Good idea. Bruce's system is not repeatable. It's not even close to being rigid. I knew better but thought I would try it anyway. Took months to get, kept sending him messages. Finally got it, but no matter how closely I get the bar parallel with the column, I get results anywhere from 5 to 50 thousandths after raising or lowering it. It's rather pointless without repeatability.
Convinient solution! Something to think about when i reassemble my Mill I’ve just started the restore project, So should be up and running about februari
Very creative solution. I enjoyed the thought process and admired your determination to get the job done! Working with those inch plates would not have been easy, but the result looks like it's very much worth it. Cheers! Craig
Did my alignment system on round mill with a laser and level line on the apposing wall 15ft away. Gets the alignment within .001 of previous alignment before move. If i need more accurately set up of .000, then i use mirror on apposing wall and back across the room the laser dot goes. Multiplayer of accuracy, over and back...
You could also use a dial indicator and mag base attached to a hard stop. Attach mag base with a 0-.2" dial indicator mounted slightly past the hard stop and lower quill and position the indicator until needle moves to about .1 or thereabouts and zero the indicator. lock mag base, then unlock mill head and move and raise/lower mill head as needed. Then re-position mill head against dial indicator until it hits the hard stop, then lock down the head. You should have the same reference if done correctly like I mentioned. No need to build a bunch of stuff. But good video otherwise. Thanks.
Hi just a thought, is it not possible to drill both the column and the casting at verity’s points down the column this could then have a spring loaded steel pin that realigns the mill back to the zero position.👍👴🏻
Another possible solution is to use an alignment locking system, and do not lock the head at all. Then it will not seize. I have made such a system, and it keeps it to a couple of thou across the vertical movement. If you still need to lock the head (heavy milling) then have a different lock- say a clamping sleeve below the head.
Thanks for your input! If I understand correctly, in order to use the laser pointer method you really need to point it at a wall that has a perfectly vertical line scribed on it. And the column of your mill must be perfectly plumb. Am I right? I couldn't meet either of those conditions in my shop, so I came up with this instead. Thanks
I've read of people using that method, pointed at a perfectly vertical line on a wall some distance away. That won't work for me because my mill is on big casters. The slightest movement on the casters, even due to vibration, would throw off the alignment of the laser pointer. But you're right that can be great for some folks.
what advantage does a round column mill have then? i just bought one! because i didn't want the type where the column tilts side to side because i heard that was a hassle to get perfectly vertical again. how does rotating the head either way benefit a milling project? i'm a novice.
A round column mill's only advantage is their small size. That makes them affordable to make and to some degree portable. A full on knee mill costs a lot more money, and is much more difficult to transport from place to place. In my case my shop is in my basement. So a knee mill is just out of the question.
@@TheBuildist i could have bought several FIXED SQUARE column mini mills- but i bought the smallest JET brand mill. but what feature/ advantage can the rotating head in the round column mills provide?
I've been using it routinely for 6 months or so. It seems to work as expected. A little patience is necessary on the final step, bumping the head back and forth trying to zero it out. But it's not too bad.
@@TheBuildist Your reference pin and the clamps that hold it are strong enough that you could probably add a threaded section (think kind of like a turnbuckle, but with a large knurled knob for tool-less use) that could push pull the head in to alignment with micrometer ease. I think the teardrop shaped holes in the thin wall aluminium might be the weak link though - perhaps bore and sleeve that with a brass bushing instead?
Interesting, but why did you arrange to just measure it- why not have a follower that keeps it aligned as it moves? That is what I did on my round column mill and it works just fine. Also, you did not show the fitting of the column brackets- I had to extend my column at the top to get enough vertical movement- did you?
I mentioned at the beginning, my mill head sticks in place once you lock it, and the only way to free it up is to swing the head side to side. So if I prevent it swinging, then I can't change its height. And I didn't have to extend the column. With the brackets in place I still have adequate Z space to do everything I've needed to do. Thanks for your thoughtful questions!
@@TheBuildist Ahh, sorry, should have paid more attention ( I watched it in two parts). Mine is quite a different model. Interesting how many different versions there are... Mine clamps at the back of the column, it looks like yours clamps at the front. Not sure why that makes it stick...
@@TheBuildist is your mill variable speed? I have a twenty year old Acra that I bought new. It looks the same as every other brand. Some of the parts on your mill -- drill look like they was built to a higher standard. By any chance was it built in Taiwan? Almost forgot I am glad that I found your channel. You have some interesting ideas. So I'm subscribing.
@@andyZ3500s It is variable speed, using a standard Reeves drive. It was sold as an "Enco 508vs" which my research tells me is a Taiwan made RongFu 31. And thanks for the subscribe!
