I never realized the benefit of RU-vid years ago when it came online until I seen videos done like these. Thank you for taking the time to give free information. Very good quality! Thanks!
I’ve been a self taught builder for about 15 years and you are the MOST Thorough person for lessons, that anyone should be able to build one you are awesome
I just rebuilt my 2007 Chevrolet 4L60E following Jimmy's tutorials and it works again! Fantastic video series and presentation. Never thought I'd attempt this procedure but he made it easy as well as ordering the parts I needed. Highly recommended, thanks Jimmy!
Excellent 4L60E series! I will use these to rebuild my 700R4 again in future!! Basically the same as far as I can tell except the valve body is a little different of course!
Hope this helps someone but a 10" air duct clamp looks exactly like that tool aside from a hex rather than a wing nut. Got mine at lowes for $2.18. Worked great.
If you put the pump halves back in the case backwards, it will line up the pump for tightening. Also, several large diameter hose clamps screwed together will work.
Great videos, So I rebuilt my 2008 4l60e in a 2008 Hummer H3 5 cyl. It shifts fine from first to 2nd but shifts into neutral when trying to shift to third and there is no reverse.
I rebuilt the pump and replaced the nylon rings on the body, and when test fitting on the reverse input drum its very snug. Is it because of the new bushing and nylon rings that were installed?
Mr. Williams, I'm having trouble setting my last 2 drums of the stack into the 96 Corvette 4L60E case. Is there any measurements from the pump base in the transmission, to the bushing surface of the top clutch drum? I've tried it a dozen times and looking through the valve body, the pump is not seating in the transmission by about + or - 3/16" of an inch. Just as the shaft bottoms out each time, the top drum seems to raise above the thrust washer and spacer. I didn't want to attempt to tighten the pump bolts to force it down. Thanks.
Due to the lack of very expensive tools that people have, the chamfer could get in the way of installation, and would more easily get destroyed during installation.
ok got it im putting the drum into the case now when the drum is fully down the drum the band grabs comes up off the thrust bearing between the 2 drums but is fully splined with the sun shell and you can lift the drum shaft about 1/4 inch is this due to improper mounting depth of the forward sprag bushings please advise on proper method
I've replaced the front seal do to a leak well figured it was the seal but got it all back together, it doesn't leak as bad but only starts to when warmed up well else could it possibly be. my other guess would be the bushing and the pump seal where it bolts to the transmission. what else could it possibly be
Mr Williams, I purchased a new input drum/shaft assembly and a new reverse input drum (both oem). when i mate the two together the reverse input drum does not seat on the thrust washer. the reverse input drum actually rubs against the side of the input drum. Any suggestions? Thanks
mr williams one question . you use a inch pound torque wrench and tight pump bolts to 220 . its ok to use a ft pound torque wrench and tight them to 18 ft pounds ?
my 1994 Silverado 1500 2wd 4l60 makes a squeaking noise sounds like a bad U joint I removed the drive shaft and run the output shape my hand and you skeaky notice come from the units what kit do I need
Excellent video series. What is the best way to learn the purpose of all these parts and how the transmission works? I've watched several re planetaries, clutches etc but can't find anything specific on how this tranny works.
need some help!! I have 98 blazer with the 4l60e trans. my repair manual doesn't give me the torque specs for the pump to casing or for the bell houseing to case. could you please help I need to know the torque specs please thank you. won't go on Google each website is giving me different specs
i have a 97 blazer 2wd i have some play in the 2-4 band anocor pin hole in case is this normal the pin cocks slightly to the right side of case there is visible wear please advise
Awesome Series, I ordered my Kit from someone else before I saw your series or would have certainly sent you my business. This made a seemingly overwhelming project possible. Next Project, Im coming to you for sure. Now, after the brown nosing, I do have a question. After installing the pump to the case, All endplay disappears. It is there prior to tightening down the case. I feel confident that my 3-4 clutches are seated all the way and the reverse input drum seems down. I am able to get the pump seated down and it is spinning, not touching the reverse drum. But no endplay at all. I tried to put clamp on the shaft and use my feeler gauge but I cant get any movement. I tore it down an did it several times. all seems golden till I tighten down the pump.
that's the issue I'm working with right now spent 10 hours trying to get the trans to mate with engine before I realized the tq wasn't engaging the oil pump lugs.. ahhhhh
on my 2005 year 4L60E there is no large seal on the pump body, instead the case itself has an insert/seal that is a snug fit against the pump body when it is installed in the case.
When I rotate the torque converter after it is installed onto the transmission, is it normal to hear a squealing sound? The sound is similar to the noise that the roller housing makes.
at this point here is what I see. I would get so far in reassembly and then possibly need a new part that I then need to properly identify and then order and wait for its arrival get 30 minutes farther in to reassembly only to then need order another part and wait for it too to arrive.
hello plz I have 4l60e on 6.0l gen 3 I have a transmission problem R n 1 working verry well 2 n 3 n 4 don't have a power on hight Rpm more than 2000 start to slip when I give a little throttle more than 2000 rpm starts to slip shifting down slow shifting a little by hand i have slow shifting between 1 n 2 , 2 n 3 , 4 with slipping when rpm start to more then 2000 I have rebuilt it and same problem you think torque convert ? thank you
I can't get the input frictions to spline into the ring gear... I've twisted and turned and slightly lifted for hours! And still it won't go down... Any suggestions?
Travis Lemley Hi Travis. It should not be giving you this much trouble. I assume you mean that the 3-4 frictions will not not go onto the input ring gear. Remove all of the 3-4 frictions from the forward drum and try to fit them onto the input ring gear by themselves. There may be something wrong with the splines on the ring gear or frictions. Let me know..... Jimmy
hello friend your tutorials are very good. I wanted to let you know that I have an oil pump (4L60E) at which the rotor where they placed the paddles damage, and this uses 10 rotor blades. I bought another rotor but this uses 13 blades. This caused me this problem with oil pressure?
Hi there i have a 99 4L60E completely rebuild and instaled into my Chevy silverado. But now when i put it into gear it does nothing the shifter scenes the transmission but it has no movement at all. ive herd theres no pressure could it be due to the pump. please help.
At about 40 min in part 2 lesson 7, you say to make sure there is some end play. My 2008 4l60e has no end play at this point after snugging the pump bolts. Is this bad? What might be the cause? Thanks and I really appreciate the lessons.
Heck no........ Just keep working back as close as you can get it.Masking tape works for me.You can also use an old bearing and a clamp.Cut and deburr old bearing first.Cut a Coke bottle and a clamp.
Great series of videos. About to start on my second rebuild. After the first one I donated $25 to him. Does anybody know the o-ring size that is on the 7 bolts that hold the 2 half’s of the pump assy together? I think they are 904 viton o-ring.
Had that same problem felt like torque converter wasn't locking up, there are a couple of fixes, you can ream the bore and put an oversize valve or use the transgo tcc regulator valve and heavy duty spring but i think the best fix is Fixal's Tcc regulator basically its a valve with orings and it seals up the bore so you dont get blowby worked great for me.
TheRednexican , I assemble mine like that no end play and it burned up the 3-4 instantly this will be mine 3 time . I’m going to order the new washer. Everything new but not that..
Anyone doing the bushings remember these aren't as easy as he makes them look took me a few trys to get putting them in right especially without a bushing driver or press.
Why are the ring install tool and sizing tool so ridiculously priced, like over $100? What you get looks like it should be around $29 for the set. Without the tools, can you just carefully use a pump or even a bushing with the same ID? EDIT: Thinking back to his bucket trick to align the pump, can you do something similar using a pill bottle to spread, squeeze & resize the rings? Or even use a silicone tape to wrap the shafts to slide the rings down, then remove the tape and compress the rings with tape wrapped sticky side out, then remove the tape?
Monster sunshell, 5 pinion sun gear, billet input and output shaft, pinless accumulator Pistons, sonnax boost valve, Raybestos GPZ100 3/4 clutch pack or Alto red eagle, Alto wide 2-3 band corvette servo and a good trans cooler. Sonnax makes a smart input drum with shaft and smart sun shell that are stronger than stock but they are very pricey.
when i tried to set the pump back in, it won't go down past the o-ring and the bolts do not reach their holes. i ended up breaking the o-ring and now have to wait another week for another one to come in the mail and i have time off work. what's the magic behind getting the pump to go all the way down with the o-ring installed?
+Bobby Augustine I had the same problem but the pump will drop in when I installed the pump into the transmission. I pulled it back out twice, once to check if I hurt the rings and because I forgot to install the band.
I ended up beginning to seat the o-ring with a small flat blade screwdriver. Once the last little bit was pushed past the edge it slipped right in. The o-ring I was using had square edges not round, so it had an edge to catch on.
Bobby Augustine I have 2.5 years and 27,000 miles but I've had a leak the hold time. Not bad but when it sit for a while. The spot keep growing. I just rebuilt the engine and plan to remove pump and find out why it leaks.
I see no reason to chamfer this bottom bushing. It is much larger diameter and will never touch the sealing rings. It is critical to maintain as much of this bushing surface as possible.
Good videos. Just cannot get over the way pieces are placed in a box. Especially the bolts. A great mechanic would have used cardboard or something to draw the diagram and labels, then match up the bolts to make sure the bolts would go back into the same bolt holes. It may take longer. But, returning the bolts to the same bolt holes really helps prevent any kind of excess wear on bolt and bolt hole threading. Wayanchors.
