Renault 5 GT Turbo Restoration part 3. How to spray underneath a car, Tips, Tricks 

Something I should have mentioned is that when you measure the paint viscosity it means you can have the correct flow rate for that particular day. I record what flow rate I used and what temperature the day was, this means that in winter or summer the results are the same. I have to add more thinner in the winter when temperatures are low and go above the recommended thinner stated in the data sheet, but usually keep to the recommended viscosity range. If your spray booth recirculates the air and can maintain a sensible temperature then this won't apply. If the paint is too thick you will have orange peel and paint runs at the same time and no matter how good a sprayer you are there's nothing you can do to avoid that. I have met several professional sprayers who don't measure the viscosity, perhaps they can do it by judgement alone but I bet they will have an off day now and then. Spraying is hard enough without the paint working against you.

If Richard Attenborough narrated car restorations…this is what it would sound like. 😆😆 This is great stuff!! I’m restoring my 1967 MGB GT Mk1. This video will be invaluable!! Thank you!

Brilliant. Yours is in way better condition than mine. I had to put new floors new sills Omer and outer. New boot floor new rear chassis mounts.. that was 5yr ago it’s still on the spit in the garage now.. will return to it one day. It’s ready for building but fell out of love for it.. perhaps this will give me some inspiration

Have my one 11years now and never drive it makes me want to get ot back out there Nice job mate

Your expertise and detailed approach never ceases to impress me !! :) I would love to able to go to these lengths with my Jazz but pulling my car apart to this degree is totally unrealistic. However getting a couple of jacks, pulling off two wheels at a time and doing one end of the car at a time I should be able to get the worst of it and do a halfway reasonable job with a wire brush, some rust converter (& Primer ?) then under seal.

Awesome work. Amazing prep and calculation resulting in a better than factory result 😎👌

BRILLIANT INTRO!! Another great and interesting video Ben! 👍👌

Thanks Ben!

I wondered what the light brown tinge was after applying the hydrate 80 sometimes on clean steel. Now i know, thank you and well done for another excellent informative video. Keep up the good work. Mondeo man.😊

Epic job if u ask me looks spot on

Nice job that Ben, you've got to have a bit of flow here and there I think....it shows you are trying !

I can tell your a man of detail! but i can't understand why you would use a water based latex paint followed by a porous etch primer. IMHO the best method for long lasting corrosion protection(which classic car restoration is all about) is to brush on a couple of coats of marine grade epoxy primer, followed by anti stone chip paint, followed by a 2k topcoat or if you want to go a step further, topcoat with a flexible polyurethane (marine) topcoat.

In need of your services Ben

Im not sure about the "rust converter" it seems to me to be water based pva which i would never paint over, it certainly goes hard in the pot so im torn with it. I certainly wish i wasnt. Very informative and helpful vid, thank you.

Y didn't you use a better product on your floor pan🤔 epoxy 👍 primer

I would have use POR15 products.