Obvious there are some old school B&S enthusiasts in the room. Great info. Wheel falling off, starter and rope problems, smokey running, brings back memories of my old Snapper Comet 26 lawnmower. Although my engine was a 8hp vertical. So worn out I had to use starting fluid to get it to start. Had to stop at half a tank of gas to fill with oil again. About once a year the starter clutch would hang up and make the most embarrassing squeal imaginable.
the lifter area wasn't broken, it is a weak area that is welded to keep it from breaking. it is a common practice on briggs 5 hp engines that are professionally built by engine builders. That was a really good eyebrow shave job too! If you end up finding out that the engine still smokes, it could be the valve guides are worn out, or the piston is actually rocking in the bore, even with new rings.
Holy moly! I'm so glad to see one of these on your channel. In my hometown these are my go to, I build these engines on the regular for the dirt ovals my fellow hobbyists run on.
You have a briggs Raptor 3 engine. Can tell by the head having 3 tabs on it for the blower housing. I have a video from a couple years ago of our highly modified Flathead driving on my channel called "Limited Modified Briggs Flathead Go Kart"
@@moparlife4733 uh no sir i have 3 flatheads cranking around 25-40 hp and a 342 briggs cranking 35-40 hp and some clones with 13 hp a flathead with 12 hp and a (data expunged) cranking 110 hp
Glad to see all of the input from people that recognized this engine. I am truly hoping that you two can rebuild and save it so that it may live another day! Looking forward to the entire progress. Great find!!!!
Hey just a quick tip, I think it may have already kinda been mentioned, but it’s a 99% chance that engine is set up for methanol fuel. The jets on the carb are drilled out much larger which is why you can’t get it to idle well. There should also be an offset flywheel timing key to advance the ignition to run on meth. Good luck with the build, love these old flathead monsters!
I got an engine for 100 bucks and it was fully build and also had a Dyno cam in it and it had papers with it with all the cam numbers on it, cool little peice of history!
wow what a trip down memory lane. probably the first engine i worked on by my self and got running 20 plus years ago. the engine that got me into engines.
now this is the stuff we want to see. making something out of nothing from a box of Parts out of a barn. I just love that Isaac is still using the same old torque wrench that he's always had... you guys rock.
This is so awesome. I'm glad you're keeping it old school with the L-head. Giving it a performance engine...👌😍 It's a very good thing that it's driven via propeller shaft instead of a dang chain; proof that you guys care, you two are smart, and I'm grateful. Thanks for the vid!
Holy cow you guys found somthing LOL that cam is a 107SS the 5's are S's the rpm range is 8500rpm 30ish LB of spring pressure 32-34 On ignition timing i can't remember the Lift the cam does but you should be able to find it Via Dyno cam's website or call them or email them and ask for the specs for the 107-SS cam it is a Very mild cam ran it in a few 5hp briggs Normally bore them out .15-30 over for this cam great thing about it was adding a billet Head some times you could get away with out haveing the relieving the head i know on the stock heads you did not have to but when i ran the 107-SS i ran Alky or E85 .
Also it might smoke depending on the oil you guys use i know mine smoked due to extra pressure in the crank case we ran 10w40 Royal Purple normally you would drill and tap the front of the crank case and add a catch can with a breather and redrain the catch can into the front oil drain just watch out for oil flowing into the carb at high RPM.
I would also like to note that rod is a Horstmann H Beam rod i have heard it being stronger than a ARC rod but i can't verify this but can tell you i have not seen one used in a good bit but alot of them where oversized and required the piston to be shaved a bit either way make sure you get the right rings proper oil and fuel and i promise this engine will be super fun shoot i might even dare say throw a mikuni flatslide and a billet head on it as well a billet flywheel.
After watching the video for the 4th time i really need to pay more attention to the videos the welding you seen above the lifter if i am correct it has brass inserts for the lifters and the welding that is done is more like a reinforcement because 5hp briggs where known for cracking right there under high rpm's with a large cam.
@@alfredo42o Well i can't say how they operate/work but i know every engine i get rather it be from ebay-Craigslist i never go by what the previous owner claims it has or had i always crack them open to see what is in them i have gotten lucky and scored a built 5hp from ebay for $50 guy claimed it was on a minibike but also said it was a stock engine he got from a friend in a trade so you win some and you loose some.
The welded area on the block is done to reinforce the tapper bores. A bigger cam and stronger springs are known to blow the case out in that area. So glad to see the revival of the Rat Rod!
I used to race those Briggs engines and they were something. Specially with the raptor kit. Makes me wanna pull the old blocks out and play a bit! Y'all are awesome keep it up! 👍
Permatex Aviation gasket maker!! Best shit for the side cover!! It's all I've ever put between the two halves of a Vw block!!(and many more places!) It's just good shit!! LOL
One of these days I want to make a breather like that one, full over cam, over bore and stroked. Just gotta make sure I do it in a way that my family does not shit themselves when they figure out that I dismantled some power tool here at the farm to do it [HOP HOP HOP!]
@@isaacitllbefine7231 I don't have to say anybunny ENTICED me, I've dreamed of having cool go-karts since childhood! Now I'm OLD, and spent half a century working my ass off, I figure I should be allowed to have one. I have several 8hp blocks to choose from, all I/C [ball bearings on the cranks] and one is a Honda 8hp with OHC so the options are pretty open there. And if that fails me, I can always go out and find a used/junked 22hp-26hp V-twin some place for cheap and power build one of those up...
Get an impact driver, the kind you hammer from Harbor Freight. Cheap and my favorite hand tool. Working on old engines and motorcycles it never disappoints.
Love that your still keepin the briggs after waching this i decided to get my old brigs out wich is built but it sat for 2 years with water in it but suprisingly its still not seized so i think i should give her another chance.
Built bunches of those. I used to think of you guys like 11 yo me, knocking around in the shed. reason i say is it took you guys awhile to figure out kill switches and relieable throttle return springs. now getting back to where i started like 25 years ago, really cool. say my buddys and i would use a steel flywheel key that looked half sheared to advance ignition timing for alcohol. also those old pulse jet carbs are a forgotten art but they can be rebushinged to get them tight again. so between the carb and tank you can use a peace of flat spring steel to raise the fuel level in the bowl. or build an intake adapter and use a motorcycle carb. lastly i think that engine was pretty healthy it just needs to warm up so everything can get tight. oh one more thing those alcohol engines run a light weight lubricant, can remember what we used but its similar to hydarolic oil.
Love it you guys like tinkering with stuff. You're basically recording what you would be doing for fun anyhow. I really enjoyed what you were finding in that old motor that was fun
The welds near the valve guides are there to strengthen the area. Flat head Briggs motors are known for cracking in that area. It was prepped as a race motor. You need to pull the valves, clean them, and lap them to the block. Clean up the carb and slap it back together. That motor will push close to 10 HP.
Great video ike and John! By the way, I fix small engines (mainly Briggs and tecumseh) and I recommend using a wire brush or a dremel with a wire wheel to clean the rust off the flywheel magnets and magneto. It should run a little better and start easier.
DUDE!!! I used to build those Briggs engines. The valve tappets get material added to them so they won't break when you put in a high lift cam! The lobe ramps up so fast, it will break the tappets right out of the block! That is probably a limited mod. cam, or an open class cam. They can turn 8-9000 rpm! I raced an open class cart back in the day. They'd run 70-90 mph depending on gearing! Awesome find! Check out the valve springs. The weight of the spring controls the rpm. If you plan to turn high rpm, get an aluminum flywheel!!!!! I saw one fly apart at the local track...a piece of hit a guy in the head and killed him! Nearly took his head off! No kidding...
The auto closed captioning calls the engine roar, “music.” While I’m pretty sure it’s confusing for those w/ hearing impairments, at the same time, it’s beautifully poetic.
The following video features activities performed in controlled environments by knowledgeable persons. DO NOT attempt to duplicate, re-create, or perform the same or similar activities at home, as personal injury or property damage may result. CARS AND CAMERAS, the persons shown in this video and ANY CONTRIBUTOR, ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY such injury or damage. ALL CARSANDCAMERAS CONTENT IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY.
And yet people still follow your directions. For the stage 2 build, you said 2 grunts for torquing down the rod, so I did the same, and a year in, and 20 hours on it, it works great!
I love how the motor dances is on the table. Ever think about making a portable engine stand? Something you could clamp to the table. It's easier to tune when it's not dancing.
The block wasn't broke and welded it was welded to strengthen up the lifter area because of the high lift cam, if you didn't weld them and beef up that area they would break with the high lift cam
All hail the flathead thanks for another great video guys. Glad to see the rat rod wagon back. Good driving john way to not break anything. Yeah that was a crack at you Ike.
2:16 i'm crying laughing already! Sorry to laugh guy's, but this is why you do it! Keep sticking to the basics of the channel. These kinds of builds is why i keep coming back : )
It was more likely a late 90s early 2000s stock appearing...the lifter bosses were weled for strength as they would usally break there due to higher lift..also its a dyno cam and they still produce cams...by the way im in south carolina have raced karts for 34 years lol...love the channel and hope y'all enjoy the old flathead
10755 = 107.55 Horsepower on the dyno (at the crank, naturally). The Rat Rod Wagon would look even better if you could find a little spun aluminum fuel tank to put on top of the front axle!
I have seen several modified briggs flatheads with tig welded reinforcements near the lifter bores. In fact, if you go to DynoCams website and find their flathead cams, you'll notice almost every cam description recommends reinforcing in that area. On the Briggs Raptor III (not sure about the earlier ones) the block is much beefier and thicker in that area (between fins and crankcase it is noticibly reinforced from factory. I think the engine you have is actually a Raptor block
Gotta love these old B&S motors. Back when I was tinkerin’ around, EVERYTHING had either a Briggs or a Tecumseh motor on it. “Honda WHO?” 😝 As in, “Who would trust a JAPANESE motor?” lol Boy have times changed... 😏
emanuel diggs Yes, indeed...Harbor Freight Pedators. But I was referring to back in the ‘70s and ‘80s, when I was a young kid working on small engines. Honda single-cylinder engines were about as common and reliable as Liberal honesty and integrity. 😏
I have been watching for years this is the video that got me hooked. Today I finally subscribing. I challenge you to build another rat rode wagon. Then race them. Maybe do a 3 way build off. 3 rat rod wagons would be wild.
My pap used to race go-karts running alcohol, and it was very popular to rotate the cam, and even custom grind them (this was back in the mid to late 60s). It may be a home built custom grind cam.
You guys should convert one of the older Briggs opposed twins to horizontal shaft and use that on a cart. Someone else did that on YT and it was awesome.
That's like our old racing engines. Chain guard on the timing cover and it looked like our racing oil (Thor oils I believe). 5 hp Briggs made 13.6 hp. Bullet Racing Engines in Knoxville TN built them. I would also bet that is a Dyno Racing cam. Also, that carb could be jetted and worked to run methanol.
You guys should have pulled the flywheel off the Briggs to see if it had an advanced keyway in it you can get them in 2 degree increments.competition cams used to make them for Briggs racing aftermarket parts,I don't know if they still make them or if there's any NOS stock available. 👍
