Great content George ! Thank you for taking us along ! Be safe my friend and God bless you and your family !!! Happy and Blessed Thanksgiving I pray for you and your family !!!!!! Eddy
Great video on governor removal. Without the governor the motor will rev higher and you could get some fun out of it. However you also run the risk of blowing the connecting rod straight through the block. Yep that is how it goes.
@@TheShadeTreeFixitMan I wouldn't take it over 3,600 RPM. The connecting rod is the "weak" link on this engine and they frequently break the block when they fail. It is all just pieces, just like anything else, but those are expensive pieces.
Question - When I take the cover out like this if the oil seal is stuck do I risk damaging the connecting rod, bearing or crankshaft journal? I'd also like to not pull the flywheel if possible - I don't have the tool but I'll buy it if I have to.. I don't want to damage the connecting rod or mis-time the cam. I've done B&S never Tecumseh. I'm working on a generator which requires very precise governor adjustment - between 3600 and 3750 in the US to get 60-62.5Hz I'm curious as to why you wish to remove the governor. I'm looking this up because I have a generator I got for free (for running up to 75hz at 300v - probably blew something up). I need to fix the governor. The manual says overspeeding also causes severe engine damage. I'm sure you know what you're doing - have another kind of governor keep the runaway - speed from seizing up your engine.
You don't have to remove the flywheel if you don't want to. I removed the governor so that I could get more rpms out of the engine for speed purposes, since this is essentially going on a go cart. If you do want to remove the flywheel you don't need a special tool. With the help of an assistant who holds a prybar behind the lip on the flywheel, just a rap on the end of the crankshaft should pop it loose. You can't mess things up inside unless you take them out and don't replace them properly. There are timing marks on both the camshaft gear and the crankshaft to make sure they are properly timed when re-assembling. Have fun! Thanks for stopping by.
Here is the Goofy Cart in action: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zbZt7xVkEGA.html and here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NO5hu6xMJXg.html
I suppose you can just do that, but I would be a little concerned about pieces coming apart inside when the revs get higher than they were designed for. Thanks for stopping by.
Great video. Not sure if you still check these threads but trying to see what motor this is. Bought a mini bike with a Tecumseh motor but have no clue the model for ordering parts and such. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for stopping by. This motor is essentially an 8-10hp Tecumseh that came off of a snowblower. Does your motor have the identifying sticker or plate on it? If you know the hp rating or the cu inches or centimeters, many of the parts are interchangeable on these venerable old engines. You'll need to find some kind of identifying numbers or have an idea what the size is. My guess would be a 5hp engine.
george I have a eight horse tecumseh motor and it wants to speed up and slow down do you think this could be the govener causing my problem its a 1972 motor thanks I have cleaned the carburator
Snow Blower but I don't remember what model of snow blower it came from. All the Tecumseh engines are pretty much alike so it should be the same on your engine. Thanks for taking a look.
It isn't any harder to start at all, but if you over rev it you can blow the motor apart. I don't expect that to happen with this setup. Thanks for stopping by Shark
