Here I replaced a LG linear compressor with a regular old school 1/3 hp compressor. I drew out another way to do the same thing with a bldc compressor for a friend and I've included the schematic for that in this video as well.
I do commercial refrigeration and use these embracos almost exclusively. They are almost bullet proof, just very hard to kill. They are not for ice machines, which typically utilize R404. I appreciate guys like you figuring out how to stick it to manufacturers that try to screw consumers. As I can't think of a single embraco I've installed in many kitchen and back bar units ever failing in past 13 years, I am going to use one for my project. Giant 30CuFt LG which only ran for 9 months out of the box... LG will never fess up that the linear compressor is complete junk because they've presented it as the greatest innovation ever and bragged about it and focused on it as a (the) major selling point. Shame on them.
They lost a class action lawsuit on it I believe. But I just bought one of those 31 cuft LG fridges used and not cooling for $100, I knew it was likely the compressor but still worth the money if fixed with a stock compressor but I was curious if I could bulletproof it.
I've been doing this for about 5 years now in 100+ refrigerators, not just lg, that have inverter comps. It's a cheap and easy solution to putting reliable embraco in everything. Just got a box of solid state relays In the mail Yesterday lol. Great video.
This is awesome and I’m gonna offer this option to a customer. I got some good new compressors that came from juice machines I’ve used in other fridges in the past but those had the single speed compressors and I was unsure of how to run a single phase in a fridge with the inverter. The condenser fan with relay is pure genius. Thanks for the video!
Awesome info. I plan on giving this a try. I'm also looking at machining out a new valve for the old compressor. It appears the valve gets a hole worn into it causing the issues. Maybe using a different metal and/or thickness and toying with different metal heat treatments. Thanks again for the info.
I just performed this retrofit myself, after LG couldn't get anyone to even look at our dead refrigerator. They gave us a settlement but I couldn't see tossing a two year old refrigerator in the dump when it's a pretty nice design in most other respects. I slapped a 1/5+ hp Embraco compressor in it, slaving a s/s relay off the DC supply to the condenser fan and it's currently working great now. Some people have expressed concerns about the controller popping codes after disconnecting the inverter feed to the compressor but our model didn't. I can see that being a possibility for some models though. Nevertheless, it worked on a model LSXC22486D. The new compressor was model FF7.5HBK1. Have fun tracing out the wires to the condenser fan. They change color somewhere between the controller and the disconnect at the condenser. They were gray and white/black up at the board harness, but red and black at the fan harness. Polarity is important if you use a s/s relay and make sure you get the power supply wires to that fan, not the signal wires. It's a four wire, stepper motor type fan and I wouldn't want to see what happens if you tap into the signal wires.
How's it working so far? If you took the power wires then you might have a problem with the compressor running all the time. Depends on the model. I doubt it's a stepper, I'd guess it's a bldc with a signal to run and a feedback line with a constant 12vdc pos and neg going to it. I have messed with those and will use a 5vdc relay on the signal line in for fan speed. I'd think that's the case here, but the full speed run is 9+vdc so putting a relay on that might be close enough to close it and coil voltage is variable on relays. I don't use solid states though. If it's working fine after a week or two then great, if not you might have grabbed the wrong wires if it freezes up from the compressor running non stop.
Thank you so much! Watched your video and started researching compressors. I decided on the Frigidaire 5304475102 (Panasonic DHS73C12RBU) which came as a kit with everything needed to install. I did the wiring, and had a friend install the compressor. Install went smooth, and it started up with no problems.
Oh they will in the near future. ANOTHER CLASS ACTION in 2024 is being launched. Waiting for 'class' status. The suit was assembled in 2/2024 by attorney Azar Mouzari in Beverly Hills, 468 N Camden. She is suing LG for the inadequate Linear compressor and fraud. Fraud because LG knowingly continued to sell the defective compressors in the refrigerators. There has already been a class action law suit in 2018. If anyone embarked on that lawsuit they are not eligible unless they purchased another frig after 2018.
Which wire are you tapping into on the plug at the top right it looks like perhaps the red one which is one of the three colors going to the fan below and the other one looks like it's a 10 color but it does not seem to be coming from the left side of the plug as you show the picture there it's more on the right side of the plug actually.
Walter , whats up with lg french doors you get in with both fans inside not running...one would think the circuit board, the main brain. Then you try to land a boatd, even one from sears (it was a kenmore/lg) ever find those? Also the compressor was running intermittantly.
I have a friend with a Kenmore that uses this exact compressor and main board. compressor went out. I debated going this route but didn't know if the board would notice and throw any codes. owner decided to replace it with another LG as they have updated the compressor part number LG TCA35911910 (FLB075LANA) so hopefully they fixed the problem. if it fails again we are likely going with a embraco 134 series compressor and wiring it like you did.
This bypasses the over current error that has caused me problems in the past with the replacement linear compressor. I don't know of an under current error that exists, only the over current. So this bypassing the inverter circuit won't or hasn't caused an issue on the few that I know were done this way. I have feedback on a few but not many and have not heard of an undercurrent issue error. I see this being done, but no mention of that. So I doubt it, but can't say for sure.
hey for sizing compressor my lg pulls 2.7amps with maths out to around 1/3hp, can't find a 600a 1/3hp but can find 1/4hp. Do you think it would be sufficient to run the fridge?
Okay the car relay work good without the line heating up but I'm going to replace it with an all AC when as you suggest and I thank you,sir for your help on this!!
@@Asianredneckoutdoors any of the smaller relays, that are rectangular will work fine, the square 30 amps require more voltage than the ref.s fan wires. They’re about 3/4 “ by 1 1/4” or so, by nearly an inch tall...those relays work fine, even though the points usually get d.c. but they’re good quality. The 20 amp relays they are. Toyota’s and some American cars have them.
My old Maytag is 18+ years old. It came with the house when I bought it so the actual age is unknown. I’m curious as to why LG would go from something so reliable like the other style to their current linear compressor set up? According to the lawsuit says they had issues with lines corroding ultimately leading to compressor failure. Pre and post 2014. Don’t know if that still applies to current models.
Good day I checked the wires by the condenser fan and PCB board for the 12 volt output but when I press the reset button three times the compressor does not turn off, everythings else shut off...
I´m interested to get information to integrate EMBRACO VCC3 variable speed controller with BLDC compressor, how is the integration of temperature control of LG PCB with VCC3, since Linear compressors are a poor performance and realiability ..On the other hand I think the replacement of linear compressor with a conventional one is no quite accurate since the PCB temperature control is not on- off just through PWM controls the linear compressor increasing or decreasing the speed depending of the load.Just the linear compressor is shutting down when defrosting process starts..
Hi Walter what compressor do you recommend as a good choice for this method? I want to order a new compressor. The original is the LG FC75LBNA and was trying to determine the BTU capacity needed to match it but cannot seem to find those specs. Thanks for the great videos you post!
Thanks! This one was a 1/3 horsepower compressor that I think he got from coldspot.com. If it were me I'd use a 1/3 hp embraco, tecumpse, or panisonic compressor. The embraco would be my first choice but it's probably double the price of a 530447515 or the Amana 5304475102 is another one. I can't find the "Amana" one that I used on another project but it started with an R and was originally to replace 12 with 134A. The first one I used was a 1/5hp and probably closer to spec but I'd just find the amana part number or use one of those frigidaire ones.
According to the Kenmore Elite 74025 service manual, it's a 925btu compressor. However, in the LG compressor catalog, the FLB075LANA is rated ASHRAE Capacity 330W. According to the ASHRAE SI Conversions spreadsheet, that's 1,126btu. Not exactly a small compressor.
HI Walter,I have a cuestión,do you recommend buy a LG refrigerator with inverter linear compressor? It's true the compresor It's not good,and what brand of refrigerator you recommend, thank you for you help.
Ok I finally got it I’m just going to use the fan wire down by the fan below instead of figuring out by color above, which didn’t work. You’re using the relay below any way...great video, took some thinking,
Hooking to cond fan wires did it work out what voltage is there ac dc ? Going to try on junk lg. Have a nice 25a 12-32 dc.relay 480v rated I can add a cap and diode if needed .🤔
Is it possible to get more specific info on the relays and wires added? I have an LG that failed with the replaced compressor. I bought a new 115 volt embraco compressor
I like these. You can get them in 5vdc, 9vdc and 12vdc. I'd use the 12v. The fan should run at 12 but I have used the 9 in other applications for varying power supplies. For line going to the compressor and relay I use probably a 12 gauge wire or lamp cord works well. For the 9-12v signal wire you can use pretty much whatever is easy to work with. There really is no substantial load on triggering a relay.
@@theappliancetechnician thanx a lot .have a 3year old waiting on lg .am landlord' bought another frige suspect a buyout they can't find anyone to fix it .may do same as spare I would cut original cord put a outlet box at bottom w relay
Does the change to a normal compressor that requires oil ever clog up the capillary tubes since they are very tiny for the dual evaporators? I was thinking my broke one could have a clogged tubes. What do you think?
LG linears have oil in them. The oil-less ones came out after these in a different brand. Clean oil shouldn't clog a cap tube as it circulates in the system.
Walter, have you found a return line from an LG dual coil restriction? on this lg it has a device that splits the line after the filter into two cap tubes, and CV the return lines ,"t" together to have one return. bit the lower freezer. evap..does show blockage as the cap spits out from, when testing with nitrogen but the cut return line has no flow. how the hell can a 5/16 line be blocked?
daniel rickerbaker I don’t think it’s possible for the 5/16 to be clogged. More than likely the cap tube but I’ve had a few that I couldn’t fix with something in the system.
@@theappliancetechnician that’s just what I was wondering, but why when you break the line at the end of the cap tube, at the lower evap. Is nothing coming out of the 5/16 ? This is so strange. I cut it back to full 5/16 width and nothing. But maybe the cap slows down with pressure, or is less than it should be, fooling me.
can i apply this schematic for LG refrigerator linear compressor rate input 220-240v. replacing the linear compressor with a conventional compressor using a 12v relay. Thanks
You can apply it to any circut that will run a compressor on it's own. A split phase is simpler but I've done it with a bldc with a vcc3 control board but you need to program an arduino to run it. I did another video of that and how it works. Either will work and I've done both for proof of concept.
The compressor failed in my 2018 Kenmore refrigerator manufactured by LG and one of those crappy LG linear compressor. The power-feed comes out the bottom of the cabinet just above the compressor with a black and red wire. I'm assuming it should be 120 volts but it's about 6.8 volts ac. If it was an older type of fridge I would just tap off the condenser fan with the 120 since they come on together in older bottles. So I have a replacement nonlinear oppressor of similar BTU. Could you help me out with the wiring has the feed coming down through the bottom of the cabinet isn't adequate voltage near 120. I want to do it simply and we'll have to run wires down I'm sure from the top of the circuit board which is on the top of the refrigerator under a big cover
Sounds like a garbage reading, like the cord is broken or you're measuring at the wrong place. The cord coming in should be 120vac. The voltage to the condenser fan should be about 12vac. The feedback line should ready about 4-6 so if you're tapped into that there's the problem. ?
No, I find that the data tags aren't allways accurate. Add some. I'll charge by weight and if it's lower than 0 go to 0-5 on the low side minimum and sometimes as high as 20 on the dual evaps with the 3 way valve.
You're my hero ;-). This is just the kind of hack that I hope to use on a Kenmore Elite french door refrigerator that has the ill-fated linear compressor (dead in 4 years). The recip compressors easily last over a decade, and this is the perfect hack for a refrigerator heart transplant.
Successfully completed the transplant on a Kenmore Elite 74025. Used a Panasonic DJK66C10 compressor (rated 813btu), controlled with a 25 amp SSR. (Had to use a diode + 1,000uF cap on the SSR control leads for smooth "off.") I actually re-used the original compressor's wires, and mounted the SSR above the main board, making for a clean and elegant fix. One major change: I had to unplug the 3-way valve in order to get the fridge to actually cycle the compressor; otherwise the compressor never turns off (as it cycles between fridge and freezer compartments). Note that the service manual indicates to plug the fridge in, and then unplug it around 12 seconds later, to ensure that the 3-way valve is in the "middle" position...that's when I unplug the 3-way valve. Also had to add more refrigerant than expected to get the HVACR numbers closer to the desired values. Without the 3-way valve, the system is still able to regulate the fridge and freezer temperatures separately by turning on/off the associated evaporator fans, even though the refrigerant is still flowing through both coils. While the fridge works nicely @ 1.2A, running ~50% duty cycle (15-20mins on, 15-20mins off), there is a periodic "whooshing" sound in the refrigerant, which is presumably due to the slightly undersized compressor. The system was fully vacuumed down to 300 microns before recharging, and I replaced the filter-drier...so there shouldn't be noncondensibles at fault. Note that it doesn't "whoosh" if the 3-way valve is only running one coil...though the "smaller system" becomes overcharged in that case, with the refrigerant frost line extending all the way down the side of the compressor. (Ideally, you want the frost line at least 2" from the compressor.) It's been a few weeks, but so far so good. I will note that the linear compressor controller does throw a blink code error without the linear compressor attached...but it doesn't affect anything else on the fridge. That's my 2¢. Oh, and never use a Supco compressor if you care about efficiency. Tried an SPC990, rated at 2.2A...but it ran 4A instead, not to mention the weird port config. No complaints with the Panasonic DJK66C10.
@@sidlori1592 Great info there. How's it going? The only thing I'd worry about is uncontrollable ice build up that defrost can't clear with the evaps being cold and the fan not running. Interesting that you were able to get it to flood both evaps at the same time. Cool project. I don't see how the 3 way would cause isues with it running all the time. Was it loud or what was the problem with it running all the time?
@@theappliancetechnician It's been going great, with one little hiccup. One morning I noticed the compressor suddenly began to get very loud, total fridge current was 3.6A (instead of the usual 1.0-1.2A). That scared me a little...so I quickly unplugged it. When I plugged it in shortly afterwards to test it, the compressor ran for ~10min at the usual 1A, then shut off for a defrost cycle (3.6A with both defrost coils on). While I don't know for sure, I suspect that the control board was utilizing the 3-way features to full extent possible: trying to run defrost on just the freezer, and running the compressor on the fridge! With the 3-way disconnected, that resulted in a very high suction load for the compressor; not fatal, but it sure didn't sound good! (I remedied it by adding four discrete components: an NPN transistor between fan negative and the SSR's negative control lead, with a base pull-up resistor to 5V, also connecting a small diode from the base to each of the defrost relay coils [which are pulled negative to turn the relays on, which passes through a diode > turns the transistor off.]) Hard to test because the fridge only defrosts every couple of days. That circuit makes it so that if either defrost coil is turned on, the compressor will shut off. The major problem with putting a single speed compressor in a fridge with a 3-way valve is that the refrigerant system has fixed "orifices" (cap tubes, etc.) If the original system selects just one evap, it will also throttle down the compressor. (Otherwise, you risk high compressor head pressure...and simply lousy efficiency. I mean, if the fridge runs a constant 1.0A 24/7, that's 1,051kWh/year...quite a bit over the factory 740KWh/year. (It ran for over 3 hours continuously with an ambient temperature in the low 60s before I disconnected the 3-way valve. A major power load for an off-grid solar system in cloudy weather.) Worst case, the extra refrigerant could flood the compressor...and you're guaranteed a dead compressor in short order. (Liquid can't be compressed...at least not like gas.) One solution would be to use less refrigerant in the system (sizing it for one coil at a time)...but then you have a major problem if the control board runs both evap coils--now there isn't enough refrigerant to cool the whole system down. (The control board actually will run "both" if the whole unit has just been plugged in, or as needed.) I think I get what you're saying about defrost...and that's probably exactly what I experienced happening. As far as getting the 3-way in the "both" position, the service manual states: "Before making a sealed system repair: Start with the power cord unplugged from the outlet. Plug in the power cord and between 6 and 12 seconds after it has been pugged in (sic), unplug it from the power source. this will allow both sides of the 3 way valve to be opened to allow for proper evacuation." Typos and all ;-) I will note that the Panasonic DJK66C10 (and the Supco for that matter!) has a slightly shorter footprint than the original LG compressor...only two of the mounting posts can be utilized. But in the end, it works.
@@sidlori1592 Interesting theory, I don't believe that it would defrost one while the other runs. But I don't know, just what I think. It's all about solving problems here, good stuff.
Great video. What would be a good replacement for a LG fc75lbna linear compressor to a conventional single phase compressor? Could you do a part list or a link to locate parts?
They change, unfortunately and you have to see what the supplier has. I usually can find an embraco that will work but with all the new ones coming out it's getting harder. I don't really have a go to for this as I don't do many this way. There are some sites that sell compressors and what I look for is a 1/3hp non commercial split phase and can find a decent priced compressor that will work. The commercial ones will work but pull a ton of amps. A friend ordered one and I installed it years ago and it's still running in a garage without issue but it pulled 2-3 amps if I remember right. I think I posted on that one either here or my other channel under the appliance technician.
Hope your doing well and can offer some advice. Looking to replace a LG FLB075LBNA... but want a good one. Ain't too worried about LG control as I can make that work, just want a compressor that will last! Thanks
I'd use an split phase 1/3 hp embraco. You'll have to fish around for part numbers and see what you can find at what price you're looking for. I wouldn't buy the cheapest, nor the most expensive but the one in the middle based on what's available that you can find. Or go the cheapest route possible and don't think it's going to last forever. They do have other problems too and some can't be fixed.
@@walterbaumy7124 Thanks, yea know not cheapest or most expensive... want one that lasts and doesn't appear LG lincomp's do that well. I'll check out embraco ones... would like a model thats been around awhile (reliable) and is still produced (can get a new one and not one sitting on shelf for years. Many thanks.
Good morning Walter, I have a question for you (and anyone who can answer), I just swapped out my compressor on the LG LXSX26366S (2016 model), the compressor is LG FC75LBNA and was swapped with a DanfossTL2.5G. I used an external power source (extension cord) to power the compressor, I did not pull power from the refrigerator at all, because when it started, I stick my meter in the back of the power line of the Molex plug to the compressor, it modulated from 87V to 155V and it keeps modulate itself up and down, I don't believe the Danfoss like that at all. My question is, can I use a 110V coil contactor (instead of the 12V DC relay in your diagram) as a switch on and of for the refrigerator, and use the line voltage from the compressor (from the Molex lug of the refrigerator (from the PCB)) as a signal line to close the 110V contactor? The compressor itself will still be powered by a short extension cord. So basically, power from the extension cord goes to the 110V contactor, as soon the refrigerator needs cooling, it sends power to the Molex plug (which power the contactor) and closed the circuit (which turns on the compressor). Do you think it will work that way? Will the 110V contactor work with that modulating AC power from the PCB? I have tried to grab the 12V DC signal from CON 8 (pins 14, 15, and 16) but it is too weak to power the 12V DC relay like you were shown. I am open to any suggestions. Thank you, you all!
You still need to add FL-3FF-S-Z relay module 5v. To the signal Orange wire that turns on the fan coming out by the condenser fan or PCB, Blk & Red=12v...
So how did you make an old school compressor work instead of a linear wired straight to power? The compressor won’t cycle off ever or when it goes through defrost. So I don’t see how that works
It's not wired to straight power, the control board is cycling the compressor on and off using a relay wired straight to power. Check the part of the video that shows the schematic.
@@theappliancetechnician that’s my fault. After watching all the way through. I did the exact same to a friends fridge. Worked great 👍🏻 thank you for doing this
Walter, thanks for the video. I got a hold of a 5 year old Kenmore Elite (LG). I did as above and tried charging the unit. After initial blast (abt 70 psi), I plugged in the fridge, compressor started but no circulation of refrigerant :-( Pressure remained the same. The LED on the main board blinks 3 times which I understand is an inverter code for "connection". Can you help me out? The unit was diagnosed as bad compressor by a tech according to the person I got it from....Thanks in advance.
@@theappliancetechnician This is the best my research has done and not on my model exactly but seems consistent on more than one. Page 31 Thanks. s1.img-b.com/build.com/mediabase/specifications/lg/1336959/lg-lsxc22336-service-booklet.pdf
@@iceyu2235 Compressor overcurrent. Means that ther's a problem and the compressor is working too hard. It could be an overcharge, blockage in the cap tube or bad compressor. I have had that problem and wasn't able to fix it with the traditional means. I tried everything I could think of and it seemed that at a little over 1 amp it would throw that error. I think it's contamination in the sealed system but I haven't been able to prove it and just ran out of patience on that one.
@@theappliancetechnician hmmmm... there's no charge in it yet, though. I hook-up with fridge off and shoot refrigerant in. I get 60 psi or so. Fridge is then connected and there it stays. No apparent action by the compressor although it's working. I didn't think that part of the system could still be monitored with the inverter being by-passed, though...
@@theappliancetechnician yea but doesnt it still have the old residue r600a oil inside the system. Because Im afraid that r134a freon cant be used together with the old r600a oil in the system.
How about replacing the filter dryer? Lol. System has to be cleaned. Most of the time the oil gets in the condenser it's best to clean it out to give that sucker 5 plus years. Great video by the way. I thought I was the only one posting this
HA! I just realized that I didn't. Like I probably said this was a proof of concept/garage project more than anything. I don't know that I'd even do this for a paying customer. I know one of my employees has this one and uses it every day, and a friend did something similar using a bldc compressor and a board I programmed for one for him. But yeah, good eye. Never did put a new drier in it, lol.
Hi Walt, I find your video very interesting and I'm trying to fix such a lg with compressor gone bad. There are 4 wires to the condenser motor. The pink and white/red wires are the only 2 that gives 12 Vdc. It is also noticeable that once power is applied to the control board, 12 volts is available, and the fan doesn't start until after the system has run through diagnostic checks and go to normal operating mode. 12 volts is always present as long as power is on. How do you control the cycling of the compressor when the set temperature is reached and what happens when the system is in defrost. Very anxious to this cause I'm trying to fix one of those same lg.
I'm not an expert, but as the relay is controlled by the evaporator fan, when the defrost cycle comes from the board, it shuts down the evaporator's fan, so the relay shuts off too, and the compressor stops receiving power. It's that simple.
@@josemiguel6881 I can respect the part of your comment that states "not an expert" because "it is NOT that simple". It seems you're trying to say that the evaporator motor is switch on by a relay on the mainboard?... It is not. There are more than one type of motherboard for these fridges. This board only use one relay. It switches on the defrost circuit. The fan motor carries 4 wires of which 2 are the 12 vdc wires which is always hot. The other 2 wires I presume is signal from an IC that switches on the motor as needed. I hope this don't confuse you more.
@@warlordbeto818sfv4 I learnt that there are voltage sensing unit that can be used to sense voltage from the connector pins for the compressor. With a relay you would be able to control the on/off of the regular compressor that you installed. I was not able to aquire such a unit so I used the defrost circuit to control the relay instead. This allows the compressor to stop while defrosting is in progress thus allowing the evaporator to defrost completely. The shortfall of this is that the compressor does not cycle when the setpoint is reached but the evaporator fan does. Temperature is maintained and no excessive build-up of frost take place. The customer is quite satisfied with the overall result.
@@euphony62 I was able to do this trick about 8 or 9 times before I got tripped up with a LG with 4 wire condenser fan motor. Now I'm stuck, I have been lucky to know what I'm doing on the mechanical side of things but the electrical part is getting more complicated and I never paid attention when I was trained on electrical boards because I figured if it was a bad board I would replace it but the old saying goes. There is no such thing as a short cut, I'm hoping someone can help me. I'm looking at the diagram for the Fridge now LSXS26326S/02 and there is more heaters on my diagram than I expected. If I could wire mine the same way you wired yours what would the defrost circuit be labeled under on my schematic? Any help would be greatly appreciated
I don't know what models you're talking about but the old models had feed back lines that were "pwm" lines. So use the right lines to get your relay signal. Or adapt and use a relay based on the carrying current capability of the pwm line. Either way. It would be the same theory using different coil values on the relay.
Very good experiment but what voltage did you get to close the replay i try i and i can get 12 volt to close or pull in the replay and next when you open the door of the fridge the gan stop let me know what you think respond back thanks God bless
So... is it still working. the first setup is so simple i might go that route instead of buying another linear compressor. what the downside to running of a relay being energized by the 12v circuit? what the issue with running that neutral? im going to order an embraco and give it a shot. should i get a smaller one that matches the specs on the old lg compressor ? thank you!
The neutral was for proof of concept. It would probably give you issues with a GFI outlet but that's about it in reality. I run the neutral to neutral if I do one now. Downside to running a relay is that the relay will eventually burn up. May take 30 years but it will eventually burn up. There are boards that don't like this and you have to wire in a fan or something in place of the old compressor wires to send power to. That is a brand new to me finding, and we're trying the smallest fan we can find first. It errors of an open circuit for the compressor and won't start it. I put a heater in the circuit where the compressor used to be and it runs the compressor fine. We found that one last weekend, it's a newer one.
@@theappliancetechnician this is a 7 year old LG, pcb is on top of fridge. It's up and running now but takes 3hrs+ to recover once the doors have been opened (opened for 5 minutes) I installed my new dryer backwards so I need to fix that and see if it changes anything
@@devoncrampton5223 It sounds like a low charge. Try adding a couple oz to it and see what happens before you go cutting it open again. See what happens first.
@@theappliancetechnician hate to waste your time, but LG sent me a new linea(free)r, so im going to put that in & do the software update. see what happens. i still have the embarco if its doesn't workout.
No but good question. If there is a compressor underamperage fault I would expect it to trigger that one. I know there is an overamperage fault on some of them but this one didn't even notice. You could get around but it might be trickier and take some experimentation to get the right combination.
I think the inverter section of the mainboard is separate from the rest of the fault codes that appear on the front panel. So I assume if it did fault the inverter logic then just the blinking LED codes for the inverter fault would occur with nothing showing on the front panel as an error. I could be wrong just my understanding after reading the tech manual for my LG fridge. The fault codes on the front are all things like fans not working, ice maker faults, thermister faults etc. The inverter faults only show as the blinking LED codes and the rest of the fridge logic doesn't know what the inverter is doing. It just sends signal to turn on and off the inverter and speed up and slow down but has no feedback from inverter if there was a problem with the compressor. Hence the owner comes home to melted ice cream and water all over the floor from the ice maker but they had no idea there was any problem with the fridge at all even tho the compressor was not running for a few days because no error appeared on the panel.
If you have the notoriously crappy LG FC75LNBA compressor that's in LG, Kenmore etc...you can swap in a recip compressor using this method and the controller never skips a beat. The design has sensors for everything except the actual compressor (which makes it fairly useless). The only thing I'd recommend is to run the line voltage through a wire shield then pop the cover back on. On the bizarre chance there would ever be a fire, having the wiring enclosed can save you from having your policy invalidated.
Walter Baumy ..I thought the fan relay provides only 9-12 volts and youre running 110 through it? No close up of that, but why wouldn’t the fan get 110 volts, which it does not want...are there others connections on the relay ? You’d need the hot wire of the relay out, for the compressor
Where are you at with this? You starting to get it or still confused? The relay sends 110 to the compressor when the fan comes on and closes with the condenser fan voltage.
@@theappliancetechnician ive got that understood. Im going to run the relay, a 20 amp auto relay(o.k.?) Off of the condensor fan wires, from underneath. The black and red show 12v. Dc. Is the thin wires big enough for the auto relay? I can see how cool they stay. But i ll bet you know.
@@bluuedaniel You can't count on them to be the same color across all models anyway. You only need 2 supplies. dc for closing the relay coming from the fan line, and 110 supplied to the relay. The board is probably marked for the condenser fan in real small letters.
Cool idea! Anyone know whether or not this type of repair would cause problems with a homeowner's insurance policy? Insurance companies are in the business to protect their shareholders by rejecting claims, and I'd think the policy could be easily canceled or no-pay should this cause any damage to the home it's in.
Insulate connections, enclose the wiring in a back cover and make sure you don't defeat the OL protection, you're good to go. Anything that look skanky would draw the ire of a fire investigator and any mod you perform invalidates the UL/CSA listing for the appliance. (even if it's just a low voltage mod). A more suitable reefer design would have considered the possibility of a failure, triggering a micro reactor in the freezer compartment that would generate a small black hole that would suck the reefer and your steaks into an alternate dimension. The cooling system on the Lunar Module is still working 50 years after launch, but we can't get a refrigerator to last 10 years.
@@gks6022 "triggering a micro reactor in the freezer compartment that would generate a small black hole that would suck the reefer and your steaks into an alternate dimension." hahahaha love it
Hi , my bad compressor is LG LINEAR 220-60HZ , i bought a SAMSUNG MKV190C-L2B. 240V .3PH , 0-200HZ . Do you think it is ok to install this compressor ? thank very much for all your help .
I think you can use any compressor that you can find a way to run. I'm not sure what that is. Do you know if it's a split phase or an inverter (BLDC) compressor?
HI WALTER , IF IT IS OK TO USE THIS HIGH VOLTAGE COMPRESSOR , COULD YOU JUST DRAW THE WIRING DIAGRAM PLEASE , IF YOU DO NOT MIND . THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP
@@Khslil You would need an inverter control board to run it. It can be done but you'd need more stuff. 1 a control, 2 a probgrammed arduino to run the board. I drew one like that for a friend and that's what I run in frankenfridge.
Hi there, I have the same challenge but my board's compressor fan control is not digital (0 or 12) instead it sends a pwm (from connector 5 pin1 ) and that is to change the fan's speed. the only way so far I have found is to insert a transistor circuit to get the pwm signal and send it to the relay but not sure if the fan under this control will fully turn off (it does in test mode 3) any ideas will be appreciated.
It’s a Kenmore Elite made by LG. All fans have 4 wires. 12v, Gnd, Feedback and control (pwm); could not find anywhere electric diagram for the fan. I just designed the board to work with low voltage then to be sure the fan stops created a test program in a controller to count the compressor cycles
The control board doesn’t have transistor las for each fan which is actually different to the LG model one that has 2 wires only and controlled by transistor. It’s a good challenge but think gonna get it done
@@sergioluna8471 I'd like to see a schematic or a plan on that. I'm not sure I'm following. There's many more ways to accomplish the same product though so if you can figure out a way to do it from the control board then that's cool too. My goal is to hijack the wheel, not reinvent it. ;)
@@theappliancetechnician I added this circuit to get the pwm signal from pin 1 con 5 to start stop the compressor. all working great. czh-labs.com/electronics-salon-dpdt-signal-relay-module-12vdc-ry12w-k-relay-has-assembled-p1024-p1024.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwupD4BRD4ARIsABJMmZ-1WNeVs-ZYKIr6j9qR4eaZakRgNMCmpzIk_K-dj0js7i5RUdhhzjYaAjV8EALw_wcB
New new new comment: I found on my Frigidaire project to bring the compr. over from 220 to 110 that a plain old 12volt phone charger is adequate which has 1 and 1/2 amps rating I don't know what happened to the other relay I used to but I harvested another Auto relay and it's working fine compressor cool usual heat up real a very minor heat about it.. and I tapped into the 110 volt fan which is different than LG to get the source for the charger /voltage converter
awesome....I really dont know why you added a second part where you installed another linear...I would have dumped the liner direct into the garbage can. secondly your a great re-engineer. But Im doing my modifications from the dc inverter box below by the motor. Its the exact same LG brand...POS there's 2 sources of clean 115volt in the lower box. im tapping the lines by the capacitor quick connect to power the old school motor 3 wire. this puts me ahead of the defrost timer. but as for temp....i use ink bird controller off e-bay 17 and power the ink bird in the same spot. as for 1/3hp.....amperage..i think say 1/3hp at embraco 43lra covers 1190 btu to 5300 btu most of these 20cubes can run off a 1/5th hp. it just pumps a lil longer. but any motor 10.0 lra-thru 14lra will easily cover this style of fridge. used.....(puts you in the 50 dollar motor range.).
Curiously, the neutral to the frame didn't yield but about a third of the voltage so I went up and tapped into the neutral from The a.c. line in on the board.
Walter NEW-- NEW QUESTION. In a lot of feedback actually I used the phone transformer for a 12-volt on another project and it's was rated at one and a half amp and 15 watt maximum but it smokes the automotive relay I used (which worked out the last time) so I guess I'll go to the Grangers and get a bigger Transformer I just want you to know I don't know if the phone charger for your 12 volts DC will work very well it's rated 1 and 1/2 amp output I guess or perhaps it's the draw on the little mini coil that actuates the relay action
@@theappliancetechnician not on frigidaire...its 110. I was surprised the one and a half amp cell phone style Charger wasn't enough for the little fan but the relay smoked immediately so I'm ordering a 6:00 amp and getting another car relay
@@theappliancetechnician I could have used the 110 to run a Transformer from the condenser fan but I elected to use the main wires in instead and not take a chance
@@theappliancetechnician not on Frigidaire I used a cellphone style Transformer to power the relay and the relay smoked immediately so I'm going to get a new relay in a bigger Transformer but I'm surprised I need to as a little fan you tap in on wouldn't use amps either
I'm not sure really. Try it out as it's not going to hurt anything. Car relays are 12vdc, relays are 120vac closed by dc voltage. So they are very similar. If nothing else it will work as a proof of concept to get the compressor running and see what happens. I don't think I'd leave it on and would use a 120v relay instead for the long term. But using it as a temp I'd think is fine. Worst case is that it will melt and catch fire so just watch it.
832A-1C-S relay, it's good @ 12-24vdc control voltage, 105-127 across the relay, and is the same one used on GE controller boards, about $6 on FleaBay.
@@bluuedaniel current and voltage ratings are different! A low voltage relay may have issues interrupting higher voltages. This is an actual fire hazard due to the risk of arcing. Please do not do this! AC rated relays with a 12V coil are inexpensive
Why replace it with a linear compressor? Inverters are 30-40% more efficient. Are there issues with the inverter units that make them crap on a regular basis or something??
The linear compressors don't last so here's how to put a regular one in that should last much longer. I see LG linears go out after 2 years and I'm not shocked. We dont' typically do this but I have one that's been running in a garage with 100 degree summers now with a regular split phase in it for I'm guessing 5 years now and it's still going.
@@walterbaumy7124 Ah...so the issue is with the linear compressors themselves. Dammit. I'm moving to Belize next year and want an inverter fridge because electricity is 5-6x more expensive down there than it is in the states. Gonna hafta do a cost/benefit analysis of savings on electricity vs. cost of replacing the linear compressor. Thanks for the info!
I thaught the same to eliminate a ac wire to the controller on the back splice the wires to controller by the compressor to relay run relay from condense fan .supply I have one sitting in the yard 1200$ later still in warrentee fighting with lg . Will try this if can't resolve. . have a few compressors around am cert. Hvac retied .
The problem with your losing compressors is the fact, that your condensor coils are embedded in the drip pan. Your coils will sit in that water that is dispensed from your evaporator coils. This water will sit in that drip pan just eating away at your condensor coils. If there is water in the pan at the time when a hole deterioration occurs, then that water will be sucked in to the sealed system and destroy the whole cooling process including your compressor. Check the bottom of your condensor coils. Also check for an oily substance in that area. A small mirror can help you locate those faults. I am now going through this problem as my LG refrigerator went out. I replaced every sensor including the start relay and control board, only to find out from a technician that this was what he located on my LG refrigerator. He said LG has placed the condensor coils in such a position that they are always embedded in the drip pan. He also said that LG refrigerators are notorious for this particular problem. He recommended buying a whirlpool as they are built to eliminate this problem. I am still waiting for parts. LG has agreed to pay for parts and labor to repair my refrigerator as I told them that it was a factory defect. I have now been without a refrigerator for a month, but a family member loned us a refrigerator to put in the garage for now. Still waiting for parts and may receive them in about 10 days from LG so the tech can install them. Hope this helps ! 8/7/2020
I've worked on dozens of refrigerators and air conditioners with condenser coils in drip pans. i think I've only seen one with a leak there. all others have been in other locations or no issues at all. I do not fear condenser coils in water
@@jasonharrison25 Sub Zero's had a problem with them sucking water into the sealed systems when the freezers went into defrost. It was a completely different problem but in the world of appliances people can't keep their models straight and heard something from someone and believe it like it's gospel. It's stupid really, lots of rumors and myths and not understandings of things.
Hey Walter, so I’m looking to make my own version of those as I’ve only actually saw 2 of this in video and yours makes more sense. I understand everything you’re saying but you lose me at the relay part, why kind of relay are you using? Help?
I've since found these little gadgets for sale and it's the easy way of doing it. I'd probably use the 12v version. It's a neater way of doing it that I didn't know existed at the time. It's rated for 10 amps, if you could find a 16 or 30 amp that would be even better. This is the easier way.
Neat trick what happens when the user opens the door and close it in few seconds ? Fan turns off then works again before the compressor have time to rest so it draws alot of power and trips its overload protector . Not happy compressor operation You need to put a delay timer relay instead of a standard relay the trick might work but remember fans sometimes stops working even when temp inside the freezer didnt reach it's set temp due to ambient sensor that adjusts the way the fans behave . I use another way by installing my own design electronic circuit that controls a standard compressor properly .
@@theappliancetechnician Can u please give me your email so I send you my design also showing the circuit installed on a refrigerator and I ve done it on couple of customers and none of them called for a fault . I m an electronics engineer and I work with technicians that visit customers and repair refrigerators .
You must have read the schematic wrong or misunderstood. The evap fan stops running when the door is opened, not the condenser fan. That would be a bad idea to use that one. I used the condenser fan so there's no need for any delay to start the compressor. But I'd still like to see what you're doing with them.
using the ground as a neutral could cause an electrical shock to costumer when he touch the metal part of fridge and put wire going down into 1/2 pvc pipe
Hey Walt, great video but since your already such an expert what you take for granted i have hard time following, great story and all but could you give a lil more attention to the spec end of it?
Ok I installed www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPVV3OW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the problen is that the compressor drwa 5.4 amps and running at 86 degrees celcius at 25 celcius ambient temp. The 3 ways valve is still working but I guess keeping the compressor working wxtra time and using one cappilary tube at times an possibly creating an extra effort for the Com
@@carlosgraft7386 Not at all a good one, that's a commercial high torque I think is what it's called. But yeah, that's the same type I used in the video and said it was a terrible one to use, but it worked and is still running. So it works but a regular compressor would do better.
Our LG refrigerator failed so we finally found out that these units are junk after no repair person would work on them, so we were told there was this class action lawsuit and we needed to contact LG. LG customer service was a joke as they used a specific deterrence tactic to prevent LG from having to replace there poorly make refrigerators. They say their policy is that they will replace the unit after 3 documented work orders to fix it, so when you contact them after the third repair fails they just say they have not documentation of a third work order and continuously have to keep submitting work orders to have a repair person do the same repair that does not work! In the mean time, initially my family and I got very sick due to the high temps the refrigerator, we had to throw out all our food three times after the three repairs failed and now were have no refrigerator through the holidays!!!! This process has now exceeded two months and is not resolved! We will look into a lawsuit in our area as well.
That's a shame. Most people are getting taken care of by lg on them at least but scamson really knows how to give the run around and I kinda expect the same thing from them being they're both from the same part of the world. LG makes a solid refrigerator except for the compressors, well mostly. I'm sure there's a class action but you know how those end up. Lawyers make 3 trillion dollars and people get a coupon for 40% off their next pack of ground beef to make up for spoiled food. (Not valid on any days name that ends in y and it has to be grain feed organic beef processed in Crymatia with plastic tools, and no cow can be killed to provide said beef)
The inverter on this refrigerator will send over 240v to the compressor. If the replacement compressor isn’t rated for that much voltage it will fail. Linear compressors don’t always run on 110v. The inverter steps up or down the voltage to them.
You're mistaken, Its not rated at 240v, it's 115v-127v here is link to the specs sheet pdf, page 15 (27 top right) for all LG Linear Compressors www.frigochem.com/pdf/Refrigerator_Compressor_151207.pdf Code FC75LBNA stands for F=Linear C=Gen code 75=capacity L=134a, B= Improvement Order, N (Voltage)= 115-127V 50/60Hz, A = Motor Control. LG purposely mislabeled their compressors!
I am not the one that is mistaken. The FC75LBNA has an inverter that generates 300v. The way to correctly diagnose this compressor, or any compressor, is to first make sure that it has sufficient voltage to operate properly. When in test mode you should have at least 200v at con202 within the first 30 seconds of plugging the unit into the home electrical 110v receptical. This will verify that the 110v compressor has sufficient voltage of 200v in a forced start mode. If you do not have the 200v with in 30 seconds of plugging it in to the home electrical 110vac receptical then your compressor does not have enough voltage to operate properly. The problem is in the board and not the compressor. Line voltage is shown on the nomenclature. Line voltage to this refrigerator is 110v. The inverter generates 300v plus. Below is the link that will explain how to properly diagnose this compressor and other components on this model. Page 62 will give you step by step instructions on how to check the voltage to compressor, and where to make the voltage checks. www.uncleharrywizard.com/nephewclub/wizardfrig/lg/lmx28994st-lg-refrigerator.pdf
Walter Baumy I did watch the video and that’s why I commented. It’s obvious that you don’t know much about this linear compressor and the inverter. I can understand why that is. You are too busy trying to appear smart by telling others what they need to do, when in fact, you don’t know a thing. You won’t ever learn much of anything either. At least not from me.
@@ljslw Uncle harry's ??! HAHAHA! I put the block toys and backyard homemade electrical box puller tools down when I was about 10. You've completely missed the point of the video and are only making yourself look like an ass by arguing your completely off topic point. But linking uncle harry's and looking like an ass is one in the same. Ask any of their "graduates". So yes, if you're associated with them just go back to reading the puppy that lost it's way by B Madison. All you need to diagnose an lg linear compressor is a tap valve or 2, like all sealed system problems.
I’m sorry I mean do you have a service company because my Kenmore fridge is stopped working so I am trying looking for some one can do the job like you
New new new comment: I found on my Frigidaire project to bring the compr. over from 220 to 110 that a plain old 12volt phone charger is adequate which has 1 and 1/2 amps rating I don't know what happened to the other relay I used to but I harvested another Auto relay and it's working fine compressor cool usual heat up real a very minor heat about it.. and I tapped into the 110 volt fan which is different than LG to get the source for the charger /voltage converter .
I'm lost. I have no idea what you're talking about but if you're running a compressor relay on a phone charger it's going to stay on all the time and I'd expect it to burn up.
