Cool video. Using a hammer tool is one of the worst things to use on injectors like these. On my E Class CDI, they suffer from "black death" where the injector seals leak and the diesel solidifies around the holes making it seemingly impossible to remove. The key is to chip away all the black stuff first and then for me, I used carb cleaner (be careful on hot engines) to "dissolve" the black carbon. I added 50:50 ATF/acetone mix also and poured around the injectors for a few days before the job. Get the engine as hot as possible before pulling the injector out, the carbon is like a tar that turns into treacle when hot. Unfortunately, I let my car cool down too much and my injector still was stuck. I had no choice but to put the hold down clamp and bolt in and reattach fuel line. I left the clamp slightly (and I mean "slightly" loose) and started the car. The pressure pushed the injector loose - be really careful on this one as it can turn your injector into a missile. I then used twisting method shown together with carb cleaner and the injector came right out with minimal force and therefore no damage. Gently sand the injector seat and install new copper seal ring and re-install with all new hardware. I also recommend capping or taping off the tops of the injector feeds/lines to prevent crap getting in there. Any dirt will kill them
Yes, Ian! Spent well over an hour trying to take out #3 injector on a 206cc 1.6 hdi. This method definitely works! Soaked the well with wd40 twice and left it overnight. It took me 5 minutes to easily get the bugger out the morning after. Patience and a bit of wellie is all it needs. Great little video pal.
I had a stuck injector been there for days thourt the only way was a pulley but seen this video tryed it and worked straight away with out damaging anything else thanks for a good tip / video
Hi from Whitestone city Oamaru, New Zealand. Hey thanks for showing your struggle. I have a massive problem with my heap of a jeep wrangler 2.8 c.r.d #4 firewall injector which refused to even move using my custom made 7.50kg slide hammer. Anyway I will use P.b blaster or Kroil penetrating oil which is recognized as the ducks nuts in oil. O.k tip for you. Pull out injectors every 40.000 km and change the copper seating washer and put nickle or copper anti seize around injector body. This advice is from jeeps engine maker but not given to public or disclosed. I found this out by a huge amount of digging... Carl
Best products to use according to a ~2015 research study I saw: Heat is best; Liquid Wrench is the best penetrating oil; then some others, maybe Kroil, I forget, WD is ok for the correct application, not a top tier penetrating oil though.
Just had the same problem with me wife's ford fiesta great vid help me out now for the clean up joy just hope it starts up again after replacing all the seals and washers .
Nice video. I took off the front rocker cover and tried using a slender channel lock. I put everything back together because I was afraid of doing damage to something. But your WD40 gave me an idea. I used a mini steam cleaner to remove a wheel from an old riding lawn mower. It came off by hand in about 5 minutes. I guess I'll try again tomorrow. I have a RDV on Friday at Ford which is going to cost me 300€. It was done about 2 years ago....
My method.... Drive car until upto temp. Crack the injector retaining bolts a few turns each. Turn engine over, I started it for a seconds and off again and check the injectors are rising up against the clamp bodies. A few more turns out on the retainer bolts and again until I was happy they were moving. Mine was an e46 330d I could pry a flat head between injector body and inlet to get them to pop them out.
Works well if engine runs as injected fuel starts to come past injector body due to misfire & cleans debris. This is a bit of a dangerous method so just keep your wits about you. Don't want any injectors flying out etc (keep well out of the firing line)!!! crazy pressures involved here that will seriously injure.
Thanks guys ill try that .when i do come to take injectors out .have i got to release anything to depressurize the system .or can i just start taking everything out without any worries
Great job , thanks for sharing your video, definitely save a lot of money on labour costs and it’s great to be able to do things yourself, knowledge is power . 👍
its a good tip for easy injectors. I've tried using a wrench and breaker bar attached, no movement at all. Also tried a slide hammer with no luck. Had to use a hydraulic puller and that still bent the 1/2" steel plate on my puller. I almost lost all hope, My injectors were very stuck. Had to use a thicker plate and they just barely came out. When it finally broke loose, it was a loud bang and was still tight all the way through. the injectors came out all intact and in working order. They were never removed for 220,000 miles.
Jose Peixoto If the carbon swells due to WD40 It will come out easier, because the carbon seal is broken due to the swelling to that somewhere. Therefore it is softer and more pliable. Therefore the injector is ready to pop out after a little too and fro rocking movement with an adapted tube spanner screwed on the inlet pipe connection. Try it.
@@Lordosvk please don't do it with injectors removed. lol . I did say do it "prior" to the job. I try to look out for the dumb ones, considering sometimes is me, too lol
I used carburettor cleaner. It is more "aggressive" in breaking down the carbonised gunk. I also experienced to screw off the tip of the injector which stayed in the head. Happy days.
I just did this, with a slide hammer hose-clamped to the injector and help from another with a long rolling head pry bar applying strong upward force on the injector while slide-hammering it. I'm commenting this because no amount in "penetrating" oil in the universe would help in a case like mine and many others, "penetrating" oils are at the very best ridiculously overrated
Had to remove a Citroen C4 engine with piloted gearbox to do clutch, timing belt, timing chain, etc. So, engine is dry, no diesel leaks or such. I soaked the injectors for two weeks on & off (been busy with other things) but STILL these will NOT come out!! No 1, 2 & 3 are turning, but cant get near 4 due to the proximity of the cam chain... I tried every which way, but they still refuse to move. Bought a Sealy slide hammer tool just for removing these type of injectors. However, the "hammer" part is very wide and unwieldy, so I swapped it for a friends one.... STILL stuck!!!! So I drilled a bit of box section, put chains & shackles and attached the lot to the engine crane. Suffice to say, the engine is currently hanging from injector No1 (remember the French count the cylinder nearest the flywheel as number one) and I have a massive blister (despite using welding gloves for protection) and am sitting here in pain, munching mini chedders and watching RU-vid video's on ways to get this bast@rd out :-) I have been fixing for years. I have every tool you can think of, I have a serious mig welder, I have a hydraulic spring compressor, hydraulic wheel skates for moving cars in the shop, pillar drill, several bench grinders, electric ratchets, air tools, etc, etc. I have pulled engines from turbo charged cars, V8's, V6 4 pot, 3 pot and 2 pot. I have rebuilt crashed and smashed cars... But THIS has got me gritting my teeth and digging in! I will NOT give up. I think it's time for hydraulics.... Which absolute teapot thought it would be a great idea to insert steel injectors into an aluminium head that gets very hot and not consider the removal of aforementioned injectors??? I'd love to introduce him to my left boot at a significant velocity.
A year late i know but I find myself in a similar situation, drinking coffee and just staring at the carnage i have created- i will not let this car beat me, even if it never sees the road again. Now considering removing head and wondering if i can press it out from underneath with my hydraulic press.
For those like me that it has not worked,I will tell you a bit more,If they are well stuck then when you turn the injector with the spanner and it seems to loosen up and moves side to side a little but when you turn it clockwise it is tight again then all you are doing is unscrewing it from half way down but you wont be able to turn it a full 360 as it will hit the studs [well the top of them with the torque bit] so now your stuffed better to tighten them up but don't force them round clockwise as you will damage them,if your taking the injectors out to get the head off you still have a chance,,,,you can cut a small part of the studs off,just the torque bit might be enough with an angle grinder or whatever then you can unscrew the injectors well the top half but them you can get the head off but you cant put the injectors back together yet ,,you have to take the bits our put them safe and then you can screw the injectors back together and refit the inners after you get the injectors out,but you can now take the head to a specialist firm or whatever.you can get the studs out with two nuts tightened together [thought I would mentioned that before someone else does] so once the injector tops are off you can get the studs out so you can get the head off,be careful very expensive engine and heads are hard to get,I you doing this job to do the head gasket that could be why they wont come out.
191246mann1 Thanks for your comment. You will see from the video that the injector studs are removed, otherwise you can only get very restricted movement and much less likely to work. I will produce another video to assist in the removal of awkward injector studs without shearing them.
@@iainmc2280 you can't get the studs out with the injectors in that is why I had to cut a bit of them off so you can get a 360 turn on the injectors,my problem is now it's done I will have to screw the injectors back in and pull them out and I am thinking they might just pull out of the threads .now that would be a problem.
Did this on a Vectra recently and took over 45mins to get the bugger out and had to reseat it after a major clean down from the leaking injector been careful not to get any crap in the chamber. All this in the pouring down rain with just a cover over the bonnet to try keep us dry. The things we do for our cars hey? 🤔🤔
I use an old tent groundsheet, with taut bungees to secure it as a waterproof shelter when working in the rain. It’s that good I use 240v lighting beneath so I could have great visibility.
yojo mojo I thought about that too. But the cheap gazebos are cxxp, and the expensive ones are too good, and deserve to be next to the BBQ.If I had money to burn I’d get a good one. LED lights are the way ahead though.
Best products to use according to a ~2015 research study I saw: Heat is best; Liquid Wrench is the best penetrating oil; then some others, maybe Kroil, I forget, WD is ok for the correct application, not a top tier penetrating oil though.
The 1.6 hdi injectors never really cause a lot of trouble, you wanna try your spanner technique on a 2.0 Renault Traffic till you experience a stuck injector, seen them breaking the complete piece outta the head with 30 ton of pressure before it would release.. be a simple job if your Wd40 could replace a 2 grand hydraulic puller set....!!
you got it mate this guy moved it twice and it came out ha not got a clue a traffic 2.0dci or old 16valve 2.0 hdi then come put your daft video on line you got it right db
@@andrewhill7355 I have done it on a traffic 2.0 and it worked and it was well stuck.. 4 days of pen oil 1 hour worth of work and it popped out.. So it does work
warm engine fluid and twisting with haner then with hands worked ! i practicaly tooked it out by hands, at start it wasnt moving at all ; 2005 w211, 2.2cdi another thing now bothers me how to properly clean that deep hole, :\
B. Saulius To clean the deep hole. Use a hand vacuum pump, the type for removing engine oil. Use the thin tube and pump this hard and create a good vacuum. This will suck a lot of loose dirt and fluids very nicely for you.
Many praise WD40, carb cleaner and a vast etc. My praise go strait to oven cleaner. Nothing better to break down oily/carbon stuff. The latest my wife got in some supermarket. Green liquid stuff on a spray bottle. Reveal itself even better than the traditional spray cans of oven cleaner in foam form! Now to close this I've got some injectors, intake manifold, etc. waiting for some carbon removal... ;-) Cheers
There shouldn’t be much, if any, fall down the hole if you are being careful. If a small amount gets into the combustion chamber it would most likely be thrown out with the exhaust.
Martin, That is kind of hard to say. I guess you would have more room to work with on some engines but, and in the case of this Hdi engine I have used in the example, it's simply not possible because the injector mounting studs must be removed to get the cover off before you even get to the head bolts. And you can't get the studs off without removing the injector.
Iain MC mine are badly seized. I spoke to a mechanic yesterday briefly and he recommended an acetylene torch. I been thinking and researching so much about it that I'll have to make video with my results. Thanks for reply .
Martin, yes I'd be interested in how you got on. I've used heat from a hot air gun to remove studs but when you have a proper stuck injector you would need the heat from acetylene I'd say. You need to expand the cyl head with heat. I would be careful not to put too much heat in, you don't want to melt the head, just expand it. You could also try using carburettor cleaner if WD40 isn't working.Good luck.
They could be cleaned with an acetone bath and wire brush if you want to try that. It is likely that it’s a carbon buildup at the nozzle. But the honest answer is if that doesn’t work just replace it. You can take it to a repair specialist but for what it’s worth I’d just replace it. The problem is these parts work with minute tolerances, and even one grain of dirt is enough to damage them. They may also be worn parts. I wouldn’t bother stripping it down either because there may be very small shims that could fall out and render it useless. You would need exceptional good eyesight to even work on these. Second hand reconditioned injectors could be better value on the major auction sites.
There’s a good chance it’s the injectors. I would remove them and compression test the engine first. Good compression would rule out other engine faults like broken valve springs, worn piston rings, etc. Injectors may be dirty or worn, so with good compressions that’s what I’d change next.
I've seen just about every way of removing those bloody injectors. Nobody mentions how to clean the port without all this crap falling inside. Any good ideas?
What I did was I used one of these oil changer hand pumped vacuum pumps. You insert the thin tube that you would have put down the dipstick if you were removing oil, but instead put that down the port. I would then pump the handle and the vacuum created would suck all the oil, dirt and grime into the tube. It effectively works like a vacuum cleaner with a very thin tube. It is very effective.
@@iainmc2280 Great idea. Some sort of a container with two tubes entering from the top. I'll connect one to a vacuum instead of a pump, for better effect and use the other to suck all dirt into the container. Thanks :)
My trick was fill it with carb cleaner, let it soak up all the carbon and bullshit, and then turn the engine over and blow the shit straight out from the compression
@@iainmc2280 cheers. I made a plate and nuts and bolts the used a 19 mm spanner to hold the sleave then hit the injector with a socket to protect the nozzle. It was two man job though.
I’m sure sometimes your going to get the odd one that’s an utter b1tch to deal with. I’d be interest to know what worked in those cases. My suggestions are worth a try but there will always be one out there that just won’t yield.
Iain MC, you're right, you get odd ones that are glued on but I'm talking in general they're not hard to pull up. Anyway you have done a great job doing it in details and sharing it on here.
Try a VW caddy I have one in work now that injector 4 has a small chain around it attached to my engine hoist and front wheels are just off the ground the injector is that seized. When I go back in the morning if it hasn’t moved unfortunately the heads coming off and will try my hydraulic press at 20ton and I’ve had that stall out before. VWs are prone to this issue and if you think those are stuck my friend you have no clue
bhvm333 Normally the copper washer is stuck into the injector. In the case it is stuck in the bottom you can try these things. 1. Put the injector back in partially and move side to side to make the washer loose enough. It may be stuck to some carbon. 2. Put the injector back in all the way, twist, and the washer may stick better to the injector when pulling out. 3. Use the tube of a vacuum pump, the type that you use to extract engine oil. Put the tube to the bottom and pump the handle of the pump to creat a vacuum. This will suck onto the washer and you can lift it out. 4. If these fail then try putting heat into the area and try expanding the copper. Then try picking it out with bent copper rod or similar. Try these ideas first.
@@iainmc2280 Thanks for the Inputs Ian. I have currently soaked the washer in WD40 and will let it settle overnight. The injector was quite stuck and I used the rocking motion as shown in video very carefully for a good 15 mins. If that did'nt loosen the washer, I don't think putting injectors again will. Lets hope for wd40. Or I will try a bent Copper wire again. I also tried a bent steel wire before and it latched to something below the washer (Looks like there is a lip or ring there) and got stuck. Had to craftily pull it out so a bit scared. Certainly there is lot of carbon as I am fixing a compression leak (Leak is pretty new. Maybe 15 mins runtime). On These TATA-Delphi-AVL Engines, Washer sits very loosely on injector and falls down just by tipping to gravity.
Also, Ian, What would be a good way to let the engine turn over without actually firing? Because I want to Bleed the diesel lines and let all the diesel reach the injectors and return line before connecting the injector electrically. Earlier we did this by electrically disconnecting all 4 injector plugs. But this time I am working on only 1 injector.
If you are extremely careful with high pressure fuel and pipes, and work safely, I can’t see any problem with turning the engine over for a short time. It may leak some fuel at low pressure. I can’t stress enough the safety because spray from the injectors will pierce skin and can be lethal. If there’s no injector attached to the pipe then it will be fairly low pressure spillage. Might be worth a go. The washer may fly out anywhere though. Be careful and stay safe.
Not that hard to do, would have been better to plug all holes up to stop foreign bodies from dropping into inlet ports , hopefully no damage to casings causing oil leakage from levering on the engine with a crowbar
Ben Harris. Every now and then there will always be a bitch one to get out. You have to turn to heat and other methods. Or of course splash out on the expensive tools. Persevere first though, because it works more than it doesn’t. Hope that helps.
