Save Money & Resin by Hollowing 3D Prints | Chitubox Basic Tutorial 

So it's been a year, can you still recommend 3.5 mm? Or it's not enough? Maybe we should go with 5 or 6 millimeters?

wow no reason to be a dickbag about it

​@@barulicksama38383.5mm makes me think that he is not adding enough drainage and has uncured resin trapped and the off gas is bursting the print.

@@barulicksama3838 3.5 is absolutely unnecessarily thick. 5 or 6 is just crazy. If you're printing out some small figures or something, I usually got anywhere between 1.8 - 3. The bigger the model, the thicker you'll want it to be. His print exploding 6 months later has nothing to do with the thickness, that's just improper cleaning of the interior. When there's residual resin left on the inside, it will degrade the resin. And if you seal the holes, it'll build up pressure from the uncured resin chemically eating at the cured resin. I 3D print for a living as well, and unless you're printing something huge, like on a Phrozen Mega 8K or Jupter or M3, there's no need to make your walls that thick.

Thanks so much! That is truly my goal to make anyone understand what I’m teaching. Thank you for your comment.

That’s great. Congratulations on the printer. Best of luck on your future prints!

Thanks so much!!!

I’m so glad you found out. Now you can print more!!

Well least you know now. 🤣

Chitubox is great for hallowing. But it’s just for SLA printing. But you can hallow and then export a STL which is nice. It would be nice if it did what your wanting.

Microsoft 3D Builder can hollow models and then save them in pretty much any format needed. I use FlashDLPrint as my slicer for my Flashforge 9.25" 6k printer and hollow using 3D builder. It's also fantastic for kit bashing multiple models together.

Honestly never had that issue. You would probably have to use a 3D software like blender. None of the slicers do that.

Yeah I use to have that same problem. I find it helps you match your holes up and that way you have holes in the bottom of your model as well to allow the model to not be pressurized. Hope that makes sense.

Get a tiny pin drill and find a spot nobody will notice and make a tiny hole. This will let gas escape.

Yeah I use lychee sometimes and I find they are both great for different reasons. If only we could combine them 😅

@@ItsMeaDMaDe im using a LD-002H with siraya tech fast resin navy grey and my normal exposure is 1.5s perfect exposure and bottom layer @ 20s and i end up with bottom splits what am i doing wrong?

@@MMQsTacosConLimons Lift speed is probably too high and the suction force is separating the layers. Also depending on what exposure test you're running "perfect" exposure for layers can be elusive. Example if my perfect exposure per layer is 2.8 seconds often I will have a partial fail or split in the print. However if I add 0.10 seconds to that exposure time the problem is solved and aside from improper supports models will successfully print all the live long day. So I would start by lowering the lift speed to give it time to release from the FEP and if the problem persists I would bump up the layer exposure time.