Having this problem currently with gorilla 8.6 ammo in the fix.. Problem is I cannot just use another ammo because no one else is making any right now..
@@D0nkeyman There is an ole boy on SH, that took his spring and sent it to a spring manufaturer. They made him a heavier version of the spring and he said he has shot some 200+ rounds now with no issues.. I've bought a couple from him and will report back..
@@lindsayraines1060 where did you get them and can I purchase any? Might as well try that- no point in having a light bolt handle if the thing wont fire
I have the same problem with my Fix 308. Sometimes if I try a second time some of them would go off. This is on Military surplus ammo. Very good video.
With a bolt action rifle keep your brass separate for that rifle and when you reload use a RCBS neck size only die that way that brass is fire formed to that rifle. This should give you the same head spacing on every cartridge.
Some Redding competition shell holders might help you some. You can easily add a couple thousand's to your cases for your fix rounds. That might help. I also wonder if Q would just add or remove a little mass in the firing pin should fix the fix.
Hey, thanks for info. I use a Dillion RL550C for my press so I'm kind of stuck without being able to use shell holders like that, but I can definitely adjust my sizing die to bump the shoulder of I need to. For me it's just easier to use CCI 400's so I can load fast and shoot more. :) I was thinking that same thing, a little bit more length on the firing pin would do wonders for sure. I'd be willing to bet that this issue would disappear based on all of the light strikes that I had being shorter shouldered cases.
Man! Great video. I love the mini fix but j had no clue as to this issue till I bought one. Was very discouraging at first. Like you I went to lighter primer cup and it runs for me. I am forced to reload for it as I am pretty sure all the cheaper blackout ammo will use the harder cups. What kind of groupings are you getting ?
Hey, nice. Yeah, that's be a major bummer to not be a reloader and get stuck with this issue. I'm getting around 1" groups at 100 with my vmax h110 loads. My main subs for this gun are lil gun/195 eld-m (blems) and they are around 1.5-2" at 100. I load on a Dillon 550 and just use mixed brass, and don't bother too much with trimming unless the cases are long though, so my seating depth varies and case volume varies. I haven't gotten consistent low SDs and don't really care, lol. I just like to shoot a lot so I load for volume mostly.
Yeah I am not getting very good sd either. I usually run match primers with my prs stuff and can get sub 10 fps. But that primer is too hard for ignition. I ve put this project on the back burner for a while. I really want subs to shoot prairie dogs here in a few weeks
Yeah I am not getting very good sd either. I usually run match primers with my prs stuff and can get sub 10 fps. But that primer is too hard for ignition. I ve put this project on the back burner for a while. I really want subs to shoot prairie dogs here in a few weeks
Really great analysis of this issue. My first mini-fix actually had a worse version of the light strike issue. I tried many different types of factory ammo but only got about 50% ignition. I sent the bolt in to Q and they were able to get it fixed. In that case I had an actual defect but Q’s customer service was great. I did notice even after the factory repair that certain ammo would get a fail to fire. I eventually found the same thing that you did, that loading with CCI 400 primers gave me 100% reliability. I’m glad you were able to nail down the main factor as to why some of the military primers would work and some wouldn’t. It definitely makes sense that headspace plays a role in this.
Yeah, that's super solid IMO. My experience with Q is the same. I had a faulty cheek piece for the fix stock and they didn't hesitate and just mailed me another. Cheers.
How do you know what primers are in factory ammo? I just bought a minifix in 556 16” and all I’ve shot is Hornady match 223 75gr and federal GMM 223 77gr and out of 150ish rounds i haven’t had a light primer strike “yet” Hornady match 223 75gr is the most accurate so i plan to stick with that if it doesn’t have hard primers.
@@ConcealedSteel yeah so far both of them have been flawless. I sent Hornady a message to see if they will tell me what kinda primers they use. I hope it’s not a hard style. I’d imagine if it was i would he having issues already maybe. Shot 3 boxes of Hornady match 75gr, 1 box Hornady 55 vmax, 1 box Hornady black 62gr fmj, 2 boxes of Federal GMM 77gr, 1 box of Wilson combat 77gr, 1 box of federal 69gr and 1 box of federal 73gr. Maybe since all of those are 223 and not 556 that makes a difference since 556 usually has hard primers. I did lots of testing yesterday with all that since i know the 300 version had issues with light primer strikes. Plus i wanted to see which one had the best accuracy as well as function.
Good deal. I've read the same, that it's only been with the 300 AAC version. I really love this thing anyway, shot a bunch with it today. I load my own so it's not a big deal for me, and I knew going into it that there may be problems to solve.
@@ConcealedSteel yeah that’s what off mainly read as well, but if you reload anyway that makes it a little easier at least so you can stay away from certain primers. I have a 308 fix as well and haven’t had any light primer strikes, but I’ve seen where people had issues with those and 6.5 as well. I run Hornady ammo through it as well but mainly Hornady black and so far so good. I don’t enjoy shooting it though. This 556 version is so much fun. Anyways thanks for the video very informative.
