory pieces. It was an Escalade with the L86 and a P1x. It wasn't being pushed hard at all.
@@erick5598 sounds like its working out well for you. They usually hold 550, sometimes a little more. This one had sever piston starting to fail at under 500. Its now good to go for everything the P1X can throw at it once it gets a fuel system upgrade. Check it out if you like @the_racers_source. Cool truck build.
@@thegonz7833 actually there’s a truck in the high 11s all motor. I know it’s a crew cab, not sure if it’s 4wd or 2wd. He’s been posting a lot recently in a Facebook page. “High performance 5.0 f150s” I can try to link to it but I think you have to be a member of the page to actually see the post.
1.What did you do with the radiator shutter system in front as you have to remove it to make room for the intercooler behind the bumper?? Without it hooked up it sets a code. 2.Did you have to move the PCM into the auxiliary battery spot on the left side?? 3.How do the emissions and power brake booster get any vacuum now since the intake plenum is now pressurized?? 4.Overall , did you at any point see an increase in gas mileage or driveability??? 5.Have you run it on a chassis dyno yet to get your actual H.P. and torque numbers ?
1. The kit comes with detailed instructions to show you how to remove them. The code has to be disabled in the tune. 2. The instructions also show you how to relocate the PCM. 3. They are pressurized by provided hardware from the kit. 4. Even with an aftermarket converter I did see an increase in my city and highway mpg. 5. No the truck has not been on a dyno. I was more focused on the performance of the truck at the track and how it still drove as a daily driver.
Thanks for the reply. I have a 2018 Silverado 5.3 L , 6 speed ,crew cab , regular 6.5' box , 4x4 , Z71 , rear air bag assist . I tow a 29' 5th wheel camper toy hauler with it. Trailer weight loaded is #8,400 on the CAT scale. I have added the extra battery behind the Left headlamp. I also tow trailers with electric winches on them ; the reason for second battery. So I am not sure about that PCM relocation position under the hood. I'm still considering a screw compressor for it like a Whipple . I Didn't want the turbos either. I wanted more low end pulling torque for hauling up hills etc. Without running the RPM's way up all the time. I have heard that these belt driven centrifugal superchargers are more like turbochargers where I need to keep the RPM's running high to get the extra power. What has been your experiences??
Have you lifted the truck any? Is that the factory stance? Love the wheels and tires. Looking for the same ones for my ‘18 it’s the same color. Beautiful truck man!!
I see that you’re not dropped/ lowered or set up for “racing” Can you still tow/ haul and daily it? I’d really love to get this done, but I still wanna be able to use my truck as a truck.
Put 20k daily miles on it and the converter I went with keep the factory tow/haul rating. Drove it from Michigan to Maryland and back with zero issues.
Did you do anything to the transmission. I’ve been looking at get a 76mm ceramic ball bearing turbo but I’ve heard a lot of people talking about the transmission failing if you’re going about 400 to the wheels
Other than the Circle D converter and a good trans tune from Klug Performance mine was left stock and had zero issues. The guy who now owns the truck has also continued to have zero issues with the transmission. This setup was around 650 crank horsepower or 515 wheel.
Now I did have the stall in the truck before the kit. It has great drivability. With a little more aggressive throttle response it will flash to 2k pretty easy off the line with normal driving but it grabs and shifts quickly after that. I would definitely recommend the Circle D converter. Has been a great combo with the ProCharger.
Would the 2600-2800 be a good choice for a intake/exhaust/tune 2014 gmc crew cab 4x4 I have been talking to circle d but I’m not familiar with the 6 speed? So your saying you had good drivability and WOT before the supercharger and with the stall?
Yes I did run the truck from stock, 93 tune only, e85 tune only, and then the truck got the ProCharger and stall which was on a 93 tune. The final best time of 12.42 was with a e35 blend. I have a video with all my time slips with the mods from stock and up.
I bought the truck with 1 mile on it, at 18k miles I put on the ProCharger, and the truck was sold with 33k miles on it so 15k miles with the ProCharger on it. The current owner has put 5k more miles on it since he bought it. Still zero issues.
Do you have any information on how you run the crankcase ventilation? Hose routing and if used a catch thanks a bunch. Been going through your videos but can’t clearing see. Keep up the vids!
You can kind of see the black hoses coming off the vent. They go to a t fitting and a single line goes into the end of the filter on the ProCharger unit. That is how ProCharger has you run the crank case venting. I did not have a catch can so I am not sure how they would have you route it if you did use one.
@@gslrotaryrocket I have not checked the throttle body because taking the piping off is a pain but the one time I took off the air filter on the supercharger I did notice some oil residue there.
Hey man love it I have basically the exact same truck just a Sierra, and also came in possession of a vortec pro charger of an 06 GTO. Would it be a pipe dream to think I could get the charger on my truck if I bought a kit without the pro charger?
I know most kits are sold to come with the units. Being a Vortec supercharger I would contact that company and see if they make a kit for that year truck and would be will to just sell the kit minus the supercharger. Your next step would be to make a kit yourself. The problem would be coming up with a mounting bracket for the supercharger that would work for the truck. Honestly I would just sell it and put it toward a proper kit designed for that year truck.
Don't get a chambered muffler so you prevent back pressure. That's true but I got an even better way. Get a true dual exhaust with an X pipe. Way more flow and you can keep the stock manifolds and primary cats (unless you live in California you don't need the third cat). Nice truck though.
Im not sure that will work...? At least not the way its supposed too. I'm sure one could be hand built but without removing the fuel tank and relocating it, it wouldnt be the same. I have a true dual on my 95 that dumps out in front of the rear tires but it has a fuel cell in the bed. You could mount a tank between the fuel rails where the spare tire is mounted but I'm pretty sure youd be able to see it from the back kinda like the old G bodys.
@@Punk-Jw Do it the same way they used to in trucks. My 2011 got a true dual exhaust with an X pipe and just that, no tune, I gained a half a second 0-60. With what you got, true duals with an X pipe will fit no problem and will help alot with a retune. Just run both pipes next to each other, turn the mufflers up so they're right next to each other, then send the left side back over to the left before the spare then send it over the axle then our the back or side. Up towards the engine, where the left side crosses over to the right, cut the Y pipe out and keep both pipes on that side till the back. Never have any tank issues. Most exhaust shops if you tell them true duals with an X pipe, they'll know exactly what to do. Works just like the 90's trucks did.
It is an after torque converter for the transmission. Let's to brake stall the to a higher rpm when you launch it. The stock converter would let me brake stall the truck to 2700 rpms, and the one I had would let it stall up to 3400 rpms. Which the advantage of that for my truck was it would put it in boost on the launch.
Not sure. Is the Callaway only on the 6.2 trucks or do they have a 5.3 version as well. Plus the Callaway comes with exterior and interior mods I believe.
Thank you. Yes this is my daily. Was even driven in deep snow this past winter. It did amazing and retained the stock driveability. Definitely the best vehicle I've ever owned.
@@rickyscz28 nope. On 93 I get 17city and 22hwy. Running e50 that drops to 13city and 17hwy but the power gains running e50 are more than worth the mileage drop :)
They do not have testing here. I believe the ProCharger kits are emissions legal except for California. I would contact ProCharger to make sure though.
Depending what your looking to get out of your supercharger. If you have the budget I'd recommend the D1X kit. This is who I ordered my kit through. All the kits come direct from ProCharger though. www.tpsmotorsports.com/home
You definitely need some mechanical knowledge. With two people taking out time we did it in a weekend. The intercooler piping is probably the hardest part. The supercharger unit itself was pretty easy.
It is the OEM kit that comes of the 2014-2018 trucks. Once the kit installed you will need a tune to activate the flex fuel sensor and calibrate the tune for e85 to work like OEM.
@@CrowChevy-vi8og they can not. Contact Klug Performance on Facebook. He is local for me and is the one who tuned my truck. He also does remote tuning.
Just_A_Z71 I purchased a 2018 with 19,000 miles from apparently a place where they use salt on the road, the rust & aluminum corrosion was unbelievable. It's like under the hood was clean and shiny new looking but had this fine fine light sparkly looking salt dust, that would blow off with compressed air, weird. I got a good deal on the truck and the next best deal would have had literally double the mileage and was more money. Does your truck have any aluminum corrosion on the heads, aluminum radiator core etc? And how do I wash/clean it without doing any water damage? I live in Louisiana where it snows very very rarely. My 2008 Chevy with 548,000+ miles literally has much less rust and zero aluminum corrosion
@@LiftHeavy1 it depends what you are looking for. A Whipple will give you a lot of low end torque. Also with having a 3200 stall like I did that is a high starting rpm for a Whipple. Which is another reason why I went with a ProCharger style supercharger.
It does void the warranty. The only truck I know of you can get a dealer installed supercharger with a warranty is the Ford F150 from some dealerships.
You bring up a funny fact with that truck. The window sticker says 1LT. However with the options combo the truck has the vin number and all other records of the truck document it as a 2LT. Pretty sure it was a misprint on the window sticker.
Correct because labor can vary depending where you live and who does it. Also all installations were done myself. Hard to include that cost accurately for the video.
@@trapboyjack5179 not sure if there is much difference in ease or difficulty on a 2010 vs a 2017 but me and a buddy did it in a weekend. Wasn't bad at all.
@@erick5598 you know the lifter can still get stuck right? Id for sure want the dod kit and might as well do johnson lifters, upgrade vavle train and cam while youre in there. Im at just under 2k on my l83 for all that, but want a procharger.
I unfortunately have not had the truck on the dyno. Via the HP Tuners logs which shows crank power with e50 and an air temp of 50 degrees it was making 640hp and 600tq. Which would be right around 515 at the wheel with the powertrain loss.
@@erick5598 I have both on my 17 and the meth alone dropped me about 5 tenths in the quarter mile it helps the iats a lot ! And the headers, well they make the truck sounds like a monster lol and they add a good amount of power as well. I have speed engineering headers and fitment is great I just recommend welding a couple pieces together to be leak free.
@@erick5598 I went with the snow performance stage 2.5 kit. It's the one with the boost gauge/controller. It's super easy to install and super easy to control. I've had mine on for about 5 months now with no issues.
I have always waited for truck month. Best time to get a GM, Ford, or Ram truck. All three you can find in the mid 30s with the rebates during truck month sales.
@@ggg17ggg17 thank you and typically Ford, Ram, and GM has them twice a year. With Covid that has seemed to change it. However where I live all three brands have around 7,000 dollars off with more payments for 90 days.
I paid $700 for a street tune in Denver when I upgraded my injectors and fuel pumps while adding the flex fuel to my procharged Silverado. Good work ain’t cheap
Just STOP with dealership math. Don’t worry about the “cost” of the vehicle, that is NOT mod cost. There is no savings there. You’ve already purchased or are purchasing it. Everyone GETS f@cked from dealership costs. People are only going to care about MOD costs.
@@erick5598 i have a 15 tahoe k&n air filter gibson exhaust & headers idk what else to do to make it faster. Only thing i can do is whipple it but i really want to try something else do u think that pro charger can fit in a tahoe 5.3L?
@@DjayyStacks if you have not done a custom tune those really wake up the trucks and SUVs. Also this kit is designed for the 15-18 Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, and Escalade. You just have to specify which you have being the intercooler and shroud would be different per vehicle.
@@DjayyStacks Deff want a custom tune, and you either want someone that will update your tune for you whenever you change somthing, or you want to figure out everything your doing and installed before hand. The biggest leach in the truck is the trans and its factory tune. GM really, REALLY fucked that up. and just some info for you, next time dont buy headers for this generation. There is a vid on here somewhere of dyno runs with stock and with updated headers and high flow cats, numbers actually dropped a little. Its way to much money and a pain in the ass to change compared to what you get for it....nothing.
