"Don't let them see you take it" when you steal the kids play doh. That is hilarious. You have so many good points in this series and I really appreciate you sharing them. I know it is older but I am just watching it now and I am thankful you went through the work to put the rifle build series together. Thank you.
As a machinist we commonly deal with stress in metal when you start removing metal in the machining process it releases the stress and things dont always remain straight stress relieving the metal helps but doesnt completely eliminate it
Ive bedded quite a few rails over the past few years. I can see a few pros and cons to doing it. One pro is a greater surface area for the clamping action from the tightened screws and another is to cancel out any machining tolerance difference between the base and action. The only Con I can think of though is that if the base itself isn't perfectly straight then you are just making the bend permanent while installed on the action. I've seen a few that had a bow when off the action but straightened to a degree(+/-) when installed on the action and torqued down. I usually send the ones with bows back though. To check it: If you don't have a mill and indicator a straight edge and bright light will tell you the same thing.
excellent series Vaughn Precision,your clear commentary and confident hands on workmanship is great to watch.Being a savage owner also who appreciates their product many will gain from your knowledge.You obviously appreciate the 'out of the box' Savage's,and simply enjoy making a great product greater.All the best from 'down under'.
When I've discovered a one-piece base with rearward clearance, as your example illustrated, I came to the conclusion that either there are machining tolerances (nominal 0.002") present, and/or the action has warped a minute amount due to heavy barrels being floated from the factory. Depending on how the rifle is stored in a warehouse-transit-to-dealership....its very possible for Savage's bull barrel models to warp their action a few thousands of an inch. In my time of discovery on bases that revealed gaps (Remington, Winchester, Weatherby)...I've taken one of two approaches- Either use a bedding compound as you performed, or take some sand paper, holding the paper on the receiver's ring..then work the base back and forth, paying attention to keeping the bottom of the base flush to the receiver ring while working it back and forth. About 30 seconds of this option can bring the same (nearly) results. Thanks again for sharing -AllTheBest
Thx for the info, I hate my rail as it is right now on my Savage FLCP-SR with a lost of 10 Mils of adjustment just to zero at 100 metres. Out of 20 Mils of total elevation losing 1/2 of it just to make a 100 meters zero feels stupid. I will order mine today a replace the parallel picatinny one that came with that rifle. Keep them coming, very good video. Ralph
The gap is due to manufacturing tolerances. Nothing can be machined to match exactly in mass production. Bedding the scope mount is meant to compensate for the clearance so that the mount rail is not bent convex ed. (bowed upward) and torquing the scope tube. @ 2 miles an ill fitting rail can mean missing every shot.
@@vaughnprecision I thank you. I'll check them out. I'm damn near to the point I'm going to machine my own. lol! Great vids, by the way! Great channel.
@@vaughnprecision I just mounted a scope using EGW rail and rings. They seem very precise and fit with minimal play. I'll be using them for more rifles.
Thank you, Sir! Your videos are always informative and enjoyable. You seem like a No BS / Salt of the earth - kinda guy , and I truely appriciate that !! Thank you for sharing. Respect, from Denmark !
What is your opinion on lapping scope rings? Another option to playdoh is plumbers putty. It won't dry out like playdoh does. one little tub will do LOTS of action beddings. Great video. EDIT: I just found Pt. 13 of the series! Again, great series!
I'm from Montreal in Quebec the difference in the savage front and rear receiver could be the polishing to remove tools scratches at the factory they might do this separately without tacking care of their heights it's only a possibility I'm not a expert don't stop your educative lessons ...
I was thinking kind of the same thing but use 2-3" screws or threaded rod and have a long nut of sorts with the same taper as the screwheads on the bottom. With screw in holes, finger tighten the nut down against the rail. Easier than using the short rail mounting screws.
Honest question: If the gap is really small like one or two thousandths is thiseven necessary? Tiny misalignments between the scope rings that results can be corrected by lapping the rings before fastening the scope... right??
I really have enjoyed watching your build videos but in all of my years of shooting competition and hunting with precision rifles, I've never heard of anyone glass bedding their scope bases. Maybe it's because the Weaver is a $40.00 part, I don't know? For the last several years we only use Ken Farrell's rings and bases. While they are very expensive, they fit flawlessly and hold our Night Force scopes securely.
Peter Kolovos I figured out its the inconsistency of the outside diameter of the action. I've also used some very expensive rails but had seems the same issue. This might not hold true with a custom action like Shilen offers.
Savage is known as an ugly cheaper gun. BUT, they may have the best barrel of any production rifle out there ! Great Barrels! And of course the barrel is the heart of the rifle..
Love your videos. Just also became a Savage guy. They were offering a 100.00 rebate on a 11, 6.5 creed, couldn't pass it up. Too bad it had the bottom bolt release. Just a suggestion, have you thought about using a threaded rod to locate the rail on top of the receiver??
Covid times, just purchased a 110 storm SS "ACCU everything" except the barrel is just touching at the end of the stock, can clearly see the rifle wasn't put together properly as there is clearance galore on the other side...any advise? Love the candid straight forward video's...this was my "moose'r" for Northern Ontario....
That release agent looks like polyvinyl alcohol. If it is, it is water soluble and you will be able to just rinse it off with water. Check the MSDS and look for pva as an ingredient.
there are several guys bedding their actions to the stock with J-B weld, some say this will allow moisture to seep in, not sure, others say play dough is 70 % salt and will also cause corrosion, this i believe, plumbers putty or modeling clay is cheap and available everywhere... i will stick to the modeling clay
Wayne Hartneck I’ve used both and never had any issues. I was out of clay when doing this job so play dough works. I now have a ton of clay back on the shelf so the next few builds I’ll be using that. It cleans up nicer to. I’ve heard of folks using JB, I’ve never tried it. Acra Glass is good and not that expensive so I stick with it and it always turns out a good finish.!
Too bad you didn't have a surface plate to lay the base on to see if it is perfectly flat itself. I bedded a base just like you just did on my Weatherby. I was later helping a friend mount a base on his 700 and by that time I had obtained a granite surface plate. His base wasn't sitting perfectly flat on the action either. Before bedding it we checked it on my surface plate and the base itself wasn't flat. My guess is there's stress in the base material. When it's machined its clamped tight in a vice and machined to size and is perfectly flat. When it's unclamped the stress in the metal springs the base a tad bit. I may be wrong but that's my guess on why the base isn't flat.
If you put a true straightedge across the top of “most” actions you’ll find gaps. This can be caused by machining or polishing. Rails can also become slightly less straight so adding a small amount of bedding fills in those minor gaps and creates less stress on the rail when it’s torqued down. It’s not necessary unless the gaps are extreme but I do this to all my rifles.
Hello and Kudos for a well informed Video. I just wanted to make a comment about why you do have a slight gap wear the bottom of the rail makes contact with the top of the receiver> It all has to do with machining and manufacturing tolerances. No two pieces are exactly the same when manufactured. As long as they are within the manufactures tolerances they (the manufacturer)will pass them and release them for sale. Now imagine that the receivers radius is.0005 - .001 difference than the underside of the rail which also has manufacturing tolerances varying say + -.005 you will get an accumulative error of sat .0025- .003. This will account for the gap that you are experiencing. Mind you a piece of paper is .003 in thickness which is not very much but the accumulative error from receiver top to the underside of the rail mount will account for the gap that you are experiencing on your receiver. You see it all has to do with the manufactures production tolerances. It may be controlled better if the rail and the receiver were made by the same com[any and not just jobbed out to a third party supplier. Yes some suppliers hold there parts to a very high degree of quality control, but you still have slight variances due to a number of small issiues . However if said parts are within the acceptable tolerance levels(usually + -.005) all is good. The problem is to shrink those tolerances and make an extremely well fitting mating part s. The rub is that for this level of say hand lapping and fitting of said parts will increase the costs dramatically. This is something that suppliers just cant afford to perform. So with a little bit of time and energy you the end user have made a one off custom fitting part, which has been produced to rectify manufacturing tolerance variations. It is indeed a labor of love, and one that you will be able to enjoy the fruits of your labor! Hope this explains why you have a slight gap between the rail and the receiver.
@@vaughnprecision i never beded my savage BT competition target model and it shoots 1/4 moa or better with a cheap bushnell nitro 6-24 and 52 gr Amax handloads
@@vaughnprecision I have the same base on my model 11, and it looked to me like that little extension would interfere with the bolt when it was rotated. I will have to try it and see.
