Video was very helpful. I didnt remove the surge tank or battery tray. But watching this before i attempted tonight it was pretty easy remove and install. Unfortunately i ended up removing the master cylinder all together due to internal leaking. After installing the new hydraboost
Just a fyi, this can be done without removing the degas tank/battery tray. You just have to remove the battery and remove the bolts from the degas tank. then you can rotate the degas tank out of the way enough to get the job done. This eliminates having to deal with the coolant. Thanks for the video.
True. But for the purposes of a somewhat instructional video I'd rather have someone unhook it and remove it than fight it and possibly break something.
@@burgerslave101 i did it without without removing either but it's better to show how to do it with everything out of the way to actually see what to do
I really enjoy watching your F-250 Maintenance videos. I have the exact same truck as you and like you, I am meticulous on making sure I keep up with it. I don't buy into the horror stories of the 6.4L that are out there. I believe if you have a properly deleted truck (farm use only of course) and keep up on the maintenance it is an awesome engine. It has served me extremely well. And when you catch the small things early on, I really enjoy working on the truck myself. Onto this job at hand. I believe my hydro boost also needs a replacing. I have noticed that when I look up at it from underneath the truck it has a lot of filth and grime on it. I spray it clean with BrakKleen, but notice after a few hundred miles, it's filthy again. On the other hand I have no ill symptoms, such as loss of braking power, sloppy brake pedal, etc. I also don't notice a loss of fluid. (i believe it shares fluid from the Power Steering reservoir - Please correct me if I am wrong). Anyway, for now I am keeping an eye on it. But when and if I get around to it, this video will be helpful. Any chance you have the part Number for the part? I think it's 7C3Z2005AA. I imagine you went with a Genuine OEM part. It's not cheap!
Hey Mike, thanks for the comment! Yes, I did use OEM and you do have the correct part number. Mine had been leaking just long enough to annoy me, (which was no time at all) but I have been traveling for work and didn't get to it till the video. Ill keep the videos coming as long as I am able! As always, thanks for your support!
Honestly I don't. They came with the new part. I'll do some research though and get back to you. IF you aren't able to find them however, hydraulic o-rings that are "close" should work. Don't use normal rubber- the fluid will eat them.
I’m about to replace mine and was wondering if it’s impossible to do so without taking the coolant res out. Also my steering is stiff when at a stop. Is that also a symptom of just the hydro boost?
I dont know about impossible but it sure won't be easy. There's really no reason to not take out the reservoir, its pretty easy and refilling it is as simple as taking the cap off. As far as stiff steering at a stop, the hydraboost shouldn't be the cause unless its restricting somehow. That sounds more like a weak pump or one that isn't adjusting flow at low rpm like it should.
I believe it was an OEM from Ford, these do have a habit of leaking around that accumulator like mine was. I think I considered aftermarket but decided on OEM. As far as master cyl or not, my brakes worked okay just the pedal was not stiff and it took effort to stop. Its really up to you if you replace it or not, I felt it was not needed at the time. If you're not sure, use your better judgment and lean twards safe instead of cheap-- replace it. These trucks weigh a lot, stopping is a must!
@@juansebastianlopez8828 I didn't have to simply because I didn't break into the lines. You will however have to do the steering bleed procedure as the hydraboost gets its pressure from the steering pump.
Hey bro, I just changed both the master cylinder and hydroboost with OEM parts, but I'm getting an annoying break fluid leak and I can't figure out where is coming from. Is not from the sensors or the pressure lines. The hydroboost is wet underneath. Could it be the part where they both meet? I see some small drops from the whole under the hydroboost. Any ideas? Thanks in advance 🤙
1. Chock the rear wheels and raise the front end, supporting it on jack stands (You must be able to turn the wheels lock to lock). 2. With the engine NOT running, turn the key to the accessories position (Unlock the steering wheel). 3. Turn the wheels, lock to lock 20 times. 4. Press the brake five times. 5. Repeat steps three and four 25 times. Because hydraboost trucks share the power steering's reservoir and get their hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump, this is the only way to bleed the air out of the system. I know it seems excessive in the amount of times you do the procedure, but believe me, it works. Be sure to check your power steering reservoir level after the first few cycles, it WILL go down. If you still have issues after doing this procedure, there is something else wrong. Start checking lines and seals if it continues to have issues.
The brakes shouldn't ever fail because of the Hydroboost. It's merely a hydraulic assist, meaning less foot force to do the same work. If the HB has failed, it will just take more pressure on the pedal to stop. If the HB fails catastrophically and there's Power Steering fluid leaking everywhere, you'll most likely destroy the PS pump and have no power steering. Both should work, however, more difficult to use.
@@USAF99 that seems to be my problem. The brakes work it just takes more there is no assist. But the steering seems normal. So should be the hydro boost. Hope so because I already bought the hydro boost. Thanks for making the video, gives me a good idea. My truck is a 2009 Ford f250 with a 6.4.
you ever had any issues on your braking? mines not stopping like it should, Ive replaced both front calipers, brake pads, bleed the system and still the same. pedal is good but i really have to make sure i hit the brakes good and hard to stop.
check the slider bolts on your calipers. Are they seized? They should slide in an out without hardly any effort. If you find even one seized or tough to move, take it out, clean it up and lube it up with brake grease. Re-bleed and see if that doesn't change your issue.
@@USAF99 that was the first thing I checked. All good. I just did a complete fluid flush so I’ll take it out for a test drive later. Getting hit with a lot of rain from hurricane here in New York right now
@@Hulker28 You said front calipers but didn't specify if you replaced the rears. Are those up to the same level of good as the fronts? Believe it or not, if one of the rears is sticking it will cause issues. The brakes actually apply the rears first as well so that might be your extra effort to stop.
@@mevencio15 Most likely air in the system. Since these trucks share power steering and assisted brakes with the same pressure system, and you opened that system to replace the HBoost, I would start with an ABS Service Bleed (Forscan can do it) and then a power steering system bleed. Both procedures are very easy to do and both will rid air from the system you are working on. Hope that helps!
