Having worked on over 200 Honda automatic transmissions, you ALWAYS pull every valve and spring out of the bodies, clean everything thoroughly and inspect the valve passages for scratches, burrs, etc. There are ALWAYS little pieces of metal floating around in the valve body of a transmission that has had to be rebuilt. Having said that, this is unquestionably the best 4L60E rebuild video on the internet...
This is such an underated series hands down the best 4l60e series on RU-vid if you cant rebuild your 4l60e with this series then you dont need to even be changing your own oil
I just rebuilt my 2007 Chevrolet 4L60E following Jimmy's tutorials and it works again! Fantastic video series and presentation. Never thought I'd attempt this procedure but he made it easy as well as ordering the parts I needed. Highly recommended, thanks Jimmy!
This is the best repair series video on RU-vid! Excellent production, clear talk, good lighting and giving people the details they need to know. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
He is good. Since he has made these videos I now see where they drill out the small hole next to that check ball that hammers itself into the separator plate. .080 to .090 I think.
Thank you sir, you saved me the headache of misplacing something. I just got done installing the rebuilt transmission I did (4L60E) in a 2002 Chevy Astro, shifts great and goes in reverse and no more slipping gears.
260,000 views.... Probably about 100 people rebuilding their transmission. I know I've watched this 5x and plan to donate when I'm done. Excellent quality and clarity.
This has to be one of "THE BEST" automotive video series on RU-vid. Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to make such a great tutorial. Your expertise and patient delivery make this complex subject matter very understandable and enjoyable. Well done Sir!
Perfect! Exactly what I needed to learn before opening my 4l60E out of my 2001 Camaro. However, I chose to go with option 3 TCC Valve with O-rings made by fitzall part number A74741QA. They say It too fixes trouble code P1870. I will change this out today along with the Sonax Boost Valve.
17:35 NEVER turn a reamer backwards!! Continue turning it right while pulling it out. If you turn it left it can leave a ridge in the bore, and break the cutting edge of the reamer.
Absolutely the best class on RU-vid!!! But I messed up somewhere I followed this whole class and watched it 5x before I even started installed my trans today and still no 3rd gear. I can't help but feel I did something wrong even making it a point to take my extra time and do exactly what he did.
Thank you for doing this video. I just completed my rebuild for my old suburban a couple days ago and it seems to be working perfectly. Now on to the b7ta for the Honda. I wish there was a video that covers that one with as much detail as this one but nowI am much more motivated for that rebuild than before.
Gracias por compartir recientemente compre una Suburban y trae la 4L60E tenia una falla la primera la hacia muy cargo el cambio sin embargo resulto ser el sensor de posición del acelerador je je je pero tengo pendiente hacer la afinación de la transmisión saludos desde MÉXICO!!!!
@20:45, you should NOT have to force the sleeve into the bore like that. Precision machined parts should slide together with close to .0005" clearance. Forcing it in the bore is probably because of turning the creamer backwards on the way back out with it.
Somebody else posted this but it is worth posting again there is a kit for 2000-2004. Fitzall Part number A74741QA It does not work for the later years where they added an internal speed sensor. I like this approach better because it's a permanent fix.
I have watched your entire 4l60e series parts 1 & 2 and it is amazing. My 2002 trans am w/65k miles had no second gear, it wouldn't shift out of 1st until about 15-20mph followed by letting off the gas completely, then it would shift directly to 3rd. the same was true for downshifting it would bypass 2nd when slowing down. If I floored it from a stand still, it wouldn't shift out of first, it would just bounce off rev limiter and never upshift until I let off the gas. I researched everything that could cause no second gear. I have disassembled the entire trans, there was no metal shavings in the pan, none of the check balls/check ball holes were worn or misplaced, the clutch packs all look good and not worn, the sun shell is great condition with no visible wear on teeth, the band wasn't broke and had good material still left on it, and the seals on the servo looked good when removing them, there were no broken springs in the valve body. I followed the part 2 lesson 9 to the point where you said to clean it in mineral spirits and that most of the time further disassembly isn't needed and to check all valves and make sure they move freely, upon doing this I found one that wasn't taken apart in the video which wouldn't move freely. The little "piston head" on the valve right next to the 3-2 solenoid was very stiff and when I pushed it in, it stuck there. It took me about 10 min to get it out and there was a yellow & purple spring behind it, it looked good and wasn't broken, I also took out the next piece and it looked fine as well, I couldn't see any dirt or obstructions. I tried to reinstall them and the same thing happened, the piston head would get stuck in valve body and wouldn't pop back out(it was very hard to install too, it would barely fit in bore). I lightly sanded the small piston head and the first 1/2" of bore with 2000 grit sandpaper. After doing this and trying to reinstall it seemed to fit a little easier, so I repeated this process about 5 times until it moved freely in bore and spring tension would pop it back out after being pushed in. I reinstalled the retaining clip and now it pops in and out smoothly about an 1/8th-1/4" inch like the other two valves next to it. Was this the cause of my no second gear????
Hi Chad. I think you have found the problem. Keep working with that valve until it is free. You might try tapping the valve on a part which does not slide against the aluminum bore.with the blade of a screwdriver to knock down high spots. Jimmy
What I was describing as the "piston head" was actually the end plug for that valve. It was the only thing that was tight, the valve itself moved freely. Since it is under constant spring tension, I don't think it would matter since it probably isn't supposed to move at all. The only other suspicious thing I found was the speedometer sensor in the tail housing was worn down- some of the brass had been worn off as well as the two little metal tabs that point toward the output shaft. The output shaft looked ok without damage, but it was shiny/polished in one area from riding on the speedo sensor. This car was in an accident and rebuilt before I bought it. I think the frame is slightly bent which may have caused the output shaft to be at an angle which caused it to rub the sensor (I imagine the clearance between the sensor and shaft is very small), the other possibility is it simply happened during accident. My question is would a damaged speed sensor cause this issue? because it would upshift and down shift from 1-3 and 3-1 just no 2nd.
The partial TC apply strategy is hard on the converter clutch and should be eliminated by locking the valve down in the VB. On or Off will work better than partial apply.
Hi, does the valve where the reamer regulator tool you were using move as far as the silver retaining clip? All of my springs are in good shape when checked with the pick and taking apart. I have taking the regulator pieces out and the spring still looks in tack.
I have a 2000 z - 71 with a bad trans I was givin a 2SHD and a DCNF2420 torque converter. I was wondering if I swap the bell-housing and extention housing will it last until I get a full kit from you in a few months
So this new valve spring makes the code go away and fixes the slippage? I got the P1870 on my 96 gmc jimmy and when it tries to go into 3rd it just slips and acts like its in neutral and it revs up. I have to keep it in manual 2nd so it wont try to go into 3rd. cant get into 3rd so im not sure if it can get into 4th or not
You have the best videos for the 4l60e. At 37:33 in this video you show how to use the reamer and install the Sonnax kit, would you need the additional reamer for a 2000 valve body? Thanks
Hey I need help I have 4l65e transmission has changed also changed the clutch 1/2/3/4 Manfall Presser solenoid TCC clutch problem 3/4 not working. But the 1-2 reverse works well.
After installing the tcc valve does the clip go onto the valve or does the plug go in on top of the valve and clip goes on the plug I can’t really tell I’m using the Sonnax tcc valve
Hey Jimmy these vids are awesome.... How do you know if the valve body is not already worn too much? Is there a vacuum test procedure for these valve bodies?
Wat does it mean if I put it in gear either 1st or drive n the rpm goes up to almost 2k before the truck starts to move, but wen u put it in 2nd gear it goes as little better then 1st gear
Great videos!!! I'm having problems with my transmission... I have the same...4L60-E year 1995..I'm from México...and its amazing but we don't have the rebuilding kits that you have there...and maybe the mechanicals...I take the transmission to the shop...two weeks ago... And its failing....fail..number one: hard shift 1-2, second fail: no third gear... I don't know what to do...
What would cause a 1998 truck to stall out when placed in a gear or coming to a stop. Checked tcc pwm solenoid and checks out to 11.3 ohms. Only does it with fluid in trans when I drained the fluid to where it barely reads on stick it doesn’t do the problem. It’s a 2wd 4l60e Silverado
I installed an aluminum plug in my TCC regulator to eliminate the PWM function. When you block off the TCC regulator does this result in full converter lock up any time that a partial converter lock up was commanded previously? My rebuilt transmission works great and the truck drives fine but the RPM are much lower than they were before in lower gears.
***** By defeating the partial apply feature which the regulator valve provides, your torque converter clutch will come on after the shift to second gear.
I don't see where he addresses one of the most critical areas of the valve body. AFL Valve circuit. Nearly always worn. Couple different repair options.
Great vid!!. Is it possible to work on the valve body as you have shown here without dropping the trans or will it be to difficult to reinstall the valve body to the trans while still mounted in the car? I am pretty sure I have the dreaded TCC Regulator Valve Spring issue. Your thoughts are appreciated
flatstuff Yes! You can remove and repair the valve body from underneath the vehicle without removing the entire transmission. You'll need a new filter, pan gasket, upper and lower separator plate gaskets as well as either the Sonnax regulator valve kit (requires a reamer) or the spring which comes in an overhaul package. You can get what you need at transmissionbench.com. You will have to call me at 706-414-9945 to order the reamer. Hope this helps...Jimmy
@@reyperez3424 So I had found what happened. When I reassembled the forward clutches, I had put the one way clutch in backwards, nothing fit right until i fixed that. What I failed to do then is double check the direction. That was that problem. Then when I put it back together after that, I bent the fingers on one of the clutches and didn't have any movement except reverse. Took it to the transmission shop after that. Lol
I have a 4l60e 1995 mounted on a 1994 camaro and therefore I don't have the connection of pwm tcc to the ecm and I don't have first gear I only have a second third and I'm not sure if I also have the fourth I would like to know what to do I hate removing the cover and maintaining and changing selenoids for new ones and not solving the problem of not having first gear help me Is it possible to put the valve body from 1994 to the 1995 transmission?
i rebuilt my 2000 chevy pickup 4l60e transmission with your video. it worked for about 3 months, 3-4 burned up so im doing it again. everything looked good except the 3-4. in trying to find out what went wrong i rememberd i used a donor valve body from a 98. research tells me its different, could that be my problem? because if not i dont no where to look next everything else seems to check out
for the tcc regulator valve "spring fix" can i just use the longer spring or do i need to buy the expensive sonnax kit and reamer.The transmission is a 04 4l60e
Guy Stuard Hi Guy. You can only use the spring on 1995-2000 valve bodies. On 2001 and up the only repair solution is to use the reamer and install the Sonnax TCC regulator valve kit. Jimmy
Can I drive the 2003 with no lockup in tow haul mode without causing any damage to my trans? It rarely has tcc lockup so I’ve been leaving it in tow haul at highway speed to eliminate the tcc command and p0894 code
Can you explain the advantages of the PWM style lock up converter VS the non PWM lock up converter? Awesome series BTW. Makes me want to get a bad trans, and do a rebuild just for the experience! The one in my 04 Tahoe has 236k on it! I'm the second owner, and the PO said they did nothing to the truck except for a water pump, wheel bearings, brakes, and replaced the 4x4 switch on the dash.
The PWM equipped transmissions have the ability to begin a partial application of the converter clutch after the shift to 2nd gear which results in better fuel economy. Full lock up occurs after 55 mph. The 1993-1994 non-PWM models didn't lock up until after 4th gear.
after removing the tcc regulator valve, it is completely different than the one in the video. It is a one piece valve with a much larger spring, the valve came out first followed by the spring. it was under constant tension and popped out the end plug after i removed the clip. One end of the valve has a 1/4' deep hole and the other is flat. This is a different trans than the one in previous comments on this lesson, it is a 1998. This trans was also previously worked on and i dont know exactly what was done. I have 2 questions- first, is this an alternative to the spring kit shown in video? and unfortunately i was thrown off when removing it and dont know which way the vale needs to be reinstalled, any idea? Also, there was a check ball between the end of 2-3 shift valve and shift solenoid B and there was a tiny indentation on the end of the valve where ball was sitting. Is this something you've heard of before?
+chad boren Hi Chad. It sounds like someone has modified the valve body and I am not familiar with what you have described. The only alternative which I can offer is to suggest that you ream it out and install the Sonnax valve kit. About the ball between the shift valve and the solenoid...totally bizarre! Ive never heard of doing this. I hope this helps...Jimmy
+chad boren It sounds like your VB has had a TransGo 4L60E HD2 kit installed. Their replacement for the TCC regulator valve is a one piece valve with a large spring behind it. It has a threaded hole at one end and is flat on the other. It serves the same purpose as the large spring in the video.
+Transmission Bench I've installed the freshly rebuilt trans.... it starts in 2nd gear and shifts smoothly to 3rd, but will not shift to 4th either manually or while in D. It will manually shift to first and upshifts when I bump lever into 2nd but when I slow down in stays in 2nd, same goes for when going from park to D, it will start in 2nd gear. please help
Why didnt gm update there valve body with a repairable tcc sleeve? Anyways I purchased a AC Delco Remand Valve body when I purchased my master overhaul kit. Do you think AC delco addressed the TCC valve when they remand the vb? BTW your video is great I purchased a video three years ago from box wrench for 30$ that wasnt even near as detailed as yours . Thank you.
Transmission Bench Your correct . I had to look. Again thank you for the videos . Im sure people would donate if they used your videos to fix there transmission. . Well worth it.
Joe Love This is a good question. The answer is NO. 1993 and 1994 valve bodies only have a long on/off type of valve which does not wear the bore anywhere near as badly. I leave 93 and 94 VBs as they are. Jimmy
Can I have e-mail contact address if it’s your good will? Whether you give me or not I thank you because you left me with unexpected big knowledge. God bless you, brother!
Why would you ream the bore completely neglecting actual instructions supplied with the tool? Never turn reamer backwards, never use wrenches on a reamer, never ream dry surface (use cutting/tapping liquids). This is an expensive tool, better treat it right!
