Seafoam--can't believe what it did to my engine episode 5--cylinder cleaning test using water!! 

No, I’m not kissing a** here. I don’t really see why there’s a need for negativity. Project farm has not been bought by any sponsors and uses his own equipment at his own cost assuming all of the risk for our entertainment. He also goes through experiments that most of us would think of doing or buying products we have doubts about. In my honest opinion, project farm gets played on RU-vid from my tv on Sundays and I can honestly say he’s the best subscribed channel I have. Please keep up the great content!

After rewatching this and seeing your new videos, you have come such a long way in both your presentation and video editing over the years, kudos to you. Thanks for your continuing work in testing and giving great information with no marketing BS.

I have run water/isopropanol alcohol injection in a 4 stroke 1000cc turbocharged engine. Water-ipa injects into each intake track at 150 psi, the water alcohol mix is completely waporized when entering the combustion chamber. I've run this on many of my turbo charged Yamaha snowmobiles over the years. On teardown of the engines I've found them all completely free of carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber, on the valves, and on the top of the pistons. There is no harm seen from the injection of water. Reason for running water-ipa injection is the ability to run higher boost on pump gas insted of running race fuel. Poor man's race fuel is a nickname used for this injection. I've run 22 psi of boost making about 350 HP in the 1000 cc engines on pump gas. Side effect was a very clean engine in the intake and combustion chamber. Thank you for your videos, very informative, highly appreciated. Greetings from Norway 🙂

I believe sea foam does adequate job w/o having to replace the oil in the engine. Oil and extra time equates to more than $7.00

Anybody else amazed that a $100 mower keeps working after all this?

Neighbors: it's pouring rain and Project Farm's been mowing his lawn for 2 hours.

We learned the water to clean carbon trick when I went to motorcycle school back in the 80's We were taught to use a mister(spray bottle) to atomize the water. I've seen results of that on motorcycles and it worked well. dribbling the water in I would worry about not having it atomize correctly. I would love to see this same test with a water spray vs. dribble. Love your tests!

We had a Chevy 350 engine in a DOH crew cab truck which spends a lot of time at idle or slow speeds when working on the roads. It had a serious sounding knock and I thought it was toast. My buddy I worked with, great mechanic by the way, said he thought it was a carbon knock, so he did the water treatment for no more than 5 or 10 minutes at the most and the knock was gone. After working with him for almost 30 years, he never ceased to amaze me with his seat of the pants knowledge.

I really appreciate all the time and cost you have put into this to teach all of us amateur motorheads about these techniques and products. Thanks! Subscribed!

We watched this guy in school and now I watch him all the time keep up the great work

I’ve spent so much time and money keeping water out of my engines, there is just no way I’m putting it in on purpose. Great vids keep up the good work!

I just watched two episodes of attempting to remove carbon from a cylinder head. Water, then Sea Foam vs Marvels Mystery Oil. Back in the early 80's when I started tinkering with engines I used the water followed by transmission oil to recondition piston rings. Over the years I have used Berryman, and STP, products. However, watching your videos I believe that the MMO product does the best and can treat more common problems from fuel cell issues, head & upper cylinder, to rotating Assemblies. Thank you for your time and studies. Glenn

Old Briggs lawn mower engine- “wow, after 12 years I’m retiring- going to a great retirement home called Project Farm!” Project Farm- “heh heh heh..... just have a seat, this won’t hurt a bit...” Keep up the great work sir!

I think this guy needs his own TV show great work!!! I wish I had the time and resources to do the stuff that you're able to do

*The way how the chap is a bit shy* in those older videos is adorable. But I love newer videos where he is more upbeat and smiley, too.

Just watched this 5 years later. Wow. Your channel is still great after all these years. I’m wondering if the methodology gave the mixed result. I’d be tempted to add a mist of water in the air intake in a stop/start way to keep the engine temperature higher. You may achieve a better ‘steam clean’ that way. This appeared in my feed after searching Liqui-Moly Diesel engine cleaner. Still love your work 👍

9:08 I appreciate the use of a 10 ton bottle Jack to raise up the front of the lawn mower.

I love this guys energy, short, concise, and to the point.

Many years ago an old timer mechanic showed me how he "steam cleans" the combustion chambers in car engines and I have done it many times myself, though not in many years now! Start the engine with the air cleaner off. Bring it up to tamp and raise the idle while pour water slowly out of a jar/cup and while it tries to die, raise the RPM higher to keep it running. I have seen a difference on spark plugs before and after doing this, so I have to imagine it helps clean everything else in the chamber!!

HAven't watched anything here yet, but I will say, before starting (just to keep it interesting) : we dinosaur hot-rodders used to cobble together quite a few different variations on water-injection systems back in the 70s-80s to 'extend' the combustion cycle-time just a tad, while not messing with the actual ignition timing. Some people swore by them, others swore that they were just another fad that was useless unless one had an entire garage full of hi-tech diagnostic stuff to measure the variables with. Personally, I think the results varied greatly because of the amount of difference in everyone's engines at the time. The diff's between Chevys-Pontiacs-Fords-Mopars etc, displacements, manifolds, carbs, (this was before FI), exhaust flow-rates/pressures, etc and the variations in cam and timing specs etc. made almost any comparison, other than that of one engine to another of the exact same make/year/displacement etc., almost useless. Most of us tried it, decided whether it worked for us or not and either kept it or disconnected it. I built one on a '66 289 2bbl 4-spd Comet, drilled/tapped into the manifold on both sides of the base beneath the carb, stuck a .070 jet into the end of a piece of copper tubing on each side, that seemed to help mileage when I was cruising; but when I was out 'racing' and strutting on the weekends, I just shut it off, since it seemed to cut down on throttle response. But that's just me, and THAT engine, with THOSE specs, etc. Damn, I miss that car... as we used to say, that car would really 'shit n' git'... Kids today have NO idea what they're missing (same as with the music)... Years ago, I remember taking my friend's nephew on a ride in my all time favorite car, a '70 Challenger 440+6. My friend was working on his car and needed a few parts (nuts n' bolts stuff) and instead of him taking his car down off the jackstands etc I said I'd go to the store for him. I got in, and his nephew asked to come with me. As I was buckling up, I told him to do the same and he actually laughed at me. I laughed back, then punched the gas and took him two blocks in about 1.8 seconds, then hit the brakes. He closed his mouth, nervously buckled his seat belt and kept his mouth shut the whole time till we got back. LIFE LESSON LEARNED: and the lesson is: "Kid, back when Detroit had balls they used to sell some bad-ass machinery. If you get in a '70s muscle car, and the driver tells you to buckle up....there's a REASON!" American Muscle!! Never equalled!!

Sea foam: spend $7 pour, run, change oil, enjoy. Water: Free design drip system, construct drip system, run and monitor for hours, change oil several times (not free), enjoy. You decide who's the winner.

Should've used Flint, MI water. That would REALLY clean it.

2 Hours! Wow when I was a kid in high school auto shop in the 70s our instructor taught us to us a single glass of water down the carb slowly (over like 2 minutes) while the engine was revving at about 3000 rpm. Another important point, I am not a small engine mechanic but when tightening head bolts or any bolt pattern DONT go in a circle, tighten the bolt across from the last one

Well I'm just gonna say befor I see the results the seafoam is definitely easier to use lol

Last question... Yes I would and do use water. Always have. As in the other suggestion I actually switched to steam with wand applicator. The steam is what cleans and its already in steam form and much easier to deliver especially in a fuel injected engine. I do suggest using the steam wand ... I believe you will be impressed with the outcome... Maybe use a vacuum pump on a small engine to help with the crankcase. Although you should see less with steam.

Pulled many cylinder heads from many vehicles that had blown head gaskets. The affected cylinders were nearly spotless from the steam cleaning every time.

I haven't even owned a lawn mower in 20 years but still loved your videos, as always, keep them coming!

I highly recommend redoing the test with atomizing the air to some degree Great test overall!

Thanks for doing these tests for us all. Great public service :)

You don't need that much water. About a cup or so should suffice, administered with a spray bottle into the air intake. Should be a job measured in minutes, not hours.

My vote: Sea foam. Letting water get into a sump is sacrilegious :)

When I was a kid, we called the water thing a Kentucky valve job.

Man, you put a lot of work into this, thank you!

My grandpa did this with water back in the 80s' to clean out the carbon on my mom's 440 in her 69' RoadRunner

Wild looking back at this channel from back when I first became aware of it. Production flow has clearly improved, as has recording of audio. Keep doing great work!

I think this was very interesting to watch and you’re very creative in creating makeshift devices as part of your testing. I think the gallon of water was excessive. A sprayer bottle might provide a better result as the mist droplets should convert to steam faster than droplets of water. Overall I think the result was very encouraging and would definitely try this on my car.

Just a suggestion for ease of comparison. I know that the seafoam results are in another video, but a quick recap (just the pics) of the seafom would be helpful. Also would it be possible to use a split screen to show, say, the seafoam vs. water. This is more of a suggestion for the post editing process before upload and publish.

The way It works is with the engine at operating temp rev it to about 2500 Rpms add a burst of water. The water cools the carbon deposits on contact breaking them free from the engine surfaces. You don't run the engine on water constantly. It needs to be added In short bursts To allow the surfaces you cooled to heat up agan.

Great topic! As a wrench and smog tech for 18 yrs before switching careers. A poor mans trick on NOX failures on smog was the water in the intake trick. Definitely works as I always saw a substantial drop in NOX confirming carbon cleaning and hot spots in there gone. I will say, I believe thered be better results with applying water and varying throttle. My program was to rev up, pour in and continue applying throttle as rpms dropped. Usually just 4 or 5 quick blasts was all it took. Seafoam? I always chose to use GM top end cleaner for the real job of top end cleaning without pulling heads. That stuff is amazing. I prefer to use Techron gas additive over the years on every oil change to keep it clean in the 1st place.

Things that can survive a nuclear bomb: cockroaches, ants, lawnmower...... 😆

you are supposed to use a spray bottle so the water is misted, that way it has a chance to be heated to steam. not just dump water in like that

To be honest with you, from what I have observed, I believe that the carbon deposit that was on the top of the head was transferred to the head of the piston and the one valve. If I had an engine that needed to be cleaned. I would choose to use an engine cleaner to do the job and forget about using water.

ProjectFarm, thanks for the great videos! I’m sure you’ve heard it quite a few times already but I would recommend using a spray bottle and misting the water in or injector nozzle with a container connected to regulated air to pressurize the water to be able to mist it. Also what temperature was the water? I use hot water to clean carbon due to the fact it will not cool the combustion chamber as much. The reason a blown or leaking head gasket cleans so well is that it is heated coolant and steams it. I guarantee with a spray bottle with hot tap water will provide drastically improved results. Thanks again for the great videos!

auto repair 7 years experience MANY types of repairs. Always AMAZED @ blown head gasket repairs - the piston & valve heads were: like new looking so i concluded water or water w/antifreeze ? DEFFINATELY & ALWAYS caused the total removal of carbon(j whatever else it is) of the cylinder's pistin crown & valve heads

my guess is the engine was too cold from the water, this process uses the steam from water to clean the cylinder head.

Used diesel trucks in my work, had a fuel strike for a month. So I added 1/3 diesel to my 1800cc petrol engine, having a adjustable SU carburetor, ran it. 1800 rpm idle. Rebuilt engine later, the head was bright, clean, no build ups. Diesel cleaned it.

I like the non shoutiness in your voice of these older videos.

Farm, you do so much effort for each video, it's amazing. Thanks again.

Excellent test! Antagonists could argue that lubrication failure could affect results-negatively. But results showed improvement! I used water injection for octane improvement in the old days.

awesome video! I didn't think a lawn mower engine could be cleaned with straight water. Steamers is what they use in Europe. like a little carpet cleaner with a nozle

Very impressive! I want to thank you a lot Project Farm. You are absolutely amazing! Also, maybe trying this with engine coolant will serve a different effect? That is known to clean sparkplugs, and maybe carbon too? I've seen engines run on their own coolant and it doesn't impact the oil that much. P.S. Subscribed. :) I would say it's a competition but in Florida, it's so humid that engines basically run on water and fuel!

I have used water but the engine needs to be higher rev’d to keep the temp high or the water does not turn to steam. Usually only takes less than a cup of water. The large qty of water accounts for the water in the oil along with a somewhat low compression the water was blowing by the rings. Would love to see this again with higher rev’d engine with only about a cup of water.

Great video. I also did what you did on a 2015 Kia Rio and let the intake slowly suck water in, unfortunately i bent the connecting rod. I later discovered that this was due to the intake manifold design of the vehicle, some of the water was getting into the engine and the rest started pooling on the bottom of the intake. I did a snap throttle and all that pooled up water go into the engine all at once hydrolocking it. I have done this water trick for the past 25 years and never had a issue but like you said you always run the risk of damaging the engine.

Great video :) I have used water to clean my engine head/valves, but the way I did it was to warm up the engine, pull off the air filter, rev the engine to 3-4K rpm and then spray carbonated water from a bottle into the intake directly for a few seconds. The engine doesn't sound happy when you do that, but afterwords it runs fine again. Still, that is a quick-fix only, until you have the time to take the engine apart and clean/inspect thoroughly.

Now you dont pull the cord to start the engine, you have come a long way sir!!! great content as always

Mower engines are tougher than you think. Simple engineering. Great base for these kinds of experiments. My last lawn tractor that I purchased used) ran fine for over 25 years because I took care of it and used Seafoam in it.

In the leaded fuel days, we used to see carbon buildup to the point of causing knocking. Similar sound of rod knock. We would slowly pour a glass of water down carb., and shut off engine to let steam loosen, then restart, and repeat until knock went away. I have not seen this since lead has been removed from gasoline. The amount of carbon shown is harmless.

It might work, but personally I'll never put water in any of my engines

Darn I didn't see how well the Sea Foam cleaned the Carbon out.

I remember my Dad doing this a lot at the shop and how much fun it was to ride in back of pickup at night and all the sparks flying out of tail pipe 😊

I watched this when it was posted. I just happened across it, I had to skim through it again. The video kist cracks me up. Sometimes the learning process is brutal. For all of us. All aside. Water does do a great job of cleaning carbon from a combustion chamber.

It's as old as the hills to use automatic trans fluid to keep carbon at bay, as an old gasoline engine trucker we always put AT fluid in the gas tank, it lubed everything . This test you did works because of the cool liquid is what breaks the carbon off the hot parts. However not to many took the engine apart.

Thank you for your video. Yes, we can try and learn from what we do. I see that water is pushed into the engine block when the pressure in the combustion chamber is greater than the pressure in the engine block. Mixture of oil and water does not lubricate friction surfaces well as oil does, which causes the engine parts in it to wear very fast. Water rusts iron quickly in high temperature. The piston, piston rings, and cylinder got worn fastest because they encounter the highest point of heat. The exhaust valve sealing surface(s) might get attached with carbon fragments came off from the chamber in the process, which causes pressure leak. Water should not be used for this purpose.

Helping the public do the stuff we wish to see thenks project farm

I could watch these videos all day

Great going guy, now everyone knows Gliddens secret paint formula!!!

My friend , Harry, an I studied adding propane conversion added to gas carb on 350 Chevy. We played with water injection too. We ran a small copper water line across intake, but we didn't drill hole small enough, until I got really small drill bit from jewelry store. Hole so small water wouldn't flow without vacuum pressure drawing into running system! It helped lower temperatures too!

Love your videos. I bought a ztr at auction in a downpour and later found dipstick not seated well. I drained the now milky oil and flushed motor and crank case with diesel and let drain a long time... then filled with mobil-1. Engine is fine still after 2.5 years...

I think Seafoam won this one, for the amount of time and substance used. You can't rule out the cost of the extra fuel that was needed with the water treatment.

Thanks for all the many hours of work you do for these test , it is informative and why the majority of us subscribe ! 👍👍

There are actually a few experimental six-stroke engine designs where the 5/6 strokes are a steam power stroke, achieved by injecting water into the scorching hot cylinder and extracting power from the water flash-boiling. Both the Dyer and Crower engines used this technique, and are substantially similar. The benefits are the cleaning of the cylinder as seen in your video, removing the need for air or water cooling systems, and generating extra power (and thus boosting fuel economy) from what otherwise just becomes waste heat.

the more i watch the more i like-very thorough very easy to watch no tricks--the lubrication from seafoam and marvel in the oil and gas of mowers equipment and vehicles used on a regular basis wont rust freeze or built up smeg we used to call it--but your method is why the mower doesn't blow up great effort thanks again

A sick lawnmower with an Ivy!

for two hours? more like water boarding.

Awesome video. just found this channel and really enjoy this guys brain! I love that a 7 dollar can of seamfoam < 2 tanks of fuel, oil changes and the whole IV setup/vacuum setup

You might wanna give 2+2 a try. I’ve used it direct in the tank (about 1/2 can to up to 2 gallons of gas, and direct spray it into the intake and it works well cleaning up carbon. I’d be interested to see how it shakes out compared to seafoam.

this was a great video. I really appreciated the work you put into this. I truly believe the water must be very well atomized, but still be introduced into the engine at a rate fast enough to clean the engine, but not so much water so fast that you can hear the engine run differently as you could hear in this video. I would suggest using a few ultrasonic mist makers to very effectively atomize the water. I would think you still need plenty of water entering the engine at a sufficient rate for steam cleaning to take effect, so, If it were me, I would start out at like 3 or 4 ultrasonic mist makers and rout the mist to the carburetor inlet. Also I would still run a full gallon through. Is there any way you could try this for another video?

They used to sell "water injection kits" in the 70's & 80's. The cars back then had a lot of problems with pinging (premature ignition). It cooled the combustion temps. It would fog water on hard acceleration/ more wide open throttle. You could also add alcohol to the water. Was very effective.

Many years ago, a co-worker blew a head gasket in her old Datsun (B110, I believe). She managed to get it to my house (adding copious amounts of water along the way). I pulled off the head, and in cylinder #3 (where the gasket was blown) the piston top looked as clean as a brand new part. Same with the plug. That combustion chamber looked like it had been hot-tanked. All the other cylinders had the normal amount of carbon buildup.

As a young backyard mechanic I used atf to clean/treat my "hotrods" and always had good results..

Project Farm, for the question you asked at the end, "Would you use water to clean deposits in the engine", I have, but never had very good results with it compared to a volatile liquid like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil. It's true, water can have really good results, but the thin line between positive results and failure is too narrow for me. From what I've witnessed, it's not really water that's doing a cleaning, it's steam, and to get the right balance between pouring water/creating steam, you run the risk of hydrolock and water mixing with the oil. Now, hydrolock is a risk no matter if you're using a solvent or water, but where something like MMO, Seafoam, B12, or Gumout can safely creep into the crankcase and intermingle with the oil, water can't. And a solvent treatment, unlike water, is not really dependent on temperature. You don't have to worry about whether you're misting or pouring, or whether the temperature inside is enough to create steam. In fact, I've had the best results from pouring MMO or Seafoam straight into the spark plug wells, sitting overnight, bumping the ignition to spray out the excess, putting the spark plugs back in and running it rough for a bit before changing the oil. You really can't do that with water. (You could, but your motor wouldn't be very friendly to you afterward.)

2019. and still love to watch his videos

Holley used to make a water injection kit for cars. When I was a kid I put one on my Ford 390. It helped with pre-detonation by keeping the temps lower in the combustion chamber. Controlled by manifold vacuum, when you romped on it lower vacuum caused a spray of water. It seemed to work as I remember. I still have that car, 64 Galaxie 500XL.

I’ve watched a ton of your videos buddy you’ve so much better at making videos over the years lol 👍🏾

I think since the head was off, just clean it by hand.

I think we are supposed to introduce water in form of fine mist.

I grew up watching my family use kerosene for many years. I' ve seen alot of proof that it works. Have you considered this as an option?

Back in the mid 1970's, I experimented with a water injector on a Ford 351 Cleveland with 11.1:1 compression. I used a throttle operated switch, which turned on a windshield washer pump, which sprayed water out of nozzles into the carb. I saw no performance increase, but it prevented knocking and overheating during the gas crisis and crap fuel days. Later, I took the heads off for a valve job and the chambers and pistons were unusually clean. I was told a lot of people who ran water injection with turbochargers had clean chambers and pistons, so I think water works. That said, I think a spray mist works better than a drip.

I've been a master ASE certified Tech since ASE's inception, as well as a certified Honda instructor as well a member of several major factory sponsered racing teams. With over 45 years of wrench twisting under my belt, I would never have tried any kind of injection, water, MMO, or seafoam on an engine that had such low compression. A simple wet dry compression test would have shown that the rings or piston and cylinder were worn and that the engine had excessive blowby. Even with any kind of additive if it cleaned off the carbon, the risk of having small pieces of carbon getting blown past the pistons would have caused scoring and possibly even more damage. Also, using a small engine is not an accurate test. When water is added to an automotive engine, the intake manifolds are heated either by coolant or exhaust circulation so the water is evaporated into steam prior to entering the combustion chamber. Later model automobiles, especially those utilizing direct injection systems have a major carbon buildup problem. Even to the point of requiring removal of the cylinder head(s) to clean off the carbon. I have successfully used Seafoam in the fuel system to clean the injectors but don't expect it to clean off tens of throusands of miles of carbon buildup acquired by using the lowest priced fuels you can find. Techroline was desigened to be used in every gallon of fuel for long periods of time, and it does work, but it is not found in lower grades of fuel, so it will cost a few cents more per gallon. Adding it to your fuel as an additive would require that it be done with every fillup. There isn't a single item on the market that will de-carbon an engine with a one time treatment. Carbon buildup is the result of an incorrect stoichiometric Air/Fuel mixture, which is virtually unattainable in any variable Load/Speed engine, although engines are designed to come as close as possible to the ideal ratio of 14.7:1. Under hard acceleration or heavy loads, the ratio drops from 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel and there is less air and more fuel entering the engine and without enough air to completely burn the fuel the excess fuel turns into carbon buildup. It's a battle vehicle owners and drivers have been fighting since the invention of the internal combustion engine. How to achieve greater power with less fuel consumption and fewer emissions. If anyone can figure it out, I'll guarantee threre are dozens of manufacturers looking just for you. Great video by the way. I hope it saves someone from thinking that a blast of water into his old worn out engine is going to bring it back to life. I'll bet even after you got everything all cleaned up, it didn't run one bit better than it did before.

Retired GM Technician and consultant. When I supercharged engines I added water injection.Water in a engine done right can be a good thing Small amounts (mist) It cleans very well. To this day I'll boil a cup of water and VERY SLOWLY pour it down a carburetor or throttle body a little bit at a time .This is done with the engine running . The biggest probeblem with to much water in a engine is it's heavier then oil or gas so it is on the bottom of the oil pan where the oil pick up tube is. If you boiled the water first on your test you would have had better results

First of I have to say I love the way you try and be as fair as possible. I really like your stuff! I was first told about the water treatment 55 plus years ago and have used it many times over the years. I get the engine up to operating temperature and have about a quart of water ready. With the engine running at a fast idle I run the water through as fast as I can without stalling the engine. Once the water is gone I shut the engine off. After the engine has cooled right down I start it up and rev the engine up and down about ten times or more until the carbon quits coming out. It works great On cars trucks and tractors but I must admit I have never done a lawn mower lol. The idea behind it is that the water gets into the carbon and breaks the carbon up. The cooling breaks it free. Starting it up after just blows it all out. Anyway you did it one way but the principle did not add up to me so sadly it didn't work out. Maybe try it out the way I do it. Thanks for all the stuff you do!

I setup a water injection system on a 428 CJ mustang back in the 70's. I used an oil furnace fuel nozzle. Don't remember the size. The engine idle would come up when the water was turned on. It never damaged the engine.

I have been using a DIY water injection on my Diesel Vehicle engines for over 12 years. Short story is it works fantastically. Most people however do not understand it and hold pre conceived ideas about what it does even though they have zero hands on experience and usually hold on to some flawed ideal. BMW Have Fitted Water injection to one of their latest performance cars so it's safe to say it works for them along with aircraft, ships, trains and other huge industrial engines WI has and is Still Fitted to. Fitting WI to a lawnmower engine or testing on one is not a valid or appropriate test and results therefore are not indicative of use in more suitable applications. The water in the oil here was I believe firstly because too much water was added, 2nd, because the engine wasn't under load and 3rd because the engine seems at least half clapped out anyway. The WI on my engines comes on under turbo boost and adds a small amount of power to the engine through reduced intake air temps. It can cool the engine noticeably on a long climb with a trailer attached and I can pump more water in it than it burns fuel and it still does not end up in the oil. I have NEVER seen water in my oil in all the years I have been doing this and if it does get in there is simply means you used too much too quick.... or your engine is stuffed to begin with. On this engine, the carbon deposits tell you from the start it's burning engine oil so is not in good health. Taking 2 hours to dribble the water in is not the right way to do this. It should be done when the engine is under load which is difficult on a mower but easy on a vehicle. Perhaps a tank with a valve could have ben put on the handlebar and the water fed in through something like a Hypodermic Needle onto the air filter ( no, does not affect the filter at all, try it) so the water was fed gradually and constantly as the engine was working under some load. This would allow the water to Phase change from liquid to gas much better and permeate the cylinder and rings much better. Doing it this way the engine was running too cold which also probably didn't help with the water getting into the oil. The water also works best as a constant rather than batch application. Yes it will work for a short term dose but having it run frequently and gradually results in much better cleaning and helps performance. On non turbos I have had I just put a switch under the throttle or a contact plate and made the throttle lever the switch itself. As for the extra compression through the removal of carbon, that could only occur if the carbon was removed from the rings causing a better seal. Removing carbon from the head or the top of the piston would mean more space at the top of the Cylinder and therefore LESS compression. Like anything, many commenters have a pre disposed position and will bias towards such. Comments about the fuel used for the water treatment which was done wrong and the cost of the oil ( also from a flawed test) show this. People pointing out the cost of water are really stretching and making foolish comments. If you are that poor or Tight arsed you can always save your Urine and pour that in. Chemicals in that will actually help the process and then the Paupers won't have to worry about the .2C the water costs. If you think something doesn't work or something is better, do it. No one really cares what you do, they will do what works best for them as well. :0)

I am impressed with your videos. Besides the smart as comments from people you do your tests systematically and with honest results.

Another way to ensure a controlled infusion is to use a pump up type pressure sprayer with a length of line, running to a hyperdermic needle (shoved into the intake nearer the intake valve/s). This way atomises the water instead of trickling it in. Use this method and a couple of litres of water to clean my tdi top end. Pulls the fuel injectors back into balance too; all while driving along as well... ;)

Project Farm, Me And My Grandpa FREAKING LOVE your Videos!

One of the reasons I believe these seafoam/water/Marvel Mystery Oil/Lucas tests show little results - is the engine is never put under a load. The engine may be running at full speed - but there is no load and the engine is not working.....therefore the engine really isn't moving much fuel through the engine, it isn't making much heat.....it is just loafing along. If you really want to see how well it works - put in the Seafoam and then mow your yard!

Have you ever tested blowing steam from a steam cleaning machine wand? Spray works well with water also the mist nozzles.

Oooh boy, those jars full of mayonnaise you pulled outta that poor thing sent shivers up my spine. I wonder had a car head gasket blow right after I spent months fixing it up after a wreck learning from RU-vid as I went, seeing that took me back.

Nice work. Good info, keep up the good work buddy