Replacing Audi control arms Audi Upper control arm replacement How to replace Q5 front control arms This is the kit that I bought: www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Nice video. $4000 is outrageous. 8:09 It's probably easier to leave the upper control arms bolted to the strut brace so they can be replaced one at a time and the bolt position can be aligned against the other control arm. Otherwise they have to be tightened with the suspension "unloaded" (tires on the ground position). 10:26 There's quite a bit of shine on the lip at the edge of the brake rotor. Check the thickness against the specs and monitor. 14:26 Next time, you an inert anti-seize with a ceramic base.
Black Graphite grease is good as it doesn't dry out like copper slip, also it's good to measure the distance between Hub centre and the top of the wheel arch to make a note of the normal ride height, then jack her up to the that measurement before tourquing the bolts up that way the rubber bushings will last. 😊👍
Tip: when taking pinch pins out, raise the lower control arm up to where the vehicle would actually sit with weight. Makes it easier to get upper control arms out
do you think, insert small wedges into the slits on that upper arm pinch bolt, would have potentially aligned the bore and allowed the bolts to move freely? just a thought that if the bores on opposite sides of the slit were not in alignment due to the movement of them from spring force or distortion? Also, because I don't have that bolt in hand, I am assuming that the stepped up diameters, are concentric and not like a cam where the bolt would be rotated to lock the arm pins. BTW mine is a 2012 Q5 2.0.
One of my upper control arms is not flush with the knuckle, is it designed like that by factory. I have seen all other Q7 and Q5 and they are flush on both sides
Hello ✋🏻, i need your advise please. My ride is Audi A4 2006 2.0L ... I had a complete set of control arms replaced today (total 10pcs), and being aligned afterwards, but unfortunately i experienced a very stiff steering wheel. Any clue ?
Just the ideea a service doesn't know from the beggining there are 2 upper control arms each side, will make me know how much knowledge they have. Try Lemforder or Meyle, there are OEM quality, but half price.
And you had it easy my friend. The pinch bolt on my 2003 Passat from Pennsylvania, which was original from the factory, had to be drilled out. I am still working on the other side.
Wheel lugs flex under duress. Wheels nuts that are over-tightened or not tightened in the proper sequence can cause uneven tightening against the hub surface of the rotor. This is most often caused by mechanics who tighten lug nuts improperly using a pneumatic gun without the use of a torque stick or a do-it-yourself mechanic tightening them out of sequence with a lug wrench. Because one or more of the wheel nuts is not as tight as the other(s), the particular tightening balance off-centers the rotor. Once a rotor warps, it is difficult to undo.
Great tutorial, I’m about tackle my Porsche Macan which has exactly the same upper control arm setup. I’m curious though, you did not mention why you changed it to control arms. Was it because of excessive movement or noise? On mine I can see that the bushings are torn and my suspension is making a squeaking sound. Thanks
@@OakHollowGarage Yeah, that is why I'm getting a torch, pickle forks/ball bearing pullers, beer and a lot of extra time so I'm not pressured or rushed to get both sides done in an afternoon. Thanks again.
Very few of these guys use something to spread the pinch a bit. It lets the ball joint come out of the knuckle so much easier. Slip an allen in there and give it a quarter turn - that's all you need.
They didn't think you would accept $2k for the repair and were hoping you declined it so when you said go ahead and do it they didn't actually want to do the job so said you needed to do both sides for $4k. The price they gave you was because they didn't want to do the job as it can be a bit of a pain. Unfortunately many garages do this with work they don't want to do as it stops them having to do work they would rather not carry out, or if the customer still accepts the high price then the garage earn a large amount of money
Pinch bolt removal is key feature on this replacement.(But missing here)...and you can use hammer drill or riviter when you remove upper arm ball joint..your tool will damage rubber boot and swing arm..
Any advice for front left and right lower rearward control arm replacement? Local euro center quoted me 1k for one side. I'm wondering if its almost the same process
A more effective/easier method of removing a stuck and seized in pinch bolt is to snap off/cut off the HEAD of the bolt to then PULL the bolt out from the threaded side using a specific, and very expensive, pulling tool.........but I prefer to use some threaded bar, a long connecting nut and a short length of square metal box section, costing approximately £20👍
Audi quoted me today just to replace the lower control arm bushings $2,200 for the front on both sides. These shop prices are insane ! On rockauto the bushings are $3-6 each .
my local audi dealer raised their hourly rate to $166, their multi check inspection and oil change, set me back over $600, at that time, they said I needed a new water pump and quoted me $1250, previously last year, a brake job was quoted at $1500+. I did the brakes for $500 and waterpump with full aluminum Graf pump for $300. Other work I have done is replaced the sliding head liner, that cost me $120 only because I had to order the part again after making a mess of the first one. I read about this repair and saw $1000 cost estimates.
I just ordered the full set of control arms from FCP Euro for $600! They are better than OEM. Not having a hoist is a huge pain in the ass. You need to Jack the car up as high as possible. I'm almost finished with the drivers side. Pinch bolt was not too difficult for me to remove. I'm having a really hard time getting the lower rear ball joint out though.
@brettneuberger6466 I still can't get the ball joint loose! Just bought a torch and hopefully the heat will work! This is a California car. No rust or salt. All the videos I watch people have no problem removing it. Fingers crossed!
You have a fresh suspension with a clean bolt in the video. And yet you still had a hard time knocking it out. Better show a video where you need to break the head of a soured bolt, and then pull the rod out with a nut and gaskets. And do not break the aluminum ears of the steering knuckle.This is a long jewelry work
Where the hell do you live and who is this shop? I just got quoted $1000 to do all 4 upper control arms FROM THE AUDI DEALER (2023). and Lug BOLTS, not nuts :)
Oak Hollow: +1 on what ratspam says, plus some other comments of mine below. 2006 B7 A4 2.0T 230 k miles. Daily driver. Owned since 2016. -The front suspension set up on the A4 is very-very similar to the Q5. Pinch bolts - Yikes! -I broke the pinch bolt tab on one of the knuckles and had to replace that too. -I noticed that the replacement pinch bolt (Audi OE) I was shipped is an upgraded design and no longer has shoulders. It is a straight shank. I was surprised to see shoulders on the replacement bolts you installed. -I'm convinced bimetallic corrosion results in that white powder, mostly aluminium oxide-I guess, and that is what wedges against the pinch bolt shoulder making it nearly impossible to get out. -I routinely remove the pinch bolts now, re-apply anti-seize, and reinstall them. No stuck bolts since installing the straight shank bolts. BTW- you are a pretty darn good mechanic, and I'm glad to see you tackled and prevailed over one of the most difficult tasks there is with these Audi's. Keep it up! And yes, what Audi wants for $ervice these days is obscene. All the best and thanks for the video, Hayabusafalcon....
Sorry but the garage was trying to rip you off with the euro-tax. For $240 (4upper/4 lowers/2 ball joints/2 sway bar end links,/ and 2 oem pinch bolts) , you can do the front pass and drivers side in 4 hrs taking your time. Just whip out the pbblaster and map gas for the upper pinch bolt if in the rust belt and if you have air/strong 18v/20v/24v 1/2 impact gun, it'll be even quicker. This is why I fix my own car, garage are looking to rip you off, the owner wants a new jetski, you're paying for it, the kids private school tuition is due, you're paying for it. So buy parts yourself, buy tools, learn how to do it, and in the end, you've learned how to fix your car, you have tools forever, and you saved $at least $3500, well worth getting dirty and mad for $3500 savings.
@@OakHollowGarage They (Audi dealership) simply do not want to work on your car. The "Service" dept. is just there to ready new vehicles for the showroom/customer delivery. Yew-no way we work on that dusty thing!" Hahaha....
