You can also remove the retainer without bending it, since there is a washer on the long bolt i just took two fingers and pulled down on the bolt and continued loosening and it cam out without having to hit or bent anything
You don’t actually need to remove that bolt with the retainer. Once you take out the other bolt and loosen the retainer one, you can hit the front of the hook with a rubber mallet to pop it back from the grommet. That’s how I removed and painted mine.
dang i just asked about this haha thanks that's what i was wondering while watching. i'm assuming that's why that left that gap in front of the isolator. is it hard to reinstall? just a hard yank forward on the tow hook to set the isolator?
@@snowboarderx8 essentially just a yank is correct lol. once you place it back, grab from the front and give a quick tug and it will seat itself back in the grommet, then tighten it all back down. both ways are pretty simple, I just didn't want to bend the retaining clip and remove.
Where did you get the aftermarket bumper does the same company provide rear tow hooks as well? What material is the front tow hooks made from? It looks like it’s a casting.
@@WaterFowler41 Serious question.... is it okay to just use ONE of these hooks to pull your vehicle or have you pull out another stuck vehicle, of course ideally using a lanyard strap (double hook) would work best....but assuming a person has one strap ....would it damage frame connecting / pulling out from ONE hook? Thanks.
it's funny that chevy got a lot of crap for going w/ red tow hooks (even though jeep did it before them!), but now people want to do it on other vehicles... i think it looks fine either way, but do wonder how the plastidip would hold up during real use (i'd think it'd rub off during recovery) -- haha and you covered that. :-)
in regards to the long bolt with the retaining washer, is it possible to loosen the bolt and push the tow hook towards the rear of the truck? basically can the bolt and isolator slide through the gap in the tow hook so you can leave that long bolt installed? thanks man!
The rear attach point, the rubber isolator doesn’t look captive. Can’t you just remove the forward bolt and loosen the long bolt at the isolator, push the tow hook aft and let it squeeze by the isolator? Then you wouldn’t have to knock the long bolt out. I don’t know, maybe I’m seeing wrong, maybe it’s too tight.
I’ve seen guys use a rubber mallet to knock the tow hooks back which pops them off the isolator. For me it was easier to just remove the bolts. Takes a few minutes and you’re good to go. Both ways would work
I haven’t had any issues with leaving it out. You can always reinstall just the bolt while the hooks are removed if your concerned about something loosening up
Yellow would be very nice. Red is so common now... And I have red on my Silverado. Same color as yours, white/black. It is the redline edition... You RAM would look very cool with the yellow. It is just enough to get attention... The right attention
Yup, I tried finding yellow at a few stores but nothing in stock. I’m going to see how durable this stuff is to road debris. If it can hold old well, I may buy a can of yellow online.
I have a craftsman digital torque wrench that works great. www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/wrenches/2001193?store=16856&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0emHBhC1ARIsAL1QGNdT8uz6aSlqtwD1LTu6oIvabKcLkAVzMBXB48guac-EStSIoMOpRvsaAtCkEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I don't understand why you taped it up. You said yourself no one can see beyond the tip so no point in wasting paint -so why waste tape and worry about overspray???
It’s peelable paint which is much easier to peel when there’s a thick coating. Overspray is a pain in the butt to get off so I taped the hooks so I didn’t have to worry about that down the road.
