Scale Model Modelling Fillers & Putty Review Part 1 

Thanks so much for this video. I'm building a Revell 1/48 scale F-15E. I had some fit issues, but have solved most with light sanding prior to priming. I have only a few small gaps left on the fuselage and wings. The area that will need most work will be the nose cone area. After watching your video I have decided to go with the Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic. Should to the job quite well.

Well done mate. Thanks for introducing me to the Perfect Putty.

Great demonstration. I hope drying time is covered also in Part 2. I have used Squadron White for years and my only negative comment is the workability. (the gentlemen pointed this out in the demo)

Fantastic review! Thanks for making this video. I'll have to order some Mr Surfacer and some of that Deluxe model filler. They look to be great investments. I've been using all sorts of model fillers, but find most are very fumy, so I have to wear a mask, while using them. I've been making a 1:1 scale Terminator Endo arm kit and find miliput is a great product because it dries to a close approximation of the original kit's hardness, making it easier to sand evenly. I usually use a scalpel for applying filler. The sharp edge helps me get a smoother fill and less sanding afterwards. I also use two part resin putty, as found in hardware shops. It's expensive, but it dries rock hard. It's great for filling large gaps and it works to bond pieces together. PS. For cheap modelling tools, I use things from the supermarket makeup section. "Sanding sticks" are actually just nail files that have been re-named, spru cutters are actually nail cutters etc. The only difference is stuff from the makeup isle cost about 1/20th of the price of re-named hobby tools, here.

Great Video just interested in when you will be completing Part 2. I can't wait to see what's best in this I have used Squadron White but its grainy compared with the green but green has been around for years maybe the later more modern materials will be better .

@ Meu98 Thanks for the kind comment, and yes its air fix new tool 1/72 P-40

My mother works as a seamstress, and she uses something in the same type of tube as the Vallejo Plastic Putty for seams on fabric. She uses a straight pin (the longer ones with the little sphere on the end) and a little Vaseline on the ball in the tube's opening to keep it from drying up and clogging. Not sure if it would work for the putty but it would be worth a try!

Ive only used the humbrol and found it hard going out of the tube, but they do suggest thinning it with liquid poly which i didn"t have at the time , so mixed it with poly cement out of a tube and it makes it much more workable, but u have to be deft and apply quickly.

These are excellent video full of great info thanks for sharing!

Great videos. Keep more coming.

I recommand revell Plasto, its been updated allot and works like a charm

the perfect plastic putty is water base so you can use water to wash the end out and Allso you can use acrylic paints to color it. I never tryed but you might be able to thine out with water too.

Hi, I am using humbroll, never tried any different ones. I never use it straight out of a tube, instead I dilute it either with liquid polycement or enamel thinner and apply it with a brush.

@ Hallis1 Yes they are well worth getting, i find them invaluable.

Thanks, i will get round to part 2 soon

Paul you have to do part 2 of this. It's been a year already! If you can't find the test card repeat part one and don't lose it this time:-D

Fun little project. Do you guys not use 3m bondo spot putty over there? Very popular here in the states. The grain is also better for better filling. By the way, green putty has a larger grain then the white when it comes to squadron putties. Fills better out of the tube and thinned. I'd say equivalent to a mr surfacer 300 if they made such a thing.

seems I bought the right fillers then, where do you get your plasticard from? is there a part 2?

A question please. I am restoring an antique mirror that has split in area due to excess drying so there are gaps to be filled, the base is wood and it is then gilded. I was thinking of using Plasto filler to assemble the pieces and then when dry sand and gild. I Don't have many products to hand. Can I use Plasto to 'stick' the pieces together and if so how thick can I use it, the gaps are about 3 to 5 mm and how long until I can sand and gild it ? many thanks xx

Paul you should use the plasto it works well on 1/72 aircraft

Disappointed that there's still no part 2 to this, any chance you could make a second test card??

The small Mr. Hobby bottles like those are 40ml. It's been on my consideration list for a thin surfacer/putty

Can I ask a question please, can I use mr hobby white putty(not the R version) ,with Humbrol Enamel paints(simple brush application) ?? cause of the solvents of the paint(white spirit...) I'm kind of confused to be honest what putty exactly to use-so it won't dissolve the putty underneath...I would like the white stuff cause I feel it's better to be able to see the contrast of the color(on most plastic kit surfaces) - "Mr Hobby"- "Squadron white(fast drying formula)"-"Revell Plasto"-& "Vallejo(100% acrylic resin ?! )" are the ones that I can find.... Any help would be apreciated...thanks very much !!

Mr. Hobby in the tube is stringy and not viscous enough for my use. I will have to try Vallejo's and see if it is more controllable. Thanks for your time.

Really nice and helpful video.The P-40 that you included in the video as an example is the Airfix's new tool?

I need a thin filler that can block light. I’m new to modelling and I have light leaks in the seams. Any tips on what to use

Where do I go to see recent video builds by Paul? Judy in Canada

good tutorial mate!

Besides, using sanding sticks etc any other methods to remove excess putty ??

Hello I know it's an old video but hope you help me.. I'm new here for modelling cars I buy revell plasto putty but it's so much wet. Is there different type or that's normal?

perfect :)thanks

What's amazing is that Squadron has a couple videos on each the Green and White putties and NEITHER video explains what the difference is! Their product descriptions are IDENTICAL! Makes me want to find an alternative to Squadron just to spite them.

did part 2 ever get put up?

PART TWO?????????

Question I'm new to model building but I have made some sculptures in the past using Plaster of Paris and Elmer's glue mixtures thinned with water. Do you think this mixture will bond to the models if so different consistency can be made based on dilution ratios, I was just wondering if it might be possible, Thx...

with the squadron you can use alcohol instead of acetone or toulene. Also as far as squadron is concerned from their website the only difference between green and white is "The white color formula makes it easy to paint over without primer."

Which one was the easiest to sand?

Sorry to ask once again but did your ever get part two completed I would love to understand the full results of the test.

Okay so it's been 10 months since this one was uploaded, and 5 months since someone said they would check on Part 2.....is there going to be a part 2? Has Paul found the test chart or did he have to create a new one? What's going on?

Paul so as I believed that Vallejo and Perfect putty were very much material in a one pack form and very much the same, do you think that both give the very same results or did PP have the edge?

The Tamiya Basic Type (Silver Gray) acts exactly like the Humbrol. It has a tendency to lift up while working with it and crumbles when you sand it. However, Tamiya's White Putty is just like Vallejo Putty , Squadron Green Putty or Perfect Plastic Putty. The Tamiya White Putty dries really fast and can be thinned with Cellulose / Lacquer Thinner. I don't like Squadron White, Humbrol, or Tamiya Basic Type Putties. A good putty is smooth like butter and cleans up easily.

I'm tired of perfect putty drying on the tub mouth. I've switched to mr. liquid putty and milliput and never looked back,

Thnx now i can paint my lego custom figures :)

So where is part 2?

Will Paul ever complete Part two only he has a lot of fans waiting for the final results. I still cant find out from the Squadron company what the difference green I don't like the white but awaiting confirmation.

Your camera really should have been on your left side for this one given you were right handed. btw, silicone modelling tools would probably work well as a great applicator for these. Thanks for the comparisons. I bought the Humbrol one prior to watching this comparison. lol, I have only used it once and not tried others but I actually really liked the Humbrol, I put it on far thinner than you have though and perhaps they have improved it because I had to wave it under my nose to smell it and yes it does smell like the glue but otherwise I didn't notice it while using it.

How much thinner did you add to the Squadron Green?

What is the name of that putty tool that you are using and where did you get it?

Thank you

I know this is 6 years old but did you ever make part 2 to this? Are you still using these putty's? Can you make part 2 to this?

I can't find part 2...

Come on Paul it's been 7 years, the Vallejo putty should almost be dry by now so you can do part 2 soon. ;-)

A great pity there was never a follow up to this interesting comparison of fillers,since the video Squadron have changed the formulae we all loved and now it has been ruined with a horrible stuff that will not even sand properly it just peels off the plastic with no adhesion,I think an update video with the new products now available would not come amiss,this is not a criticism just a suggestion in the spirit of getting the best from something we always use on our models,there will always be gaps somewhere to get rid of. Also watch the camera angle your right hand covers the test piece board.

So a 'part 2' was never made? I wanted to see how they sand and take paint.

So where’s part 2?

In your next vid, you should place camera on your left side so your hand will not hide the action.

The three glass bottles are all the same with different dyes in them and different amounts of cellulose thinners added at the factory, that is why they go off so quick, thicker the filler the quicker it goes off. As for the Humbrol, also Cell' based. Squeeze the humbrol onto a saucer or something and thin with cellulose and fill your gap, chuff me it's not rocket science. The less thinner that is used the quicker it evaporates mate. Try cutting a medical syringe down to about 30mm, fill with thinned humbrol and using something like a blood testing withdrawal needle to fill the gaps.

If you start with a bias, it's not really a fair review

Seriousley, 35 minutes of just watching him apply fillers? Couldn't you have shortened it down to like 20 minutes or something?

I would think if you're going to show a help video like this and you're right handed, you put the camera on the left side so we CAN SEE!

dont understant a bloody word youre saying!!