Removing Window From C4 Corvette 

That is a lot of money. I am very cheap, something has to be super hard before I won't give it a try. I have a Jaguar in pieces in my garage now... I know nothing about Jaguar's. I hope I can revive it.

There is a diagram at Wilcox Corvette that shows a breakdown of the door. That was the one shot that the 2nd camera didn't work on but there are two bolts that hold it into place. Worst case scenario is take the cover over your other door and look at the position on it. Here is a link to that breakdown diagram repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1984-1996-corvette-door-window-glass-adjustment/

Once you get the panel off you can see if there is something stopping it from coming down. You may want to put power directly to the motor to make sure it isn't a switch or something electrical. The 95 will be a little different than the 89 I did. Your window stop will be on a guide rod, which you may have to remove, just two 10mm bolts holding it. The stop has the same weird washer/nut that the 89 has. Make sure you mark your brushes before you loosen them so you can put them back to the same place.

@@C3Stingray what about a 1986 C4. Should I sell it as is or try to fix it myself. It has 25,000 miles. Locking mechanism does not work. Husband just passed so I am I. A quandary.

@@C3Stingray When you say mark your "brushes", do you mean the felt pads that touch the glass? I had something sitting on top of the center shifter plate while I drove into town and back. And I think it must have been pressing the switch and burned something out as after, then window would kind of roll down, but wouldn't roll back up. And now it's all the way down. I'll swap the window switches out to make sure it's not the switch. But I'm betting it's the regulator motor as if that item on top of the switch was pressing the switch, then the 30 minute drive, it was constantly activated. Years ago, when I adjusted the glass. I got a black permanent marker and ran it along the bottom of the glass where it touches the regulator parts so I could have a baseline guide. I'll have to make sure that's still there in case I have to pull the glass then regulator to replace the motor so hopefully the glass will go back in exactly and I won't have to spend a week readjusting the glass.

@@colt5189 Yes I was referring to those felt pads that slide in and out. If your window rolled up and down without issue it is best to mark where those pads are so you can get it back tot he same spot. I would think the motor would have a stop that would shut it off when you rolled the window up or down, it wouldn't just keep trying to attempt to roll down once it hit that stop, unless there are some issues. I've never been in a car where I press the button to roll it up or down and it continue to operate once it got in position. Your motor may have just happened to go out or your switch went out. Hopefully it was the switch, that would be the cheapest.

@@C3Stingray Well, I pulled the switch and the bottom of the switch had melted some. So it was the switch. Bad thing is I replaced those switches like a year ago with expensive NOS switches as I had put in those aftermarket Dorman switches. And I kept having a problem where the knob kept coming loose and the only way to fix it was to remove the panels and reseat the knob. I had thought of super gluing the knob to the paddle on the switch, but ended up just getting NOS switches instead. I know when I hold the switch down, that I can hear the motor still working even though the window has stopped. Now I don't know if there is a timer where it will automatically cut power to the motor after like 5 seconds as I haven't ever had a reason to try something like that. I do know the headlight motors on mine has a cutoff. So if your bushings are bad and the motor keeps turning after reaching the stop, the power will get cut to the motor after like 5 seconds.

Some people don't like to so I wanted to show the alternative.