Thank you brotha I think this may fix my problem I have a 2007 GTI I have oil in my hot and cold side of my front mount Intercooler do you think this is a symptom of a bad rear PCV valve? I have a catch can system running stage two with stock injectors in stock fuel pumps
Check your diverter valve, if it is torn and not sealing properly, then oil leaks from the seals in the Center Housing Rotating Assembly to the cold side of the turbo to quickly get into the intercooler. Also leaking valve stem seals allow oil to leak into the cold side of the turbocharger via the PCV system, to make it's way into the intercooler. Can you get your engine pressure tested?
The check valve in the rear pcv is apparently removed to stop the "putting" sound when the engine speed drops to idle. Something you only notice with an aftermarket intake. Was this causing any symptoms that made you replace it?
I replaced it as I was concerned that the PCV system wasn't working properly a few years ago when I removed the dipstick with the engine running. I searched for the latest revision with the check valve. I only hear the "putting" sound at idle, but I don't mind it. I replaced both front and rear as routine maintenance. I had replaced the front ones previously, but later did a front-delete due to concerns of the oil vapors coating the intake valves. I'll be reverting to the stock one shortly for the front one
@@MatthewTaylor3 Ok cheers! With the putting sound, for me it's just a single pop, basically just as the needle gets to idle (or a moment before). Is this the same that you notice, and did this only happen after putting in the new PCV with check valve?
I know you mention all the parts in your video, but it would be convenient for viewers if u also listed it in the video details...even moreso if there is a link to go with each part. Cheers.
Good idea, I'll do that. I originally didn't want to post part numbers and links as newer revisions are released by the Volkswagen Automotive Group at random intervals. My links and part numbers would then be outdated.
Good point. But i think its still nice to see. I want to believe that Most of us using these videos as reference points or just for info would know to check if there are revisions or versions that suit our needs best. And of course it actually makes it easier to find the part we need on amazon, ebay, etc, when we have a part number listed. Either way, this video and your efforts are appreciated. Bless.
Your valve stem seals could also be faulty, but replacing this requires removal of the head to get the valves out to replace the 16 seals. If your front PCV is not working or deleted then your engine will NOT change its idle when one removes the dipstick from a running engine. When the rear one fails, then under boost the tappet cover gasket leaks and excessive exhaust smoke occurs when moving off at traffic lights after idling for a few seconds (especially with an upgraded fuel pump and injectors).
@@MatthewTaylor3Thanks a lot for this advice! Mine defo smokes only for idling and stop start traffic. The boost is fine and I’ve had a compression test to make sure the cylinders are all good. There’s also no blue smoke on start up so I don’t think it’s the stem seals. Hopefully going to change the rear pcv to see if that makes a difference
Hey man I’m curious to know, did you have any oil on the floor pan, or in any of the Intercooler piping/charge pipe? My rear PCD is covered in oil as well as my charge pipe coming from the throttle body
Yes, I had that issue with oil accumulation in the intercooler piping. This is usually caused by a torn diverter valve, or a valve that isn't properly sealing. I now use the GFB DV+ divrter valve to fix that issue. A damaged front or rear PCV system will cause this too.
@@MatthewTaylor3 thanks man! I took off all the boost pipes to clean everything and then I noticed the rubber hose on the rear pcv has a tear where the clamp sits so I’m sure it contributed to the oil leak
Hey man, really late to this video. I have an MK6 Golf R and having lean mixture causing my ECU to compensate with more fuel. Everywhere I look they keep saying vacuum leak. Could this cause unmetered air to flow in at idle? I did check and it is leaking oil.
Un-metered air would just be anything past your MAF sensor. On a serious note though. How sure are you that your primary oxygen sensor is working correctly? Do you have any form of PCV delete? A stock engine (idling) SHOULD sputter the moment you pull up on the dipstick. If it doesn't sputter, then you have a vacuum leak, and the FRONT PCV would be the first suspect. During deceleration, do you get about 14-22 inches of mercury for vacuum? I ask these questions as you need these things before you can even begin looking at a rich or lean mixture. If your ECU is stock, then vacuum leaks cause AFR issue. The purpose of this video was the importance of the check valve as turbo upgrades put strain on the factory PCV system causing the diaphragm to keep tearing (hence the revised version with the check valve).
The MAF housing is the "42 Draft Designs" model. It is made of aluminium, and designed to replicate the OEM one in the factory airbox. This allows you to keep the MAF scaling correct for your tunes. The one issue with this is that it suffers from heat soak at low RPM when air velocity is low. I like it however.
