This video is a detailed tutorial showing how to reball a BGA chip. In this example we're utilizing a CXD90026G from a PlayStation 4 games console. Sit back and enjoy!
24:35 flux apply on APU after a bit of chat 32:55 heating up an APU 38:27 cleaning process of APU 50:55 cleaning process on motherboard 1:15:46 reballing process of APU
It is very very delicate job to do.When people look it,they think it's easy but no it is very hard to do.But there is no greather happyness when you see that start up and work.Well done again.This is good tutorial and very well explained for common people to see exactly how it works step by step.
You know what I'm going to be deadly honest I thought here we go another bedroom reball possible even just reflow. Then you get to the main board shot where the tutorial starts notice first class job with the tape and from the that point onwards things just get better and better This has to be the absolute best reballing video that I've ever seen absolutely Brilliant. Could I have your details so that I can contact you for details in price etc of you're service. Great video mate absolutely perfect 👍
Very clean job. I wish I had the experience and equipment to repair my own stuff at the component level like this. Depending on the age of the device it may not make financial sense to hire someone like yourself to do it for me. Very different story when you have the expertise and a spare afternoon.
Absolutely. For a jail-broken unit, item of sentimental value or a newer Pro that still has a degree of value I can see the benefit but otherwise as you say not much point in it these days.
Hi Andrew, thankyou for the wonderful tutorial, I wanted to ask which type of soldering iron did used to remove solder balls off the bga. In my case when i used 60watt chinese made iron most of the time it popcorn the Xbox Falcon GPU, i got few success on Xbox 360 slim models only.
Hey!! Grandisimo trabajo! eres un gran profesional, enhorabuena!! Gracias por compartir tu experiencia! Great Job! You're a good professional! Thank you for sharing your experience!
We had been playing on a ps4 pro we had been putting it away in the box still hot but knowing there problem is with heat would it be better to pack it away once it's cooled down to save moving the board about to much
Excellent video! One question, in your profile, what percentage do you set your heaters to for the "soak" stage and the "reflow" stage? They're factory set to 100% on all of them, but I'm getting too much heat on the bottom of the board with that setting.
Hi, I don't use percentages - create a profile specifying the actual degrees you require and let the machine work out the rest. It's the only way to get an accurate profile which will give you reliable, accurate and repeatable results.
It is just a shame that from 31.336 viewers just only 241 hit the "I LIKE THIS GREAT SHIT" button. the other 13 : Fuck off. Great Video, big explanation. Even if i just see it years ago ! Keep on guy !
I just bought an mlink x2 and I was only able to fix a graphics card with it till now. 3 ps4s that had the blue light of death, I tried to reball them and all of them ended with a short in all caps of 0.1ohm while before there was no short. Now they just beep and turn off after one second. What am I doing wrong? To remove the APU 215°C doesn't seem enough like I saw in one of your videos so I need to reach 240 to lift the APU. Then when soldering the 0.55 balls it's reaching 225°C, also when soldering it back it's reaching 225°C. What am I doing wrong? Why 3 APUs got shorted after reballing? Is the temperature killing them? Or can it bee too hot for too long? I admit that the removing ramp is quite long. I'm afraid of it bubbling if I heat it too fast. Ps: without the APU in place, the memory caps measure 8ohms Edit: measuring continuity with the APU off and between the points in the center square, they are measuring 0.1ohms. I don't think this is normal. Somehow I must have killed it
Andrew, great videos! I'm looking to pick up a jovy isolder 40. I'm going to grab a couple tips with the order while I'm at it as they're hard to find in the US. What tips would you recommend are the best for reballing, hdmi port repair, and other general console jobs? I've seen people doing reballs with anything from the TP5 (looks to be what you're using), the TP6, and even the TP46 (25mm spatula style). Are there tips that you found for this unit that don't work well, or ones that work better than others? Cheers!
+Matthew Segroves Also, I don't mind spending the money to get several. Whatever's needed to make the process easier. I'll be ordering everything straight from Jovy
+Matthew Segroves Hi mate, indeed - I use a TP9 and a TP5. The 9 is standard issue and is fine enough for general solder work. The 5 is thicker and more suited to large ground pins / pads and BGA work. They're the only 2 I've tried thus far but I do have some Hakko tips coming which will also fit as I've recently had the TP9 fail on me. Cheers.
+Andrew Paul Thanks Andrew! I'm going to grab those as well as several others with my machine order. I'll let you know which ones I end up liking. I'm definitely curious about using the spatula type for the rework. Worth a shot.
Nice video for a rookie like myself - I do have a couple questions to ask ? Does your same profile work with my machine ( shuttlestar Sv550 ) ? Whats the ideal Temp for Top heater for Reinstalling the chip back to the board ?All advice is welcome -Note pad handy
You are simply amazing. So much precision and patience. Greatest reball i ever saw also!. Thank's for all your infos. Keep doing those videos cause it helps me so much.
Sir can you tell me how much tempature set point or maximum tempreture point for lifting apu and placing apu on board And how much max temprature point placing balls on apu chip
Thanks for the video. I followed your steps to reball a BLOD PS4. Now I'm getting blinking BLOD. What are the odds its an issue with the reball vs other things wrong with the board. I've looks around but done see any damaged or missing components. Thanks.
To be honest bud, they're all much of a muchness. As long as they're sn/pb they'll be fine. I've got some BEST 0.45mm balls and they've been perfectly good. :)
My console beeps 3 times and has the blod every time I turn it on and it will stay with blod until I hold the power for 8 secs or so. Any ideas on what can be causing this?
Braver man than me Andrew so much could go wrong and would if I did this, Anywag thanks for sorting PS4 out, when's a good time to pick it up, its me Simon
+Fernando Baena I got it on a very good deal from a local supplier I happened to stumble across at the time I was looking to purchase one - around £200 less than the usual retail value. You can get them from a few places though - if you're UK based Farnell would be a good place to look but it's not cheap kit. That said, you only get one pair of lungs so look after them and suddenly the cost doesn't seem like a lot to pay any more ha ha!
Andrew my nephew's PS4 turns on for 5 seconds and shuts off when I opened it to put some temporary rubber washers just to try fixing it for him the part wasn't there every video on RU-vid I seen it was on top it's on the bottom no joy though and ideas I cleaned the chip and repasted it but no luck thanks
Hey man I've subscribed. I like your videos as they are very detailed and your very precautious. Can you please do a video describing your rework profiles. I have a LY8500 and have watched so many videos and seeing people remove the chips at 218 degrees. I've got a scrap ps3 to play with and im at 280 degrees and the solder balls still aren't melting but the chip is popping and bubbling and i know it's destroyed at this point. I just want to be able to remove and reball the APU's. Your help would be much appreciated.
Questions What's the timing on the profile steps? That is how long should I leave it on 120 degrees Celsius then turn it up to 200 and so on? And dose this temperature profile work for an old fat model PS3 board?
I'd imagine you may struggle with a smaller machine like that one as the PS4 board has a LOT of copper and dissipates heat incredibly well hence the larger machines being recommended for these types of board. It might be worth a test on a scrap / donor board however to see if it will.
good answer, that is very true. just reading wiki:- "Copper has a thermal conductivity of 231 Btu/(hr-ft-F). This is higher than all other metals except silver, a precious metal. Copper has a 60% better thermal conductivity rating than aluminium and a 3,000% better rating than stainless steel.[5]" I know from when I do plumbing at home soldered joints the heat goes along the copper pipes really fast.
@@AndrewPaul hi Andrew, iam looking for a medium priced reball station somewhere around 1500 dollar. I prefer IR heating and a 3 way machine. Is that something you can recommend? Will be using it for ps4 reballing. Hope to hear from you.
Early in this video you said that you should use syringe so what kind of syringe would I use. Is it for hot flux? I've been trying to recall ps3s with no success yet.
Ideally you'll want a syringe as it makes applying flux under the edge of the IC easier but you can persist with a brush as per the video if you don't have one.
I'm trying to thing of a motherboard fault you couldn't fix...atm I'd say maybe one that's cracked completely in half..even then I wouldn't bet against you patching it up haha. .straight genius you are sir!
Quite often it's labelled on the stencils you use. If in doubt, get a set of universal stencils and offer them up to the pads until you find one where the pad just about fits inside the hole of the stencil. You can then use the corresponding sized balls for that BGA. As a quickie - PS4 APU is 0.55mm, Southbridge and RAM I use 0.45mm.
@@AndrewPaul very helpful! Can you please tell me what the PS4 Slim WiFi/Bluetooth module size is and PS3 Super Slim size as I have 0 stencils and am gonna attempt all of these by hand? 😂😭
The PS4 WiFi module I don't use balls as the pads are very large - I use a large chisel tip on a soldering iron, get a ball of solder on the tip and then run the ball across the pads with plenty of flux. Don't touch the pads, just hover the iron above as you go. PS3 SS I'm not sure as I've never done one. The older PS3 CELLs and RSXs were 0.60mm so I'd assume these would likely be similar but could be wrong.
@@AndrewPaul I tried doing that exact technique but on the PS3 SS and I got wifi but no Bluetooth, then after a bit I lost wifi as well. So I’m guessing the solder balls weren’t exactly even in size?? Idk I just know that I hate BGA chips so much man
hello I'm sorry what kind of tin do you recommend for reballing on ps4 like this video? the 0.550mm only? or can you use 0.50mm or 0.60mm? on BGA CXD90026G stencil? Why in the various sites use they say the 90x90mm stencil they say to use the 0.60mm I do not know you give me some advice? Thank you very much!
0.55 is perfect as that is what's used in production - you could use 0.5 to get a bit more space on the pads but you don't need it to be honest. 0.6 is too big - no idea why anyone would recommend that, regardless of stencil size the holes and pads remain the same.
@@AndrewPaul : thanks dear I write from Italy I'm a generic technician but I really like the repair on the console ... then if you pass me a few links where to fill the good flux and the good pool I would be infinitely grateful! hello and thanks again! See you soon! :)
Hi Paul! great channel, i want to make an question, i have an ps4, the gpu is the cxd90037G, did you know if i can use the stencil from an CXD90026G? i don take appart yet, because i dont know if i be abble to put it again, thanks!!
Hi Alan, Yes mate I have it installed on my machine - it's useful for concentrating the heat solely onto the BGA which prevents unwanted heat being applied to components / connectors etc close by which might be affected.
hi andrew nice work man but i wanna ask u somthing why when i am heating the chip some balls are connected together? and what is the ideal temperature for heating ?
Without sensor you have no idea as to the board or die temps - that means you risk pulling the APU with pads from the board or worse and popcorning the chip rendering it useless. You really do need the sensors for APU rework ideally - one of the most important parts is knowing what temps everything is at.
Brilliant watch that. Would love to get into all this. That aside though why didn't they just make the APU chip like a CPU chip on a PC & just use a metal clamp to hold/remove it if needed? 🤔
Very nice job, just watching it again after a few years.i owned a miserable one this time, an YL IR-8500 . I will retry with a better one because it did not hold on the spot. It did not react by temperature and time, it EXPECT that a TEMP is reached in the defined time. And no, not commercial. Just payable hobby :) To be honest i was able to fix a hand full of ps3/ps4. But i would never recommend my machine used at this time.
Bro. Hi :) Please help me !!! Is it possible to CHANGE GPU??? I'm stupid, i broken GPU when I turned it ON without heatsink (dissipator). Now phases op GPU have 1 Ohm to GND and console do not turning on.... Please tell me if is possible just replace GPU ? Or I have to replace GPU and other ICs ? My motherboard is SAD-003. So if I buy another sad-003 and will replace GPU, NOR, Syscon and Renesas will I get working console with working BD-ROM ???
Hello friend, I liked your video a lot. do you repair PLAY STATION 4 worldwide? It was that mine needs a reballing and in my country they do not do that work. do you accept play station 4 by mail? and how much do you charge for work?
Hi dear! I wanted to ask you a good reworking reballing machine, for console ps3 xbox ps4 etc .. cheap but good, among these models could you tell me what could be one that is very close to your quality? the models are: ACHI IR6500 or ACHI IR PRO SC? obviously quality price .. if then you have a better you to recommend me I would be infinitely grateful !!!!!! Thanks 1000 !!!!
Hey nice work in currently trying to fix a ps4 I've worked on many different consoles and I've tried and tested everything except rebelling because I don't have the equipment to do it i guess my question is where do i send it to be rebelled and normally how much does it cost.
Depends where you're located mate to be fair. In the UK expect to pay between £70-90 for a proper reball - but do beware as a lot of places will advertise reball and simply reflow, or don't have the necessary equipment and use heat guns etc which simply don't work for any longer than a few weeks if you're lucky. If the price is really cheap then it's probably not being done as it should. Find a reputable repairer and you should be set. Cheers.
Ok I'm confused about the meaning of the name Non Connected pads for BGA motherboards. While lifting the apu on ps4 motherboard I only lifted one Non Connected pad. It had copper on the bottom of the solder ball but when tried to get it off the chip I lost it. Darn! So my question is do I even have to replace the pad and if I do then does it matter so much how wide or thick the copper pad is as long as it's close. I've got some copper sheets that I can make little circles out of 0.25mm around as opposed to the 0.18mm around that the holes really are but they're about twice as thick the ps4's bga copper pads though. What do I do?
No but I will try to get you one or give you number on Sunday night when I get home. It's in putter edge near/at one on the corners and it defiantly non connected.
If it's definitely an 'NC' pad then just leave that ball off when you reball the BGA - in those instances you don't need to reinstate the pad. The same goes for the odd ground pad if you're ever missing one of those.
Your videos on hdmi replacement gave me hope to replace the broken ports :) Can I buy the rework station that you are using? I have 5 constant blod in my shop cheers mate..
How much will it cost in U.S. dollars? I can't find them here.. Also what else will i need to recall the apu? Hands down to all of your precious time and videos. Grateful for life :)
7500 www.ebay.com/itm/Jovy-Re-7500-and-transformer-ST-2000/192482458428?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 or 8500 www.ebay.com/itm/RE-8500-Rework-System-BGA-SMD-Jovy-Systems/173184098049?hash=item2852939f01:g:YjQAAOSwNDJafLd2
Andrew,got my friend to ring me with a few more details with regards his this BLOD PS4 he's been given.He's informed me that the factory security seal is infact,still intacted and not tampered with.When he powers up the console,he can hear the fan for a few seconds but then it goes very quiet.He can only turn the console off by unplugging the power lead completely.He's been told that it could be an overheating problem that's causing the BLOD.
I don't normally look at constant pulsing BLOD machines as they're often a hiding to nothing, however as the Sony warranty seals are intact I'll happily take a look if you want to send it in. Often people can make this problem a lot worse when they open them up to tinker. Do you have a contact method I can get you on? Feel free to drop me a private message either on here, Twitter (@YTAndrewPaul) or eBay www.ebay.co.uk/usr/lufcfan2004 and I can send you the relevant details. Cheers mate.
I have fixed a PS4 and at least two models of Sony Vaio laptops with GPU problems that prevented booting up by literally bathing the motherboard in open flame out of frustration. I figured that it was already useless, so why not just heat it up and see if it reflowed any dodgy solder joints. I can't tell you how surprised I was after hitting the power button actually resulted in a beep and a picture onscreen after so many times I had been greeted by just a blank nothing... Unleaded solder is utter crap. Most recent success was a PS4 that seemed to be suffering hdmi issues, not even showing up in safe-mode. After a look at the port revealed no bent pins, I decided to heat the board up behind the port just in case of bad joints and dragged a torch across the area of the encoder chip for good measure and was shocked when that suddenly caused it to start up and shut off immediately, which was a whole different problem than the no-signal issue, so I took it apart again, heated up the area beneath the main chip and reassembled with a couple pieces of cardboard added under the clamp behind the heat sink and very much to my surprise was rewarded with a proper picture and boot up and am back in business with my psvr again. I credit all those old threads discussing putting malfunctioning video cards in their ovens and toasters for saving me a lot of money , if not a lot of frustration....
Hi, What does the console do when you attempt to power it on? Also, are the factory warranty seals fully intact and untampered with at the middle rear of the console? Many thanks.
+Andrew Paul brilliant! Ive been focusing on getting a jbc or hakko fx-951 but clearly here this does the job. I've been using a csi 2901 for 5 years and struggled on with each reball. Time to invest! I'm struggling to find a supplier of the isolder in the UK, you wouldn't happen to know someone?
+ian porter I ordered mine from below but the UK store appears to be down at the moment - their worldwide store is still open however: www.thebgastore.com/
+thomas clephane Hi Thomas, I've never used it so I'm really not sure. The bottom heater looks a little on the small side for this type of motherboard so I'd be tempted for a bigger machine. The one Achi machine I had (an IR-Pro-SC v4) I really didn't like hence the Jovy RE-8500 upgrade I'm currently running which I highly recommend.
+tactical67 Hi, The fume extraction system is a Weller WFE-2ES. I highly recommended this piece of equipment. Good quality fume extraction is something which no PCB rework technician should be without.
Hi bro please tell me can we change PS4 Apu Actually I already changed my PS4 Apu to another PS4 butt it's still on blod I change the nor and syscon chip and it's still on blod please tell me what's wrong
If you're doing an APU swap between consoles then you need APU / Syscon / NOR and Renesas / Mediatek chip from the donor console. All the above must match (i.e. be from the same donor machine). If you're still experiencing BLOD then you either have a bridge under the APU, solder bridge on the Syscon, defective donor APU or a further issue on the motherboard not related to any of the above - remember that a pulsing BLOD is a generic error state - could quite possibly be defective RAM, bad VReg somewhere, failed FET etc.
