saw adjustment - Mastercraft compound mitre saw 

How did you actually adjust the mitre angle... you show the table moving but you don't show how you made it move

ADJUSTING FENCE SQUARENESS: Put the table in the 0 degree position and secure it. Loosen the four fence locking bolts, set a square against the fence and the blade, move the fence until squareness achieved, tighten the four fence locking bolts. Do a test cut to confirm.

Thanks, the neighbor has one of these master crap saws that is out of adjustment bad. I'd try adjusting the fence though to make the blade 90 degrees to the fence. What you did does not allow you to click it into place and it will be such a pain to use.

Thanks so much for this video it was the most helpful one I watched on YT. Appreciate it!

I have the same question as Lucky Pierre about at 1:30 seconds...(How did you actually adjust the mitre angle... ) and I read your answer but I still don't know HOW to physically adjust it. You say 'adjusting the table to find the right angle' but how do you 'adjust the table'? The rest of the video was clear and helpful, thank you.

Could you please,show a video on how to replace the starter switch on the 10 “mastercraft miter saw . Thanks

My laser is way offset to one side, trying to figure out how to get that to align to exactly where it makes the cut

look behind the fence on the bevel shaft. Along it there is a nut with and adjustable hex screw. Loosen bolt , tighten hex screw on either side of the saw accordingly to which way you want the blade to go.

That helps so much, thanks dude.

Excellent job :-)

But isn't it like every time it clicks in place it will be out of alignment? There's got to be another way.

This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Angle Gaug) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...

Not seeing what you are adjusting to get the blade to cut 90% straight.. mine is out over 1/8" on a 8" board..

i have an older mastercraft slider but similar to the hawkeye and the sliding action is not square. if i make a cut with the slider all the way in, it's perfectly square. but when i make a cut on for example a 8" board, it's not square on the far side (where the slider is all the way out). is there a way to adjust the sliding drift?

We need how to fix the angle stop holes, not the needle. Everybody knows it, but all point the saw stop is not correct. So we want to know how to adjust every stop point correctly. 0 30 45 degree

1:30 seconds into your video you are showing the miter adjustment happening but we cannot see or hear HOW you are changing the squareness of your blade to the rafter square. We can see the saw changing but not what you are doing to accomplish that.

could you explain how to wire a switch for a mastercraft laser mitre saw Model 055 6745 2 or provide a wiring diagram for it

You need someone to hold the camera while explaining