If you force the piston back with the screw driver...use the old pad. You may damage the new one...just saying. Also...check your resivor. You may want to put a rag under the master cylinder to catch any overflow. Check fluid level when job is done.
Do you need to use any lube on the back of the brake pads? Brake line or silicone lube? Do you have to resurface or replace the rotors? How do u tell if the rotors need to be replaced vs resurfaced?
There should be an anti squeal pad on the back of the pads. Most any lube would burn away eventually. You do need to lube the caliper slide pins. If there is a ridge on leading edge of rotor, replace. I just replace them, turning them is a lot of hassle and not that much cheaper.
Nice video. Before you install the brake disc you should place some coppergrease. This help it stick and when it needs replacing it comes of easy. It prevents the 2 metals eating each other.
wow, this is the best video and user friendly I ever saw.. great,, thank you.. Do you have another video how to change the rooter and pad in the rear of sequoia?
Since this is a DIY video, I won't nitpick, but I must mention one point - before driving the vehicle, make damn sure that you've pumped the pedal until it's hard. Please don't ask me how I know to to this; let's just say it was an expensive lesson. You're welcome.
what are the odds man. I used your videos to work on my mini Cooper all the time. I'm doing a brake job on my dad's truck and wanted to see a quick video on how to do it and you have a video on that as well ha thanks
Great tutorial, but a couple of things I'd add after replacing my front pads and rotors on my 2001 Sequoia. At 3:44 you show removing the 12mm bolt holding the bracket for the brake line. Mine was so stuck, I sheared off the bolt trying to get it out (even after penetrating lube and time for it to set). On the passengers side, I just removed the metal clip, which was much easier and saved me 2 hours (drilling out, trip to store/lunch/ice cream/etc, lol). The other thing is on my 2001 Sequoia Limited 2WD, there is not individual cotter pins, but one pin that has a "C" in the center and it spans both metal pins. Thanks again for the great video! I'm planning on changing my rear pads/rotors also, seems there is some complexity with the parking brake mechanism inside the rotors.
Any idea what size I need for the 2002? The ones I ordered don’t fit. I’m glad you said something about the sizes being different. I thought I was crazy.
Thank you! After watching this video, I am ready to work on my Tundra. Went to dealer before I decided to do the replacement, it will cost me $1,400 just to replace the front rotors and brake pads!! I bought parts online it cost me $431 for all brakes pads, rotors, and rear drum brakes.
You just saved me $600. I didn't have any idea how hard this would be, would I need to bleed the brakes, etc. Watched your video, bought the rotors in the link you gave and did the job in 2 hours. Great video. Thanks so much.
those cotter pins are only nice if you live in a non-salt state. My 2007 Tundra pins were so corroded, that I had to cut them to get the pads off, but there was just no way to get them out of the caliper itself. I had to get a whole set of calipers front and back as well. as there was no way to just swap the pads. The good news that even the huge 07 and up Tundra calipers aren't really that expensive when you get rebuilt parts.
Thanks for the very helpful video. It made replacing the pads and rotors much easier. One thing, my 2005 haf metal plates on the backs of the pads that I removed and put on the new pads. I did not see that step in the video. Also, there were 2 pads with metal clips on the edges and 2 without.
The metal clips are wear indicators. One goes on each side. You should not how they were aligned when it came apart and duplicate that. However, if you didn't get them installed right, don't worry; they're not necessary for the brakes to work.
Not necessary you can open the cap on the break fluid reservoir tank as you press the break solenoids back in the fluid just backs up through the line to the fluid tank, just don't do it to fast or on all the breaks the fluid could spill out if you do.
+Stephen Fry Yup, probably the easiest brakes I've seen on a production vehicle. Would have been perfect if it wasn't for that fixed hydraulic line to the caliper!
+kev carguillo I have not had nearly as much time to do MINI work and video work since my new job. And when I do have work, it's generally the same repairs over and over so no new video for that... (clutch replacement, brakes, supercharger pulley, etc.) . I will be recording and posting an R56 timing chain video pretty soon though.
+Mod MINI could you please consider making a video on your gopro & how you make videos with it. I am thinking of making some diy videos of home repairs and your camera perspective angle would be perfect . example I recently rebuilt a Hitachi framing nailer & there are zero videos on how to do this. hence it took me 4 hours. if I had that head mount camera, I could have filmed what I was doing to help others.
+Mod MINI Thanks. you prefer the Gopro brand head mount to the less expensive Black Pro set that has everything accessories for $34 ? I have a small head, I'll probably have to wear a hat under it. Also, I see there are several versions of GoPro cameras. Could you please link the one you think is good?
