Великолепный материал! И что важно для меня это работа и моделирование с применением Компаньена. Сейчас собираю Mystang P-51 700 mm и это очень здорово помогает. Комплектация - PNP, я установил приемник и гироскопы от Radiolink мотор - EMAX. И тут такое ПОПДАНИЕ в 10!! Ваш материал. Продолжайте просвещать "НЕЗНАЕК" Great material! And what is important for me is the work and modeling with Companion. Now I'm building Mystang P-51 700 mm and it helps a lot. Complete set - PNP, I installed the receiver and gyroscopes from Radiolink motor - EMAX. And then such a POP at 10!! your material. Keep enlightening the "Ignorant" )))!!👌😁
Эй, спасибо! Я рад, что вы нашли видео полезным. Удачи вам в сборке P51. Помните, что у Radiolink также есть гироскоп для Delta wing / Flying Wing конструкции Byme-D s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AaDrhd. Спасибо за просмотр, хорошего дня! Hey thanks! I am happy you find the video useful. Good luck with your P51 build Remember that Radiolink also have a gyro for Delta wing / flying wing designs the Byme -D s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AaDrhd. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
@@1nformatica Посмотрел Вашу библиотеку видео - уроков столько всего интересного!!++++ Калибровку гиро - стабилизатора надо проводить каждый раз перед полетом? Я установил его на крыле в фюзеляже обязательно выдерживать угол при калибровке в 10 - 15 градусов? Не все еще понятно с special functions в частности по газу, просто "проговорить" что аппарат arming? ВЫ меня так воодушевили что я засел за сборку P - 51 хорошо, что блоки Radiolink делает как говоря у нас, с "защитой от дурака" несколько раз приемник запитывал с переполюсовкой!((( но оказался "стойким" и не "задымил".!))) Смотрю ваше видео с V = 0,5 включаю субтитры и наушники))) Но понемногу вспоминаю язык. Чистого неба при полетах!! и как говорят летчики ВИДИМОСТЬ 1000000 на 1000000 👌 I watched your video library - there are so many interesting lessons!!++++ Do you need to calibrate the gyro-stabilizer every time before a flight? I installed it on the wing in the fuselage is it necessary to maintain an angle when calibrating 10 - 15 degrees? It's still not clear with special functions, in particular for gas, just "pronounce" that the arming apparatus? YOU inspired me so much that I sat down to assemble P - 51 well, what Radiolink blocks do, as they say with us, with "fool protection" the receiver was powered several times with polarity reversal! (((But it turned out to be "resistant" and did not "smoke". !))) I'm watching your video with V = 0.5, turn on subtitles and headphones))) But little by little I remember the language. Clear skies when flying!! and as the pilots say VISIBILITY 1000000 per 1000000👍
Hey me old Pommie mate. Hope you are steering clear of the currently worsening situation in Europe! The A and D finally landed here and I've been playing with them today. Blu-tacked them and some other gear to a board and got them set up pretty quickly - many thanks to those who have made all the possible mistakes before me. 😁 I am using a Turnigy iA6C receiver with S-bus and PPM output (the only thing I've currently got with 8 channels.) Driving it with my RadioMaster TX16S since my old FS-i6 hasn't been updated. Was a bit worried about that "Transmitter Phase Setup....CH3 - Throttle: Reversed .... Other Channels : Normal" - but just set it up as all Tx channels normal and ch5 on a 3 position and 7 on a 2 position. It all fired up with the only proviso that the level calibration stick positions were left stick down and out and right stick up and out (not down and out as in manual - something youse pioneers have found previously.) Mode 2 Tx. I was using a ZOHD ESC and motor for the Dart250 and 1 quirk I noticed was that on trying to calibrate the ESC there was no sign of the usual "music" but pulled the stick down as usual and the throttle worked OK. However on disconnecting the motor leads when I was trying all Combination Stick Positions to activate the calibration I found that I had lost throttle control. Recalibrated the ESC and all good. Tried all the switch positions and rattled the timber base about and everything looks good on both the A and D. Got a little 800mm pusher kit arriving next week so we'll see how it goes. I really need a light receiver as well but the Frsky XM+ that I've just got from the Oz Banggood site is giving me grief. May be loaded with the wrong firmware for use with the TX16S so more learning to do. Life wasn't meant to be easy! 😜 EDIT...Might have been just my missing hearing aids with the quiet ESC calibration and/or didn't have the switches in "Manual" or the Throttle Lock turned off - lot of possibilities for a bumbling Old Fart! ;-)
Hey Bruce! You're all called Bruce, right?! I happen to have a ZOHD Drift on the bench at the moment that has similar issues with calibrating the ESC via the flight controller (Also ZOHD). I think it's related to the throttle channel not going to +100 to trigger the setup. I have an old H-King Bonsai EPP Wing 600mm waiting for the Byme-D transplant but too many projects on the go at the moment! I've been around the XM+ firmware thing but thought it was just a European issue, your TX16S does not have EU LBT on it by chance? Anyway ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IryRVaSDrT4.html Thanks for the update, interesting stuff!
@@1nformatica Yep, had a look at your vid, M'Lud! Reckon I'll have to watch a few more Youtubies on the TX16X first and wait till we've got a gang of old mates together to increase the short-term memory capabilities before I tackle anything that needs doing. ( also helps to have more folks present to blame when the Daisy-doo hits the rotating device!) 😁
@@theoztreecrasher2647 "blame when the Daisy-doo hits the rotating device!" Love it! Gonna steal that one! Let me know your progress. The TX16S is top on my shopping list are you happy with it?
@@1nformatica Yair. Way more capabilities than I'll ever use - more in your line. Bit more bulky than I'm used to and I guess I'll never completely retire the trusty old FS-i6 for it's simplicity and small form factor. But the ability to use OpenTX and buy any receiver that suits (and is cheap at the time) is a real boon for us. All that's missing is the 2-button instant mode 1-2 switch of the old Flysky Tx for the WLToys V950 heli so we could hand it round amongst our mixed group of mode 1/2 fliers. 😁
A question for you. I have finally got around to trying my BYME-D on an old "Bonsai" wing. It is giving me grief! Powers up fine and calibrates. Can calibrate using "down and out" stick movement and all control surfaces move as they should. Manual mode is fine. BUT in gyro mode it's very twitchy and in stabilised mode, well, it just goes full elevator up with one elevon slowly descending. Switching back to gyro mode is then screwed up also and have to pull the battery. Any ideas?!
Hi, I checked in your channel and did not find out a video of this Sakura in the air. Did I miss something? I would really love to see it flying with the different mode. By the way, very good tutorial:-)
Sadly the plane did not survive long enough to be filmed! I am happy you liked the video, I have since moved on to use the Hobbyeagle A3 Mini you can see here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RCeqSK4avgg.html
Hey thanks! That is how I discovered the module when looking for just a converter. Have fun! RU-vid no longer shows me if you are subscribed. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
@@1nformatica Thanks ! I've already subscribed 🙂 The only problems I see with the Byme-A are not being able to reverse the throttle, in order to use it in a pusher prop configuration (correct me if I'm wrong) and being limited to 4 channels, as opposed to 8 or 16, as is the case with a standard converter. Then again, all the modes (acro, 3D etc) are great to have 😀 On a side note, it's sad to see how this great hobby is being heavily regulated, not just here in Australia, but around the world 😞😡
@@dingalarm Yes, horses for courses! You can't reverse the throttle as far as I know. It's fun trying out the different modes. Unfortunately the over regulation just makes more people ignore the rules and causes more problems than it solves. My objective is just to have fun!!
Hello sir! Thanks for the info. These are brilliant gyros, both the A and D. One question for you please, if you’d be so kind: is it possible to use use these with an ELRS rx? I’m thinking there might be an issue with the limitation in ELRS of channel 5 being an ‘on/ off’ switch only, i.e. 2-position only. Byme requires a 3-position switch hardcoded to channel 5, right? Cheers!
The Byme gyros will not work with ELRS SBUS. For this and other reasons I have switched to using the HobbyEagle A3Mini gyro. It is fully programmable and now supports CRSF as well. See : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CSes79quFJ8.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GtrSpg_7Mgc.html Note that SBUS support in now in the new 3.3 ELRS release. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Finally got the Byme-A working and into the air successfully in a Banggood Little Pigeons pusher with added ailerons. Tx/Rx FS-i6X/A6B or TX16S/A6B. The A6B had to be used (S-Bus and PWM output!) so I could run a Y-chord to isolate the throttle from the Byme-A output since there was no way to get the throttle to stop the motor continuing to run at 0! ESC calibrated without the Stab in circuit but seemed impossible to adjust to 0 through the Byme-A. Could just be something this old fool was missing but seems to work OK in ALL Modes like that so what the hell! ;-) You asked about the Byme-D some time back. I've been trying to use it on a Zohd Mini AR Wing without success - same problems as you in Fully Stabilized Mode. Gave up and added a Kopilot instead. I'll have to get back to it and see if I can find out what the heck is going on.
Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing. I was OK with the throttle on my Byme-A installation, maybe I got lucky! As for the Byme-D still no joy. I even tried with the Radiolink Transmitter / Rx combo I reviewed recently. Surely that must work? NO! Exactly the same as with the Taranis. No idea what the issue is. When / if I go back to it I'll make a video and send to Radiolink support, they've been very helpful in the past.
@@theoztreecrasher2647 Sound advice my antipodean friend! I think that may be the root of many peoples problems. Things generally work for me using my Taranis but folks I fly with using Futaba seems to hit strange problems like this. Time to get the SBUS analyser out!
@@1nformatica The output range needed to select each mode seems odd on these too! EG Blowy Fly RC here in his video on the Volantex V768-1 Mustang....ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2C5YkNc9VIM.html shows that 3 modes are selectable with the ch5 3-position switch even without the ch7 2-position switch being enabled in his radio set-up! (Stabilized, Gyro and Manual) So the default ch7 midpoint setting, which I assume is 1500us, seems to be good for switch "Up" - 1 range shown on 1 of the Radiolink manuals that I have seen shows a valid range of 1300-2048us but other valid ranges shown are the totally odd 0-700 and 700-1300. Regardless, on our TX16S driving a Flysky A8S (set for S-bus) all 5 modes are selectable with the 2 switches on 5 & 7 when we set the Byme-A up in an Eachine Flying Fish. (No extended limits.) Have not tried your Byme-D set-up in a wing yet. Too many funeral directors and surgeons joining our acquaintance lately!
A couple more Byme units have been reported to have needed the lower throttle output extended to as much as -125% to stop the motor. Obviously a lot of variability in these.
This gyro only has one aileron channel so, no, it won't work. I have since moved on to another small gyro that has dual aileron control which may do what you want : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rPhf0cLP1hw.html Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Hello,is anyone know that this Radiolink brand Byme A flight controller can be power up by just using only 1s(3.7v) lipo power supply,I saw that the instruction manual says it supports only 5v-6v ,hence will it work fine with just 1s power ?
I think you have answered your own question! As 1S is 3.7 v and the Byme need 5v it is not going to work reliably. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Yes. The Byme-A needs an SBUS or PPM receiver. A better option would be this : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rPhf0cLP1hw.html Thanks for watching, have a great day!
The Byme -A is just a flight controller. You need to provide a receiver with SBUS or PPM output to connect to the transmitter. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
Have you tried connecting with the ELRS receiver? Four modes work well (Stabilize Mode, Gyro Mode, Acrobat Mode, Manual Mode, Vertical Mode), and two more (Acrobat Mode, Manual Mode) are buggy... Apparently due to the feature of ELRS. Haven't found a solution yet.
Thanks for the info. I don't use the Radiolink gyros now. My preferred option is the Habbyeagle A3 Mini : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rPhf0cLP1hw.html I have a new ELRS receiver arriving soon, I will test it with the A3 Mini. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
@@vovvw Not really much difference in size : drive.google.com/file/d/1TBRJhTfzPT2TAgA8tAwrB6nesvjjY6ay/view?usp=sharing The A3 Mini is 1.7 g heavier but you could remove the case!
@@1nformatica Yes, A3 is good! Except it costs more. With the help of the SBUS checker, I determined that the problem lies in channel 5. In elrs, this is arm, i.e. only 2 positions, and for Byme-A you need 3 ... an unsolvable problem)))
@@1nformatica I read the docks for the A3 mini, it also does not have the ability to change the control channel from 5 to another. The question is to the manufacturer whether they can fix this in the firmware.
Thanks for your video. I wanted to program the Byme-A for the Radiomaster TX16s. Manual mode works, but as soon as I switch to gyro mode, the rudders go to full deflection. So far I haven't managed to attitude calibration (1x flashing). What channel value does channel 7 have for you if you have channel 5 in manual mode?
This can get confusing real quick! I have copied a Byme A model from my Taranis using Open Tx companion here : drive.google.com/file/d/1bm-e-B7LJ3b4YauhUQ5A8IhQ7lPQEQGJ/view?usp=sharing You will see I have CH5 on switch SG and CH7 on switch SC. If you simulate the model and page to the "Channel Monitor" you will see the values for each of the gyro modes. You will see in the "Special functions" I have generated my own sound files for each mode. Let me know if you would like a copy of them. Hope that helps!
@@1nformatica Thanks for your answer. I was able to fix the problem in the meantime: The Sbus signal was not correct for the Byme-A. I had connected an Ibus receiver, which I had converted to Sbus when binding. But that doesn't work. When binding with FrSky Sbus, the connection with the Byme-A worked correctly.
@@rehnstromm If you mean the Taranis OpenTx settings file it is here : drive.google.com/file/d/1bm-e-B7LJ3b4YauhUQ5A8IhQ7lPQEQGJ/view?usp=sharing Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Is there anyway to adjust the gyro sensitivity? I'm coming from quad-copter that we have different PID set for different quad. I think the ZOHD Kopilot controller also has a separated board for changing the setting.
In the manual it says "11. Gyro Sensitivity There is certain stability margin for the Byme-D PID control. To different models, if Byme-D under correct or over correct, pilots can try adjusting the rudder angle." I know it says Byme-D not A but I guess it is the same. I have asked RadioLink for clarification on how this works. Let me know the results if you try it!!
I have clarification from RadioLink. There is no way to alter the PIDs on the controller. All you can do is to change the position of the control rods in the servo horn and control surface to increase or decrease the throw hence sensitivity.
@@1nformatica Thanks for your reply. I was amazed by how good the stabilization system on their PNP A560, especially the vertical mode, I’m wondering how it would perform on a smaller plane like yours. I'm a bit hesitant to fly the a560 with big 8" open prop on my local park. Looking forward to your maiden flight, great build!
Very good video. Have you had a chance to fly the Sakura? I'm using a Taranis Plus. I have installed the BYME in a 2m. glider. When in the ACRO mode, the elev. reacts in the wrong direction to recover and stabilize. The stick controls are set right. Sometimes, in the gyro mode with me moving the plane around, it just short circuits and cuts out. At that point it would crash. I was hoping a small lightweight stabilizer like this would work for me. Right now, I don't trust it. Thanks for your work.
I've flown it a little and will make a video when I can. Travel restrictions and high winds making it difficult. The servo directions MUST be set by the Byme, not on the transmitter. When testing is the receiver loosing signal? I find that when the TX and Rx are too close the signal can drop in and out. Could be the problem you see. Please consider subscribing if you haven't done so already!!
Greg, I believe I figured out what was wrong, don't ask me to explain as I don't want to remember, ha. I sent you a coffee as a small payment for all your work.
Hi, It is a "frsky" clone, I don't think it's available anymore : bit.ly/FrSKY_FD1000_Rx RU-vid no longer shows me if you are subscribed. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
That transmitter will be OK, just follow the channel order as shown in the documentation. More important is the receiver. You need one that can output PPM or SBUS to connect to the byme-A. Remember that any servo reversal must be done on the byme-A not the Tx. Please consider subscribing if you haven't done so already!!
@@1nformatica Hi, I contacted Radiolink people and indeed they respond very quickly - as you mentioned :) Initially they recommended trying different configurations with a 6-channel radio but also confirms that I definitely would not be able to use all features of Byme_A with a 6-channel radio. And I tried but it did not work at all - I guess the signal on channel 7 is a must and Byme-A won't work without it. Wrote them again and asked if other flysky radios (with higher number of channels) would be compatible. They confirmed that they would. Well I could not decide but finally decided to buy a new Radiolink radio and went for AT9S. And it finally works :) I installed it on my Flitetest mighty mini mustang. I tested it is a relatively strong wind and it worked perfectly so it made me very happy because now do not need to wait for good weather to fly it. And you made a great point about attitude calibration. Initially I used to too much angle and the plane kept pitching in stabilization mode. After a quick correction it felt like on a string. Definitely recommend it. Now Byme-D is waiting for me to figure it out ;)
@@bzyksyn3950 _•:*¨¨*:•_•:*¨¨*:•_ EXCELENTE_•:*¨¨*:•_•:*¨¨*:•_!! Happy you have it working OK now. I also have a Byme-D on the bench, will be interesting to compare.
@@1nformatica just started building an easy EDF jet scratch build and planning to install my Byme-D on it. It will be my first jet so having some stabilization on it will definitely be beneficial :)
Hey! Even if your video is very informative, I keep having troubles to setup byme a with my tx16s and FS Ia6b receiver. I can see that my (both 3 pos switches) channels 5 and 7 are working on the radio, but when I power model up, gyro works right away but it does not seem to react on ch5, ch7 or any gimbal movement. Radio is bonded to receiver but for some reason its not working.
My best guess is that the receiver is not setup correctly for PPM output. In the TX16s menu there are many options see : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zKN2w-_zkH8.html
@@1nformatica thank you very much sir for you answer. One more question, should ailerons react on gimballs movement regardless of mode currently selected? I'll double check ppm/pwm settings but frankly speaking I think I did it right since it was my first guess.
@@macieks.5959 No. The control surfaces should only react to movement in gyro or stabilised modes. This is another indication that the Byme is not receiving a PPM signal. I use one of these which I find invaluable but I think no longer available : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ghhp3Ab2e44.html
@@1nformatica yea, with standard build i can't use sbus if I'm not using any fc board which I am not. I need to double check how to make sbus working on tx16s. Funny is, that after powering up (bymea and receiver) it looks lyke gyro mode starts up automatically - not the manual mode. I'd say if my receiver is not sending any data, bymea should start up in manual mode.
@@macieks.5959 I guess operation will be pretty random until it receives the correct signal! Don't think I'll be using any more Bymes after finding this : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rPhf0cLP1hw.html
Еще просмотрел видео! Приемник забинден, режимы гироскоп отрабатывает, но при подключении аккумулятора одиночный писк, звука Мелодии НЕТ!! Может просто не обращать на это внимание? Also watched the video! The receiver is bound, the gyroscope works out the modes, but when the battery is connected, there is a single squeak, there is NO sound Melody !! Maybe just ignore it?😜
I think the motor is not armed. Channel 7 is used to disarm the motor for safety. In this mode there is no output on the throttle channel so the ESC will not arm. Arm the motor on CH7 and all should be OK.
@@1nformatica Доброй Ночи!...)) Да на 7 канале у меня ничего не прописано. Что указать в inpunt and mixes на свиче в два положения Good Night!...)) Yes, nothing is written on the 7th channel. What to specify in inpunt and mixes on a switch in two positions?🤔😒
@@1nformaticaКак сделать выключение мотора при пропадании сигнала передатчика? или выкл RX 16s!! How to turn off the motor when the transmitter signal is lost? or off RX 16s!!7???
@@SOKOL60ARadiolink сохраняет значения отказоустойчивости в обычно неиспользуемых верхних каналах со смещением на 8. Например, если вы дросселируете (двигатель) на канале 3, то значение отказоустойчивости вы устанавливаете в канале 11 (3 +8). Надеюсь, это имеет смысл! Приемники Radiolink делают это автоматически. Radiolink stores the failsafe values in normally unused higher channels offset by 8. For example, if you throttle (motor) is on channel 3 then the failsafe value you set in challel 11 (3 +8). Hope that makes sense! Radiolink receivers do this automatically.
Maybe I am missing something but the R6DS receiver has SBUS so just plug it into the Byme-A using the supplied cable. Swap your servos to the appropriate outputs on the Byme-A and you're good to go. Please consider subscribing if you have not done so already!
@@clausopen6534 My guess is that assuming the Rx is correctly bound to the Tx that the PPM / SBUS setting on the Rx is wrong. On the Rx the LED should be blue / purple (not red) to show it is in SBUS / PPM mode. Connect either PPM or SBUS to the Byme-A, it should automatically sense which it is,. Good luck!
Posted elsewhere but added here for the information of others. (On the Byme-D) Note for anybody coming here looking for information on this stabilizer (for Delta Wings only.) Check manual here... radiolink.com.cn/doce/UploadFile/ProductFile/BymeDManual.pdf Things to note about this stab (and the Byme-A for T-tail planes only.) 1...This will work with any Tx/Rx pair that outputs a minimum of 7 channels on S-bus or PPM (the stab will auto-detect which is presented.) However the channel output order must be A, E, T, R, plus channel 5 assigned to a 3-position Mode Switch and channel 7 assigned to a 2 position Motor Arming Switch. If your Tx/Rx normally outputs a different order (eg T, A, E, R for Spectrum) you must be able to remap the outputs to the required A, E, T, R. 2....If you have to remap the channel order the stick positions for "Level Calibration" will probably be different. The ones in the manual are for the Radiolink Tx/Rx combo. If they don't work for your combo you will have to try holding the 8 possible stick positions for 5seconds or so till you find the correct one. (For Mode 2 Tx left stick down and out or down and in with right stick to 1 of the 4 corner positions.) 3....The item 6 (Transmitter Phase Setup) direction to reverse the throttle on the Tx should only pertain to Radiolink and other Txs (like Futaba) that have this quirk. 4....Unlike the Byme-A this only has 3 mode available (5 on the Byme-A.) They are A...Stabilized (self leveling with Pitch and Roll limits) generally called Angle Mode. B...Gyro (no self leveling, no limits just correction of non-stick commanded course deflections by wind etc) generally called Rate Mode. C...Manual (no stabilizer input at all.) For those going for the Byme-A (for T-tail planes) you should check the video by Quadcopter101 on the Radiolink A560 plane where he shows the correct switch positions for the 5 possible modes. i.ibb.co/s9FMkwd/Radiolink-A560.jpg The ones shown in the Byme-A manual were incorrect ( may have been corrected by the time you read this but check to be sure!) radiolink.com.cn/doce/UploadFile/ProductFile/BymeAManual.pdf
I don't know why I'm wasting my time watching this! I mean it doesn't have great psychedelic visuals and blaring "music" to make it interesting. Also the poster seems not to be able to speak real Cajun Creole which makes it really hard to understand these foreigners! And my Alzheimer's must be getting worse as now I've gone and subbed, dinged and liked. 😜 Cheers to the Old Dart from Oz. 👍😊
G'day cobber! I must sincerely apologise for the appalling shortcomings in my video detailed in your comment. Also I am guilty of the heinous crimes of being in focus most of the time and having lighting that means you can see in glaring detail what I am doing! Please stick around for more of the same!!
