Random Tractor Work: What Its Really Like Restoring An Antique Ford 

JOIN OUR EXCLUSIVE PROJECT SUPPORT GROUP With WEEKLY GROUP CALLS For Coaching On Farm Equipment Repair, Welding & Metal Fabrication! Its An Affordable, And Easy Skill-Building Program With Only A 1 Month Minimum! Learn About The Program Here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LbxxZ4l9LnU.html Join The Project Support Group Here: www.patreon.com/OWFA/membership

I don't find much time to RU-vid anymore, but I'm glad to see you back!

Mr 2009

I'm glad to see a video of yours! Been a while!

Chuck!! Get the old points style distributor. Pay the money one time and buy and MSD 5 or the equivalent. (Its the street version not race.) Changes the points into a set of low voltage contacts and thats that. It works much better than aftermarket electronic conversion distributors

I’ve never had reliability issues with carb or distributors on any engines….. 90% of the issue is running modern ethanol fuel in a carb and then letting it sit….. if you run a carb dry before parking you’ll pretty much never have an issue….. Distributors are just mechanical breakers. All they require is cleaning…. Usually one swipe with some emery cloth or a nail file and your good…. I’ve got a packard 374 v8 that sat for 20 years just cleaned and put a kit in the carb and swiped the points…. It’s runs great…. Had a 52 gmc 302 straight six again cleaned the points and just blew the carb out with an air compressor and that truck started right up after almost 30 years and drove under its own power just fine… My ford 8n I had was a 1947 front mount distributor….. I put a kit in the carb… which it didn’t even need… and that thing ran great…. Never had an issue with the ignition but I went ahead and put a new condenser, cap and rotor and plug wires on it……. Had that tractor for 2 years and never had an issue with It until the starter crapped out. To each their own. But in another 50 years or so all the modern stuff with coil packs and electronic injection and all the other crap… won’t be running or won’t be able to be gotten running…. You can stuff from the 1900s-1980s running with pretty much just a set of spark plug sockets a screw driver and a nail file.

yay new video!

The marvel shebbler carburetor is the easiest to work with I’ve rebuilt mine for the first time when I was 9

Previously known as awsome...I'm glad I found you and your well

I had a similar problem. The steering only turned one way. I took it apart and replaced the bearings. This was on an 801 diesel. I'm glad it's not gas.

The problem is you cannot get quality carburetor or ignition parts anymore.

Love your videos, keep them coming. 👍

Where's the zetor ? , love the content

Be careful installing replacement steering wheel shaft bearings .. they are housed in the flimsiest ball cage you can imagine (bending is almost guaranteed) and alignment installation of the shaft is tricky. I bent up two or three of them before I got the hang of it. From there it's just setting the lash of the gear set to the arms (easy). Most carb problems, after you complete the rework of getting it running from the fence row rescue program, are due to sediment from the tank (inline filter is a good idea) and leaving ethanol-laced fuel in the tractor over time. The ethanol drops out as water and rusts the tanks contributing to the debris that can get to the carb. Last tank fill of a season should be 'real gas' and don't even think about 'conditioners'. There is a last chance filter in most of the carbs right where the fuel line attaches to the carb. RU-vid channel Taryl Fixes All did an eighteen month test on engines and fuels and additives (conclusion: only use real gasoline, super hard to find).

A carburetor is no worse than the operator. Nothing wrong with a carburetor, ask Uncle Tony's Garage.