Quick Fix Hack - Toyota Tundra Front Brake Rotor Removal and Replacement 

glad you liked my video. Normally I would not promote such a fix BUT I also know that things in life don't always have to be so regimented. Hacking things in a "good way" is never a bad thing if it saves money and time :) Thanks for watching.

you're most welcome. Glad you liked it.

No problem! Thanks for stopping by.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Glad I could help!

Glad my video helped!

glad you liked the video!

You are welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

Nice! Go show them up and flex your know how!

thanks! I wouldn't fret too badly on the rotor replacement. You can't really botch it. Just follow the instructions exactly and you'll be good as new.

ommar morales You can doo itt!!

@@piercedasian can you tell me wat can a screw I have to put on the rotors to pulled out please

I'm glad you like it

glad you liked it!

As a matter of fact I do but I don't know if I have edited the footage yet. It's really not hard at all. Let me see if I can dig up some footage.

I don't always use a torque wrench on every fastener due to the accessibility issues or extremely low torque values where you're better off using common sense judgement (based on years of experience) than using a torque wrench which may not have the accuracy needed in extremely low torque ranges (think of someone using a torque wrench on a license plate bolt - Yes I've seen people do that for some silly reason. The flex line is in my eyes a terrible design (from a serviceability standpoint) BUT the geniuses at Toyota clearly had their reasons why that design was best so we will need to trust that they really do know what they're doing when it comes to the design.

Good tip. While I've never had to do that, that it certainly doesn't hurt to degrease as you have pointed out.

Thanks for that!

In the case of the tundra warping the rotors (actually called run out) it can be caused by multiple factors namely, the caliper slide pins are causing the pads to bind up, or the caliper itself might be sticking slightly and/or possibly the torquing of the lug nuts was uneven. The way I often solve problems like this is not put on slotted/cross drilled rotors on the car but rather that I make sure my brake fluid is flushed and clean, my caliper pistons and boots are clean and move freely and making sure my slide points on my pads and caliper bracket are cleaned and lubed up with the appropriate lubricant. When installing new rotors make sure the mating surfaces on the hub where the rotors make surface contact are clean and corrosion free (coat with a super super SUPER thin coat of copper antiseize paste if you want). Install the wheel and even torque the lug nuts down to spec and you should be good. Don't ever buy crap quality rotors. Always buy rotors with high carbon steel content in them and as long as you follow the guidelines I've set forth that you should have brakes that run true for a very very long time. I'm still running the front rotors swapped in this video and the factory rear rotors and I've done a bunch of towing with ZERO braking issues. Maintenance and cleanliness of the braking components goes a long way to ensure your brakes run true and reliably. Hope that helps.

I'm wondering if I should get new pins and clips because of the age of the truck. Also the place that does my inspection are mostly young guys and just in a hurry to do the work. I think I will do the work on all my brakes to make sure everything is properly lubed and working right. Thank you for getting back to me. I appreciate it

the rotors were either not turned correctly or there was a slight error in the reinstallation of the parts. Double check your work but don't rule out the rotors being incorrectly machined.

I’ve spoken to several Toyota mechanics that recommended that I replace the rotors everytime I replace the pads due the the warping problems. These are big trucks and quite a bit of weight so it makes sense. It’s easy to overheat them.

yep, I've used a wire brush on a drill to clean the face of wheel hubs prior to reinstalling new rotors on them. Most rotors I work on are too worn or badly rusted out to be worth salvaging and rotors are relatively inexpensive to replace if you do your own labour :)

My suggestion is to use some penetrating lube on the bolt and then use a breaker bar along with a cheater bar. You may end up breaking either the bolt or damaging the caliper so just keep that in mind when you're trying to break the bolt free. If you DO get the bolt free you may want to replace the bolt with a new one (assuming caliper isn't damage) b/c the bolt would likely be stretched and its strength compromised.

@@piercedasian Thanks man. After unsuccessfully being able to loosen the bolt, I just put everything back together and must have sprayed the caliper bolts 10 times on Sunday then left the car alone for 2 days (Monday/Tuesday). After 3 days (On Wednesday) I tried it again and boom! I was able to loosen the bolt 😁. I have now completed the front brake pad/rotor job. Today I am doing the rears which should be a lot easier. Going with 70 ft lbs on caliper bolts and 65 ft lbs on those caliper slide bolts.

well done! Its amazing what penetrating lube, time and sometimes heat can do to break rusted bolts free! Glad to hear you were able to get it all fixed up!

Not unless you're the type of person that tops off your brake fluid often. Since I keep close watch on my brake fluid level as an approximate indicator of how much brake pads I have left that when I compress the pistons back into the caliper that the fluid that was drawn down into the system would simply refill the reservoir that it came from. Like anything, always double check the levels and if gets too full then use a plastic spoon or clean turkey baster suctioning tool to remove the excess fluid and carry on.

I did actually! I didn't bother showing it in my video because most folks won't have a gauge to measure runout in a reasonably easy way. Its amazing how little runout it measured yet the impact so profound that it drive me crazy when braking at highway speeds.

Thanks for sharing that!

Mine was smaller than M8…..

And my caliper bolts are 19mm not 17mm like all these videos say.

Probably not until the spring but I will need new ones for sure by then.

possibly. On my truck I knew the rotors were due for replacement since the dealership I purchased my truck from said they were running a tad on the thin side after they machined them and sold me the truck.

Why not just stick with the stock solid/vented rotors? Slotted rotors merely help with cleaning the dust off the pads while cross drilled are for cooling. If I had to choose between the two I'd choose cross drilled.

@@piercedasian Thank you :)

If you pull a camper or trailer, go with the Drilled.

@@13billiejo Boat trailer all summer long, just worried that drilled will rust more here in Ottawa

My rotors had some bad run out but that's because the original rotors had over 120,000 km on them. I don't think they warp that easily. My original rotors had already been machined once (so they're inherently thinner) and they had some significant heavy tow miles on them. I don't think this is an issue for the 2nd gen Tundras.

My 2016 warped too. I replaced rotors and pads with aftermarket parts! Not sure why Toyota can't figure this out and ditch their current OEM rotors??

@@piercedasian so youre saying that it is a known problem for first gen Tundras? I have an 02 and thought I was doing something wrong;

It is still a major issue on the 2nd and 3Rd gen tundras. To save on rotors I've learned to downshift for hard or high speed slowdowns.

I picked up my Tundra at 65k and am now doing the brakes at 130k. The rotors have been warped the entire time, like another person noted, I downshift and only lightly use the brakes so I have not been too worried about it. IT is ignorant that Toyota seems to note be near the truck t he hype makes it out to be. Beyond the Rotor the mileage is garbage and my hemi towed better and got better mileage. T he clear coat apparently is hit and miss on these rigs as well with the top coming off over the winter. I was pissed until I read other people who had their clear coat pealed on their entire Truck. Fucking Joke. I will not recommend a Toyota truck and will never buy another.

the goal is get it done quick and right. I did point out in my video that this was a quick and dirty method to swap out rotors quickly. The pads on my truck were actually quite new but the brakes even after the dealership had turned them developed run out and thus was just easier for me to put new ones in rather than taking it back to the dealership for them to basically do the same thing I demonstrated in my video.

@@piercedasian I took it as a joke, but I did enjoy your video. You probably do more quality work yourself.

Afro engineering lol. The rust on the surface was actually pretty minor. I actually have a brush that I couldn't find so screwdriver will have to do.

well.. the video title does say quick hack... and its been years and brakes on my truck work perfectly. Ironically, the truck had to go to the dealership for some minor repair work that I didn't have time to tackle and I paid to have the brakes serviced and they said the brakes are still perfect years after I did this video so it can't be "so much wrong" if that were the case.

So how about list what's wrong instead of making empty shit