Restoring a 120 Year Old Door 

True, most people now use brad nails too much lol, back to basics

Exactly! It's a lower part and with a brushing/sanding it's gonna look great.

Literally stronger. Wood glue is stronger than lignin.

It did but seeing her use a roller really made me cringe. I wish she had used a brush instead. It could have got into the crevices to make the door look more finished.

The grain on the repair doesn't match the old growth grain on the door. That's was the point she was making I believe.

That's the best idea. You never know how reclaimed wood turns out

Very true, works for bleach as well! :D

That works on oven cleaner and most all purpose cleaners, to break up baked on grease.

Even though I dont have a diagnosis like that, I have ADD and I can absolutely understand you! I have seen such wonderful, interesting crafting videos that were ruined by keeping the building sounds in, saying they preferred to "keep it natural" and it always makes me really sad

It can't be that old. I mean 120 years and only 4 layers of paint? Impossible!

@@CockroachSlidy yep clearly not that old. Looks like 1930's craft.

Hmm I met a Scottish couple who also restored a stone building with walls about 18" thick. They took years to do it. I met them in Honolulu where they moved to be near their daughter.

This was a 50s, probably east germany made door handle ... an abomination ...

The door handle doesn't look 150 years old.

Looks deco to me

@@ralphturner3798 Yes, that handle with the bakelite part is something about 1930-1950. Although I'm not from Germany, but from a neighboring country Czechia, so these handles were on every door of my grandma's flat. "Her" block of flats was build 1949.

1 ❤️ Hermosa eleccion baby-girls.id/AGNEZ de mejor 2 ( elecciones ) 9.5/10 3 ( culturales ) 9.3/10 Son unos de los mejores conciertos. .

Andrew, есть специальные составы для искуственного состаривания дерева. Главное грамотно подбирать в каждом конкретном случае. Это приходит с опытом. Удачи.

I know that some varieties of wood can be artificially aged using various techniques. That's the only way to get a closer match (that and careful matching using stains).

What would happen if one treated the new wood with coffee or tea to darken it up, I wonder.

@@darenallisonyoung8568 That is one of the techniques that can be used.

It's not a time period / stylistic issue, it's the fact that it is a "paint-grade" door. It looks better painted. Not a bad idea to strip it, though the existing finish didn't look bad at all, and then repaint. I think the cream was a nice color but any would do.

yeh i dont wanna be too negative but stripping this door of color is no restoration work, its a perversion. and frankly, same goes for knocking down the walls in the first floor.

@@retiredarchitect3462 You said what I was thinking. Beautiful doors but in the end it will look best painted. The experiment was worth trying, especially in making bold decisions as a right of first house ownership. I made this exact experiment and discovery renovating my first old house in Brisbane in 1985. Thanks for the great video Laura,

I’m not sure the house is in the right period or location, but in some places, bare wood was considered a sign that you didn’t have enough money to have things painted. This applies to a lot of furniture too.

As a former restaurateur of old furniture I have to add she seems to lack knowledge of what she is doing. From a professional standpoint the door is now ruined. Wax/oil it and it’s gone forever, you never get that stuff out from the wood again. Also the shown craftsmanship isn’t up to that what is state of the art in 2022. As already said it’s softwood, probably pine. If you want that shiny use 1 or 2 layers of shellac, but it’s not meant to be unpainted. She should have used some kind of solvent paint. IMHO she should go and get some professional advice before she “saves” more of this old house. I have seen many enthusiastic people wo meant it always good but the outcome was terrible because of the lack of knowledge. Sorry to add that harsh statement but as sad it is, it’s true,

That was part of the reason why I sent ours away to be acid dipped, I left it to the professionals to manage the health risks.

Yep, I was going to make the lead paint point . . . and that goes for the whole house during demolition. Dose makes the poison in the case of lead so do limit you exposure by testing, masking, and proper clean up and disposal as needed.

Lead paint isn't used in germany since 1921 (at least indoors)

@@TheFusselmonster damn - our house was built 1918 (I think)

@@tonysutton6559 they can be sanded by a professional. Very cheap compared to doing it urself. A couple of years ago 35 euros a door !

Agreed. Glue it and screw it or nail it together. The crack adds more character.

I am so surprised she did not use a testing kit or a mask.

@@redorzed That’s why she did it outside and even commented on it. There was footage of her wearing a mask too

My sister, who also lives in Germany (hesse), has the same ‘hand brake’.

I agree. That plank was likely added later.

*too large door opening most likely either by misunderstanding or measuring error. The stiles simply weren't trimmed, a door of this type was traditionally made with a little longer stiles , and it would sometimes be then trimmed later. So, the carpenter probably left the longer stiles and simply bridged the gap with a pair of thin boards to match the tall door opening. This was IMO a modest family home, and things like these likely weren't fussed about much.

I think it looked pretty painted the color it was. I probably would have stripped the paint, then painted it. It would take less time to strip, since you would only need to remove most of the paint and sand. The problem now, is that there is a ton of other woodwork, like doorframes, and molding and baseboard that would need to be removed and stripped, since they should all match.

Dipping is absolutely the way to go - it's amazing how clean the end result is. Just have to make sure you check which compound they are going to use - you hear stories about 'brown ooze' coming out of the wood weeks after they come back from being dipped.

Inflatable shims are great! Also, when I need to carry a heavy anything down a stairway I use the webbed strapping used to tie down kayaks (I always have those on hand because I have 5 kayaks..). For a door, I'd use a 20 ft strap, wrap it twice around the middle (horizontal) at both ends of the door. The buckle allows you to tighten it very well. Gives you something to grip. Can connect them with another strap (vertical) if you're worried about them sliding off the ends - though if you tighten them well enough, they won't. But a cross strap can bring peace of mind. Just make sure to pad where the buckles land. Seems like a lot of bother, but as I've gotten older I've learned that brute force isn't fully necessary.