Everyone has their own way... ultimately, it is about the final results. There are easily four other ways to break the bead with the same tools used, that don't involve having to turn the car on or put the spare tire on.. Very entertaining to watch though, which earned a thumb up from me! Kudos for completing the mission!
This is a really inventive trick! Just a couple safety tips from someone who used to bust tires; when airing it back up and the bead has not "seated" yet, (where the tire pops back into place) you want to put some soapy water on the lip of the tire so it slides easily back up on the rim. Then once it pops back into place, take the air off and let the air run out to give the tire a chance to adjust back into place before you air it all the way back up. -Also, never air up a tire that has run flat or near-flat!!! Even if it only ran a block. the stress can weaken or break the threads in the sidewall and if you air it up the tire can violently explode. If you've run it flat or near flat, don't take the chance. Take it in to a tire shop so they can look at it from the inside.
Get your wheel, lay it down, spray soapy water around the bead, then stand on it with your feet equally on either side, wear strong boots. Rock your weight from either side while bending alternate knees, keep doing this as your feet move around the whole tyre, round and round. I assure you this works every time, its just that you may think its not moving the tyre downwards, but inch by inch it surely is, you just have to keep doing it until the tyre backs off. This has never failed me, but you need to be patient. I've even done it with a truck tyre. Get two people to do the same on the tyre together if your are not a heavy person.
. I did the same thing, with the boards and all. I just wanted to see if it was plausible to pull the stem through without buying the special tool. Now I see it is. Thanks. What I think was even harder was trying to get a sport bike tire off the bead. I just drove up on the side of it with my car tire, no boards or anything. That did the job. When I changed a timing belt people were taking about putting bolts and chains on the crank pulley to hold it in place so they could torque it back down. I just used the old serpentine belt feeding it around the strong alternator bolt, twisted tight with a breaker bar. Used the old timing belt to stabilize the cam cog wheel the same way (so I could replace the seal). Using the channel-locks at first was a prudent idea. As a kid I remember removing a tire with like 5 screw drivers. Put a different tire on. Balancing - What's that? I like working on my own car because it's hard to find the same level of caring in the average mechanic. Watched a video on the timing belt issue. The mechanic is like, "This is not a job you want to attempt on your own." New water pump, new crank/cam seals, + T belt, easy as fk.I think what I might fear more is replacing the ripcord in a lawnmower. When you take that last screw off and a spring goes "boing" across the room you know you're in for some aggravation.
Seems like the mechanic had a vested interested in you not doing that on your own, then again maybe he just underestimated your capabilities :-) I've replaced a rip cord on a mower a couple of times, and it's not that bad, at least not on my old Sears/Briggs. If it's already broken, may as well take a crack at fixing it!
I have an aluminum rim. I would not want to damage it your way. I built a bead breaker with left over material lumber. 2x4x4 (base), 4x4x2.5 (post), 5x3.5" screws. Screwed a stopper on the 4x4 post. Placed the wheel on the 2x4 and wedge the base of the scissor jack from your car on the tire wall, and brace the top of the jack against the stopper. Expand the jack and break the bead.
I don't see how you removed the old stem. I mean, you just grabbed it with pliers and pulled it out. That shouldn't be possible and it certainly hasn't worked for me. Did you by chance cut it with a knife first that you didn't show? EDIT: Figured it out. Use a knife to cut off the backside flush with the rim. You can't cut the front side because it has the metal valve inside it but the backside is all rubber and cuts easily.
Should be able to cut through the stem with a decent set of side cutters, etc. Just tape the inside of the valve or hold your fingers on it while cutting.
Thanks for sharing! I can think of 100 other things I'd rather spend 15.00 on. a tire shop isn't one of them, plus tire shops in the city are 15.00. If your in a small town they'll rake you over the coals, because they know you don't have any other choice. Was the tire still balanced after this?
If you want to avoid putting your fingers in danger, there's a couple of other solutions. My first choice would be to use a pair of forceps or needle nose pliers. If those weren't long enough, you can fish a loop of wire through the hole and outside the edge of the wheel and then tie a piece of thin string (like mason's line) onto the loop of wire on one end and onto the threads of the tire valve on the other end. Then pull the wire until you and get the string and pull the string until you can get the end of the valve sticking through the wheel. I had to use a similar method to install the bolt that goes through the rear fender on my Harley that is used to attach the rear seat to the fender. Less trouble than removing the rear tire or finding an anorexic midget whose hand could fit inside the space... :)
It was leaking around the edge, where the rubber body of the valve stem meets the steel rim. Even though it looked OK, the rubber was pretty dried out and just couldn't make a tight seal any more.
Get a grip you bunch of old nannies. Whether the tire needed replacing or not, the purpose of the video was demonstrated: changing a valve stem. The only half-decent criticism is that fingers could get royally pinched.
What if you put the tyre under the car at the back end and then jacked it up, either with the jack on the tyre or a block of wood. p.s. how did you know it was the stem leaking and not around the bead?
+bridgendesar Using the jack to push the bead off probably would have been a smarter way to do it. I didn't know about that technique at the time, but next time that's probably what I'll do if Paul Manning's technique doesn't work out for me. I discovered that the leak was at the valve stem using soapy water and looking for bubbles. The technique is so sensitive that it showed the leak even though it was taking days for the tire to leak down.
5 ft/lb to tighten the nut, is it the same for all TPMS the 5 ft/lb? And if you don't have tq wrench, this guy said tighten the nut to snug then turn it 1/2 more turn, is that right.
I've never worked on one with TPMS, but if the manual gives a torque spec, I'm inclined to follow it unless I'm sure it isn't necessary. A torque wrench isn't that expensive.
+Iam free I ran four tire shops and I really appreciate people put stuff like this on the internet. It helps people in a pinch figure out how to be more self-sufficient. God knows we all need that thanks for putting videos like this up,that's pretty cool.
I usually don't do stuff like this, but I did this once to get an old tire to seat just so I could move a vehicle. The trick is just a little starting fluid and not too much like I did. I singed the hair on my hand and arm and the tire caught on fire. It was scary and hilarious at the same time.
The tyre was on it's legal limit anyway, would have been easier and less time consuming to of just got the new tyre it was due. I got a new part worn tyre and balanced for £15. Not a cheap Argentina or Chinese tyre either.
Why are you worried about a bad valve when your tire is almost at the end of the life? You can see really easy the end of life marker is just popping out
Whadaya mean wear bars? The tire's good until you can see the steel belts ;) Yes, I know the tire is worn out. I did get new tires later the same day, but I wanted to see if this was possible while I still had old tires I didn't have to worry about damaging. It is just having fun and seeing what is possible!
Well I'm glad you replaced the tires and keep up with the "do-it-yourself" ideas but I just had to say that once you can see the steel belts it is really too late! this doesn't mean that you can't get lucky and get away with it of course but by that point you are riding on a very thin layer of rubber that was not designed for travel and with the belts making contact with the pavement they could snap at any time. a tiny rock can puncture the tire very easily as well. Rubber hardens over time and heat stress. There is also other considerations like grip properties and how many heat cycles the tire has had and the age ----- it's not always about how much tread is left either. Excessive dry-rot is also good indication of the tires condition.
ffs you could just take the tyre to your local tyre shop im sure it wont break the bank to have a new valve put in... plus it would take a few minutes for them to do it... i wonder how long this took you plus i noticed your tyre is knackered anyway so never mind a leaky valve you need a new tyre and when you have a tyre fitted you get a new valve for free!!
