Roland JP-8000 Repair No / Low Audio Output 

Thanks for watching Steve!

Good morning Brad. Can you send me the link to the actual capacitors to purchase for this unit or the actual model numbers@@bradthx

Cool - how much was it, and when was that?

Hey, I know this was a while ago, but I’m using mouser to get same parts , does the milliamperes matter, which ma did you pick

@@smacktreats So volts matter to be sure, so where it says 16V go with 16 volts etc. etc. and of course the same for uf. uF refers to the size of the capacitor It means microfarads follow this parts list type if not brand, exactly : 19 Panasonic 10 uf 16V type FC SMD caps, 1 Panasonic 22 uf 16V type FC SMD cap and one Panasonic 100 uf, 6.3V Type FC SMD cap. All were as suggested, 105c max temperature.

Thanks for that, my does t actually have any bad capacitors, but it is getting old and thought be a good idea to change them before any leakage etc, mine does seem to have a buggy firmware than seems to degrade over time though

ty for listing the caps needed just recieved them did you happen to replace the caps on the jack board or have a list of those tyia

Good question. I really wanted a D50 due to it having one more octave however these digital modelers are pretty nice without the higher price of a Moog, etc.

Homelan Kuro is the transformer the same? Curious if you can move the taps as well.

does 8080 have the same issue??

That is the correct series that I used. I order a lot of parts and don't remember specific values, once you open the synth the caps are labeled with the appropriate values and voltages making them easy to find with Digikey's parametric search. There were three of four different values needed.

Hey Ronnie, the JP-8080 uses a smaller switching power supply, it does not have the transformer taps you see on the JP-8000 and many other Roland synths of this era. But the good news is I don't believe it needs a voltage conversion as as result, it should work on any region voltage from 100V to 240V. The label on the bottom should state this.

@@bradthx Thanks for the info! also great video, I never knew those polymer capacitors would go bad. Normally the tantylum caps in the older analog gear are the first to go. Great video.

Assume all the electrolytic caps need replacing.

On my jp 8000 midi also didn`t work. I ordered new midi jacks for the jp8000 over thomann. They ordered directly from roland. A friend of mine changed them and now all works fine again!

It's easy enough to do yourself if you can do basic soldering. Or find someone local who can reliably fix electronics, phones, laptops etc. 👍

You can buy the knobs from electrical parts suppliers.

Replace the caps with ones of the same values - it's marked on them. You can get them from any electrical component suppliers.

I opened the synth but I don't know what I am looking for in terms of the value of the caps. thanks again.

19 EEEFC1C100R CAP, 10µF, 16V 1 EEEFC1C220R CAP, 22µF, 16V 1 EEEFC0J101AP CAP, 100µF, 6.3V

@@koolamplification6442 That was very convenient. Thank you.

@@koolamplification6442 Thanks!

So you think it is in good condition? Sounds like a lot of issues…

They are easily available, just search for JP-8000 service manual and you will find it. Ignore the sites that want you to pay for it. Thanks for watching!

@@bradthx well I got it...cheap, and it has the exact problem you show in this video. My dad did what you do now, but he repaired t.v., vcr's, stereos, amps etc. I got the plans and just gotta order parts

@@old_romans - How'd it go?

@@NeuronalAxon good so far, not done though, it's slow going because adulting, still have half this board and the other board to do. The virus is creating some more time to do these sorts of things at least.

@@old_romans - Best of luck with it - keep us posted. 👍

Replace with ones of the same marked value. You have to remove them to check them.

The same thing happened with mine, when replacing the capacitors, the audio outputs started working again, only after a few hours it starts to distort the output, follow the audio path and I saw that from the IC22 input the signal was already is distorted

@@LeandroSantos-jv4ex helloyes I have replaced this chip but still nothing. the signals come from a chip from Roland. hard to say why he does that...no data sheet. The capacitor that we accuse in general makes it possible to limit the audio power by pinching a transistor... (we play on the constants of charges and discharges... in short). have you tested your entire amplifier chain? I did but unfortunately not the culprit. sometimes the flow of capacitors is not nice for electrical tracks

@@sebastiencompagnone229 Hello, you said you changed the DAC and still had the problem?

@@LeandroSantos-jv4ex Hello, Yes that's right. The component is from China may be a bad component...I will recommend a DAC...

@@sebastiencompagnone229 I had a different experience these last few days, I removed the battery and put it back on the keyboard, then the phrase "Memory damaged" appeared on the display so I did the factory reset and calibrated the pith bend and ribbon and it's been two weeks without the no noise before in less than 10 minutes, turned on, it was a problem. I just saw a report on the internet that some paths might sound distorted when the battery is low, so I thought that when I opened it up and took it apart, something might have corrupted the sound memory, well, that fixed it for me.

It's usually specced as 220-240V in Europe AFAIK.

I’ve found the error. 😁 on removing one of the Caps unknown to me a track had lifted and broken from C86 to C85. I checked through the board layout for every Cap I’d replaced, every connection and found here where there was supposed to be direct connection it was open circuit. I put an outboard connection on and it now powers up correctly.

Same as the originals.

You are correct Matsushita is the founder of Panasonic. I think Roland has a lot of fabrication done by them, in the 90's anyway. Everything today is well, you know.

@@Maschinestorm China? Eh... Apart from some very hi-tech stuff like photography and CPUs where they don't want to risk industrial espionage. Like that famous one that lead to the capacitor plague. I remember I've seen that [M] also on the DC motors inside AKAI tape deck.

No they are different values. It writes on them or in the service manual/schematic drawing.

I run a Los Angeles based repair shop, Astani Audio if you would like us to take a look

From memory, most of the cable housings have little tabs on the sides that need to be lifted before removing the ribbons. I think there are one or two that just lift out tho if they do not have the tabs